[Kevin]

This how-to install is sponsored by SoJDM.com (PM SoJDM) and RaceRamps.com (PM RaceRamps), both supporting IWSTI vendors.

Product to be installed:

FILTERMAG: Buy FILTERMAG from SoJDM.com

Description: FilterMAG magnetically removes metal particles from your engine oil as soon as you install it. FilterMAG easily attaches to common metal canister oil filter cartridges by touching it onto the filter's outer housing — the ultra magnetic force snaps it into place (watch your fingers!!! - its that strong). Solid as a rock. Never wears out! Move it from vehicle to vehicle; keep it for life!!!

I saw this product at SEMA and knew I had to have it when I bought my new STI. Below are some of the videos we shot at SEMA:





SoJDM.com sent me two filtermags because I wanted some extra protection for my engine since I bought this car and plan to keep for awhile. You never can have too much protection from metal particles that may be floating around in the oil. Below is a picture of both sides of the box:




Each box contained a Filter Mag that will fit the Subaru's oil filter:



Each filter contains a number of equally sized rare earth magnets that are incredibly powerful. You definitely don't want to get your skin caught between the magnet and anything metal:




Here is an up-close shot of the inside of the FilterMAG:




Required Tools:

1) Flathead Screwdriver
2) Jack
3) Race Ramps or jack stands
4) Towel
5) Patience

Installation:

The 1st step is to get the vehicle in the air. I pulled the STI up on my new Race Ramps (if you don't have them, get 'em) or jack your car up and put the car up on jack stands.

If you own a set of Race Ramps, pull them out of the garage:



Line them up with the wheels of the car:



Slowly pull the car up on the ramps, making sure the wheels are centered on the ramps:




Pull up on the top of the ramp and let the tires come to rest against the huge Race Ramps stops:






Since the car is high enough off the ground with just the front ramps, I decided not to use the Race Ramps Wheel Cribs:



To safely secure the car while its on the ramp, place your Race Ramps Wheel Chocks behind the wheels:



With the car secured, lay down down a towel or something on the ground to avoid getting dirty:





As you slide under the car, you will notice a large plastic guard that protects the radiator and engine from water, dirt, and major pieces of debris on the street. Its held on by several clips, screws, and pop rivets. Remove the two pop rivets first holding the bumper to the gaurd, but leave in the two screws holding the front portion of the guard to the chassis:



Pictured below are two clips holding the rear of the guard to a cross member (see large red circles below), two clips molded into the gaurd holding guard to the center plate (see red squares), and a single screw in the center. Don't remove these yet.


First, we want to remove a pop rivet connecting the plastic gaurd to the inside of the fenderwell. Locate the pop rivet in each fenderwell:



Once located, clear any debris from the pop rivet if a lot of dirt or debris has accumulated in the fenderwells (both sides pictures below):






Take a flathead screw driver and slide the face under the head of the pop rivet:


Gently apply force to slide the head of the pop rivet up, loosening the connection. Make sure to remove the entire pop rivet assembly as one piece if you can. If you can only remove the head, then you will need some needle nose pliers or similiar device to remove the pop rivet's body. Repeat the process for the other side:



Below is an image of one of the removed pop rivets with head and body:



Here is a what the pop rivet looks like when its disassembled:



Now its time to remove the clips holding the plastic gaurd to the cross member (the ones in the large red circles):



This is a closeup photography of one of the clips that had the large red circle around it in the photographs above. Remove them:



Here is a shot from directly below to give you some more perspective. Ignore the screw in the center of the image circled in red:



Here is an upclose photograph of one of the clips holding the rear part of the gaurd to the center plate (remember, leave these installed until its time to remove them):



Here is the opposite side:



You should be able to use your finger to pry these clips off:



At first it may be stubborn especially if some debris got caught in the clip so be patient and gently unclip it:



With the actual clip undone, gently slide it off and away from the gaurd:



This is what the gaurd looks like after you removed the clip:



Here is a photograph of the clip you will remove. Don't forget to repeat the process on the other side.




Now its time to remove the screw in the center and the two clips molded to the gaurd. For reference purposes, the two clips I am talking about are those pictured in the red squares below and the screw is the one in the center of the image below. I suggest removing the screw first to make it easier to remove the clips from the center plate:



This is what it looks like when you get up-close to the clips. Notice that the clip allows the gaurd to hang into place:



This is what it will look like when the molded clip is removed from the cross member (I was able to do it with my fingers). Don't forget to remove the other side:



Once you remove the screw, clips, and pop rivets, you will need to support the rear of the gaurd up in the air while you remove the remaining screws seen in the lower red circles (the larger circles):




With all of the clips, screws, and pop rivets removed, you can slide the gaurd out from under the car to access the lower engine bay:



Notice the molded clips and area where the screw in the center went:



Here is the molded clip up-close:



Here is what the gaurd is protecting from the elements. In the lower engine bay, the biggest things that stand out are the oil pan, exhaust manifold, and oil filter:



Now its time to install the FilterMags in a way to minimize the heat exposure of the non-metallic pieces:



By placing the FilterMags on the filter in this way I maximized the distance of the exhaust manifold from the edges of the FilterMag to minimize unnecessary heat exposure from the exhaust:






Here is a shot of the undercarriage from the front to the rear of the vehicle, taken just under the transmission:



Once you are done with the installation, button up the gaurd by reinstalling all of the clips, screws, and pop rivets. Remove the Race Ramps Wheel Chocks or the tool you used to secure the car, slowly back the car off the ramps, and put the ramps away. That should complete our installation of the FilterMags! I hope you enjoyed this how-to install!

To read more about the IWSTI Project car featured in this how-to and learn about its other modifications, feel free to check out the journal. Don't forget to tell me what you think since your feedback helps guide the project and future how-tos:
View the Journal

[slwdrvrzsuk]

looks pretty cool...let us know if u find anything after doin an oil change!

[MoeSTI]

Interesting...Would this require a quick oil change for cars with high mileage the 1st time around? I wonder if this would cause the filter to clog up since the metal will pile up in one spot (for those that only get one FilterMag) and cause a pressure drop?

[Kevin]

Originally Posted by slwdrvrzsuk

looks pretty cool...let us know if u find anything after doin an oil change!

Will do, I will cut open my filter if I can!

Originally Posted by MoeSTI

Interesting...Would this require a quick oil change for cars with high mileage the 1st time around? I wonder if this would cause the filter to clog up since the metal will pile up in one spot (for those that only get one FilterMag) and cause a pressure drop?

No oil change is required. The FilterMAG can transfer to your next oil filter at the next oil change. It is still recommended to change your filter at regular intervals. This will not clog the filter or cause any metal to pile up in one spot. If you watch the video, you will see that the FilterMAG attracs the metal to the outside of the filter against the insides, which is away from the filter.

The FilterMAG will not cause a pressure drop. The FilterMAG does not impede the flow of oil, it only attracts the metal engine particles that do not get caught by the filter. I suggest watching the two videos at the beginning of this thread to learn more. Or PM Jim from SoJDM.com, he can be a great asset in understanding this tough and he will make sure to sell you the right filter for your car.

[MoeSTI]

I watched the 1st video so many times I stopped paying attention (?)

Thanks for the info Kevin! I'll have two of these in my shopping cart before the day is over :c)

[Chino7385]

Whats the part number or filter size range?

[wac]

This caught my attention, but I have a technical reservation with the second video:

HSPN reporter: "Why can't I just take my magnet [from] home and slap it onto my own filter and do the same thing?"

Bob from Filtermag: "Well the first thing I would tell you is your magnet would affect all your computers... and electrical parts that you have in your engine."

I'm an EE. There's no way a household magnet will affect anything in that engine bay, especially one much weaker than those in Filtermag. Filtermag does not violate Maxwell's Equations. From what I saw, anyone can just open up some broken computer hard drives, extract the rare-earth magnets that are made from the same material as Filtermag, and do the same thing.

BTW Kevin, nice write up and pics of the plastic engine guard and attachment details were fantastic.

I'm not disputing if Filtermag works or not - I just don't like misinformation.

-WaC

[nil5]

Originally Posted by wac

This caught my attention, but I have a technical reservation with the second video:



I'm an EE. There's no way a household magnet will affect anything in that engine bay, especially one much weaker than those in Filtermag. Filtermag does not violate Maxwell's Equations. From what I saw, anyone can just open up some broken computer hard drives, extract the rare-earth magnets that are made from the same material as Filtermag, and do the same thing.

BTW Kevin, nice write up and pics of the plastic engine guard and attachment details were fantastic.

I'm not disputing if Filtermag works or not - I just don't like misinformation.

-WaC

daaaaaaaamn straight. it is hilarious and predictable how people are conned into so many gadgets that, by virtue of incorporating magnets, have "scientifically verifiable" (but never proven) magical powers.

[omegax]

Nice writeup but I have to mention that those two front pushclips do not hold the tray. They hold the bumper on. There is no need to remove them.

[severe]

id like to see a pic of a cut up oil filter from that car after 3k miles, theres already a magnet in the drain plug after the break in oil change it seems to be pretty dam clean during oil changes.

Originally Posted by omegax

Nice writeup but I have to mention that those two front pushclips do not hold the tray. They hold the bumper on. There is no need to remove them.

unless you've ever bottomed out, then they dont hold anything, except hte brackets that just spin around