[sti_schumacher]

Hey guys.
I've just ordered an aluminium driveshaft from DriveshaftShop (i think its the only non CF one available). Anyone using it have some feedback on it?? Anything is appreciated. Thanks.

[crf-sti]

i'm thinking of getting one of these in the future as well, let us know how it does, thanks.

[gohrsepwr]

ive heard they are really big and you might have to hammer the floor pan for clearence, this is just second hand info though.

[VSGTS14]

yea you do have to hammer out the floorplan for it to fit.

[V8Huntr]

+1 on that!

Here's a good thread started by Neanderthal
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/drivetrain-components/50792-aluminum-driveshaft-driveshaftshop.html

[sti_schumacher]

thanks, was helpful
looks like a lot of issues with that DS.. But its been 2 years since Neanderthal purchsed theirs. I trust (rather, hope) that DriveshaftShop has had time to improve their quality. Otherwise, mark my word, they'll get an earful from me!!!

[token-negro]

Pickup the TIC or Kartboy outrigger bushings, i guess these change the angle of the rear sub frame and Diff enough to help the larger DS fit with whats been said zero modding to the tunnel.

[sti_schumacher]

Originally Posted by token-negro

Pickup the TIC or Kartboy outrigger bushings, i guess these change the angle of the rear sub frame and Diff enough to help the larger DS fit with whats been said zero modding to the tunnel.

doesn't aftermarket bushings+aluminiumd driveshaft = vibration??

[crf-sti]

Originally Posted by token-negro

Pickup the TIC or Kartboy outrigger bushings, i guess these change the angle of the rear sub frame and Diff enough to help the larger DS fit with whats been said zero modding to the tunnel.

that would be very cool!

[token-negro]

Originally Posted by sti_schumacher

doesn't aftermarket bushings+aluminiumd driveshaft = vibration??

Is u car a CTS or a STI?

Your question is true if the DS is not balanced well.
Its only the outrigger bushings that change the alignment.

[sti_schumacher]

nvm all that now! i've just installed it, seems to be working well! no vibration/disbalance to 100 mph (thats as fast as i had room to go). This ds is MUCH lighter than the stock one. In terms of modifications to the floorboard - not too many:

1. hammered the panel where the handbrake wires exit to the outside (rearmost part of the tunnel)
2. hammered the floorboard under the passenger seat (somewhere in that area...)
3. hammered the rigidity bar at the tunnel center - it protrudes 1.5 cm down from the main panel
4. sightly grinded and hammered the crossmember (there was a gap, but too small)
5. placed the rear cap (where the ds attaches to the rear diff) on 3 washers


no cutting or welding was required, and the acquired modifications are barely visible. overall, this took about 1.5 -2 hours, and i WAS taking my time

The aluminium ds is absolutely the same length as the stock ds, maybe even slightly longer. But where it enters the trans (see below), on the stock ds there is a cap that covers the protruding part, and on this shaft, there is no such cap, so it would seem that it's too short:



(this is the neanderthal thred pic)

i'd say the car drives better, but thats probably a completely subjective opinion! ill go out to someplace quiet on of these days w/ my g-tech and check the performance gains.

[sti_schumacher]

drove some more - no vibrations, no nothin at 200k, even with 3 people!

it's much softer on the drivetrain and the launch is quicker. shifts are much smoother, less rpms required: overall better drive feel!

btw, i OWNED a heavily tuned 350z from a red light! - only needed gears 1-3

factual performance gains are TBA.

[kursplat]

Originally Posted by sti_schumacher

5. placed the rear cap (where the ds attaches to the rear diff) on 3 washers

could you post a pic? maybe i'm picturing it wrong but this sounds funky/scary

Originally Posted by sti_schumacher

The aluminium ds is absolutely the same length as the stock ds, maybe even slightly longer. But where it enters the trans (see below), on the stock ds there is a cap that covers the protruding part, and on this shaft, there is no such cap, so it would seem that it's too short:

when your looking at driveshaft length you need to remember that it has to be able to slide in and out if the tranny's tail shaft housing as the rear end moves. it has to stay engaged at full droop as well as not bottom out at full compression.

[sti_schumacher]

Originally Posted by kursplat

could you post a pic? maybe i'm picturing it wrong but this sounds funky/scary

here's a pic (this, again, is from the neanderthal thread, not my own pic)


its this cap, with the harmonic (or w/e it is) on it. I didn't have as much an issue with it as shown here. With the aluminium DS installed, the cap fit back on perfectly, but the gap between the ds and this cap (on the other end, where there is no harmonic) was too small - only 3 mm or so. So i threw in a couple of washers between the bolt holes on the frame and the holes in the cap itself.
- Let me know if this is clear.

Originally Posted by kursplat

when your looking at driveshaft length you need to remember that it has to be able to slide in and out if the tranny's tail shaft housing as the rear end moves. it has to stay engaged at full droop as well as not bottom out at full compression.

thanks, i know that.

[sti_schumacher]

no post for long time....

i've driven with the aluminium DS some more, no problems so far. driving has gotten MUCH nicer with smooth shifts. definitely less strain on the gearbox and diffs. i bet the drivetrain would buy me a beer if it could

bit of a rubbing issue at the rear cross-member: when the rear diff moves a lot (only when you launch hard and shift hard - only 1st to 2nd) it brings the DS into contact with the cross-member, but this happened with the stock DS also...
only slight scratches appeared on the shaft. nothing serious. but i am considering stiffer diff. bushings...