[ocsti]

So everyone knows how fast this car goes, and how to get it up there, but what about slowing it down in a way that is efficient and safe for the car and relatively easy for the driver.
--How does everyone do it, and what is the best way?
Is there any tried-and-true method for slowing down this car?

Double clutching, downshifting normally and using the synchros (probably not the best idea), putting it into neutral and just riding the brakes, or any combination of these?

[Digitalfiend]

It depends on what you are aiming for. If you want to stop this car as fast as possible just step on the brakes as hard as you can and get on the clutch. The car will slow down very fast and the ABS will engage near the last 20ft-30ft or so. This car stops FAST so look behind you if you ever do this.

If you mean regular "braking for a light" kind of thing, I typically do this: begin braking, downshift one gear if needed (rev match - either heel & toe or just get off the brakes for a sec), then once the RPMs drop to 1k and I'm about to stop, I'll put in the clutch, shift to neutral and stop. Very safe, smooth, and very little wear on the car. I usually try to stay in gear as long as possible but only executing one downshift. So usually I end up in 3rd or occasionally 2nd before I clutch in and stop.

From what I know, gentle engine braking persae isn't that bad for the car. You just don't want to start engine braking from 55mph in 2nd to slow for a light. Brakes are better for that. You stay in gear so that you can be prepared for the unexpected. Never shift to neutral at speed because if you suddenly have to power around something you won't be able to.

Now if you want to brake quickly for a corner, say on a track or pulling into the drive-through at McDonalds, do this:

- begin braking with the ball of your foot
- clutch in
- select the gear you want for exiting the corner
- pivot your heel over to the gas pedal and step down/roll your foot into the throttle to blip it. Basically you blip with the lower edge & heel of your foot.
- as the RPMs reach a point appropriate for the selected gear, let out the clutch smoothly. You usually back off the braking very slightly to maintain proper weight transfer/stability.
- finish braking
- move the ball of your foot back to the throttle and balance through the apex
- as you pass the apex begin to unwind
- accelerate


Blah probably more than what you asked for but I can't sleep and I'm zombifying over here so work with me...

[OKflyswatter]

Whatever way you want to! Some people will tell you to put the car in neutral (or push the clutch in) and use the brakes since brakes are cheaper to replace than worn out drivetrain parts. Others will tell you it is too much of a pain to clean the wheels every day because of brake dust so gear down. I tend to use both. If I'm rolling up to a red light or stop sign I'll brake and rev-match downshifts to around 25 mph and only use the brakes for anything slower than that since 2nd and 1st can be a little difficult to downshift into at certain speeds. The bottom line is that everyone's driving habbits are different.

[OKflyswatter]

Now if you want to brake quickly for a corner, say on a track or pulling into the drive-through at McDonalds, do this:

WTH man, you let Mcdonalds food in your STi? j/k I have another question. When magazines are testing cars stopping distances do they just drop into neutral and mash the brakes or do they try to downshift a gear or two to help? Just curious.

[Boxer]

Originally Posted by OKflyswatter

use the brakes since brakes are cheaper to replace than worn out drivetrain parts.

Excessive downshifting/double clutching is totally unnecessary in this car (unless you're on the track, of course). I usually downshift/heel toe for quick corners and let the Brembos handle the rest, which they do quite adequately.

[whiplash306]

Brakes are way cheaper to replace than transmissions. Plus, if you've ever seen the bearings on a car that was improperly downshifted for long periods of time.....it's not a good thing. I use the brakes only...But, as stated above, each has their own style of braking for what they feel is most effective. Good advice though to not switch to neutral at a high rate of speed for slowing down with only your brakes......

[Ol'SaltyBastard]

As stated in a BMW driving course manual that I printed a few years ago: "Use the brakes, that's what they're for."

I guess it does depend on the situation though.

[Gogats]

Brakes work well

[Slowride]

Brakes. I don't "engine brake"--unnecessary wear/strain on drivetrain.

[sciolist]

Apply the breaks; but remember that you have more stopping power that just about any vehicle that's likely to be behind you on the street.

Generally speaking, downshifting is for adjusting power output, not vehicle speed.

Engine braking is for steep hills and tweakers.

[WasabiSTi]

So gentle engine braking, say rev matching from 5th to 4th to 3rd in a controlled manner (revs not to exceed 4200) before stopping is bad for the car? I though rev matching was supposed to save the drivetrain from stress while downshifting? Should I just put it in neutral @50 and brake as normal? I thought the drivetrain was tougher than that? Should I try to save the brakes, or stick with the engine braking?

[sciolist]

So gentle engine braking, say rev matching from 5th to 4th to 3rd in a controlled manner (revs not to exceed 4200) before stopping is bad for the car?

No.

I though rev matching was supposed to save the drivetrain from stress while downshifting?

It does, but that assumes there is a valid reason to downshift in the first place.

Should I just put it in neutral @50 and brake as normal?

You mean like on a flat grade, coming to a red light? Yes.

I thought the drivetrain was tougher than that?

It is.

Should I try to save the brakes, or stick with the engine braking?

The purpose of the brakes is to stop the car. The pads wear in the process. That's okay, that's what is supposed to happen. The purpose of the drive train is to move the car forward. It also wears in that process, but at a much slower (we hope) rate than the pads. There are obviously ways of using the drivetrain to slow the car, but generally speaking, one would want there to be a valid reason for using them, like a 10-mile hill at 20%.

I took the tone of the original question as asking how to slow the car down from a relatively high speed relatively quickly, in a typical daily driving situation. Of course there are other techniques that are applicable to different situations.

[Neanderthal Racing]

Originally Posted by OKflyswatter

When magazines are testing cars stopping distances do they just drop into neutral and mash the brakes or do they try to downshift a gear or two to help? Just curious.

think. better yet, try panic stopping from 70 using both methods.

[Digitalfiend]

If you really think about it, downshifting during a panic stop isn't going to provide any quicker stopping power than just clutching in and mashing the brakes. Once you mash the brakes you are decelerating so rapidly that any resistance the tranny and engine could provide is probably negligible. That's just my take on it though. It might not be correct.

[Sands]

The only reason to heal-toe is to be in the right gear when you want to accelerate through a corner or after an emergency situation on a freeway, etc.

When you are on the brakes slowing down and heal toeing, the engine match should be good enough that your brake force is constant and progressive. The engine is not for stopping fast.

The best way to do this is to engage the clutch slowing on falling revs. This means you actually over rev slightly (1-300rpm), let it fall a beat, then slip the clutch. If you try to engage the clutch on rising or steady revs, you will not be smooth.

Having said that, I down shift all the time slowing for off ramps, down hills, etc. without using the brakes. As long as you are matching revs within 100 rpm, ther should be no problem on wear. Of the three manual cars that I've owned, all the original clutches have lasted to at least 120k miles.