[bbong]

Originally Posted by 949

so at least now i know im not the only one with the ebrake close to the ds.

you can move the cable only after you unbolt and take off the two clamps that keep them in place. there are two on each side of the car for the left and right ebrakes. you do have to be a bit imaginative to make it stay after you unbolt it.

i wonder if it hits the ds while spinning fast tho?

I also noticed that DS is being close to an ebrake, and I have 1 hard launch and like 2 hard highway pulls behind me on that DS, will crawl underneath the car on Saturday and see how the ebrake cables are holding.

[QuickSilverSTi]

Do you have access to a lift? I'd raise it and make sure everything is out of the way.

[Jelphree]

Photobucket is being weird and I can't upload my pictures.

Anyway, I mentioned earlier that the shaft made contact with the under body. I tried hammering as much as I could, but didn't leverage. I took the car for a spin and the car still vibrates. Its less, but vibrates none the less.

The yolk is also not flush is I really don't tighten the nuts and bolds. There is not enough clearance inside the yolk for it to not make contact with the rear diff.

I'll be installing the stock shaft to truly pin point the a defective drive shaft.

Just for good measure, I will be going to EDO Performance on Saturday to compare with their install of the shaft.

[SoJDM.com]

The shaft should not contact the chassis anywhere. It is possible that with car-to-car variations the chassis could be in closer proximity than on other Subarus. But in no way should it be contacting the driveshaft. This is something we have not seen.

The brake cable must not be close enough to contact the driveshaft. In a contest of a steel cable rubbing against a carbon fiber driveshaft, the driveshaft will lose if the problem is not rectified. "Small rubbing" quickly becomes big problem. No contact is minor. Secure the brake cable in some manner to prevent its possible movement. ACPT has been explicit that there is no warranty against external damage to the driveshaft. It is the responsibility of the installer to ensure this.

Jelphee, if your driveshaft flange center cast metal area is showing signs of contact from the differential pinion nose (the central part) we need to get that driveshaft back and replace it.

Originally Posted by Jelphree

I did have those marks on the yolk after it was installed.

I also noticed that the shaft was hitting the chassis, right where the rear floor is located. It made a small rubbing mark on the under-body. I'm guessing this is why the vibration/shaking is occurring. The shaft seems shifted a little bit to the left if you were looking at it straight upwards. What I mean is that the gap between the shaft and the rear diff mount is bigger than the left side.

My plan tomorrow when I get home from work is to hammer the under-body in to give some clearance. For the people who installed the shaft themselves, did you have this issue?

I will post pictures tomorrow. SoJDM and ACPT have given me some feedback and have been very helpful with this ordeal.

I'm going to have a few beers now...

[OrangeDot3083]

I'm sure it’s in one of these posts some where and I've looked for over the past 30min and could not find it.

So on with the question, what is the max whp these things can take? And if and that is a very big IF. If I was to break one, let’s say while launching it at the drag strip would it be replaced under warranty?

[wrrrx]

Originally Posted by SoJDM.com

The shaft should not contact the chassis anywhere. It is possible that with car-to-car variations the chassis could be in closer proximity than on other Subarus. But in no way should it be contacting the driveshaft. This is something we have not seen.

Jim- just how close is okay? I assume the carbon fiber must flex a bit under load, so I'm wondering how close is too close, as far as the underbody...

thanks,
Russ R

[Jelphree]

I just finished test driving the car with the stock shaft and NO VIBRATIONS!

I'll still trying to post the pictures, but photobucket is being retarded. I'm going to have to sign up for a different picture hosting site.

SoJDM, the cf shaft is making contact with the pinion nose. I'm sending you a PM. I also emailed James the pictures.

[wrrrx]

Well,it's in. (It was a helluva lot longer than 20 minutes though, lol!)

Looks like it fits well, although there are a coupla bolts coming in from up top that make me a bit nervous.
No contact anywhere...
... that I could see.
Unfortunately, when I drove it, there's a lot of vibration thru the shifter. I can' feel any vibration in the car itself, only the shifter. In fact, if I pull the shifter sideways towards me, the vibration/noise goes away. Also under load it seems to lessen.
I have Grp N eng/trans mounts, TiC short shift kit and TiC clunk killer rear "outrigger" bushings...
When coming to a stop, the noise/vibration seems to get worse, or at least be more noticeable.
I'll crawl back under and see WTF is going on.

Whether I find something definitive or not, I'm not sure I feel comfortable doing this Friday's track day with this installed...

God#mm*t, I was really hoping this was going to work for me...

[JD_STI]

Originally Posted by wrrrx

Well,it's in. (It was a helluva lot longer than 20 minutes though, lol!)

Looks like it fits well, although there are a coupla bolts coming in from up top that make me a bit nervous.
No contact anywhere...
... that I could see.
Unfortunately, when I drove it, there's a lot of vibration thru the shifter. I can' feel any vibration in the car itself, only the shifter. In fact, if I pull the shifter sideways towards me, the vibration/noise goes away. Also under load it seems to lessen.
I have Grp N eng/trans mounts, TiC short shift kit and TiC clunk killer rear "outrigger" bushings...
When coming to a stop, the noise/vibration seems to get worse, or at least be more noticeable.
I'll crawl back under and see WTF is going on.

Whether I find something definitive or not, I'm not sure I feel comfortable doing this Friday's track day with this installed...

God#mm*t, I was really hoping this was going to work for me...

Just a thought. When I installed my Kartboy SS I noticed the reverse cable had a lot of wear on it where it had been hitting the stock drive shaft. This made a similar vibration through the shift lever. You may want to check that cable out. I was able to use a couple zip ties to get it out of the way.

[SoJDM.com]

Originally Posted by OrangeDot3083

I'm sure it’s in one of these posts some where and I've looked for over the past 30min and could not find it.

So on with the question, what is the max whp these things can take? And if and that is a very big IF. If I was to break one, let’s say while launching it at the drag strip would it be replaced under warranty?

Don't know the horsepower required to break the driveshaft but I'm sure it exceeds stock by a comfortable margin. We've never heard of one breaking. Since it is a racing part there is no warranty after a reasonable time (30 days) to make sure there are no problems. Obviously, when you start producing a lot of horsepower, things will break, but so far it seems other stuff breaks before the drive shaft.

[SoJDM.com]

Originally Posted by wrrrx

Jim- just how close is okay? I assume the carbon fiber must flex a bit under load, so I'm wondering how close is too close, as far as the underbody...

thanks,
Russ R

What you want to do is make sure that the brake cable can't in any way creep towards the d/s. I would say just to be safe a 1/2 inch or 13 mm.

[SoJDM.com]

If you have hardened bushings you are already experiencing a higher level of vibration. Install the d/s and there will be some higher level of vibration. Guys have told us that with both types of mods, the vibrations are even more. But your dash or seat should not be vibrating by any noticeable amount.

[DCH]

Originally Posted by SoJDM.com

If you have hardened bushings you are already experiencing a higher level of vibration. Install the d/s and there will be some higher level of vibration. Guys have told us that with both types of mods, the vibrations are even more. But your dash or seat should not be vibrating by any noticeable amount.

Hm. Really?

Hit up a road course and during 100+mph straights, my seat was vibrating like crazy. I even managed to hit 120+mph and my rear view mirror was just useless...it was so shaky.

Cruising on the highway from 70-80mph, there aren't any vibrations at all.

[wrrrx]

Originally Posted by JD_STI

Just a thought. When I installed my Kartboy SS I noticed the reverse cable had a lot of wear on it where it had been hitting the stock drive shaft. This made a similar vibration through the shift lever. You may want to check that cable out. I was able to use a couple zip ties to get it out of the way.

Hmm, thanks JD and Jim -I will doublecheck both the brake cable and the reverse cable...
I hope this will be fairly easy to fix... that would ROCK!

[wrrrx]

Originally Posted by DCH

Hm. Really?

Hit up a road course and during 100+mph straights, my seat was vibrating like crazy. I even managed to hit 120+mph and my rear view mirror was just useless...it was so shaky.

Cruising on the highway from 70-80mph, there aren't any vibrations at all.

R'uh r'oh- more stuff for me to worry aobut -I have a track day this Friday at PIR (Portland Intnat'l Raceway), where I see over 140mph on the front straight...