Suspension - Steering: RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers with 500lbs/in F+R (9kg/mm) spring rate RCE sway bars Vorshlag camber plates Whiteline steering rack bushings KSR207 Whiteline front control arm bushing W0507 Whiteline rear trailing arm bushing W0568 Whiteline rear upper control arm bushings (camber adjustable) KCA326 Whiteline roll center kit KCA313 Kartboy sway bar end links
Drivetrain: Group N tranny mount Whiteline positive shift kit KDT910 Whiteline diff crossmember bushings KDT905 Whiteline rear diff bushing inserts KDT903 Kartboy rear subframe bushings Kartboy front and rear shifter bushing Kartboy pitch stop
Brakes: Stoptech SS brake lines Motul RBF 600 fluid
Engine: Cobb AP Cobb SF Intake and box Turbo XS quad tip cbe CNT catted downpipe Grimspeed turbo heat shield HOA boost controller Junior tuned at P&L Motorsports - 321hp 360ft/lbs at 21psi
Exterior: R205 badges SPT carbon fiber trunk trim Smoked license plate cover – no frame Lamin-X gunsmoke tail light overlays Menzerna polishes SI 1500 and SF 4500 to get rid of swirls Zaino wax products Z5 &, Z2 Bayson R CS front lip Rolled rear fenders Plasti-dip painted door trim (chrome delete) Rally Armor flaps – gray letters 20% tint De-badged HT Auto TS replica spoiler - review and how to (wingless)
Tires - Wheels: Enkei PF01 18x9.5+45 – black Dunlop Star Spec 265/35/18 Ichiba 5mm wheel spacers & studs on front - machined down to 2.5mm (to provide clearance for coilovers Muteki SR48 lug nuts – burning blue Winter = Pirelli 240 Sottozero 235/45/18 on factory Enkei rims
Interior: JPM alcantara shift boot JPM alcantara e brake boot
Chassis Setup - Alignment: Front camber DD = 1.8 currently Rear camber = 1.2 Front toe = zero Rear toe = zero Front height = 13.50” hub to fender Rear height = 13.40” hub to fender Front weights w/o driver = 966lbs left – 954lbs right Rear weights w/o driver = 703lbs left – 700lbs right Front shock setting for DD = 7 clicks rebound, 7 clicks compression (RCE recommended for DD) Rear shock setting for DD = 5 clicks rebound, 6 clicks compression (RCE recommended for DD) I tried the RCE recommended “ bumpy / wet track” on the street and it was crazy stiff. A few clicks made a world of difference. The DD settings are perfect!
I just read your journal, you are making some good numbers! I've had fast cars in the past (10.20 @135 drag car) and this time around, I wanted to work on the handling first.
I don't DD with the harness. I purchased it to hold me in the seat since it's much cheaper than new seats. I will get some use out of it in the future for autocross and track days.
The black wheels really surprised me...I've never been a fan of black wheels and was planning to paint them. I figured that I would spend $80 more for the black (vs silver) with the slight chance they would work w/o needing painted. I was astonished and glad since I avoided the $400ish cost to repaint them. Love the pics from Switzerland on your journal! Wish I lived there....nice car too.
I don't have a harness bar. The two rear points of the Schroth Rallye 4 harness mount to the rear seat belt mounting holes in the chassis. You unbolt the existing OEM rear seat belt mounts, place the Schroth mounts on top of the OEM mounts, and bolt through both items. The harness disconnects behind the front seat and the rear portion can be shoved in the crack between the rear seat and the rear seat back, it barely shows. The front portion can be looped over the seat and stored beside and under the seat so you can use the OEM belts for DD'ing.
A picture would be nice, I will work on that.
The group that hosts track days at Putnam Park, said this 4 point harness will be sufficient for their track days. I'm not sure if that's the case with other places.
I have some room left, as the picture below shows. I didn't measure it, but I would guess it's 3/8" to 1/2".
This is probably a good time to mention that I had to adjust the camber bolt to max out position (max positive camber) AND pull all of the clearance out of the lower mounting bolt to get the clearance between the perch and the tire. W/O pulling the clearance out, I had about .03" clearance between the perch and the tire...not enough in my book. I really don't like my current scenario since I don't have the abililty to adjust camber at the bolt. I have a set of 5mm wheel spacers to remedy the problem but they haven't been installed yet.
Back to the ride height....I'm going to elaborate a little. I found it hard to "eyeball" the center of the hub when using a tape measure to get an accurate measurement. I measured it that way, and then set up the miscellaneous hodge podge of squares and clamps (shown below) to get a more realistic number...which was different than my "eyeball" measurement.
I eventually ended up using my alignment gage to make it much easier and more accurate.
The top of the gage is 11.00" from the hub centerline. Add 11.00 to the number on the scale to get the hub to fender distance.
I adjusted the ride height about a million times to get it where it's at....re-aligned every time too. Very time consuming.
Don't laugh at the bungee cords, they work and don't scratch the wheel.
Wonderful looking car and choice parts. I am a huge fan of blue on black wheels and this looks just right
GL with whatever power mods you choose. I think finding a quality tune is half the battle in keeping your car alive and healthy. The other half is driving responsibly--let the car warm up, let it cool down, be smooth in your use of boost. I'm up to 45k and I hope I don't jinx myself but so far my car is still running smoothly and I've been stage 1 to 2.5+ for a good 37k miles.
DIY in my garage - 1 hour start to finish - super easy. Wipe down, mask, 4 coats with only 5 minutes between them, and remove tape immediately after last coat. Prior to the Plasti-dip, I had the vinyl overlays and from my experience, the Plasti-dip is much better. I was not able to get the vinyl to line up correctly and it looked like crap.
I'll be following this journal for sure. The car looked really good and reminded me that after the track season I need to do a solid detail. I put a video from my solo session on my journal. Thinking of getting back to Putnam 7 July.
This is the plasti-dip center caps. Just remember to take them out at the track. You'll melt them! Also are you on aluminum hub-centric rings? I picked mine up from tirerack.
I'll be following this journal for sure. The car looked really good and reminded me that after the track season I need to do a solid detail. I put a video from my solo session on my journal. Thinking of getting back to Putnam 7 July.
This is the plasti-dip center caps. Just remember to take them out at the track. You'll melt them! Also are you on aluminum hub-centric rings? I picked mine up from tirerack.
Thanks Rob, it was nice meeting you at Putnam. I'm due for a spring detail and would like to fix the "spider webs" in my paint...Subaru paint really sucks. I checked out the video...looked great....good job in your 4th session. Keep me updated on whether or not you make the trip back up here.
I have the hub centric rings, got them from Tire Rack too.
Ahh nice. Have a part number for the plasti dip or just get a black can from homedepot or lowes? Did you sand the chrome at all to insure the paint adheres?
Ahh nice. Have a part number for the plasti dip or just get a black can from homedepot or lowes? Did you sand the chrome at all to insure the paint adheres?
I got the Plasti-dip (aerosol spray) at Lowes. I wiped the chrome down with Iso alcohol or with acetone - can't remember which. I didn't sand anything. No flaking or peeling after 2 months - hope it stays that way.
Hey Rob - I have a Crawford AOS that needs to go on the car. I also got a used Cobb air box/intake today from Alex at JPM Coachworks.
I am very close to pulling the trigger on a dp and Q300 cbe so I can be at stage 2. Once I pick up another contract design job, I will place the order. Speaking of that, I spent 3 hours under this beauty today getting measurements.
I will get some pics for you...maybe tonight. Most of the info about the harness was in post #15. If there is anything more specific that you need, let me know.
A few people have asked about the Schroth Rallye 4 harness, here is some info and pictures that show my installation.
The two rear points of the 4 harness mount to the rear seat belt mounting holes in the chassis. You unbolt the existing OEM rear seat belt mounts, place the Schroth mounts on top of the OEM mounts, and bolt through both items. The left side lap belt mounts to the OEM seat belt mount and the right side lap belt mounts to the seat rail mounting bolt.
The harness disconnects behind the front seat and the rear portion can be shoved in the crack between the rear seat and the rear seat back, it barely shows. The front portion can be looped over the seat and stored beside and under the seat so you can use the OEM belts for DD'ing.
The group that hosts track days at Putnam Park, said this 4 point harness will be sufficient for their track days. I'm not sure if that's the case with other places.
I peformed my first ever paint correction last weekend and I am now scratch and swirl mark free! I was hesitant to do this due to the fear of messing up my paint, but it was a pretty easy process. Many thanks to Philip at Detailers Domain for providing the guidelines and the products to do this correctly.
Processes:
1. Wash and dry (including bug and tar remover). Einszett bug remover works unbelievably well.
2. Clay bar - this created a lot of marring as you can see in the pics below . I didn't use enough lubrication or I pressed to hard.
3. Wash and dry since the car sat overnight with the clay residue on it
4. Tape off trim
5. Polish with Menzerna SIP 1500 / Uber orange pad with Griots polisher set at 4.5
6. Polish with Menzerna 4500 / Uber blue pad with Griots polisher set at 4.5
7. 30% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) wipedown and inspection
8. Fix rock chips with Dr Color Chip process
9. Wax with Zaino Z5
10. Quick detail spray
11. Wax with Zaino Z2
12. Quick detail spray
Before Pics showing the standard Suby swirl marks
After clay bar - I marred the hell out of the clear coat.
After pics - indoor
I really didn't want to post a pic of myself on the net, but this was too cool to pass up.
After Pics - taken late afternoon which show off the blue color
After pics - taken at dusk which show off the purple color. I've read many comments about how the Zaino wax is phenomenal on metallic paints at dusk, and I have to agree.
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