Perrin SLS same thing as TiC 'sexy rear end' for 1/2 price? - Page 2

***Draco-REX*** · 03-17-2008, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FleaDog

The bolts are really the same.

perrins bushings are durometer 70.

Now that I look at it closer, the rear diff support bushings from tic look to be full replacements of the stock rubber whereas the perrin kit are extra bushings you mount around the stockers.

still not sure about the 'forward' support beam bushings difference b/c perrin/tic.

I talked to perrin today. the instructions dont describe the 'washer' thing in between the bushing and the chassis on the 'forward' beam/support. The perrin bushing in supposed to go between the stocker and that 9washer thing). But when i did that i got that 'shudder' on WOT, so i took them out.

The KartBoy outrigger bushings from TiC have a thick larger ring that goes where the perrin one goes. But there's a smaller ring that stuffs into the bottom of the stock outrigger bushing and presses against the plate with the 3 bolts that you remove/loosen to install the upper one. Without the bottom one, maybe the outrigger is bouncing? Not sure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOOBYTRAP

^^ I have the TIC kit and noticed the vibration too. So I'm clear, you removed the 2 larger bushings and it went away, correct?

Did you use the thick bushing or the thin one on top? The thin one is for FOrresters I believe, but we're supposed to use the thick one.

***snorky*** · 03-17-2008, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Did you use the thick bushing or the thin one on top? The thin one is for FOrresters I believe, but we're supposed to use the thick one.

correct

polyol · 03-17-2008, 03:46 PM

Ive been running the subframe lockout for the last year with no ill effects.

***snorky*** · 03-17-2008, 03:52 PM

A whole year?!?!omgz!!

I'll continue to remove mine until someone with some credentials tells me, "Hey Timmy, you can leave those bolts in, nothings going to happen." Whiteline's recommendation has more sway with me over armchair assumptions/gut feelings.

polyol · 03-17-2008, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snorky

A whole year?!?!omgz!!

I'll continue to remove mine until someone with some credentials tells me, "Hey Timmy, you can leave those bolts in, nothings going to happen." Whiteline's recommendation has more sway with me over armchair assumptions/gut feelings.

Hmm...well I take it that was an attempt to be witty.

Maybe I should say a whole year + 6months...so that = 1.5 years. Add in qute a few autox runs and that = 2000 years. So consider me the guinne pig for you.

OK that was my best attempt at wit...not very good either.

***snorky*** · 03-17-2008, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polyol

Hmm...well I take it that was an attempt to be witty.

Maybe I should say a whole year + 6months...so that = 1.5 years. Add in qute a few autox runs and that = 2000 years. So consider me the guinne pig for you.

OK that was my best attempt at wit...not very good either.

Wow I was messing with you. I respect your input but a year (and a half) is a small fraction of the car's life. And autoxs don't count as hard driving if that's what you're insinuating.

If you want to flex nuts, my 5 track days and 12 autoxs last year with the bolts can serve as your guinea pig (whatever that's supposed to mean).

polyol · 03-17-2008, 04:55 PM

So you seriously take the bolt off after autox days? Impressive...some guys think im crazy for slamming plates at the track.

***snorky*** · 03-17-2008, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polyol

So you seriously take the bolt off after autox days? Impressive...some guys think im crazy for slamming plates at the track.

Yep. A little antiseize before installing just to keep the threads healthy. That;s my only worry, wearing the threads. I torque it to WL's specs.

My can is up in the air anyway swapping wheels, it's two bolts taht aren't difficult to get to.

I slam my plates for autox too.

fullerton · 03-17-2008, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snorky

Wow I was messing with you. I respect your input but a year (and a half) is a small fraction of the car's life. And autoxs don't count as hard driving if that's what you're insinuating.

If you want to flex nuts, my 5 track days and 12 autoxs last year with the bolts can serve as your guinea pig (whatever that's supposed to mean).

Kids, I emailed WL, lets see what they say.

***snorky*** · 03-17-2008, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fullerton

Kids, I emailed WL, lets see what they say.

superben. i saw tic on here earlier, i was hoping they would have some input. guess it is a thread about another company though.

**tyler_sti** · 03-17-2008, 05:20 PM

^Ha. I don't see how the subframe would be weak enough to be effected, by the lock bolts. It's a very solid piece, and would transfer the weight between the actual frame of the car more efficently. Insted of it absorbing the sole tolerances of the weight being exherted.

fullerton · 03-18-2008, 04:01 AM

Whiteline's response:

Quote:

Hi Ben,

Because this kit is designed to eliminate movement in the subframe, increased load will be placed on the subframe mounts and the vehicle body. As you've realised it's basically a disclaimer against the worst case scenario should it ever eventuate.

In regards to our own findings, we've had 2 long term inclusions in the company fleet, both STi's put through heavy testing and development, that have had these installed for as long as we've had the vehicles and they're showing no signs of letting up.

Kind Regards,

Wayne Vickery

I have a set of your Impreza Rear Subframe Lock Bolts. You have a warning that it will increase wear on the car if you leave them in all the time.

My question is: Do you have this warning to cover your ass so that people can't get mad if something goes wrong, or is there an actual possibility that something could go wrong? I don't see it as a problem and plan on leaving them on permanently.

***snorky*** · 03-18-2008, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tyler_sti

^Ha. I don't see how the subframe would be weak enough to be effected, by the lock bolts. It's a very solid piece, and would transfer the weight between the actual frame of the car more efficently. Insted of it absorbing the sole tolerances of the weight being exherted.

I'm not sure what you're trying to say...

Quote:

Originally Posted by fullerton

Whiteline's response:

works for me. I'll leave mine in next time I put them in.

**boxtwo** · 04-14-2008, 06:59 AM

So for street and light track (HPDE ~ couple/year) how well do you think this setup works? I have been planning on geting myself a Sexy Rear End, but have not had time. Would it be better to try to get the Comfort version of the Rear Diff Mount?

***snorky*** · 04-14-2008, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boxtwo

So for street and light track (HPDE ~ couple/year) how well do you think this setup works? I have been planning on geting myself a Sexy Rear End, but have not had time. Would it be better to try to get the Comfort version of the Rear Diff Mount?

I went with the comfort diff carrier bushings and the comfort outrigger bushings and the subframe lockout bolts.... snorky's comfy bony rear end. TiC is probably going to sue me for that.

The subframe lockout bolts gave no increased NVH as far as i could tell. The rear end is definitely more predictable and easier to control with them in.

03-17-2008, 03:46 PM	#18
polyol Spec C Club Car: 04 STi Fav Mod: Motor Mounts Location: Eugene Posts: 2,263 Join Date: Oct 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Perrin SLS same thing as TiC 'sexy rear end' for 1/2 price? Ive been running the subframe lockout for the last year with no ill effects.

03-17-2008, 03:52 PM	#19
*snorky* If in doubt, flat out Car: 32J GDFDYEH Fav Mod: Fullerton's Qrack on my car Location: Chicagoland Posts: 3,758 Join Date: Apr 2006 Trader Rating: (23)	Re: Perrin SLS same thing as TiC 'sexy rear end' for 1/2 price? A whole year?!?!omgz!! I'll continue to remove mine until someone with some credentials tells me, "Hey Timmy, you can leave those bolts in, nothings going to happen." Whiteline's recommendation has more sway with me over armchair assumptions/gut feelings.

03-17-2008, 04:55 PM	#22
polyol Spec C Club Car: 04 STi Fav Mod: Motor Mounts Location: Eugene Posts: 2,263 Join Date: Oct 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Perrin SLS same thing as TiC 'sexy rear end' for 1/2 price? So you seriously take the bolt off after autox days? Impressive...some guys think im crazy for slamming plates at the track.

03-17-2008, 05:20 PM	#26
tyler_sti Gold Member Car: '07 CMG STI Fav Mod: Not knowing how to "spell" hah Location: los angeles Posts: 3,709 Join Date: Aug 2006 Trader Rating: (14)	Re: Perrin SLS same thing as TiC 'sexy rear end' for 1/2 price? ^Ha. I don't see how the subframe would be weak enough to be effected, by the lock bolts. It's a very solid piece, and would transfer the weight between the actual frame of the car more efficently. Insted of it absorbing the sole tolerances of the weight being exherted.

04-14-2008, 06:59 AM	#29
boxtwo Gold Member Car: 07 OBP STi Fav Mod: Venison front Bumper mod Location: Pennsyltucky Posts: 1,399 Join Date: Jun 2007 Trader Rating: (2)	Re: Perrin SLS same thing as TiC 'sexy rear end' for 1/2 price? So for street and light track (HPDE ~ couple/year) how well do you think this setup works? I have been planning on geting myself a Sexy Rear End, but have not had time. Would it be better to try to get the Comfort version of the Rear Diff Mount?