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Old 10-13-2006, 06:53 PM   #1
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Default Rear Shifter Bushing PROBLEM!!!!!!

So today I was installing all my new bushings when I ran into a problem. After taking out the stock rear bushing, I am unable to thread a screw back into the hole on the drivers side. Not even the original screw will go back in there, I don't know what the hell is wrong. Right now the car is still up on jacks and i have one screw in the rear bushing and the other screw is only halfway in before it just ceased to tighten anymore.

WTF should I do?? Should I just go buy like 10 washers to put between the screwhead and the bushing?


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Old 10-13-2006, 07:27 PM   #2
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No, take the bolt to Sears and get a thread chaser to clean up the theads in the hole. Run the thread chaser in the hole and reinstall the bushing and bolt.

My approach.

Blue
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Old 10-13-2006, 09:32 PM   #3
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Any other suggestions that won't cost 150 bucks?
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Old 10-14-2006, 05:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muffnbluff
Any other suggestions that won't cost 150 bucks?
They are about $15 from Snap-On. quit your whining and fix it right.
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Old 10-14-2006, 07:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tripod
They are about $15 from Snap-On. quit your whining and fix it right.
How about you not be an asshole. If I don't have an internal chasing tool, how do I use the $15 chaser?
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Old 10-14-2006, 08:41 AM   #6
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Let's keep the attitudes in check here folks. This is supposed to be a helpful environment, let's keep it friendly

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...060405x0000099

Unfortunately, it's an online order item, so your car will not be off the stands today.

I would also stop by a NAPA and see what they might be able to do for you.
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Old 10-14-2006, 09:06 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nandanrp
Let's keep the attitudes in check here folks. This is supposed to be a helpful environment, let's keep it friendly

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...060405x0000099

Unfortunately, it's an online order item, so your car will not be off the stands today.

I would also stop by a NAPA and see what they might be able to do for you.
Thanks nan, but I need an internal thread chaser. It's not the bolt that's messed up.
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Old 10-14-2006, 09:31 AM   #8
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I had the same problem. The bolt is metric 8mm or .315 inches so you can use a 5/16-18 tap. The reason I went with course is because the steel is super soft. Usually in steel applications it is best to go with a fine thread for strength. I tried to use a die to chase the threads. You will never fix it this way. The problem is that the bolt is as hard if not harder then the mild steel of the frame. The bolt is at an angle so you cross threaded the bolt when you put it in. These threads will most likely never work again and in most applications you can put enough pressure to fix the threads but with the drive shaft in the way it is next to impossible.
Short story:
You need a 5/16 18 tap (Kragen, sears, TruValue even lowes or Home Depressing has them)
And a new bolt (prefferably grade 5 zinc coated or stainess steel) 5/16 18 same as the tap.
BTW get a starting tap not a bottoming tap
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Old 10-14-2006, 09:46 AM   #9
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So is the rear stay bushing really worth it at the end of the day?
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Old 10-14-2006, 01:30 PM   #10
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Yes,
The shift bushings are worth it. The shifts are crisper and there is no sloppy point either you're in gear or you're not. They are a PITA but coupled with a shortshifter and you can hit gears at the track like a MOFO.
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Old 10-14-2006, 02:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boataholic
I had the same problem. The bolt is metric 8mm or .315 inches so you can use a 5/16-18 tap. The reason I went with course is because the steel is super soft. Usually in steel applications it is best to go with a fine thread for strength. I tried to use a die to chase the threads. You will never fix it this way. The problem is that the bolt is as hard if not harder then the mild steel of the frame. The bolt is at an angle so you cross threaded the bolt when you put it in. These threads will most likely never work again and in most applications you can put enough pressure to fix the threads but with the drive shaft in the way it is next to impossible.
Short story:
You need a 5/16 18 tap (Kragen, sears, TruValue even lowes or Home Depressing has them)
And a new bolt (prefferably grade 5 zinc coated or stainess steel) 5/16 18 same as the tap.
BTW get a starting tap not a bottoming tap

So how did you have enough clearance to be able to turn the tap? It seems like thats a pretty tight spot to do that.
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Old 10-14-2006, 04:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muffnbluff
So how did you have enough clearance to be able to turn the tap? It seems like thats a pretty tight spot to do that.
The tap has a 4 sided head to fit into a tappng tool, but you can also turn it (carefully) with a small open end wrench, or if there is enough roo, with a 1/4" ratched and appropriate socket. You just need to have enough room to get the tap in straight. I thought you understood that an internal chaser is a tap, silly me.
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Old 10-14-2006, 05:08 PM   #13
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MnB,
I had to loosen the driveshaft midpoint (can't remember exactly) and move it over as I could feel the driver-side bolt thread incorrectly. You may have to do the same in order to use the thread chaser.
Be patient and thread by had to start. If it doesn't feel right, back out and start over......did I say to be patient?

Good luck

Blue
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Old 10-15-2006, 05:16 PM   #14
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Well, my friend managed to get the oem bushing back in there because the screw for the kartboy bushing just was not gonna go in. So I'll prob throw it up for sale in the classifieds.
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:31 PM   #15
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The reason it doesn't go in right is because the hard plastic will not let the bolt go in straigh causing it to get crossthreaded. trim the red parts with a drill bit and put washers on the bolts. this is what i did and it fit perfectly.



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