[sanhedrin]

Just got the pics, and thought I'd repost the writeup with the pictures. (Click the pics for bigger ones)

This is in reference to this thread:
http://www.imprezawrxsti.com/postnuk...wtopic&t=11904



Materials needed
1- m16x1.5x20mm bolt
2- 15mm in diameter washers (check this diameter the washers should fit
inside mastercylinder they should be 1/2 I believe)
brake fluid


1.) remove the safety clip from clutch actuating arm between accelerator
pedal and the tranny tunnel.
2.) remove pin from clutch actuating arm, it has a safety on it so you have
to use a needle nose and squeeze the end and pull it half way out. Then
push arm to the other direction to butt it up to the other side of the of
the master cylinder actuating arm. If you get the pin stuck inside push it
back in and start over again. This will make more sense when you look at
it.
3.) remove intercooler.
4.) remove starter.
5.) remove bolts for slave cylinder.
6.) remove bolt holding the line to the pitch link mount on fire wall.
7.) remove nuts off of the master cylinder mount on the fire wall.
8.) remove Hydraulic clutch system from car

system removed from car.

remove these fasteners.

It should look like this.

remove shim housing from Slave.

remove shim housing from Master.

What remains.

locate Fellel fitting inside Slave cylinder

Find an appropriate diameter wood screw to thread tightly into Ferrel
insert. Then with the Slave held firmly in a vise take the claw of one
hammer and hold the screw like you would to pull out a nail. With another
hammer hit the claw till the ferrel is removed. (note: not much force is
needed)

This is what you should have once the Ferrel is removed

Next is the master cylinder.

Parts needed to plug hole in master. (note: you must file the end of the
bolt to a flat surface to insure a good seal with copper washers)

Insert washers as shown.

Thread bolt into Master Cylinder and tighten till it bottoms out on
washers. Then add 1/8 turn to compress washers.

Reinstall lines to Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder. (note: the bend in
the line must go towards the body of the Slave Cylinder.)

Please note angle of the line relative to the Slave Cylinder for proper
fitment. Now tighten all fittings (snug + 1/8 turn)

what's left

bench bleed system and reinstall in reverse order to 1-8 as listed above.

[salaki]

Courtesy of BikerBoy

Good mods.. Tried this on 2G DSM and I liked it so much and very soon will do it on my STi.

Moderator.. Please make this sticky so I don't loose this again..

[HiRevImports]

Thanks for the pics. Does anyone actually have any first hand experience with this mod on an STi??

[salaki]

Originally Posted by HiRevImports

Thanks for the pics. Does anyone actually have any first hand experience with this mod on an STi??

Soon..
I am having trouble finding the bolt..
Local hardware store don't carry it..
Any advice?

I did this type of mod on my 2G DSM Eclipse before and the clutch engaged a LOTTTTT faster..

[Digitalfiend]

I just wonder if this device is necessary to reduce the stress on the drivetrain and by removing it you increase the risk of damaging something expensive.

[salaki]

Originally Posted by Digitalfiend

I just wonder if this device is necessary to reduce the stress on the drivetrain and by removing it you increase the risk of damaging something expensive.

True but I can handle it.
You can always adjust the way you drive.
I don't drag race or launch @ 5K rpm at all.
Mostly rev match during twisties drive or spirited drives.

I am sure this restriction is added by Subaru so those "other people" won't be able to abuse it that much..

Just put the clutch stainless line w/ ATE Super Blue.
It grabs slightly faster and clutch feel slightly heavier..
I like it.. realy precise.

BTW.. here's a link to buy clutch line for cheap:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm
(scroll down.. $20 bucks something shiped)
Make sure you get the one for the 2G ('95-'99) Ecllipse instead of 1G.
It's longer than Subaru OEM but it fits fine w/ some extra rerouting.



Looking forward to remove all the restriction.

Or if I think it's too much... I can always put it back to stock.

[Scuba_Steve]

Hmmm? I can burn all 4 at will, cut 1.6 60fts or drive it like a grandma and the clutch feels fine. So what is the benefit of this mod?

[bikerboy]

You can find the bolt at any oil change place it is a standard drain bolt for many cars.


A drain plug bolt might be a little shorter in the threads, I would screw it completely in the master cylinder and if it goes all the way in then ditch the copper washers and reuse the stock washer. This is only if the flange on the drain bolt seats all the way on the master cylinder!

[AndyM]

wow thanks great directions. The pics help a ton too!

[bikerboy]

Thanks it was the least I ould do to help the comunity

[serendipity]

Originally Posted by Scuba_Steve

Hmmm? I can burn all 4 at will, cut 1.6 60fts or drive it like a grandma and the clutch feels fine. So what is the benefit of this mod?

How are you folks spinning tires? Are you using tires other than the stockers?

I was never able to spin with stock tires, except once with the diff open at the track with a hard launch. And now, with AVS Sports (18", can't be any stickier than stock), I'm even less able to spin.

I'd be interested in doing this mod (hate the feel and jerkiness of the stock clutch), but I also don't want to snap any axles. As it is, I can drop the clutch at 6 grand and launch like crazy (1.67 60's). But I still never get any wheelspin...

[capaSTi]

very informative write-up - thanks :wink:

Originally Posted by serendipity

...
How are you folks spinning tires? Are you using tires other than the stockers?

Have you added any power mods to your car - this helps a great deal when trying to spin all four...

[serendipity]

Originally Posted by capaSTi

Have you added any power mods to your car - this helps a great deal when trying to spin all four...

Yes - turboXS intake, TBE, and UTEC with about 21psi in the midrange. The car doesn't lack for power, I just don't understand these folks who say they burn all 4 at will. I launch the **** out of the car, and it just hooks and goes. I'd RATHER know that if I launch too hard, I'll spin instead of snapping.

[cnstman]

can you burn them on the street? i have seen scuba burn all 4 at a strip however, so it can be done.

[serendipity]

Originally Posted by cnstman

can you burn them on the street? i have seen scuba burn all 4 at a strip however, so it can be done.

I haven't yet - I don't launch as often on the street as at the track, but the times I have, I still just hooked and went.

I was able to spin the back just a bit a few times by opening the diff and launching (at the track), but it was just the rears, and only for a second.

I don't doubt that it's possible. I'm wondering why. I suspect they are using less sticky tires or something.