[C43]

Originally Posted by phattey

C43....each install seems to act a little differently. Some are tight and quiet, others aren't.

Mine is really good now, finally..!!! However, the one thing I would've done different while it was all apart, would've been to install the "spring" on the shift lever...

I thought Clint posted that somewhere from another client. The guy used a Rainbird sprinkler spring to add just enough tension on the lever to stop any remaining rattle. My Harleys have this concept too. On the foot shifter going into the transmission, a small spring(aftermarket) or a thin rubber sleeve(factory) provides the same affect. Applies tension to ensure the shift peg dosen't rattle or virabte too much.

If you can rest your hand on the lever and it reduces the rattles, then the spring thingie will work for you. If I ever have to go back in for any reason, I will install it. It's simply another level of insurance against rattles and vibration. If others try this with consistently good results, perhaps Clint can provide a Tic spring opposed to a visit to Home Depot...

P

Thanks for the info. Can you describe the procedure to install the spring? I had my TIC S.S. installed for me. Tonight I added a second zip tie and flipped the plate that holds the rubber boot. My radioless 35 mile trip to work wil be my trial and error. Since my amp blew I have been hearing the rattle. I wonder why after my amp blew?. Are the bushings connected to the amp? Please if you could give me directions for the spring. This way if she is still rattling I can try the spring. I love my TIC kit, any rattle is worth it and earned. Thanks again.

[phattey]

Search on rainbird...you'll find it...

Good luck with the rattle....I had to replace "everything" to remedy it....

P

[aspensti05]

Yup...it's the oring alright:




Anyone know what that twisted wire is near my pliers in the 2nd pic? That doesn't look stock/standard.

So...where do I go to buy a new oring and what are the specs? I believe lowes sells them, if someone can tell me the diameter and thickness.

Also what kind of grease is that? It looks like I need more.


Note to future TiC ultimate shifter buyers. This shift kit is AWESOME, just install it yourself because shops don't care and screw it up! They just want your money. For reference this was installed by Pruven Performance. You've been warned. See my journal for the other crap they did when I used them.

[Turninconcepts.com]

That wire is there to hold the dust boot to the cup. it's perfectly normal.

Crap on the o-ring. pull the basket out and check to make sure there are two. One up toward the top in a grove and the other goes in a declevity at the bottom of the basket. from my doing this over and over I believe that they two are the same size so take the bottom one (if you still have it) and go to home depot or lowes and see if you can find a replacement.

if you cannot find a replacement please let me know ASAP (call me 513-235-5150) and I will get to work on getting one sourced from Subaru.

edit: Oh, and that grease is just any old grease. wheel bearing grease is what I use, but litium grease works fine too.

[aspensti05]

Originally Posted by Turninconcepts.com

from my doing this over and over I believe that they two are the same size so take the bottom one (if you still have it) and go to home depot or lowes and see if you can find a replacement.

I went to four places looking for this oring. Lowes, Pep-boys, AutoZone and Home Depot. I ended up finding it at Home Depot but I had to buy a $13 sink part to get the oring with it They had none the right size or thickness available indvidually or even in a pack.

That said it's all back together. I picked up some white lithium grease too I hope that's ok.

I was hoping it would feel different running through the gears in the garage, but it didn't. I'm away visiting my family for Christmas the next two days, so I probably won't get a chance to drive it till Monday or Tuesday. I'll report back then.

Clint, thanks again for your awesome willingness help and response time.

[Turninconcepts.com]

No problem. Get back to me next week and let me know what you find out.

C43 - Any luck on your end?

[UrbanKnight]

Originally Posted by aspensti05

I've got a horrible case of the rattles too. I'll post a short video when I can.

Right now it only happens when the tranny is warmed up. It happens in 3rd and 5th gear the most and a little in 4th gear. Only at deceleration from any rpm over 4000.

I have two zip tips on the reverse cable inside the car and one outside the car.
When I have the rattle it does not stop or lessen when I pull up on the reverse lock out ring.
I checked the torque on the fulcurm bolt and it's not over tight and its not loose.
When I put my hand on the shifter it does not stop the rattle, but it does lessen it.
If I put pressure on on the lower part of the shifter(where one part is welded to the other) it almost goes away completely.

It is driving me insane!!! Any suggestions? I'll post a video with the noise and some pics of the install when I can.

Thanks.

I had this same rattle after my install. Exactly the same symptoms after about a week of driving. I apologize that I don't know the name of this part, but it is the bolt on the control arm that runs vertically, with the top bolt that has no head, just 2 flat notches. If you tighten that bolt, all will go away.

trust me, I tried everything prior to finding that..(dynamat the console, shifter ties, reverse lockout cable, every bolt BUT that one, etc)

I had to use mini vise grips to lock on to the lack of bolt head, and then a stubby 12mm wrench on the nut.


Couldn't be happier now, not a hit of noise in any gear!

UK

[aspensti05]

Originally Posted by UrbanKnight

I had this same rattle after my install. Exactly the same symptoms after about a week of driving. I apologize that I don't know the name of this part, but it is the bolt on the control arm that runs vertically, with the top bolt that has no head, just 2 flat notches. If you tighten that bolt, all will go away.

I'm pretty sure it was due to the cut oring I just replaced, but just in case this doesn't solve it where is this bolt you speak of? Inside the car or outside underneath the car?

Thanks!

[UrbanKnight]

It is underneath the car

Here are my horrid pics
chopped from TIC instructions




UK

[Turninconcepts.com]

Good call on throwing up the pics to make it easier.

you will need a 14mm for the top with the "flats" and a 12mm for the nut. It takes a little bit of flexibility and patience but you can tighten those without having to rip the whole assembly out.

Just drop the front stay and shove it to one side, and that should give you the room.

[Brahmzy]

This may not be your problem, but it was mine. Still rattle free and loving the TiC's!!!

Yay! Fixed that @#%*ing shifter rattle! (PICS)

Holy thread resurrection BatMan.

[Turninconcepts.com]

Originally Posted by Brahmzy

This may not be your problem, but it was mine. Still rattle free and loving the TiC's!!!

Yay! Fixed that @#%*ing shifter rattle! (PICS)

Holy thread resurrection BatMan.

No KIDDING!! BTW, we'll have something for your 2005 Redish soon that I think you'll like.

[aspensti05]

Looks like I am going to have to take UrbanKnight's advice. I drove the car with the replacement oring and I still have the rattle.

The shifts are tighter and firmer and feel great! The rattle is there, but about half as loud as it was before.

[C43]

I am buying a sprinkler tomorrow. Thanks man. I blew my amp and now all I hear is the rattle. When I pull on the reverse it stops. Thanks again.

[Turninconcepts.com]

if it stops when you pull on the reverse then you need to adjust the tension in the lockout cable.