[amg destroyer]

I'm debating installing my TiC super shift set this weekend. The only thing that turns me off to doing it right away is the order in which to install things and the time it takes...

Does anyone have any advice on the order to install the parts included in the package? I have found all of the how-to's for the parts, so I don't need links to those, but just a basic overview of the order and time it takes.

Thanks

[Bishop]

i had limited time / access to a lift, my shift lever and new lever bushings is all i got in pretty stiff, hoping to do the rest of it sometime soon

[amg destroyer]

So do you guys think it would be easier to do the lever and the lever bushings one day, and the rest another, or just man up and do it all at once?

[V8Huntr]

You should just do it all at once. You're going to have your shifter assembly out anyway to change the bushings so you might as well take a few more minutes and pop the shift lever in too. It'll honestly only take you about 15 minutes to change out the lever anyway.

[WESTI]

yea i could probably do the lever in 1/2 an hour. The bushings under the car though are a pita!

[WC LATHE WERKS]

the lever is a pain if you flare out the roll pin with the punch. It wont want to go back in unless you pinch it. I ended up just making a new solid pin from stainless on the lathe with chamfers on the ends to slide it right in. I bet I could sell those as a product

[Bishop]

probably could, i ended up pinching mine, but probably better that than flaring it.... and i agree, aim to do it in one day... i only got my lever done and im kicking myself since its all gotta come back apart to finish the job

[boxtwo]

It is a fairly long day unless you take your time and do things right the first time. I tried to rush it and got ahead of myself...

I did the bushings under the car first. I lowered the tranny support brackets then decided to take them out completely (support tranny w/jack!) I also took out my midpipe to give me a little extra room (4 bolts and an O2 sensor, so it was easy enough.) Getting to the nuts/bolts underneath is a PITA, little room and less visibility. For the rear bushing, the block, use a 6-12" extension, makes it WORLDS easier to get teh right angle on the nuts...

Once everything underneath was loose, I went topside and pulled the shifter out. The c-clip holding it in is a PITA, take it out over a WHITE towel and try not to fling it across the car...not that I know from experience or anything

Putting it back in was pretty easy. Lots of grease and don't forget to lube the bushing faces (I didn't do this very well and had some binding when it got warm.)

Topside, the hardest part is tapping the roll pin back in. Start it from the back (towards the center console) so you can actually tap it in w/ something. I did it the other way at first, then pulled it out and reflected on the moment. Play with the torque of the shift lever bolt, I still have not gotten mine 100% yet.

Overall, pretty straightforward once you start working with it, it will make sense.

[amg destroyer]

Originally Posted by boxtwo

It is a fairly long day unless you take your time and do things right the first time. I tried to rush it and got ahead of myself...

I did the bushings under the car first. I lowered the tranny support brackets then decided to take them out completely (support tranny w/jack!) I also took out my midpipe to give me a little extra room (4 bolts and an O2 sensor, so it was easy enough.) Getting to the nuts/bolts underneath is a PITA, little room and less visibility. For the rear bushing, the block, use a 6-12" extension, makes it WORLDS easier to get teh right angle on the nuts...

Once everything underneath was loose, I went topside and pulled the shifter out. The c-clip holding it in is a PITA, take it out over a WHITE towel and try not to fling it across the car...not that I know from experience or anything

Putting it back in was pretty easy. Lots of grease and don't forget to lube the bushing faces (I didn't do this very well and had some binding when it got warm.)

Topside, the hardest part is tapping the roll pin back in. Start it from the back (towards the center console) so you can actually tap it in w/ something. I did it the other way at first, then pulled it out and reflected on the moment. Play with the torque of the shift lever bolt, I still have not gotten mine 100% yet.

Overall, pretty straightforward once you start working with it, it will make sense.

Thanks a ton for this info...very informative. I'm hoping that it will all become apparent once I'm under the car.

Also, did you use white lithium grease, and if not, what kind?

[V8Huntr]

I used a heavy moly grease, almost like axle grease. White lithium dries out and wears out pretty fast from my experience so I tend to stay away from it.

One thing that I will note about the pivot bolt tho, make sure you put blue locktite on the threads before you put it all back together. Mine worked itself loose over a few months and I kept having to tighten it back up. I put locktite on it 5 months ago and of course it's been in the same position ever since. Just drive around with 2 wrenches and tighten or loosen to your liking then once you have it where you want it the locktite will keep it there forever!

[boxtwo]

Originally Posted by amg destroyer

Thanks a ton for this info...very informative. I'm hoping that it will all become apparent once I'm under the car.

Also, did you use white lithium grease, and if not, what kind?

Anytime! I thought I posted up notes about the install, but I cannot find them... Another tip I though of... When you are underneath, there is the linkage knuckle. There are two bolts, one horizontal, one perpendicular. You'll need to have the tranny supported by the jack so you can wiggle it to the side to get the horizontal bolt out. I used a short pry bar. A couple more....
1. Don't be araid to pull the shift boot over the plastic base on the lever. It makes it w/o a problem.
2. Pry the Reverse lockout arm on the tranny with a screwdriver or something.
3. Make sure the cable for the Reverse lockout is away from the drive shaft. I used two cable ties, one as close to the rubber gasket as possible and another as the cable bends aroudn the shift linkage. (Both underneath the car)

I used hi-temp synthetic grease. And again, make sure you grease the bushing faces. (Is there a Smilie for kicking myself in the a$$?)

Good luck! If you need any help, PM me and I'll gladly give you my telnum if there is anything I can help with!

Originally Posted by V8Huntr

I used a heavy moly grease, almost like axle grease. White lithium dries out and wears out pretty fast from my experience so I tend to stay away from it.

One thing that I will note about the pivot bolt tho, make sure you put blue locktite on the threads before you put it all back together. Mine worked itself loose over a few months and I kept having to tighten it back up. I put locktite on it 5 months ago and of course it's been in the same position ever since. Just drive around with 2 wrenches and tighten or loosen to your liking then once you have it where you want it the locktite will keep it there forever!

+1 on not using white lithium

Loctite is a good idea, I didn't do that with mine and maybe that's why I adjust it every other week...

[FleaDog]

Ive had the kit for over a year and not put it in yet.
I got a quote for $90 to install...............

[amg destroyer]

Originally Posted by FleaDog

Ive had the kit for over a year and not put it in yet.
I got a quote for $90 to install...............

yea i've had mine for a while too. it seems like things keep coming up unexpectedly on the install days

i refuse to have shops install anything from now on, unless it is something so complicated a professional is needed. i just started using this philosophy and have already learned a TON about my car.

[dangk]

dont forget to wrap the reverse lockout cable with electric tape...or else it will rattle since it will be longer...bahh mine still rattles but i've learned to ignore it...too lazy to take everything apart again

[amg destroyer]

Originally Posted by dangk

dont forget to wrap the reverse lockout cable with electric tape...or else it will rattle since it will be longer...bahh mine still rattles but i've learned to ignore it...too lazy to take everything apart again

thanks for the tip. I bet heatshrink would work even better though...