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Project Silverstreak: Time Attack #3 pics and vid!
Project Silverstreak: Time Attack #3 pics and vid!
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Old 08-04-14, 08:33 AM   #1
SubySal
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Default Project Silverstreak: Time Attack #3 pics and vid!

"...because anything worth doing is worth overdoing." -Mick Jagger

Table of Contents:
Interior
Suspension
Engine
Drivetrain
Chassis
Heat Managment
Brakes
Wheels/Tires
Cadmium Plating
Vendor Experience/Reviews
Tuning/Dyno Sheets
Perrin Gauge install
Polished Intercooler


Before...


After... (not much of a change on the outside lol)


This build was a dream come true for me. After years of research and planning I finally had the opportunity to build what I envisioned to be the perfect STI. I tried to maintain the car's balance and nature while kicking everything up a notch or two.

For me the calling came when I saw the headlights on an STI slowly power up at an autocross in 2004 one cool, dark, misty, morning. I have wanted one ever since. Finding a clean near stock 2006 took months because so many of these cars are poorly modded and that's not what I wanted. I found this STI in Salt Lake City. It had about 37,000, was in good shape, and the price was right so I flew out. It was stock with Tein springs. It had taken a light hit in the front right corner, but the carfax was clean. Assessing body damage is not my strong suit so a few things got by me that were either covered up or I just didnít/couldnít see when I initially inspected the car.

When I started taking it apart I noticed things. It was rougher than I had originally thought. It had been curbed on the right side. And it looked like the left side had been repainted. It also looked like the strut had been bottomed out on the left front which coned the strut tower a bit. I also noticed clues that it must have had a cat-back on it at one time. Oh and someone drilled a hole in the spare tire probably when installing a subwoofer box or something. So this is also kind of my rescue car. Anyway it all worked out though since I got a good straight car. Had I noticed all that stuff though I may not have bought it and could still be looking.

So then, the idea was to build this STI with the best parts I could find. From the beginning this car was built with an eye towards STU class autocross as my guide. A lot was done with the suspension, but it's a mild build power-wise which if fine with me. I feel it has enough power so I chose to work on power delivery. My focus was on consistency and response. I tried to carry this theme throughout the entire car. Since the direction was always going to be a dual-role street/STU car I also wanted to try and keep the car as quiet and comfortable as possible. This way I could enjoy it as much on the road as I did on course.


A great deal of research went into every part installed in the car as well as the car itself. I decided on an í06 because they seem to do the best in STU and I also think they are the best year released in the US. I wasnít crazy about the aesthetics at first, but the look has really grown on me. Itís very easy to detract from the performance of these cars and I wanted to avoid that. For me it was about taking what was good about the car and making it better. Due to my nature of always trying to do things the best way I can you may see some things done here not usually seen.

I naively though this would be a bolt-on affair, but boy was I wrong. Itís a good thing I know a great machinist, because I made many trips to his shop during the build. Sometimes just to modify an existing part, other times to make new parts. Iíve even designed and had built a bunch of special tools and fixtures. The most tedious part was all the bead-blasting that preceded the plating. It took months. Next time (if there is one) Iíll just pay to have it done.

The most difficult part turned out to be installing the Group N bushings in the rear suspension. It took the machine shop four hours to remove then install the rear subframe bushings. I did the rest myself with some help. I had to design then have made fixtures that would compress and push at the same time so the bushings wouldnít tear themselves apart. It took a couple revisions to get them right, but in the end they worked great! All part of the fun!!!

It took about 8 or 9 hours of blasting to clean each knuckle.


It was worth it though.


At it's most dissembled the car was basically a tub.


Some assembly required!
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Project Silverstreak: Time Attack #3 pics and vid!-d810_act_0931-plate-deleted-jpg  

Last edited by SubySal; 06-06-17 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 08-04-14, 08:33 AM   #2
SubySal
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Default Interior

SPA dual digital gauges- Oil temp/pressure, Boost/EGT (Subtle Solutions gauge pod), Lathewerks boot collar, reverse ring, hybrid shere shift knob, toggle for ECU test mode, Schroth quick fit harnesses for driver and passenger seat (modified to fit in an í06).

I guess I can be a little like Howard Hughes. I ended up buying three Subtle Solutions gauge pods before I got things just right. The gauges didnít fit so I tried to enlarge the holes myself. That didnít work too well. The second one I had done at the machine shop, but the placement for the buttons didnít work out. Once the pod was installed in the console one of the buttons were partially covered up. So the third time was a charm on that one. I also went through five shift knobs before I found one that felt right. Doh!

Perrin gauges have since replaced these SPA Techniques gauges. You can check them out here.


I did a red light conversion on the interior lights. The red/green mix bothered me.


...and another shot


I had to get some custom work done on the harnesses. For some reason in 2006 they changed the seat belt buckles. I had known about this so it was no big deal. Just a matter of shaving the sides of male ends the go into the buckles on the front seats. The surprise was the stub belt that mounts at the anchor point for the front seatbelt. I had the machine shop make a bushing and press it onto the original bolt so it would all work properly and it did.


Since the gauge pod took the place of the ashtray and 12v power plug I added a 5V USB power port to the inside of the center console. I shouldíve done a double recep, but hindsight is always 20/20.


I added a switch to put the ECU into test mode to make it easier to change between the STU and Stage 2 maps. This was the original configuration. The problem was I kept fiddling with the switch. You know Grimes switch cover... "Too close for missiles, switching to guns!"


I ended up going to a locking toggle. It works just as good, but I'm not tempted to mess with it.

Someone decided dynamat was a good idea. It took a while to get it all out.


After finding the dynamat I decided to strip the interior completely to make sure there were no other surprises. I found some change, a couple tuner style lugnuts and some kind of dried white powdery substance. Ah, the joys of used car ownership.


Since the interior was out I thought a speaker upgrade would be a good idea.

Last edited by SubySal; 01-16-17 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 08-04-14, 08:34 AM   #3
SubySal
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Default Suspension

AST 4100 coilovers, Hyperco springs, Vorschlag plates, Whiteline Swaybars, mounts, endlinks.

These went in pretty easy. I did have the machine shop add some graduations to the front camber plates though. Vorschlag makes some really nice stuff, but the graduations they put on the plates were useless if you were actually going to use them.

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Old 08-04-14, 08:34 AM   #4
SubySal
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Default Engine

Cobb Accessport, Constant torque clamps used throughout, Killer B header/oil pan/pick-up, AVO turbo-back (machined and coated). Perrin engine mounts, Kartboy pitch-stop. Redline 5W30 oil/ Subaru synthetic P/S fluid/ Subaru Super Coolant.
I also did all the maintenance items like belts, hoses, and the timing belt/pulleys while the engine was out. I had to replace much of the intake system too. At first I was going to go with and AMR hard inlet pipe and Cobb intake with airbox. They never got installed and will eventually get sold. The reason being is that you need TGV deletes for the AMR pipe to fit properly. The Cobb intake was another issue. I really wanted it for the turbo noise, but autocross is unique since you run the car hard then it sits. In this one specific circumstance the cold air system on the OE intake works better. So in the end I bought a new OE inlet pipe (old one was split) and a new lower filter box (old one was broken) then covered it all on gold foil. I also bought a new snorkel. At that point I was like why not. It was a similar story on an ATI Superdamper I bought. I found out they have to be press-fit and are really only an advantage when you increase HP or change out internals. Otherwise the OE damper does the job.

Things are very shiny here...


The oil temp and EGT sender were fairly easy to install, but...




...the oil pressure sender was a tight fit so I had to get creative and have a special fitting made with an angle of about 22ļ.




I wanted to keep the OE heatshield since I think it is more effective then aftermarket options. I tried to keep as much of it intact as possible.



Last edited by SubySal; 06-09-15 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 08-04-14, 08:34 AM   #5
SubySal
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Default Drivetrain

Group N tranny mount and crossmember bushings. OE short throw shifter with TiC, Kartboy bushings. Subaru Extra-S in the transmission. Subaru LSD oil in the rear diff.
This was pretty straightforward. Most of it was bolt-on. The car came with a Kartboy short-shifter which I didnít care for. I replaced it with a brand new OE short shifter. I reused the Cobb shifter bushings and the Kartboy rear bushing. I also replaced all the bushings in the new shifter with TiC and KB bushings. At first I got the wrong trunnion bushings and they did not fit at all. Once I got the right kit they went right in, but the steel sleeves were a little too tight. I had the machinist make some new ones that fit better then covered everything in Formula 5 grease. Itís very smooth and positive. What a joy to row through the gears!

Last edited by SubySal; 03-01-15 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 08-04-14, 08:35 AM   #6
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Default Chassis

Rear suspension bushings (including rear subframe) all replaced with Group N, Diff carrier Poly TiC bushings, Outrigger bushings replaced with Whiteline poly bushings. Front Suspension bushings were replaced with new OE bushings. Kartboy XL exhaust hangers. Whiteline Front tower brace, STI rear tower brace.
The group N bushings were the biggest challenge. Why are rubber parts so uncooperative?!
It took a couple months to get this sorted out. Most people just go poly, but I really wanted rubber and was told it would work better. Iím not sure how well the poly works, but yes group N bushings are awesome! The are tight and quiet. Iím glad I put in the extra effort ( Lots of extra effort!). I was told they could be installed by freezing the bushings and heating the lateral link to gain some tolerance. My hands donít work as well as they used to and that method is just too inconsistent for me. So I had some fixtures made. It took a while to get them right, but once they were they worked like a charm. After tearing up two bushings trying to install them the conventional way it was cake in comparison with the fixtures I had made. It took a while, but no problems, no tears. Just happy bushings. While I had everything apart I also had the aluminum parts anodized. You canít really change the appearance of an STU car much so this was my attempt at a little customization. In addition to the red lateral links and LCAís, I also anodized the Diff cover gunmetal.

The fixture I designed for pressing in the bushings...






Liberal amounts of Sil-glyde...


Then they went right in. Piece of cake.










The bushings in the knuckles were a different size so second larger fixture was also made once we knew the first one would work...



Last edited by SubySal; 01-13-15 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 08-04-14, 08:35 AM   #7
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Default Heat managment

DEI gold foil, Swaintech White lightening, 2000ļ ďturbineĒ coating.
I used a lot of gold foil on this car. In addition to the intake I also used it on the the firewall and part of the tunnel near the cat to keep heat out of the cabin. I completely covered the A/C drainhose and bracket so it wouldnít melt. Swain coating was used on the Killer B header. I really wanted inconel heat shields from turbosource.com, but didnít have the room. Turbine coating was used on the bellmouth, downpipe, and two intermediate pipes. Only the muffler stayed shiny. I also had my modified OE turbo heatshield coated. I wouldíve liked to have done the turbine housing too, but thatís not allowed in STU.









2000ļF "turbine coating"

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Old 08-04-14, 08:35 AM   #8
SubySal
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Default Brakes

Front- DBA 5000 two-piece rotors, Project Mu B-Force pads
Rear- Stoptech Cryo-stop rotors, Project Mu B-Forcepads
Goodridge stainless lines, Pentosin Super DOT 4 fluid

The brakes didn't really need much work for my purposes so I just tried to increase performance a bit and shave off a few pounds.



I actually got a little grief from some of my fellow autocrossers because the rear rotors didn't have the gas slots like the front rotors. There's just no pleasing some people...

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Old 08-04-14, 08:36 AM   #9
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Default Wheels/ Tires

Street- Team Dynamics/BFG Comp-2ís/ Autocross- Mach V Awesome/Hankook RS3 V2/ Winter- Rota Grids/ Hankook Ventus S1 Noble 2

I love the BFG Comp 2's, but I must say I'm not too happy with the Rivals. I may be trying some different race tires very soon.
update: Rivals have been replaced with Hankook RS3 V2's which I really like.




Last edited by SubySal; 01-13-15 at 05:52 PM. Reason: update...
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Old 08-04-14, 08:36 AM   #10
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Default Cadmium Plating

All hardware and many brackets plated in aerospace grade cadmium.
This was a long process. Some of it went quick, but the knuckles for example took forever. It was worth it though. They look great even though itís only me that really sees them.

I suspect the carís life in Salt Lake is what did a number on all the hardware. The body had only very minor rust which I easily fixed, but cadmium being a sacrificial metal had been eaten off much of the hardware and brackets. I guess I couldíve just got new hardware, but I wanted to plate some parts (the knuckles for example) that didnít come plated plus I was rebuilding a tire machine too and I had a bunch of itís parts plated at the same time. In the end it was about 250lbs of parts, brackets and hardware.

I ended up replacing a lot of other OE parts too. All the plastic covers under the car as the old ones were tore up. I also replaced the front and rear subframes for fear they may have been bent from the curb hit. There were many other small parts that were either damaged or worn that got replaced too. Lots of parts I wouldn't have even thought of. Plus I also had to get a new spare tire.







It took me two days to get all the bolts sorted out and figure out where they went.


Yea... I plated just about everything whether it needed it or not.

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