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First off I did not take any pictures when I pulled mine. I was quite furious at the fact that my stupidity led to having a badly dented pan. I will take some pictures soon to help display some of the bolts I am talking about, but will not have photos for all steps. This procedure should take approximately 5.5 to 7 hours for an experienced do-it-yourself mechanic from the begining of removal to the end of installation.


Tools required:
*3/8" wratchet and or breaker bar
*1/4" wratchet
*1/2" wratchet and or breaker bar (optional but highly reccomended)
*6 or 8" extension for each size wratchet
*universal joint for each size wratchet
*1/4" 10mm socket
*19mm socket
*14mm socket
*14mm wrench
*12mm socket
*12mm wrench
*flat screwdriver
*jack stands or wheel ramps (your choice)
*floor jack
*4x4 wood block approximately 10-14" long
*Torque wrench
*PB Blaster or equivalent


Parts required:
*Exhaust manifold to head gasket
*Exhaust manifold to up-pipe gasket
*Grey high temp oil resistant RTV silicone


Removal Procedure:
1) Remove the plastic under tray from your engine. This is secured using a few bolts and plastic push clips.

2) Remove the plastic under trays from either side of the car, the long ones.

3) Remove the jacking plate. This is held on by 2 12mm bolts with nuts in the front, 2 12mm bolts in the rear and 4 14mm nuts on the sides.

4) Remove your subframe. This is secured by a few 19mm bolts, 2 12mm bolts in front and 4 14mm bolts. I highly reccomend soaking these all in your PB blaster and waiting 5 minutes.

5) Remove the front oxygen sensor. The correct way is to unplug the clip, unhook it from the metal mount and then pull the wire through the fender-well so that the wire isn't being stretched and twisted as you unscrew it.

6) Remove your exhaust manifold. Go ahead and soak all of these bolts with PB blaster as well. They are all 14mm. There are 6 nuts that hold the manifolds to the block and 2 blots/nuts that hold the manifold to the downpipe.

7) Remove the swaybar mounts. These are secured using a 12mm bolt and a 12mm nut on each side. There is no need to remove the swaybar endlinks as it will just rotate out of the way.

8) Loosen the motor mount nuts. They are 14mm and are located directly above where the sway bar originally sat. It is important that you leave these nuts threaded slightly onto their studs.

9) DRAIN ALL OF THE OIL.

10) Remove all of the 10mm bolts that you can reach from the oil pan. I was able to get all of them out using my 1/4" ratchet, extension, and universal joint. This was very tricky, the 4 in the back are very difficult to get to. If you can't get them don't despair just read step 9.

11) If you were unable to remove the 4 rear bolts from the oil pan, place your 4x4 against the head on one side and using your jack lift the engine until it seems the car is beginning to lift too. This will give you just enough room to see the 2 rear bolts on that side. Remove them, lower the engine and repeat on the opposite side.

12) Once you get all of the bolts out it is time to break the pan loose from the block. Use caution here and do not scrape the mating surface on the block. I was able to place my flat screwdrive between the pan and one of the protrusions beside the oil pan and the oil filter, then I simply rotated the screwdriver pushing the pan to one side. This broke it loose enough I could slide my fingers under that side of the pan and pull down.

13) The pan will not come all of the way out. You have to remove the 2 10mm bolts from the oil pickup tube, and the 1 10mm bolt from the pickup tube brace. Now you can lower the oil pickup tube and pan together.

14) Remove the 10mm bolt from the dipstick tube.

Repair Procedure:
This may not be necessary.

If your pan is simply dented use a 1/2" extension or a large flat steel bar approximately 1/2" or larger in diameter and a hammer. You will need a piece of concrete such as a sidewalk or garage floor. If you're lucky you will have a steel workbench. Work from the center of the dent to the outside flattening as you go. Do not try to do too much at a time, you may have to repeat this procedure from the center of the dent out a few times.

If there are any cracks you can have the pan welded fairly cheaply. I, fortunately did not have cracks in my pan.

Clean, clean, clean and clean the pan. There will be paint flakes that you will have to get out. I used a lint-free rag.

Before:
(click the photos for full size versions)


After:


Reinstallation Procedure:

1) Clean all of the old gasket from the pan and block. Place a nice thick bead of your oil resistant RTV silicone all the way around the pan lip. I opted to use the cork gasket for the same year non-turbo application along with the RTV.

2) Place oil pickup tube into pan oriented somewhat correctly.

3) Slide oil pan and pickup tube into place. The pan will kind of just hang there with the pickup tube supporting it. Replace the 2 bolts that hold the pickup tube flange, and the bolt that holds the pickup tube brace. Torque these to: 7.2 Ft.-Lb Do not over tighten.

4) Carefully place the oil pan into place. Use caution to not scrape/rub the RTV away from where you put it. Press up firmly and begin replacing your bolts. Torque these to: 3.6 Ft-Lb Do not over tighten.

5) Here you will have to jack the engine up to replace the 4 rear bolts. Use the procedure from #9 of the removal procedure.

6) Re-install the dipstick tube. This is easier with 2 people and if you remove the dipstick. Ensure that both o-rings are in the correct locations. I will post a picture of the correct locations soon. Replace and tighten the bolt in the dipstick tube.

7) Re-install your exhaust manifold using your brand new gaskets. I highly reccomend using OEM subaru here as the ones from the parts store are kind of flimsy. Torque these to: 28.9 Ft-Lb

8) Install your front oxygen sensor.

9) Tighten your motor mount nuts. Torque these to: 61 Ft-Lb

10) Maneuver your swaybar back into place and re-install the mounts. Torque the bolts and nuts to: 18.1 Ft-Lb

11) Re-install your subframe. This is easiest if you partially tighten the rear most 14mm bolts and then slide the grooves of the subframe around these bolts. You can now lift the front and install the foreward most 12mm bolts. Now all you have to do is install the other 2 14mm bolts and all of the 19mm bolts. Please click photograph for proper torque values.


12) Re-install the jacking plate. Torque all fasteners to: 52 Ft-Lb

13) Re-install the rear side plastic covers. (optional)

14) After the RTV has had ample time to dry refill your engine oil. Follow the directions on your RTV, mine said to wait 24 hours for it to fully cure.

15) Start your engine and let it run for a few seconds. Check your oil level now as it will probably be around 1qt low. Start your engine again and let the car run for 10 to 15 minutes checking for leaks. It is easier to spot leaks if you have previously cleaned all of the oil that leaked out earlier in the procedures.

16) If you have no leaks re-install the front under cover.


Bask in your new ability to pull and re-install oil pans. I highly reccomend a cold brew right about now.

James