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[Rev]

My car having 30,000 miles, I decided it was time to replace the old brake fluid.

All I can say it was fairly easy. Having bled my motorcycle brakes all the time, I couldn' think this could be harder.

Anyways, if you wanna do it yourself and not need anyone's help, I recommend you buying yourself a MightyVac brake bleeder pump... $40ish at PepBoys. It comes with a series of fittings, different size hoses and everything

The way this pump thingy works, is, you connect one end of the hose to the bleeder nipple, the other end to a little airtight brake fluid container, and the other end to the pump. The pump creates a vacuum, which sucks the brake fluid out of the caliper and brake lines and into the container, which relieves you from a buddy having to pump the brake pedal for you.



You'll also need 1.5 quarts of DOT 4 brake fluid. I found some Valvoline SynPower DOT4 synthetic fluid (dry boiling point = 480F). I plan doing this once a year so this should suffice

Or pick your brake fluid of choice:

ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:
 
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTH. SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ)
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ)
 
ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:
 
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF

Get some brake cleaner (brake fluid is nasty ish and eats paint) and rags.

The bleeder nipple screw in the Brembo calipers is 11mm. So get yourself an 11mm box wrench.

[Rev]

Next the bleeding order. This is important.

Right Front -> Left Rear -> Left Front -> Right Rear.

Our Brembo calipers have two bleeding nipples as you can see, an inside and and outside. Do the inside first.

Jack up the car and remove your wheel.

This pic shows the bleeding nipples:

[Rev]

Look for the proper fitting on the MightyVac kit. Attach the fitting to the caliper nipple to make sure you have a tight fit.

Carefully remove the rubber cap covering the nipple.

Make sure your box wrench fits correctly and it doesn't marr the caliper.


Blast some brake cleaner over the brake parts as to remove brake dust.

The bleeder valve opens counter-clockwise (righty tighty-left loosey). Once you picked the correct fitting, wrench comes in first, then you fit the hose + fitting over the nipple.

DO NOT OPEN THE BLEEDER VALVE YET (be patient!)

[Rev]

Once you have a nice fit, create some vacuum with the pump. The pump has a vacuum gauge in it, so build it up to 20 in Hg more or less. Check the gauge to see you don't have a leak, if you are seeing the vacuum drop, then check your fittings and the air-tightness of the container.

Untighten the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir (yellow cap right next to the intercooler.



Once you have built vacuum, turn the bleeder nut counter clockwise, about 1/4 of a turn. Do this slowly! You want brake fluid being sucked out at a very slow rate, if you open up the valve too much, you will let air in!

The way to do it is, you build vacuum with the bleeder valve CLOSED. You open the valve, fluid will get sucked out. Once pressure starts dropping (check the gauge in the pump), close the valve, build vacuum again, open the valve.

At the same time, keep an eye on the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir, you want to keep fluid topped on all the time.

DO NOT LET the reservoir run dry, because you'll suck air into the master cylinder.

[Rev]

Check the brake fluid color to determine if you have gotten the old fluid out of the caliper and the brake line. Two flushes per side is enough.

Once you're finished with the inside nipple, do the outside.

The rear calipers also have two bleeder nipples, one in the inside, and outside



Exercise the same procedure for the rears as for the fronts. You might need a little bit more vacuum built when doing the rears, because the brake lines/piping are longer.

[Rev]

Again, make sure you don't open up the bleeder valve too much, because that will cause air to be sucked in.

You'll notice that you will need to open the bleeder valve a little bit more when doing the rears as well.

If your brake pedal feels mushy after doing this, you can air-bleed with the outer bleeding nipple, but follow the bleeding order (RF, LR, LF, RR).



Hope this helps.

[MadMan77]

Man, I was sitting here waiting for you to finish this awesome DIY write-up so I can tell you so.

[Rev]

Some tips:

As a tip, you don't want brake fluid to come out like its "bubbling". If so, you have opened the bleeder valve too much and air has been sucked inside the caliper. You want to open it just enough so that it comes out SLOWLY but steadily.

Do not pump the MightyVac when the bleeder nut is open, this might cause air to be pumped back in. Always close the bleeder nut completely, build vacuum, and reopen again.

[Rev]

Originally Posted by MadMan77

Man, I was sitting here waiting for you to finish this awesome DIY write-up so I can tell you so.

I bled my brakes saturday and I felt they were a little bit mushy, so I posted some additional tips so that air doesn't get sucked in.\

I bled the air out today using the outer nipple, brakes are nice and hard again

Doing it with a pump is quite differently than doing it by pumping the brake pedal, so to speak.

[Nachos Libres]

Thanks for the write-up Rev, I added it to the sticky. About to go clean up the sticky now.