[nw-TI]

I had a nearly identical problem, took it to the dealer and found that injectors 3/4 were clogged. They told me its a common problem and to run a good bottle of octane booster through it every once and awhile.

[jungo75]

Octane booster? Please, explain.

[NewShockerGuy]

wow I am glad I found this thread!

I posted this back about a year ago.

Ditto on the idle being rough. However I get a p0394 4th cylinder missfire detect..

I took it to my dealer and they determined that it's not missfiring. I cleaned my MAF checked fittings..etc.

In the winter I have NO problems or if it's cold.. Just as said earlier in the thread when it gets warmer is when it becomes more obvious.

I have a stg2 complete catless setup and the car runs great and strong through out the power band as well...etc.

I have no done a compression test because I don't know where to go for it or how much it would run.

My car doesn't stall or anything like that. But fluctuates between the RPMS when it's idleing.

I KNOW I am running rich because when I start the car I do smell fuel/oil.

To the question of looking at the exhaust gas color when the car starts up what does it mea: IE white smoke, blue smoke, black..etc.

Definitely want to get more information on what people think.


Thanks,
-Nigel

[SCSTI]

Crazy idle fixed for good hopefully ! Well I had tried the octane booster/cleaner which did not work...don't waste your money ! The dealer told me it could be a number of things which none would be covered under warranty because I have modifications(FMIC /Intake/exhaust) That is it for mods and of course he was trying to say those were the problems at first. Anyway then he said it could be an O2 sensor...ok I paid them to put in a new one...nope not it...$250.00 wasted. Then he said it had to be a tuning issue and sent me to a performance shop. Well I had the performance shop put in new plugs(NGK) which was their guess and they ran a compression/leak test and checked the entire engine compartment for problems....result no leaks...no visible problems. Another $250.00 gone although I did need new plugs according to them. Now I had a new high flow fuel pump installed at the performance shop which was the dealers second guess anyway and I had them tune with an ecutek reflash both for $400.00. This guy is a very experienced tuner and he was able to up the idle along with giving me some more ponies. It runs good and he said if the ecu doesn't give me any more problems he can custom tune for even more power. So the idle problem is fixed for a total of $900.00. That is alot and it doesn't include the rental car fees !! Just for info...an sti ecu can be had for around $!50.00 so it would be cheaper to go there first...of course no one is ever certain on the problem...not even the dealers !!

[NewShockerGuy]

So I can tell my car is going to throw a CEL soon... it's about 60+ degrees outside now and when my car warms up it starts to making a popping noise...

pop, pop....pop,pop, pop..etc.

This only happens when it starts to get warm outside and it's WARM or HOT... in cold weather or cool weather the car is fine...

What could be causing this?

It's annoying to constantly reset and reflash my ECU once a week because I'm throwing a false code...

-Nigel

[NewShockerGuy]

Welp I got my first CEL of spring today.

Turned the car on like I always do and let it warm up 4-5 minutes while I make my lunch for work... Get in the car and see the nice CEL with blinking cruise...

I reset it with my accessport. Reflashed with stage2 real time map since my basemap is a stage 2 as well...

The car pulls hard all the way through the gears... so honestly I don't know wtf I keep getting this stupid p0304. It's getting to the point where if I have to do this everyweek like last spring/summer I am going to sell the damn thing.

Does anyone have this issue... again it ONLY happens when it's warm outside... when it's BUTT cold or snowing, etc. it's perfectly fine and doesn't make the pop, poppop, pop.....pop, pop noise.

I guess when I get the car inspected here later next month I will ask them to do a compression test on it.

-Nigel

[darkcrystal05]

I had a similar idle issue and it turned out to be a faulty/clogged fuel injector. Idle just was kinda rough/lumpy for awhille then I got some random misfire code in cylinder 2. Went through a bunch of diagnosis steps. Ended up swapping injectors in cylinder 1 and 2. The code came back but this time in cylinder 1. Bingo!! Replaced injector and all was well.

[BoostJunkie]

Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy

Welp I got my first CEL of spring today.

Turned the car on like I always do and let it warm up 4-5 minutes while I make my lunch for work... Get in the car and see the nice CEL with blinking cruise...

I reset it with my accessport. Reflashed with stage2 real time map since my basemap is a stage 2 as well...

The car pulls hard all the way through the gears... so honestly I don't know wtf I keep getting this stupid p0304. It's getting to the point where if I have to do this everyweek like last spring/summer I am going to sell the damn thing.

Does anyone have this issue... again it ONLY happens when it's warm outside... when it's BUTT cold or snowing, etc. it's perfectly fine and doesn't make the pop, poppop, pop.....pop, pop noise.

I guess when I get the car inspected here later next month I will ask them to do a compression test on it.

-Nigel

This sounds like it could be a front O2 sensor issue. It only functions to calibrate AFR once the car is warmed up. So if it's running fine when it's cold but rich once it warms up, that would be my guess. You might try replacing it and see what happens.

[NewShockerGuy]

Originally Posted by BoostJunkie

This sounds like it could be a front O2 sensor issue. It only functions to calibrate AFR once the car is warmed up. So if it's running fine when it's cold but rich once it warms up, that would be my guess. You might try replacing it and see what happens.

Dan,

Is this hard to do and or how much does it cost to get it?

I am willing to try stuff as long as it's not $1000s of dollars..lol

Thanks,
-Nigel

[1loudsti]

i have the SAME problem....xpt tuned....mine runs like ASS when its warm/hot out, sometimes throws a system too lean bank one code
the idle hops around between 850 and 500 popping and sputtering like everyone else said

i did a vacuum leak test a boost leak test turned the idle up on my map all of it did nothing, i also changed spark plugs that didnt do it.....im gunna go pick up an o2 sensor in a couple minutes and try that....im stumped here! its only been happening for 3 days and its consuming me to the point of killing someone!

[1loudsti]

mine is FIXED!!!! it was my cold air intake that was causing all the problems....i went back to the aem short ram that i had and it runs B-E-A-utiful now!

[STi&CBR]

Well this thread seems to have a lot of info in it, so I figured I'd throw another scenario into the mix. I have the same mods as talked about above: PDX etune, CAI, FMIC, CBE, Grounding kit... And I notice the inconsistent idle in warmer weather as well. I wouldn't say that it is popping though... Anyway, warmer weather = air conditioner on; and this is when I notice the idle problems. It is much better with the air off. So, it appears that higher current draw causes my problem. Bad alternator? What do you guys think?

[wrkx]

I have an 05' with the same exact problem as the op. Checked everything out...Nothing loose except I noticed the intercooler to throttle body coupler was quite aways from the mark on the tb (atleast 1/4in). Anyways I adjusted the Intercooler mountes and tb to ic hose clamps and the problem seemed to go away. Then after a few weeks it came back. In desperation I replaced the intercooler to throttle body coupler with a silicone piece and used t-bolt hose clamps. Now my car makes a screeching eagle sound around 3500 and up... Must have a leak...although I do have to say it idles better

[wrkx]

Originally Posted by STi&CBR

Well this thread seems to have a lot of info in it, so I figured I'd throw another scenario into the mix. I have the same mods as talked about above: PDX etune, CAI, FMIC, CBE, Grounding kit... And I notice the inconsistent idle in warmer weather as well. I wouldn't say that it is popping though... Anyway, warmer weather = air conditioner on; and this is when I notice the idle problems. It is much better with the air off. So, it appears that higher current draw causes my problem. Bad alternator? What do you guys think?

Mine idles like crap with the ac on also...I forgot to mention my mods in my previous post. Cobb Stage 2 tune 91oct, Perrin header, Helix catted downpipe, HKS carbon-ti.