DIY 720cc JECS Injector Install - Page 2

daemon · 12-29-2005, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MZM Performance

You can use the values provided by JECS we have posted on our website.

Are the ones on your site direct plug-in values in StreetTuner? For example, the stock injectors are set at 1.37 @ 12V in StreetTuner. So you are saying that for the JECs I should put in .633 in StreetTuner (@ 12V)? The JECs really have half the latency of the stockers? I thought that most aftermarkets were slower than stock, so those numbers just didn't look right. ST doesn't say what pressure the values are for so I was thinking they might not be the same as what you have posted.

**MZM Performance** · 12-29-2005, 08:52 AM

The values provided by JECS work as they are. You or your tuner may use different values based on your fuel system (pump, rails etc.) and tuning strategies as you fit for best performance.

GeorgeRex · 12-29-2005, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MZM Performance

The values provided by JECS work as they are. You or your tuner may use different values based on your fuel system (pump, rails etc.) and tuning strategies as you fit for best performance.

I am confused by your answer - I have these injectors and Street Tuner - do you recommend using these settings or does it not really matter?

daemon · 12-29-2005, 12:09 PM

Glad I wasn't the only one confused.

GeorgeRex · 12-29-2005, 12:10 PM

For anyone interested, the 300 KPa (Kilo Pascal) listed on the MZM website is equivalent to 43 psi which is the nominal fuel pressure before boost for an STi.

daemon · 12-30-2005, 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeRex

For anyone interested, the 300 KPa (Kilo Pascal) listed on the MZM website is equivalent to 43 psi which is the nominal fuel pressure before boost for an STi.

Thanks. I guess knowing that makes me feel better about plugging those numbers directly in. I haven't messed with the fuel pressure regulator, so I imagine those are "the correct" numbers to use in my case.

WolfPlayer · 02-08-2006, 07:36 AM

I wanted to update the original thread with my experience since I just installed my 720cc injectors last night. Also, for the record, JECS 720cc Injectors are the same injectors as the Nismo 740cc injectors. They are, in fact, the same exact injector. I had my injectors flow tested and latecy tested at WitchHunter.

1) To release the pressure in the fuel system simply unplug the fuel pump solenoid. This solenoid can be found in the passenger footwell. Remove the door sill/trim that extends along the bottom of the door jam and up the front. It is just one piece that snaps on the bottom and has a push pin and a weird plastic screw-thing on the front. The solenoid is the one with the GREEN plug all the way in the back. I have a couple pics I can post later. Unplug the connector, loosen the gas cap, and start the car until it dies. Now crank for another 5 seconds. Pressure is now released.

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/fu...l/DSC05668.JPG
http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/fu...l/DSC05669.JPG

2) For the driver's side injectors: I removed the windshield washer tank. It gives a lot more access to the area where you need your hands. The tank has 2 bolts on the top and has a green electrical connector to the pump and a hose from the pump. Make sure you cap that nipple on the pump when you pull the hose off or else you will have fluid everywhere. Ok, you need to remove the harness bracket in order to get to the injectors. The harness bracket that needs to be removed is held in with 3 bolts (one on each side and one in the middle down by the fuel rail). Remove all the bolts. Clip the 2 zip ties holding the harness to the bracket. The bracket can be removed AFTER you remove the front-most breather hose from the valve cover. This is the one that does not have the special clamp. FWIW, if you don't remove this hose then you will be wondering how the heck to get the bracket out. The bracket does not just pull out easy. You have to rotate it and work with it. It will come out. I also unplugged various weatherpack connectors to get things moved aside and I unbolted the ground from the top of the manifold. With the bracket removed, unplug the injectors and replace the connector (see 2b below). Before removing the injectors try to use compressed air to blow away anything around the injector to keep all dirt out of the fuel rail. Remove the injectors by removing the small torx bolt next to the injector. This releases a special clamp that goes over the injector. Remove the torx bolt, swing the clamp aside (or remove it). Note that there is no bottom to this clamp ... the bottom is actually part of the fuel rail. These torx bolts are not put in tight! Be gentle with them and put them back in without gorilla strength

a) I don't see how ANYONE can simply wiggle the stock injectors out. I am a relatively strong guy (175 and bench 275) and I couldn't do it ... and I have replaced a lot of injectors in my life. I had to pry up on every one with a screwdriver. No biggie. This is easy and makes quick work of the injectors. To install the injectors I used the wooden handle of a hammer. DON'T HAMMER! Just put the end of the wooden handle against the gray cap on the top of the injector and push. Push slow and HARD. Eventually the injector will pop in. You'll know it when you feel/hear it. Unmistakable.

b) Putting the red wire toward the right bottom on the injector plug as indicated in the original thread can be a little confusing because the black JECS harness clips seem reversed. The wires will not lock into the black connector. They will lock in if you reverse them! This ALMOST makes you think you need to reverse them. Don't reverse them. The wires are not suppose to click into the black connector. It is the orange top to the connector that has a groove for locking the wires in place. Make sure you hear the click and tug on those wires to ensure they are in there all the way and secured with the orange clip.

3) For the driver's side injectors: The front passenger injector is the easiest of all 4. However, the rear passenger makes up for this

Follow these directions and your life should be easier regarding the passenger injectors.

a) Remove the top of the airbox and the MAF hose. Ya, you have to unplug the MAF.

b) Now do the front passenger injector. Easy as pie.

c) Pull and tie the coolant reservoir out of the way. This is very easy to do. 2 bolts on the top of the manifold and one nut on the passenger bottom hold the reservoir in. Remove the 2 bolts and nut. Remove the hoses from the top of the reservoir. There are 3 hoses. Unhook them all. For the biggest hose on top, use hose pliers or small vice grips to gently pinch the hose closed to esnure no coolant spills. For the smaller hoses tie them up and out of the way. Don't just leave them sit there or else when you lift the coolant reservoir you will force coolant pressure to push coolant out those little hoses. That's why you tie them UP and out of the way. Now you can lift the coolant reservoir up and pull it towards the front of the car. It doesn't move much because the main hose from the bottom of the tank feeds toward the block. However, there is plenty of give there to lift it up and pull it toward the front of the car. Zip tie it so it stays up and to the front of the car. Very easy. I have some pictures of this I can post later.

d) The rear injector is severely covered up and concealed. There are some power steering hoses and such attached via 2 gold brackets to the main black harness bracket. Unbolt the gold bracketry (2 bolts on the rear bracket and one bolt on the front bracket). Now unbolt the main bracket (only 2 bolts). There is one bolt toward the front down by the fuel rail and one all the way in the back attached to the manifold in front of the wastegate actuator. Clip off the black zip tie that attaches the harness to the black bracket. The bracket needs to be moved toward the rear of the car to get to that rear injector. However, the bracket doesn't seem to move much. Now the key point: Unplug the REARMOST breather vent from the valve cover. This is the one with the special crimp! (the special crimp is removed by prying on the front portion with a screwdriver -- it can be reused by squeezing it back together with some needle nose pliers). This is what is interfering with moving the bracket. After unhooking this vent tube you can push it to the rear of the car. Now you can twist/fiddle/push that bracket toward the rear (gotta do some twisting). The stud toward the front of the bracket gets in the way as you are moving the bracket and interferes with the power steering lines. Not to worry. There is some play. You can move the lines enough to avoid this stud.

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/fu...l/DSC05670.JPG
http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/fu...l/DSC05671.JPG

4) Don't use MZM's published latency values. They don't work (StreetTUNER). Those values are way too small, IMHO.

t

HighSpeedLowDrag · 05-13-2006, 02:55 PM

Bump for a great write up. I used both keyser's and wolfplayer's instructions above to pull my stock injectors today so I could send them out to Perrin. They pretty much take any guesswork out of what you need to remove to get at the injectors. I spent around 90 minutes, but I did have the garage already set up from doing my Walbro earlier in the day, and that was just removal of the injectors. One thing I found was that I didn't have to unplug either breather hose to get the brackets out, or disconnect the two smaller hoses on the coolant reservoir to get it out of the way, but that could vary from car to car.

pt518sti · 05-13-2006, 02:58 PM

which stores carry these injectors?

I've been having a hard time finding them.
Only place I've seen in MZM or something and they're listed as $639.99

GeorgeRex · 05-13-2006, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pt518sti

which stores carry these injectors?

I've been having a hard time finding them.
Only place I've seen in MZM or something and they're listed as $639.99

Try eBay - here's a link I found in less than 15 seconds of searching

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/740CC...spagenameZWDVW

and there's lots more...

Don't forget to get the clips for the wiring harnesses - my vendor supplied them with the injectors.

pt518sti · 05-13-2006, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeRex

Try eBay - here's a link I found in less than 15 seconds of searching

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/740CC...spagenameZWDVW

and there's lots more...

Don't forget to get the clips for the wiring harnesses - my vendor supplied them with the injectors.

Those will work on a STi?

GeorgeRex · 05-14-2006, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pt518sti

Those will work on a STi?

Yes, our car takes the same injectors as a Nissan SR20DET - just a slight difference in the electrical connector which is what the clips fix.

keyser_soze · 08-21-2006, 07:17 AM

itwasabouttime and your welcome!

**TRM** · 08-21-2006, 12:17 PM

keyser...i'm adding this to the How-To Catalog Sticky in this section. it doesn't need it's own sticky.

calisti · 09-29-2006, 02:57 PM

As far as a tool to remove the injectors, Harbor freight sells a set of 16" orange handle needlenose pliers with 3 different tips, one straight, one angled, and another with two half circles at an angle perfect for pulling the injectors out or also useful for countless other installs. Either way these were only $12.99 for the set!
I also found another set for 3 different size hoses: 3/8, 1/2, 3/4"

Here's a pic of the other two:

02-08-2006, 07:36 AM	#22
WolfPlayer Moderator & ECU Tech Car: 05 CGM STI Fav Mod: mo boostaz Location: Fredneck, MD Posts: 3,577 Join Date: Jun 2004 Trader Rating: (6)	I wanted to update the original thread with my experience since I just installed my 720cc injectors last night. Also, for the record, JECS 720cc Injectors are the same injectors as the Nismo 740cc injectors. They are, in fact, the same exact injector. I had my injectors flow tested and latecy tested at WitchHunter. 1) To release the pressure in the fuel system simply unplug the fuel pump solenoid. This solenoid can be found in the passenger footwell. Remove the door sill/trim that extends along the bottom of the door jam and up the front. It is just one piece that snaps on the bottom and has a push pin and a weird plastic screw-thing on the front. The solenoid is the one with the GREEN plug all the way in the back. I have a couple pics I can post later. Unplug the connector, loosen the gas cap, and start the car until it dies. Now crank for another 5 seconds. Pressure is now released. http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/fu...l/DSC05668.JPG http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/fu...l/DSC05669.JPG 2) For the driver's side injectors: I removed the windshield washer tank. It gives a lot more access to the area where you need your hands. The tank has 2 bolts on the top and has a green electrical connector to the pump and a hose from the pump. Make sure you cap that nipple on the pump when you pull the hose off or else you will have fluid everywhere. Ok, you need to remove the harness bracket in order to get to the injectors. The harness bracket that needs to be removed is held in with 3 bolts (one on each side and one in the middle down by the fuel rail). Remove all the bolts. Clip the 2 zip ties holding the harness to the bracket. The bracket can be removed AFTER you remove the front-most breather hose from the valve cover. This is the one that does not have the special clamp. FWIW, if you don't remove this hose then you will be wondering how the heck to get the bracket out. The bracket does not just pull out easy. You have to rotate it and work with it. It will come out. I also unplugged various weatherpack connectors to get things moved aside and I unbolted the ground from the top of the manifold. With the bracket removed, unplug the injectors and replace the connector (see 2b below). Before removing the injectors try to use compressed air to blow away anything around the injector to keep all dirt out of the fuel rail. Remove the injectors by removing the small torx bolt next to the injector. This releases a special clamp that goes over the injector. Remove the torx bolt, swing the clamp aside (or remove it). Note that there is no bottom to this clamp ... the bottom is actually part of the fuel rail. These torx bolts are not put in tight! Be gentle with them and put them back in without gorilla strength a) I don't see how ANYONE can simply wiggle the stock injectors out. I am a relatively strong guy (175 and bench 275) and I couldn't do it ... and I have replaced a lot of injectors in my life. I had to pry up on every one with a screwdriver. No biggie. This is easy and makes quick work of the injectors. To install the injectors I used the wooden handle of a hammer. DON'T HAMMER! Just put the end of the wooden handle against the gray cap on the top of the injector and push. Push slow and HARD. Eventually the injector will pop in. You'll know it when you feel/hear it. Unmistakable. b) Putting the red wire toward the right bottom on the injector plug as indicated in the original thread can be a little confusing because the black JECS harness clips seem reversed. The wires will not lock into the black connector. They will lock in if you reverse them! This ALMOST makes you think you need to reverse them. Don't reverse them. The wires are not suppose to click into the black connector. It is the orange top to the connector that has a groove for locking the wires in place. Make sure you hear the click and tug on those wires to ensure they are in there all the way and secured with the orange clip. 3) For the driver's side injectors: The front passenger injector is the easiest of all 4. However, the rear passenger makes up for this Follow these directions and your life should be easier regarding the passenger injectors. a) Remove the top of the airbox and the MAF hose. Ya, you have to unplug the MAF. b) Now do the front passenger injector. Easy as pie. c) Pull and tie the coolant reservoir out of the way. This is very easy to do. 2 bolts on the top of the manifold and one nut on the passenger bottom hold the reservoir in. Remove the 2 bolts and nut. Remove the hoses from the top of the reservoir. There are 3 hoses. Unhook them all. For the biggest hose on top, use hose pliers or small vice grips to gently pinch the hose closed to esnure no coolant spills. For the smaller hoses tie them up and out of the way. Don't just leave them sit there or else when you lift the coolant reservoir you will force coolant pressure to push coolant out those little hoses. That's why you tie them UP and out of the way. Now you can lift the coolant reservoir up and pull it towards the front of the car. It doesn't move much because the main hose from the bottom of the tank feeds toward the block. However, there is plenty of give there to lift it up and pull it toward the front of the car. Zip tie it so it stays up and to the front of the car. Very easy. I have some pictures of this I can post later. d) The rear injector is severely covered up and concealed. There are some power steering hoses and such attached via 2 gold brackets to the main black harness bracket. Unbolt the gold bracketry (2 bolts on the rear bracket and one bolt on the front bracket). Now unbolt the main bracket (only 2 bolts). There is one bolt toward the front down by the fuel rail and one all the way in the back attached to the manifold in front of the wastegate actuator. Clip off the black zip tie that attaches the harness to the black bracket. The bracket needs to be moved toward the rear of the car to get to that rear injector. However, the bracket doesn't seem to move much. Now the key point: Unplug the REARMOST breather vent from the valve cover. This is the one with the special crimp! (the special crimp is removed by prying on the front portion with a screwdriver -- it can be reused by squeezing it back together with some needle nose pliers). This is what is interfering with moving the bracket. After unhooking this vent tube you can push it to the rear of the car. Now you can twist/fiddle/push that bracket toward the rear (gotta do some twisting). The stud toward the front of the bracket gets in the way as you are moving the bracket and interferes with the power steering lines. Not to worry. There is some play. You can move the lines enough to avoid this stud. http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/fu...l/DSC05670.JPG http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/fu...l/DSC05671.JPG 4) Don't use MZM's published latency values. They don't work (StreetTUNER). Those values are way too small, IMHO. t Last edited by WolfPlayer : 02-08-2006 at 05:21 PM.

09-29-2006, 02:57 PM	#30
calisti Professional STI Racer Car: 04 WRB STI Fav Mod: vf36 Location: 315 awhp 371 ft/lbs Posts: 779 Join Date: Jul 2004 Trader Rating: (4)	As far as a tool to remove the injectors, Harbor freight sells a set of 16" orange handle needlenose pliers with 3 different tips, one straight, one angled, and another with two half circles at an angle perfect for pulling the injectors out or also useful for countless other installs. Either way these were only $12.99 for the set! I also found another set for 3 different size hoses: 3/8, 1/2, 3/4" Here's a pic of the other two: This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.

12-29-2005, 08:52 AM	#17
MZM Performance Authorized Vendor Car: 04 STI & 05 EVO MR Fav Mod: APSTSR70 :D Location: Austin, TX Posts: 103 Join Date: Nov 2005 Trader Rating: (0)	The values provided by JECS work as they are. You or your tuner may use different values based on your fuel system (pump, rails etc.) and tuning strategies as you fit for best performance.

12-29-2005, 12:09 PM	#19
daemon Professional STI Racer Car: 2004 STi Location: Florida Posts: 794 Join Date: Feb 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	Glad I wasn't the only one confused.

12-29-2005, 12:10 PM	#20
GeorgeRex Junior STI Driver Posts: 186 Join Date: Feb 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	For anyone interested, the 300 KPa (Kilo Pascal) listed on the MZM website is equivalent to 43 psi which is the nominal fuel pressure before boost for an STi.

05-13-2006, 02:55 PM	#23
HighSpeedLowDrag Junior STI Driver Car: 04 Subaru WRX STi Fav Mod: MSPT tune - Thanks Dave! Location: Long Island, New York Posts: 70 Join Date: Nov 2005 Trader Rating: (2)	Bump for a great write up. I used both keyser's and wolfplayer's instructions above to pull my stock injectors today so I could send them out to Perrin. They pretty much take any guesswork out of what you need to remove to get at the injectors. I spent around 90 minutes, but I did have the garage already set up from doing my Walbro earlier in the day, and that was just removal of the injectors. One thing I found was that I didn't have to unplug either breather hose to get the brackets out, or disconnect the two smaller hoses on the coolant reservoir to get it out of the way, but that could vary from car to car.

05-13-2006, 02:58 PM	#24
pt518sti S204 Racer Car: 2005 White/Gold STi Fav Mod: TD06-20G/Tein Flex coilovers Location: New York Posts: 2,909 Join Date: May 2005 Trader Rating: (8)	which stores carry these injectors? I've been having a hard time finding them. Only place I've seen in MZM or something and they're listed as $639.99

08-21-2006, 07:17 AM	#28
keyser_soze Professional STI Racer Car: WRB, 2005 STi Posts: 673 Join Date: May 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	itwasabouttime and your welcome!

08-21-2006, 12:17 PM	#29
TRM i am Darwin's rottweiler. Car: 04 STi Fav Mod: Driving Lessons Location: Eastern PA Posts: 2,198 Join Date: Oct 2003 Trader Rating: (0)	keyser...i'm adding this to the How-To Catalog Sticky in this section. it doesn't need it's own sticky.