[BoostJunkie]

Do I need to remove the pitch stop mount in order to do this install? I have the new motor mounts on but I can't move the engine enough to get the studs to line up with the x-member.

[mug23]

I installed the mounts and I took the pitch mounts off so I can jack up the motor.

I have heard someone did it without taking the pitch mount off. I'm not sure how he did it.

[BoostJunkie]

I disconnected the pitch stop mount and it was sooo much easier, I wish I had just done it from the beginning. Everything is in, I'll take the car for a drive tomorrow to see how they feel.

[AnorexicSTI]

Hey there... good timing on this thread. I went with Group N myself, but install should be similar. Was wondering what torque specs you used for all the bolts. Is it critical to torque them in a certain order? I saw an install guide on i-club, but no torque specs were mentioned.

[BoostJunkie]

The specs are roughly 35 ft. lbs. for the bolts that connect to the block/tranny and 50 ft. lbs. for everything else. For some things you just have to guess though because the space is too tight to get a torque wrench in. Two things that will save you a lot of time and trouble: 1) If you have a big front swaybar, disconnect the mounts so you can move the bar out of the way. This allows you to get the the nut that mounts the engine mount to the frame. 2) Disconnect the pitch stop mount from the beginning-it makes things much easier. 3) Follow the instructions on i-club and rearrange the washers on the motor mounts. It makes it much easier to line everything back up, and I was able to do it by myself without even having to use a pry bar.

[Digitalfiend]

So, what do you think of them?

Originally Posted by BoostJunkie

The specs are roughly 35 ft. lbs. for the bolts that connect to the block/tranny and 50 ft. lbs. for everything else. For some things you just have to guess though because the space is too tight to get a torque wrench in. Two things that will save you a lot of time and trouble: 1) If you have a big front swaybar, disconnect the mounts so you can move the bar out of the way. This allows you to get the the nut that mounts the engine mount to the frame. 2) Disconnect the pitch stop mount from the beginning-it makes things much easier. 3) Follow the instructions on i-club and rearrange the washers on the motor mounts. It makes it much easier to line everything back up, and I was able to do it by myself without even having to use a pry bar.

[BoostJunkie]

SO much better than the stock mounts. I really don't even think the vibration is that bad, and I love hearing all the engine/tranny noise come through now. The only time I get a lot of vibration is when I'm first starting out in 1st gear, other than that it's fine. And downshifting and upshifting are both so much smoother...I wish I did this mod a lot earlier.

[AnorexicSTI]

Ok I'm just in the middle of the install.... this is NOT easy... whoever said they did it in 45-60 min WITHOUT removing the pitch mount ... my hats off to you...

I CANNOT get those stupid rear bolts off... On the passenger side, I am thinking of loosening the steering rack so I can lift the engine high enough to sneak a 14mm socket and extension through that hole... but on the driver side... holy ****... it looks like I gotta remove the U-joint from the steering column and lower the steering rack out of the way... the only other way I could think of is using a 14mm wrench from the back... which I tried... but that thing is on so tight it ain't budging, even using the double wrench lock technique with LONG ASS wrenches... I'm about to give up, install the COBB swaybar, and do it another time... maybe when I do the steering rack bushings... somebody please help!!!

[AnorexicSTI]

Also, when raising the engine, I guess I have to disconnect the little hanger in the middle of the downpipe right? Anything else I missed? how high can I raise the engine safely?

[BoostJunkie]

As far as getting to the rear bolts, for the drivers side I came in from the front and reached over the steering rack. For the pass. side I went over the steering rack and control arm from the back, bot using a 14mm open ended wrench. They were on pretty tight but I was able to get them off. Since they are bolted into the aluminum block they aren't torqued down too tight. To raise the engine, just take off the intercooler and disconnect the pitch stop mount. Once you take off the nut that connects the motor mounts to the frame, just jack it up from the oil pan. You can safely raise it far enough to take the motor mounts out.

[AnorexicSTI]

I got everything done last night... here is what I did:

1. Jack 1 side at a time. And yes, you need to remove the downpipe support bracket bolt in the middle of the downpipe. Otherwise, it will prevent the motor from being jacked up more than 1/2" or so and put strain on the downpipe.

2. It's easier if you remove the 2 bolts holding the D bracket for the Steering Rack bushing. This will allow you to see better... I also removed the 4 bolts holding the steering rack to the subframe on the driver side... this allows you to move the rack around a bit to see better and also allow more room for your hands and possibly more "wrench swing"... it's not absolutely necessary, but heck, it's only 6 bolts and they come right out... to me, the time invested paid itself back.

3. Definitely remove the IC and pitch mount. Only remove the pitch mount at the front... you can leave the back attached.

4. Play with the height of the jacking so that you can get a 14 mm wrench to the passenger side bolt and be able to loosen and turn it such that it slides between the tranny casing and subframe... this height will enable the most range for the longest strokes to help loosen the bolt quicker... I had a ratcheting wrench, but unfortunately, the angle was different than my combination wrench and would not fit... I'm sure the right angled ratcheting wrench would work as well... once I loosened it 2-3 turns, I was able to get my finger in there and work the bolt out. For replacement, I cleaned it with compressed air and greased it so it would thread nicer.

5. Driver side - remove the windshield washer reservoir and all bracketing for the wiring (I already did this anyways from before, so it was easy for me). This will enable you to get an arm and 14mm wrench into the area... play around with raising the engine to a height in which you can get enough clearance to "swing" the wrench enough without hitting the axle or steering column... loosen 2-3 turns and then use your fingers... clean with compressed air, grease, and install the replacement mount.. what I did is thread the bottom bolt first almost all the way but still allowing the top part to "swing" so I could center the rear/top bolt... thread with fingers as much as possible and then use wrench for final few turns to make tight...

It actually wasn't as hard as I thought, but DEFINITELY NOT 10 min. like some guy said... I mean c'mon... I HATE it when people exagerate like that... gives a false sense of time/effort needed... there is NO WAY you could do it in 10 min whether you had a lift or not... this is easily a 2 hour job if you take your time... 3-4 if it's your first time and encounter problems like I did... and to the guy that said this was easier than installing the tranny mount... are you on crack??? The tranny mount is a 15-20 min job... 30-40 min if it's your first time... and is MUCH easier than the engine mounts....

I'm just glad I won't have to do this again for a while... Group N is in and I couldn't be happier... almost no added NVH... but much better performance for shifting and power delivery coming out of a turn or launching... or even right after a shift.