[sysfailur]

It's really just all about how hard you press the brake/clutch in. Straight from the manual: FULLY DEPRESS both and it enables. Mine works exactly as that is stated. If yours doesn't you might wanna contact Subaru and complain.

[ake109]

Originally Posted by sysfailur

It's really just all about how hard you press the brake/clutch in. Straight from the manual: FULLY DEPRESS both and it enables. Mine works exactly as that is stated. If yours doesn't you might wanna contact Subaru and complain.

The Euro Spec one I test-drove (specifically drove it to an incline to test this dumb feature to see if I can live with it) WILL activate even if the clutch is untouched.

i.e. Drive it to a slope. Put gear to neutral. Let it roll a bit (forward or backwards does not matter). Step on the brakes. Don't touch the clutch. Release brakes. Damn car holds the brakes.

[Rexspeedworthy]

Originally Posted by sysfailur

It's really just all about how hard you press the brake/clutch in. Straight from the manual: FULLY DEPRESS both and it enables. Mine works exactly as that is stated. If yours doesn't you might wanna contact Subaru and complain.

I've noticed now that I'm at about 10k miles, the clutch has worn a bit, and now, it will release right about where the clutch catches. When it was new, the assist-brake would release slightly AFTER the clutch engaged, causing the occasional stall. Maybe that is why there are mixed emotions about it? .

I don't think this hill assist system is only time released. If I'm on a hill, and have gear selector in neutral, clutch pushed in, and hold, then release brake, the car will stay for the 2 sec, then roll back. BUT, if I do the same as above, and release the clutch immediately, it will roll back as soon as the clutch reaches a certain point, even if it's only been .5 seconds. Now that they are synced up, it's not as prone to stall.

I'm sure as the clutch wears even more over time, at some point, the assist brake will begin to release b4 clutch engagement.

[cky3396]

has not been a problem for me. ill just wait for the hill assist to disable, when the car rolls im off the clutch and on the gas. no big deal, no stalling, no clutch abuse

[ScottSwan]

Hi ya!

I don't even own an STI, just a '08 WRX, but I'm jumping in on the ISA elimination quest! This flipping "feature" is killing me, and my clutch because I know how to drive a stick. I'm on a mission to get control of my car!

Mine seems to be exceptionally sensitive and the hill hold - don't go - stall thing is happening in many spots that aren't really 5° inclines. Also seems to react if I hit bumps when stopping, which is not uncommon pretty much everywhere in lower MI lately.

I've read up on everything to date and I've been experimenting with something else to kill the hill hold yet leave everything else in tact.
The clutch pedal has two NO switches, on for full down and one for full up.
The full up switch will disengage the hill hold, yay! But you can't just unplug it and jumper the plug because a hill light will come on and throttle response gets all weirded out.

I'm thinking of doing a little logic flip flop and making up a circuit to detect when the clutch down switch opens and then close the clutch up switch just for a second so it disables the hill hold right away.

I'm not sure if this will work and I haven't figured out how to do the logic yet. What I need is some schematics so I can see if they switch to ground and where they switch to so I don't inadvertantly fry something.

Still need to experiment and get some more info...

-Scott

[Rexspeedworthy]

Originally Posted by ScottSwan

Hi ya!

I don't even own an STI, just a '08 WRX, but I'm jumping in on the ISA elimination quest! This flipping "feature" is killing me, and my clutch because I know how to drive a stick. I'm on a mission to get control of my car!

Mine seems to be exceptionally sensitive and the hill hold - don't go - stall thing is happening in many spots that aren't really 5° inclines. Also seems to react if I hit bumps when stopping, which is not uncommon pretty much everywhere in lower MI lately.

I've read up on everything to date and I've been experimenting with something else to kill the hill hold yet leave everything else in tact.
The clutch pedal has two NO switches, on for full down and one for full up.
The full up switch will disengage the hill hold, yay! But you can't just unplug it and jumper the plug because a hill light will come on and throttle response gets all weirded out.

I'm thinking of doing a little logic flip flop and making up a circuit to detect when the clutch down switch opens and then close the clutch up switch just for a second so it disables the hill hold right away.

I'm not sure if this will work and I haven't figured out how to do the logic yet. What I need is some schematics so I can see if they switch to ground and where they switch to so I don't inadvertantly fry something.

Still need to experiment and get some more info...

-Scott

Just run a couple wires off your e-brake switch, that will mimic e-brake when clutch is ALL the way down. That's what I did...for a while, but it seems to work better now that the clutch has worn a bit. It doesn't grab like it used to, or I've gotten used to it.

[ScottSwan]

Originally Posted by Rexspeedworthy

Just run a couple wires off your e-brake switch, that will mimic e-brake when clutch is ALL the way down. That's what I did...for a while, but it seems to work better now that the clutch has worn a bit. It doesn't grab like it used to, or I've gotten used to it.

Yes that does seem to be the best/easiest way to do this. The parking brake switch is just a single wire shorted to ground when the brake is on. I would like to find a threaded NO switch to mount on the clutch pedal down stop so I can have some adjustment. I never actually hit that stop so there should be some play room there. When I'm on a hill I usually let up the clutch at the same time I let off the break so I would like the switch to stay on with a little bit of clutch travel to make sure the hill tampon dispenser doesn't ever work.

Thanks
-Scott

[Turninconcepts.com]

Originally Posted by Rexspeedworthy

Just run a couple wires off your e-brake switch, that will mimic e-brake when clutch is ALL the way down. That's what I did...for a while, but it seems to work better now that the clutch has worn a bit. It doesn't grab like it used to, or I've gotten used to it.

I wouldn't recommend simulating an always on hand brake condition in the STI. When the hand brake is applied the center diff goes to open and the DCCD system turns off or rather stops trying to control the center diff. This means the manual settings do nothing as well as the auto settings.

I too feel that it has gotten easier to live with. I have probably just gotten used to it. I have about 21000 on the car now, the last 3000 with a stiffer clutch and I no longer have issues with it.

Tony

[Rexspeedworthy]

Originally Posted by Turninconcepts.com

I wouldn't recommend simulating an always on hand brake condition in the STI. When the hand brake is applied the center diff goes to open and the DCCD system turns off or rather stops trying to control the center diff. This means the manual settings do nothing as well as the auto settings.

I too feel that it has gotten easier to live with. I have probably just gotten used to it. I have about 21000 on the car now, the last 3000 with a stiffer clutch and I no longer have issues with it.

Tony

It isn't always on. Only when you press the clutch ALL the way to the floor. Under normal driving, I NEVER get it all the way to the floor, you have to try and make it hit the floor, unless you're driving like granny all close to the wheel and all. That is how I rigged it. just ran wires from the e-brake switch to the clutch pedal. When you push the clutch all the way to the floor, it thinks you are pulling the e-brake. As soon as you let up 1/16th of an inch, the e-brake light goes back off.

[Rexspeedworthy]

Originally Posted by ScottSwan

Yes that does seem to be the best/easiest way to do this. The parking brake switch is just a single wire shorted to ground when the brake is on. I would like to find a threaded NO switch to mount on the clutch pedal down stop so I can have some adjustment. I never actually hit that stop so there should be some play room there. When I'm on a hill I usually let up the clutch at the same time I let off the break so I would like the switch to stay on with a little bit of clutch travel to make sure the hill tampon dispenser doesn't ever work.

Thanks
-Scott

yes, it seems like no matter what you do, there is a "learning curve"..probably best to just get used to it. It gets me worst in reverse when trying to back up-hill.

[ScottSwan]

Originally Posted by Rexspeedworthy

yes, it seems like no matter what you do, there is a "learning curve"..probably best to just get used to it. It gets me worst in reverse when trying to back up-hill.

Can't be good for the clutch plates.

I asked SoA specifically: "Do you have any idea why they decided to time it? Why not use the clutch down switch to detect and release the brakes?"

And their response was: "Information as to why it was designed as it is is not available. It was designed for easier start-off when starting from a stopped position on a hill. (Yes, I know that you know what it is supposed to do.)
Thank you again for your time and feedback. Your feedback will be reviewed, tracked and considered by the Product Planning Department.
Sincerely,

Subaru of America, Inc.
Customer/Dealer Services Department"



My dealer laughed at me when I ask if it could be turned off.

So Friday I'ma wiring up a switch to the clutch pedal.

-Scott

[Rexspeedworthy]

Originally Posted by ScottSwan

Can't be good for the clutch plates.

I asked SoA specifically: "Do you have any idea why they decided to time it? Why not use the clutch down switch to detect and release the brakes?"

And their response was: "Information as to why it was designed as it is is not available. It was designed for easier start-off when starting from a stopped position on a hill. (Yes, I know that you know what it is supposed to do.)
Thank you again for your time and feedback. Your feedback will be reviewed, tracked and considered by the Product Planning Department.
Sincerely,

Subaru of America, Inc.
Customer/Dealer Services Department"



My dealer laughed at me when I ask if it could be turned off.

So Friday I'ma wiring up a switch to the clutch pedal.

-Scott

Like TIC said, make sure the e-brake isn't constantly on. I had to fab the tube of a ball-point pen to keep the switch in the up position, without putting the e-brake in the first click. Am I making sense?? lol you sound intelligent enough to figure it out anyway.

BTW, my '85 Brat has a hill-holder that releases the brakes based on clutch pedal position, and it can be adjusted. Better technology in 1985 ftw

[ScottSwan]

Originally Posted by Rexspeedworthy

Like TIC said, make sure the e-brake isn't constantly on. I had to fab the tube of a ball-point pen to keep the switch in the up position, without putting the e-brake in the first click. Am I making sense?? lol you sound intelligent enough to figure it out anyway.

BTW, my '85 Brat has a hill-holder that releases the brakes based on clutch pedal position, and it can be adjusted. Better technology in 1985 ftw

That's exactly what I'm shooting for. I'm going to splice a 20ga wire to the wire going to the handbrake switch (the other side of that switch goes to metal ground). Install a micro switch with a long lever somewhere so the clutch pedal in the down position actuates the switch. Solder the 20ga wire to the NO (normally open) contact on the switch, solder another wire on the common tab on the switch and terminate that wire on a metal ground under the dash.

When the clutch is down, the car thinks that the e-brake is on, disabling the hill holder. When I take off the breaks and let out the clutch, the hill - clutch killer will never come on.

Placement of the switch is the only tricky part, but I have a drawer full of micro switches so I should be able to figure something out.

-Scott

[Rexspeedworthy]

Originally Posted by ScottSwan

That's exactly what I'm shooting for. I'm going to splice a 20ga wire to the wire going to the handbrake switch (the other side of that switch goes to metal ground). Install a micro switch with a long lever somewhere so the clutch pedal in the down position actuates the switch. Solder the 20ga wire to the NO (normally open) contact on the switch, solder another wire on the common tab on the switch and terminate that wire on a metal ground under the dash.

When the clutch is down, the car thinks that the e-brake is on, disabling the hill holder. When I take off the breaks and let out the clutch, the hill - clutch killer will never come on.

Placement of the switch is the only tricky part, but I have a drawer full of micro switches so I should be able to figure something out.

-Scott

I put a big ball of solder on one wire and zip tied it to the clutch pedal, and then soldered a peice of metal to the other wire, and attached it to the floor.

ALso remember to disconnect your Daytime Running Lights, or everytime you activate you switch, folks'll think you flashing your lights at them

Seatbelt chime is next, anyone figure that one out?

[ScottSwan]

Originally Posted by Rexspeedworthy

I put a big ball of solder on one wire and zip tied it to the clutch pedal, and then soldered a peice of metal to the other wire, and attached it to the floor.

ALso remember to disconnect your Daytime Running Lights, or everytime you activate you switch, folks'll think you flashing your lights at them

Seatbelt chime is next, anyone figure that one out?

Damn, the lights... I forgot about those.
How do you kill those?
"During DRL operation only the front lights are illuminated. The DRL resistor is located under the right side head light."
Snip at the resistor?

Remember those VCR's that when you pop in a tape they automatically start playing? Yeah I used to open them up and snip the end of tape sensor wire to make that go away too!

Engineering shall not decide what I want to do...