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Old 08-20-2004, 11:10 AM   #16
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he had the stock tires on when he did it, although they are quite worn. you should just try it on the street once, it is a rush!


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Old 08-20-2004, 11:13 AM   #17
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click on the "108mph" in scuba's sig, that is the vid. he does a launch/burnout before the actual run. that was with all 4 spinning. i was behind him in the lanes for that run.
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Old 08-23-2004, 07:31 AM   #18
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Scuba also has a different turbo on his car. He is making alot more power then stock which probably is why he can spin all 4.
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Old 08-23-2004, 10:28 AM   #19
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Just a note to those who are going to do my mod posted here. The bolt can be hard to find as a few of you have mailed me with your troubles. The bolt can be found at most oil change places (rapid oil and such)

It is a Nissan or Volvo drain plug size m16x1.5x10mm This is a perfect fit and will not require the additional copper washers I pictured in the write up. You will just need to use the OEM washer in 5th picture and skip the copper washers.

For those who cant find the proper bolt you can mail me at

moshaff at qwest dot com and I can get one for you.

Matt
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Old 08-31-2004, 08:08 AM   #20
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I just did this mod last night.

Thanks to Bikerboy who provided me the bolts...
(Probs to him who writes up this DIY)

The installation:
Pretty straight forward...
But you need to go underneath the car to remove the starter.

I also replaced the clutch line w/ stainless steel line and use ATE super blue.

Impressions:
1. Pedal feels a lot harder (heavier)
2. Precise feeling (when you press and depress)
3. Faster clutch engagement compared to stock (no delay)
4. Now I can shift better.
5. If you think brake lines make brakes feel better then it's the same thing.

Worth it to do?
Tell you the truth for the time that I spent and the result, it's not really worth it (cause you have to remove the starter)

But hey.. cheap mods for a better clutch feeling while having fun installing back the damn STi intercooler - Priceless.
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Old 09-04-2004, 06:34 PM   #21
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quote]
I'd be interested in doing this mod (hate the feel and jerkiness of the stock clutch), but I also don't want to snap any axles. As it is, I can drop the clutch at 6 grand and launch like crazy (1.67 60's). But I still never get any wheelspin...
[/quote]
6k drop? thought that was bad? do you hold it steady at 6k or jus rev it up to 6k?
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:58 AM   #22
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Nice write up
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:59 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerboy
Just a note to those who are going to do my mod posted here. The bolt can be hard to find as a few of you have mailed me with your troubles.
while doing the delete on my cutn edg project we stumbled on an alternate method that saves you the trouble of locating a new plug bolt and washers. i posted it here.

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/showthread.php?p=392427
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Old 11-09-2006, 02:18 PM   #24
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humm good info but wouldn't a omni clutch master or w/e give u the same effect if not better pedal feel? also i noticed a lot of time my exhuast is so loud i cant hear my tires spin. i think thats the other dude problem.. try running higher tire psi 41 in rear 42 in front.
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Old 11-09-2006, 03:14 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedrex05
humm good info but wouldn't a omni clutch master or w/e give u the same effect if not better pedal feel?
probably not and this is free.

Last edited by Neanderthal Racing : 11-09-2006 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 11-09-2006, 03:22 PM   #26
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It's funny how great minds think alike... I was just in this area the other day looking for stuff to remove ( ) and I was able to eliminate a few metal brackets to save a pound or so... and even eliminated a hose and a metal hose for the coolant going to the TB... when I saw all these "extra parts" for the clutch MC to SC... I thought... why can't we just replace all that with 1 line from the MC to the SC... does that thing bolted to the slave cylinder even do anything? It looks like a filter or something... and then I run across this thread... very cool!!! I'll be doing this soon.
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Old 11-09-2006, 03:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salaki
But you need to go underneath the car to remove the starter.
While planning my battery relocate, I removed the starter from the top... but then again, I have a LOT more room to work with.



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Old 11-09-2006, 05:30 PM   #28
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why no a/c lol i left the pump and such there just took the belt off. but each to his own. take off them bumper beam's if u wanna save weight.
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Old 11-09-2006, 05:32 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STIGUY88
While planning my battery relocate, I removed the starter from the top... but then again, I have a LOT more room to work with.




idk how good that is for the battety to sit on the side like that if i where u i'd fix that lol..
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Old 11-09-2006, 06:12 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedrex05
idk how good that is for the battety to sit on the side like that if i where u i'd fix that lol..
It's held in place by Velcro underneath.. it's took every corner I can throw at it... high G turns, 6g hard launches, hit your head against the roll bar stops... the battery doesn't move...

Oh yeah, and both bumper beams were removed long ago .

I started with JUST the AC idler (1lb) and shorter belt... then progressed to no belt for JUST winter (frees up hp lost to rotation of 2 lb pulley).... THEN the OUTER magnet pulley (1lb of static weight)... to removing the whole AC.... I have an idea for next summer... but that is a long time away... so right now I am enjoying the 20 lb weight reduction up front... feels awesome.


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