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| | #1 |
| Gold Member | the 2nd picture is looking inside the AVO oil catch can (AKA air/oil separator) from the outlet hole looking towards the 2 inlet holes. it looks like this unit's baffling could be functional. please excuse the resolution. internally , the 2 inlets are physically separated from the 1 outlet by a welded in place 45 degree 4 inch long piece of aluminum that connects to a folded 10 inch rigid perforated aluminum screen. the sketch shows it better. a beautifully constructed unit . polished aluminum . totally welded box. all holes threaded . welded attachment bracket . has an actual drain plug. comes with about 11 feet of 13mm black fuel line hose. blue plastic/nylon Tefen connectors . approximately 6 inches long x 6.5 inches high x 2 inches wide. unfortunately no sight tube for amount of oil level collected. very sketchy hook-up instructions. recommended installation in front of battery is fairly well explained. sorry for long post. i think i'll first try a closed loop PCV-crankcase only installation and see if it collects much oil. i'll probably only use one inlet on the oil catch can and plug the other . purchased it at rallitek.com . good price , knowledgable guys. This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad. |
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| | #2 |
| Professional STI Racer Car: SR40'd '04 STi Location: New England Posts: 613
IWSTI Addict since: Nov 2002 Trader Rating: (0) | Ahhhh...finally! I started installation on my AVO about a month ago. I opted to fabricate an aluminum bracket in an "L" shape and install the catch can between the passenger strut and the I/C, as there's a space that it fits in perfectly. So we fab a bracket, sand down the rough edges, primer it, and spray it flat black to match the engine bay....only to discover none of us are comfortable enough with the provided instructions to run any of the tubing! PLEASE could you provide a pic with what you believe to be the proper routing of the lines? It'd be tremendously helpful.... |
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| | #3 |
| Spec C Club
Car: 04 Impreza WRX STi Fav Mod: La Quarta Stella Location: Blitzburgh, PA Posts: 1,440
IWSTI Addict since: Sep 2003 Trader Rating: (2) | I still say it is ridiculously overpriced even if it is well made. On the other hand, I returned a Cusco because it didn't have any baffling. I don't know what they expected it to "catch". -st |
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| | #4 |
| S204 Racer Car: Solo II, WRC Location: Overland Park, KS Posts: 2,776
IWSTI Addict since: Oct 2002 Trader Rating: (1) | That is a good looking design...gives the oil a nice relatively cold surface to condense on. I'd still like to see a finer mesh than that in there. I have my Perrin CC stuffed with a foam similar to what they use in couch cushions, along with a few patches of t-shirt material near the inlet to keep the foam relatively clean. Been working phenominally thus far. |
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| | #6 |
| Gold Member | the passenger strut tower location is also where i thought i'd try the initial install. with the 2 factory threaded holes for a bracket like you've done it really seems to have good potential . should be easier than the battery location to drain the caught oil . this location will depend on if i can connect to the pcv hose assembly with a pretty straight run or if it is too circuitous. i am going to hold off on this project for a week or so until i install an oil pressure and oil temperature sender , that are presently in UPS's hands . that will require pulling the intercooler and at which time i can figure out which spot on the pcv hose assembly to tie into. i'm going to only use 1 line off the assembly to the AVO with no additional lines T'd in . then back from the AVO to the factory fitting on the air intake. it seems there are only 3 spots to tie into :from engine to T; from T to manifold;or from T to air intake. i've read the hundreds of search pages on this like everybody else. i don't think there's only ONE way to connect a oil catch can, it all depends on what you're trying to accomplish, what speed mods you've done. off road or licensed for the highway.if you're turbocharged, supercharged or naturally aspirated , what kind of engine you have and what mileage . so i don't really have a schematic yet , but when i do i 'll post it . my reasoning for only tieing into the pcv is to keep the emission system entirely stock . the oil catch could potentially lower my emissions (probably a dream) and might keep the STi running as well in the future as it does now . the Colorado Clean Air program is rough . vehicles are run on dynos that check emissions at low and top posted speeds and under load. each year they tighten the emission standards . there are now remote testing units as you drive by they test your exhaust , and if your out of spec , your license plate is photo'd and you get a letter to come down and prove they shouldn't excessively fine you . i'm not against clean air, i like to do my part. we need to keep the air clear so we can always see the Rocky Mountains. mike was also the guy that was helpful for me at rallitek.com . |
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| | #9 |
| Gold Member | for a while I WAS confused with your observation . that was good . keep it coming . the hoses for the passenger side strut install line up well . they'll be relatively short runs. i think i'll initially connect the catch can between the T and the air intake. that should minimize oil vapor/residue/sludge entering the air intake-turbo-intercooler-throttle body at Heavy engine load . this will hopefully keep the oil film down and possibly oil combustion acting as an octane reducer with the resulting knock/ ping /detonation/ retard/power loss. at Light engine load , i'm not too concerned about oil vapors entering into the manifold for combustion. i'm not really convinced that there's enough oil vapor at Light engine load with an Unmodified engine to act as an octane reducer . but if the engine was heavily Modified with higher boost and potentially more oil blow-by entering the manifold , that additional avenue of octane reduction could become be a real concern . then i'd seriously consider installing the catch can between the block and the T. if my initial install doesn't collect some reasonable amount of oil in relation to oil consumption during say, the interval between a 3000 mile oil change and assuming moderate amounts of heavy engine loads , i will then try this install between the block and the T. |
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| | #10 |
| Gold Member | by the way , the strut tower factory holes are approximately 2 inches on center. and they take a 6mm x 1.00mm thread bolt. i used 1 1/2 inch long bolts to go through spacers to clear the brake lines attached to the strut tower. |
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| | #13 |
| Gold Member | just finished the avo first initial install yesterday at 3:45 A M . thought about an all-nighter ,but my semi-good sense won over. didn't get a chance to take it for a good trial run on the streets. i'll do that today. have install pics and will post with flowery narrative..here's one of the finished first initial install . |
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| | #14 |
| Gold Member | i didn't really want to add the two 90 degree angles to the avo return line into the air intake, but the hose kinked no matter what direction i twisted it. using three times the length of hose eliminated the kinking , but i am hoping a shorter length with the bends will not be a problem . the stock pcv hose assembly has a number of built in 90 degree angles , so maybe this won't be a issue. we'll see when i run it hard today. |
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| | #15 |
| Junior STI Driver | not trying to hijack, but i'm thinking about putting together an oil/air seperator myself. i was wondering in anybody had thoughts about what sort of size i should aim for. can it be too big/small? or should i just make something that will fit where i want it to go? This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad. |
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