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Old 11-03-2005, 11:55 AM   #1
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Exclamation DIY 720cc JECS Injector Install

OK help me and we help everyone to hopefully have a sticky DIY injector install thread
I've had the injectors for sometime now; and was going to have it installed professionally (and I may still) but the shop has been just too busy. So I thought I give it a shot here and see if we can come up with some concrete information for everyone. As far as well whey you just don't ask the shop how its done; trust me when I say busy they are really busy right now Good for them bad for me + its SEMA right now.

I have gathered some information as far as how to remove and install stock side feed injectors on a STi. I put it here and it can get cleaned-up more eventually:

Remove/Install Stock Injectors:

1-a. Remove the passenger trunk liner and unplug the fuel pump controler that is bolted to the inner quarter panel. Unplug the fuel pump relay..then run the car till it's out of gas.


1-b. Let the car sit overnight or relieve the fuel pressure by unplugging the fuel pump (green plug in upper right area of passenger footwell?).

2. Start on the driver's side (it's easier). You'll see a torx screw holding down the little bracket that holds down the injector. Unplug the injector, remove the torx screw, swing the bracket up and out of the way, and wiggle/rotate/pull the injector out. Reverse the steps to replace the injector.

Notes: On the driver side there is a plastic black bracket holding the wiring harness. The harness is zip tied to the bracket. Cut the zip tie and remove the plastic bracket. You can rezip it when you reinstall but the harness fits snug anyway so I didn't bother.


3. On the passenger side, the coolant tank will be in the way. Unbolt it and try to manuever it out of the way. It's annoying, but not impossible.

Notes: There is the coolant tank and under that there are 2 gold brackets holding a harness and/or hose in place. Remove the two brackets so you can move around the hoses/harness to easily access the injectors. Since I was doing a turbo install and already had some leaked coolant, I removed the tank. I think this makes things easier in the long run. Do it right the first time and avoid frustration trying to take too many shortcuts.

Notes: Make sure not to stripp the two torx bolts. They aren't torqued down really tight but if you don't have a good seat of the socket in the bolt they are easy to strip. Replacements weren't in stock at my local dealer and they're $2.50 a pop so take your time and make sure you have the correct hex socket. A wobble extension makes things easier. Also, it is very easy to drop a torx bolt down into oblivion and not have it fall out of the bottom of the engine bay (I even had removed the under tray and still couldn't find one). Take your time and get a good grip on the bolt. A magnet on a stick or parts grabber helps here. I went ahead and ordered 4 new bolts when I stripped the first one since I didn't want to make two trips to the dealership.

4. When putting the injectors back in, use a bit of oil on the O-rings and just seat them in the holes. Push the injectors in by hand slowly while twisting 1/4 turn or so. (Alternatively: Let the bracket push the injector down and seat it. Just go slow and steady when tightening down the torx bolt. It's easier than trying to tap them down with a hammer or something.)

Notes: The biggest bummer was that the coolant tank was a pain to get off without making a significant mess. If I had to do over I'd probably drain down the coolant to see if the tank drains down too so I wouldn't have coolant in it. Otherwise just be careful when removing the bottom hose that you put your finger or thumb over the outlet and have a towel handy to catch any spillage.

5. After the injector brackets are off I used a screwdriver to pry gently at the injectors to free them. I guess Subaru makes a puller for the injectors but I didn't have such a tool. If you do this, just be carful not to damage the o rings or the mating surfaces.

Notes:On the drivers side the wiring harness bracket needs to come off. You will need a T-25 Torx tool. Long needle nose pliers would help as well. Be sure you lube the o-rings before installing. I used spray silicone and it worked fine. Once back together and running I sprayed around each injector with starting fluid (ether) to insure I had no air leaks. If you have a leak the ether will cause the idle to increase. For your first time plan on a couple of hours.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
All of the above for stock Injectors! Now for JEC units:

6. No soldering is required for the connectors - take a small screwdriver (watchmakers or similar) - look carefully at the open end of the factory connector, there is a small plastic tang above the metal female terminals inside the connector. Push the screwdriver in so that it pushes the plastic tang up and away from the metal terminal. You have to do this to both while pulling on the wires at the back of the connector. Eventually the wires and the attached metal terminals will pop out the back of the connector. You do not need the metal terminals or the green plastic objects in your picture.
Install the wires with terminals in the new connector (with the red wire on the right when viewed from above). When they are bottomed out in the connector, push the orange clip in from the front.


This is a completely reversible procedure so save your old connectors.

7. The upper o rings are not available from Subaru in the States according to Subiegal. I special ordered some from Japan via a dealer here in Europe. I will have them on Monday and if they are right I will post the part number. In the meantime, I re-used the existing ones. For the bottom ones, I put on new Nissan o rings (part number 16618-53J00). You can check out this part number for the upper o ring while you are there to see if it will work - 16618-10V05.

Oil both o rings lightly and insert the injector pushing straight down. You will meet with considerable resistance. Sometimes a quarter turn while pushing down will be required to make it seat. I did not use the retaining clamp to force the injector in and it's probably not a good idea. I did put some Loctite 290 on the torx screws that hold the clamp when I installed them.

Injectors





TRM 21-AUG-2006: added to the How-To catalog sticky


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Last edited by TRM : 08-21-2006 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 11-03-2005, 11:56 AM   #2
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More step by step install pictures to come this weekend!

Request from moderator to make this a sticky!

Last edited by keyser_soze : 11-04-2005 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 11-04-2005, 06:10 AM   #3
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mm...OK....Nada Zip....counting to 3 and going to nabisco come on guys...Robert @staticX I thought you had done this before
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Old 11-04-2005, 08:42 AM   #4
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Sounds good to me. I didnt want to mess with it so I paid to have it done..
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Old 11-04-2005, 09:22 AM   #5
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Great write up Keyser ! I just did this last week and it was not much fun - the coolant tank is a real drag.

<u>No soldering is required for the connectors</u> - take a small screwdriver (watchmakers or similar) - look carefully at the open end of the factory connector, there is a small plastic tang above the metal female terminals inside the connector. Push the screwdriver in so that it pushes the plastic tang up and away from the metal terminal. You have to do this to both while pulling on the wires at the back of the connector. Eventually the wires and the attached metal terminals will pop out the back of the connector. You do not need the metal terminals or the green plastic objects in your picture.

Install the wires with terminals in the new connector (with the red wire on the right when viewed from above). When they are bottomed out in the connector, push the orange clip in from the front.

This is a completely reversible procedure so save your old connectors.
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Old 11-04-2005, 11:00 AM   #6
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Thank you. Thank you and Thank you.
I should probably get new O-rings from Subaru? Correct? Again this may seem silly but I don't know yet where how to put the o-rings on. I am hoping when I take the stock one out I can look at it and figure out where the new ones would have to go.
Last but not least; we havn't covered how to push the injectors back in. I read if they pop in that means they the oring slipped or something to that effect?! So someone chime in here:
1. Oil the bottom o-ring.
2. Push the injectors in by hand slowly?
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Old 11-04-2005, 01:30 PM   #7
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Added crappy paint dwg showing injector orientation and which side the red wire has to go
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Old 11-04-2005, 07:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keyser_soze
Thank you. Thank you and Thank you.
I should probably get new O-rings from Subaru? Correct? Again this may seem silly but I don't know yet where how to put the o-rings on. I am hoping when I take the stock one out I can look at it and figure out where the new ones would have to go.
Last but not least; we havn't covered how to push the injectors back in. I read if they pop in that means they the oring slipped or something to that effect?! So someone chime in here:
1. Oil the bottom o-ring.
2. Push the injectors in by hand slowly?
The upper o rings are not available from Subaru in the States according to Subiegal. I special ordered some from Japan via a dealer here in Europe. I will have them on Monday and if they are right I will post the part number. In the meantime, I re-used the existing ones. For the bottom ones, I put on new Nissan o rings (part number 16618-53J00). You can check out this part number for the upper o ring while you are there to see if it will work - 16618-10V05.

Oil both o rings lightly and insert the injector pushing straight down. You will meet with considerable resistance. Sometimes a quarter turn while pushing down will be required to make it seat. I did not use the retaining clamp to force the injector in and it's probably not a good idea. I did put some Loctite 290 on the torx screws that hold the clamp when I installed them.
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Old 11-05-2005, 07:23 AM   #9
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Thanks again! I updated top post with more info
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Old 11-05-2005, 07:48 AM   #10
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In the domestic world we always reuse the o-rings. They are o-rings. As long as they are not damaged when you uninstall then they will be fine when you reinstall as long as you reinstall properly. I've reused injector o-rings so many times I can't even count anymore. I've never had a problem. I always use motor oil on the o-rings during reassembly.

t
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Old 11-07-2005, 06:42 AM   #11
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DONE!!!!
Sorry guys no pictures. But do trust me. The instructions are very very very good. Just follow and PM me if you have any questions

As said before there is no soldering and the black and orange clips are all needed.

O-rings were in perfect condition and I just reused them.

Last edited by keyser_soze : 11-10-2005 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 11-07-2005, 01:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keyser_soze
DONE!!!!
Sorry guys no pictures. But do trust me. The instructions are very very very good. Just follow and PM me if you have any questions

As said before there is no soldering and the black and orange clips are all needed.

O-rings were in perfect condition and I just reused them.

My last question. I used a little bit of royal-purple to lube hte rings. My friend sort of scared me and said I shouldn't have used engin oil and it may attack the rubber? Please someone ensure me that I'm OK here and he is BSing


Injector tuning to follow
Your friend is BSing or doesn't know what he is saying. The o ring might swell a bit from the oil but that's it. You can be sure that it's rated for automotive contaminants.
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Old 11-10-2005, 12:27 PM   #13
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One last bump for this to be sticky?! I'm not sure Mod hasn't seen it yet or its not worthy?! I'm done and know how to do it now so it makes no difference for me but it be nice for the rest of the community
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Old 12-29-2005, 07:13 AM   #14
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I'm going to bump this back to life. I'm going to be installing these soon and am curious what values you used for these injectors in StreetTuner?
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Old 12-29-2005, 08:11 AM   #15
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You can use the values provided by JECS we have posted on our website.


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