[1loudsti]

are you sure everything is sealed up correctly? maybe you have a line thats leaking a little somewhere?

[gbonesti]

just wanted to say thanks to the op for a useful thread.

fyi - i sourced the replacement M16 bolt you'll want to use.
Google : Dorman Oil Drain Plug 090054. It's M16x1.5 with a 13mm underhead length.
I got mine from Rockauto and it cost $10 shipped.


But with that said, what exactly is the super heavy metal knob looking thing that we replace with the above bolt during this job? It looked like a fluid resevoir to me. I wonder if it's some sort of hydro damper because I now get a very mild vibration through the clutch peddle. The clutch works just fine (so far after several miles), but I can definitely feel a slight pulsing.
Has anybody done this job and left the knob/hydro damper intact?


g

[rod702]

i did this mod, and it seams like the clutch is engaging alot lower then usual probably 1" off the floor and hate it. is it necessary to remove the other damper on the m/c? on exedy website it only says to remove the cdv?

keep in mind i have brand new disc in my twin exedy and i also replaced slave and m/c with new components. and i also bleed the crap out of this as well.

[gbonesti]

sounds as though you didn't get all the air out during the bleed. The clutch definitely feels different after this mod (easier to depress the pedal for one), but mine engages in a similar place to what it did before. Maybe +/- 1/2" pedal height difference on engagement.

[Deuce Cam]

Originally Posted by rod702

i did this mod, and it seams like the clutch is engaging alot lower then usual probably 1" off the floor and hate it. is it necessary to remove the other damper on the m/c? on exedy website it only says to remove the cdv?

keep in mind i have brand new disc in my twin exedy and i also replaced slave and m/c with new components. and i also bleed the crap out of this as well.

I'm not an expert but I've always wondered why you need to remove the piece on the actual m/c as well.

[rod702]

can anybody elaborate on bench bleeding the clutch system? clutch seams firm, but engages close to the floor.

ds1 quoted that on twin exedy when disc are new, pedal engages closer to the floor, and when disc wears out in engages closer to the top. so do i just get use to my situation or do keep trying to make it better?

[gbonesti]

fwiw - this is what worked for me:

1.) After putting the entire system back together, place the slave into a bench vise such that it's bleed nipple is at the highest point and everything else hangs down below that.

2.) If you hang it from the vise the way I did, the master cylinder fluid resevoir will hang such that it's slightly tipped downward in a way that lets any liquid flow towards, and cover the outlet (just to be clear; what i call the outlet is the passage for fluid to move out into the clutch system, not the filler cap).

3.) prop the master up temporarily, remove the filler cap, and fill with brake fluid to the max line.

4.) now pump the master cylinder a few times just to agitate the fluid/bubbles. Be careful not to tip the master fluid resevoir so as to uncover the outlet since that would suck air in. I just watched it while pumping to always make sure the outlet had loads of fluid over it.

5.) now push the master all the way in and hold it in place. You could use a clamp or some rope like i did. whatever works. just make sure it's completely compressed and held in place.

6.) add some clear tube onto the bleed nipple and loosen until fluid/bubbles start flowing. it will flow because you've pressurized the system during step 5. Keep a careful eye on the master fluid resevoir to make sure there is always ample fluid over the outlet, otherwise you will need to start over. Refill it as needed.

7.) Close the nipple after it stops flowing freely.

8.) Repeat steps 4-7 as many times as you feel necessary to satisfy your OCD.

9.) boom done.

[949]

update, my clutch feels like crap. its either the new ordered mc is defective or there is some air still there.
the clutch will go down a little before i can feel any pressure of it pushing the actuator.
also after a few pumps or clutch angagements it will sink alittle. i would just need to pull it up by my foot and it kinda resets the height again.

is it air or defective?

[gbonesti]

could be either. i'd bench bleed it to make sure it's not trapped air.

[JZeezSTi]

Im goin to be doing this mod soon, so I ordered 5 of the bolts required, (5 minimum) So if anyone wants to buy one off me just PM me. I'll gladly help out.


Im also curious about the Knob at the bottom of the MC. Whats the purpose of it and why is it necessary to remove?