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[kenji815]

Originally Posted by kenji815

Battery is relocated into the trunk

I followed this guide for general guidance
Battery Relocation Project

Only took about 1 hour and some supplies:
(You can buy battery relocation kits from Summit racing for $100-150, but i prefer DIY and making the wiring look cleaner)

2 X Rockford fosgate battery Terminal
1 X Battery Tray from Autozone
1 X Shorter battery J Hook from Autozone
4 X 5/16″ bolt, washer, nut to bolt down the battery tray.
2 ft of black 4 gauge wire
18 ft of red 4 gauge wire
2 X Red 4 gauge ring terminal
2 X Black 4 gauge Ring terminal
1 X Stinger Distribution block
1 X battery disconnect switch rated 100 amps

Optional
1 X Vented battery box must be used with regular battery. (Interstate, die hard, autozone etc..)

[SRH_STi]

Yay! I always like battery relocations.

You mentioned the Summit kit, but they also have cheaper kits that are like $70. I used one on my track car.

Also, some tracks won't let you run unless your killswitch is reachable from outside the car. And don't you think you should be using a battery box?

[kenji815]

Originally Posted by SRH_STi

Yay! I always like battery relocations.

You mentioned the Summit kit, but they also have cheaper kits that are like $70. I used one on my track car.

Also, some tracks won't let you run unless your killswitch is reachable from outside the car. And don't you think you should be using a battery box?

That's correct. I believe the killed switch rule is mainly for drag racing and certain racing requirement.
Since it's a street car i'm not worry about that.
I'm not worry about battery box because i'm running a sealed optima battery.
If you are using a regular battery (die hard, autozone, interstate etc.), you must use a vented battery box.

[diviniti]

I would like to add some things to this post for people thinking about doing the relocation. The shown method above would not be NHRA Legal and most tracks would not let you run down them with that setup. (Not knocking the write up at all, its fine for a street car but I wanted to make people aware if they want to go to the track)

NHRA 2008 RULES (Will be the same for 2009)

8.1 BATTERY

Batteries must be securely mounted, may not be located in driver compartment. See General Regulations 8.1.

8.3 MASTER CUTOFF

Mandatory on any car with a battery running 9.99 (*6.39) or quicker, or any car exceeding 135 mph (217.2 km/h) or on any car where the battery is relocated into the trunk area. See General Regulations 8.4.

8.1 BATTERIES

All batteries must be securely mounted and may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is re-located in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch (.6 mm) or .032-inch (.8 mm) aluminum, or FIA accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery, and must be vented outside of body. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds (68 kg) combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements) is permitted. Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Hold-down bolts must be minimum 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) if battery is relocated from stock and other than stock hold-downs are used ("J" hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.).

(NOTE: The above pertains to all batteries. Being a sealed battery/dry battery does not matter)

8.4 MASTER CUTOFF

Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters.

[houdni]

Just my opinion suggestion:
run another cable (ground) back to the engine / starter area...after a few years of daily driving....youll figure out why...

Didnt care for summits kit...they use thick wires but the stranded wires are very thick and are very rigid... use some welding wire or marine/car stereo wires instead...

nothing wrong with just wiring the ground to the back chassis...but if you get a chance...you should run another ground back to the engine/starter

[diviniti]

Originally Posted by houdni

Just my opinion suggestion:
run another cable (ground) back to the engine / starter area...after a few years of daily driving....youll figure out why...

Although this would probably work, I don't think it is really a good idea and probably not needed. If you have a large gauge (short) ground wire going from the battery to the body, with a good clean large contact surface area on the car.. it will be just fine. Having a large gauge ground wire running from the trunk to the engine bay would probably cause interference or a ground loop, especially for people with audio systems.

[torquemada]

Originally Posted by diviniti

Although this would probably work, I don't think it is really a good idea and probably not needed. If you have a large gauge (short) ground wire going from the battery to the body, with a good clean large contact surface area on the car.. it will be just fine. Having a large gauge ground wire running from the trunk to the engine bay would probably cause interference or a ground loop, especially for people with audio systems.

any other opinions on this

[vodka]

Also keep in mind that relocation of the battery has been shown to cause issues with people running stand-alone setups, at least in Subaru. It may not be a mile away, but increasing the distance of the wiring by that much does affect such sensitive things as an ECU in some cases. Just be aware that you might want to test it out on a per application basis, before going through with building/installing a sealed box in the trunk for the relocation, then finding out it's causing your ECU to "freak out".

[pdxfocus]

Ok I have one question whats the main benefit to moving the battery to the back of the car?

I have a system and I have a battery thats too big to do under the hood so thats why I am working on a plan to move the battery to the back of the car... I just wanted to know if you guys had any ideas to the other benifits of the relocation! THANKS!

[torquemada]

better weight balance