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ex-rex's 2011 WRB STi Limited (RelentlessSTi)

GR Sedan: 
7K views 13 replies 2 participants last post by  Ricanracer21 
#1 · (Edited)
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#3 · (Edited)
Rocky Beginning

2012-05-05 - Rock jumps from highway and chips windshield.

2012-05-07 – Safelite repairs the chip. Called dealer to schedule the loaner vehicle and set an appointment to have all blemishes on the exterior (minus the front bumper) removed. Appointment set for 2012-05-14.

2012-05-12 - Windshield cracks completely. Now I have I have this:

Call to insurance company. Windshield replacement scheduled for 2012-05-14.

UPDATE1
UPDATE2
 
#4 · (Edited)
Creature Comfort (Must Have's) - Parts

2012-05-13 - Parts on order.
Lighting1 - Philips 9011/HIR1 High Beams-(modified) 9005, Sylvania SilverStar Ultra Fog Lights-9006, PIAA Xtreme White Reverse Lights -7440, Stealth Auto Front-1157 & Rear-7440 Parking Lights, (2) SWFLS-x30-BK series 30-LED Side Emitting Flexible Light Strip-Black Circuit, Cool White, Cool White Interior LED conversion (Map &Tag lights) & WFLB96 series 96-LED Waterproof Flexible Light Bar, (4) 12” LED SMD Interior Footwell Lights-Blue,

Exterior Part 1: WeatherTech® Side Window Deflectors



UPDATE
 
#5 · (Edited)
Rocky Beginning (Update 1)

2012-05-14 - UPDATE: Safelite replaced the glass. Looks better than when I rolled it off the dealer's lot. Dealer appointment TBA, pending weather improvements. Dealer doesn't want the paint to get messed up by the weather. I believe someone once told me that painted auto parts in damp or wet weather can cause the "orange peel" effect. Not sure if it is true, but I would rather not take my chances.

 
#6 · (Edited)
Rocky Beginning (Update 2)

2012-05-13 - Water has leaked into the car and completely soaked the drivers side floor. Call to Safelite, new glass (3rd one total now), to be installed 2012-05-14.

2011-05-14 - Glass installed, Safelite technician got all the water out, directed me on how to prevent mold, as well as how to test for leaks. We observed that the moon roof drains were working properly. The windshield did not have any obvious leak points, which concerns me. Anyway, I am praying that the new glass solves the leak issue.

2012-05-21 - Heavy down pours once again soaked the inside of my car. Knowing it isn't the windshield, I call the dealer for emergency service, as the rains are going to be coming for the next couple days. They sent me off in a courtesy rental...a 2012 Impreza (nonWRX). Drastic downgrade from the STi, lol. It does have paddle shifters, tho:lol:. Hopefully, they figure out the leak and get me my car back soon.

2012-05-23 - Dealer says they found bad seals in the fender cowl, firewall, and wheel liner areas. They had the dent guy come out while it was there. All I can say is WOW! This dude really knew what he was doing. All noticeable exterior dents have been removed. No sign they were ever there at all. Now I need to get some more rain so I can test out the fixed leaks.

LEAK UPDATE: Finally had enough road water to test the seals. Everything seems to be holding up well:tup:
 
#7 · (Edited)
Creature Comfort (Must Have's) - Tint

2012-05-26 - Tint Day has arrived. Big thanks to the guys at A-Plus Tinting in Bel Air, MD. The car is so much cooler on the inside now. No more burnt legs on the leather:)





 
#8 · (Edited)
Hardwired Valentine1

2012-05-30 - I decided that since the tint has cured that I would hardwire my V1. Using the Yellow/Green wire for power & the Black wire for negative (from the Homelink mirror harness), the V1 powers on/off with the car now. I have it mounted just under the tint band, but above my mirror, using the original suction mount it came with. It then fell off:lol:. I replaced the older cups with a fresh pair and now everything hangs as it should.

 
#9 · (Edited)
06: Creature Comfort (Must Have's) - Fog Lamp Bypass

2012-06-09 - Ok, there are a lot of confusing threads out there about how to do this, but none seemed "complete" or updated for the 11/12 models. From what I have noticed, all 2008-2012 models are all using the same colored wires (be sure to double check everything before using this write-up as a bible). For all intents and purposes, what you are about to read is a broken down DIY for independent fog lamps. It is simple as crap to do, once you understand it all.

Disclaimer: All pictures are for illustrative purposes only. Use proper connectors & insulators, or solder & insulators for best results. All actions performed are solely responsible to YOU. If cutting wires in your car scares you, you should not try this mod without help, or at all. Then again, if cutting wires in your car scares you, you might as well forget about modding all together, as it is no worse then installing any other major part incorrectly. Either way you have a 35k+ pile of junk if you break it.

Prerequisites:
1) Disconnect (-) battery terminal
2) Removal of the following panels is required to complete the following mod:

  • Side Panel near fuse box (door side)

  • Front Knee guard panel (Remove (2) 10mm screws on door side; tug at rest of panel to pop it off).

  • Black Metal Cross Member crossing over steering apparatus (Remove (2) 10mm screws).

  • Lower half of Steering Column Cover (one Philips Screw, rest pops apart).

Prologue: You are dealing with (2) different concepts. The first concept we will call the "switch to relay jumper". The purpose of this series is to allow manual on/off control of the fogs via the stalk switch, by bypassing the BIU (Body Integrated Unit). The BIU is what forbids the fogs to be on interdependently. The second concept is supplying an independent 12v power source to the correct wire on the back of the relay. This will charge the relay, faking the signal that has been bypassed by avoiding the BIU.

What the fog lamp can do after mod:
- Turn on independently of the headlamps when key is in the "On" position
- Fog Lamp indicator light will turn on only when both the Fogs and Lows are on, not just the Fogs
- You will now be able to have Hi's Low's and Fogs on all at once (a plus for some i guess)
- The independent fogs work with the DRL disabled.
In addition, they also work WITH the DRL's.

Stage 1 - The Switch-to-Relay Jumper
What to do:
1) Locate the harness going straight up into a white box at the base of the stalk.
2) Remove factory tape and expose all wires in the harness.

(image by others)
3) Locate the Violet/Yellow (VY) wire in the harness. Clip it with snips as far away from the harness as possible. Tape or insulate the white plug side of the VY wire; effectively stubbing it off. Add your connector of choice to the other side of cut wire (it runs along the relay harness away from the white plug).
4) Use a fresh piece of wire to connect to your connector of choice. This wire can be run down the steering column, and behind all the other wrapped wire clusters behind the dash. The end of this wire should hang freely near the relay panel.
5) Remove factory tape and expose all wires in the harness behind the relay panel.

(image by others)
6) On the back of the relay panel, locate the VY wire in the relay harness. Clip it with snips as far away from the harness as possible. Tape or insulate the wire harness side of the VY wire; effectively stubbing it off. Add your connector of choice to the other side of cut wire. Connect your newly ran wire from the steering column to this connector (relay panel side).

Stage 2 - Charge the Relay
What to do:
1) Before doing anything else, you must decide which 12v source suites your needs. For my intentions, I wanted to use ANY 12v ACC (accessory) power source. This way, as long as the power to the car is on beyond the accessory marker when turning the key, I would have power to energize the relay. I decided to go with a fuse tap for my 12v source (here is what they look like).
2) DO NOT PLUG THE FUSE TAP INTO THE FUSE BOX YET. Connect a fresh piece of wire to the fuse tap. Route wire so that it goes in between the fuse box and the relay panel, ending in the fog relay area.
3) On the back of the relay panel, locate the Black/Green (BG) wire in the relay harness. Clip it with snips as far away from the harness as possible. Tape or insulate the wire harness side of the BG wire; effectively stubbing it off. Add your connector of choice to the other side of cut wire. Connect your newly ran wire from the fuse tap to this connector (relay panel side).

(image by others)
4) Add 10 amp fuses to fuse holder and plug it into the slot in the fuse box.
Here is mine (sorry for the fuzz)

5) Reconnect battery. Test.
 
#14 ·
Re: 06: Creature Comfort (Must Have's) - Fog Lamp Bypass

2012-06-09 - Ok, there are a lot of confusing threads out there about how to do this, but none seemed "complete" or updated for the 11/12 models. From what I have noticed, all 2008-2012 models are all using the same colored wires (be sure to double check everything before using this write-up as a bible). For all intents and purposes, what you are about to read is a broken down DIY for independent fog lamps. It is simple as crap to do, once you understand it all.

Disclaimer: All pictures are for illustrative purposes only. Use proper connectors & insulators, or solder & insulators for best results. All actions performed are solely responsible to YOU. If cutting wires in your car scares you, you should not try this mod without help, or at all. Then again, if cutting wires in your car scares you, you might as well forget about modding all together, as it is no worse then installing any other major part incorrectly. Either way you have a 35k+ pile of junk if you break it.

Prerequisites:
1) Disconnect (-) battery terminal
2) Removal of the following panels is required to complete the following mod:

  • Side Panel near fuse box (door side)

  • Front Knee guard panel (Remove (2) 10mm screws on door side; tug at rest of panel to pop it off).

  • Black Metal Cross Member crossing over steering apparatus (Remove (2) 10mm screws).

  • Lower half of Steering Column Cover (one Philips Screw, rest pops apart).

Prologue: You are dealing with (2) different concepts. The first concept we will call the "switch to relay jumper". The purpose of this series is to allow manual on/off control of the fogs via the stalk switch, by bypassing the BIU (Body Integrated Unit). The BIU is what forbids the fogs to be on interdependently. The second concept is supplying an independent 12v power source to the correct wire on the back of the relay. This will charge the relay, faking the signal that has been bypassed by avoiding the BIU.


In addition, they also work WITH the DRL's.

Stage 1 - The Switch-to-Relay Jumper
What to do:
1) Locate the harness going straight up into a white box at the base of the stalk.
2) Remove factory tape and expose all wires in the harness.
Image Link

(image by others)
3) Locate the Violet/Yellow (VY) wire in the harness. Clip it with snips as far away from the harness as possible. Tape or insulate the white plug side of the VY wire; effectively stubbing it off. Add your connector of choice to the other side of cut wire (it runs along the relay harness away from the white plug).
4) Use a fresh piece of wire to connect to your connector of choice. This wire can be run down the steering column, and behind all the other wrapped wire clusters behind the dash. The end of this wire should hang freely near the relay panel.
5) Remove factory tape and expose all wires in the harness behind the relay panel.
Image Link

(image by others)
6) On the back of the relay panel, locate the VY wire in the relay harness. Clip it with snips as far away from the harness as possible. Tape or insulate the wire harness side of the VY wire; effectively stubbing it off. Add your connector of choice to the other side of cut wire. Connect your newly ran wire from the steering column to this connector (relay panel side).

Stage 2 - Charge the Relay
What to do:
1) Before doing anything else, you must decide which 12v source suites your needs. For my intentions, I wanted to use ANY 12v ACC (accessory) power source. This way, as long as the power to the car is on beyond the accessory marker when turning the key, I would have power to energize the relay. I decided to go with a fuse tap for my 12v source (here is what they look like).
2) DO NOT PLUG THE FUSE TAP INTO THE FUSE BOX YET. Connect a fresh piece of wire to the fuse tap. Route wire so that it goes in between the fuse box and the relay panel, ending in the fog relay area.
3) On the back of the relay panel, locate the Black/Green (BG) wire in the relay harness. Clip it with snips as far away from the harness as possible. Tape or insulate the wire harness side of the BG wire; effectively stubbing it off. Add your connector of choice to the other side of cut wire. Connect your newly ran wire from the fuse tap to this connector (relay panel side).
Image Link

(image by others)
4) Add 10 amp fuses to fuse holder and plug it into the slot in the fuse box.
Here is mine (sorry for the fuzz)
Image Link

5) Reconnect battery. Test.
Hey, sorry that this is brining up an old thread, but I can't seem to see the pictures from the thread and it's making it a little hard to follow the write up, any clue why?
 
#10 · (Edited)
06: Creature Comfort (Must Have's) - Map Courtesy Light Delete

2012-06-09 - I like the foot well illumination that came with the car when I bought it. It has a few hiccups. The first is that the light is not very intense. This is due to the fact the OEM brand kit is powering only 1 LED. Second, they are a Front ONLY kit. And lastly, they are RED. All of this would be livable if the hyper white LEDs in the map lights didn't come on at the same time. So, I dropped the map light controls down, found the Negative Ground System trigger, and severed the connection. In the pic below you can see I cut the (2) Black wires coming from the white harness, butted both ends, and wrapped them in heat shrink to control their final locations.

After that, I added butt connectors to the 2 Black wires from the White harness and taped them off. I will later use these grounds as triggers in other projects.

This mod does not delete manual operation of the map lights.
 
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