[jays05]

Originally Posted by jgheels2003

It really won't make anymore power if the block is built all things being equal. I would advise you to stay as far away from the current Subaru aftermarket blocks for as long as you can. They are a horror show at best right now.

Agreed, with the same compression, if anything the built shortblock will make a bit less power.



If I could do it over again I would have replaced my stock short block with another stock short block. Hell I could have bought a couple used longblocks for the amount of money I have under the hood of my STI.

[Flycaster]

Originally Posted by jays05

If I could do it over again I would have replaced my stock short block with another stock short block. Hell I could have bought a couple used longblocks for the amount of money I have under the hood of my STI.

I understand what you and Jgheels are saying, but I have a different take. First, just rebuild the damn thing - get some new forged pistons and bearings, clean it up, reassemble, good to go. You can get it done for @ $900, and it'll be as good as anything you can buy. Second, if you don't have access to a good assembler/machine shop, just buy a new OEM shortblock and throw a set of forged slugs in it - done.

Either way, the key is to set the P-SW clearances to a reasonable limit. The .003-.0045" that most aftermarket builders are using is totally useless for the average guy around here. IOW, all the extra clearance does is make it an oil burner, and it robs power unless the block is really, really hot - as in extended "track use" hot. And how many of these engines will ever see that type of duty? Damn few.

Now, for the very non-average joe who is building a motor for dedicated track use? I'd suggest either a motor from Ron, or Cosworth, period. With a proper tune, those motors have proven to be bullet-proof. Will they outlast a stock motor if used in a street application? I dunno...but that isn't the point.

[burnin4]

I'm staying out of this one, haha!

[Flycaster]

As well you should, with a 500+ hp american V-8 powering your current car.

Still liking that thing?

[STimo]

I've had great luck with the stock motor and so have many others at even higher hp levels than me.. All u people out there considering a built block, look at what these people are saying that have gone thru building an expensive motor, keep ur stocker till she let's go! N hell mine has lasted so long when it finally does go im just gonna replace it, maybe with forged pistons but other than that that's it..

[burnin4]

Originally Posted by Flycaster

As well you should, with a 500+ hp american V-8 powering your current car.

Still liking that thing?

tickled pink! completely beside of myself, teh most amazing car ev4r!!!!!!!!!!!

[Flycaster]

Originally Posted by burnin4

tickled pink!

Thought so.

[Dub Kllr]

Originally Posted by jgheels2003

A good part of the reason I sold my STi was because I didn't wanna go down the built block road. I definately don't think they make anymore power if nothing else is done to the heads/cam obviously so you are only really doing it to support silly power, or just longevity.

At the time right before I had a notion about selling the STi it seemed like every built block available that I "thought" or was "told" was the one to get was popping on everyone I corresponded with. Boom, boom, boom. These folks all had access to very good tuners and were not idiots when it came to parts and setups. Some weren't even making anymore power than I was. Obviously that isn't what should happen but thats how it was. It probably didn't help that a good friend of mine had his first bulit motor pop on him after the stocker held up 5 times longer, and then a supposedly bulletproof, mansion mortgage level block did the same thing with less power.

you can't judge aftermarket motor builds just from a couple of experiences, i've learned that. it all depends on the builder and the parts you select. everyone's got their own opnions on what really works and everyone swears by those opinions, still doesn't mean they're true. i've seen a lot of positive things come out of shops like ARfab and crawford for example. serious power with complete reliability is a fallacy however, from the time the first modification goes on the car, reliability decreases. it's just something we all deal with. tuning is also a pretty essential piece to this process as well. so, in short, there are lot of factors to account for in the building of a motor.

[haroman311]

u cant say that because you have seen a couple subaru engine blown, that it is some how inferior. ive seen hondas blow on the dynos, ive seen a old shelby cobra blow on dyno. i mean if its gonna happen, its gonna happen. you are well aware that with building aftermarket engines and pushign things to their limits.. things might break.

[calisti]

I had just spun a rod bearing this past Thursday.

Option 1: Buy a brand new shortblock from the dealer, drop in forged Weisco pistons and maybe Manley Turbo Tuff rods. Upgrade main and rod bearings to Cosworth's tri-metal bearings.
*Upgrade to Cosworth oil pump
*ARP head studs
*Cosworth or Cometic head gaskets

Option 2:
Have Darton sleeve and assemble a used shortblock with the same components as above

Option 3:
Find used short block and have Benson Auto Machine in Santa Ana, CA install ductile iron sleeves, and assemble with same components as above

Option 4:
Buy an assembled closed deck shortblock with h-beam rods and JE forged pistons from either Harmon Motive or Outfront motorsports (builds high power sandrail motors here in Socal)

Option 5: Buy Cosworth 2.5 lit shortblock

What kind of damage can a spun bearing do to the block casing, crank, and rods?
Is it bad to install ductile iron sleeves on an ej257?
Anyone use a closed deck block?

[xrocket21]

at 425 WHP my stock shortblock let go. I thought I would be safe, but it lasted about 2 weeks. I am going with a built shortblock, I dont want to worry about it.