Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs?

JD_STI · 11-17-2007, 03:55 PM

just installed the whiteline bolts. I followed the instructions, which said to loosten the 4 main rear subframe mounting bolts. I installed the lockout bolts and torqued them to 66ft/lbs like the directions said. But the directions didn't say the torque specs for the 4 bolts I loosened. I used my torque wrench to loosten them and they took about 100 ft/lbs to loosten. I only torqued them back to 66ft/lbs but that doesn't seem like enough. I've searched but cannot find a torque spec diagram for this assembly.

JD_STI · 11-17-2007, 05:17 PM

anyone?

mxpop · 11-17-2007, 05:22 PM

What size are the threads? (not the wrench size...)

NOTE: you will likely need an alignment after this instal. I was told not to run these as it eliminates the rubber isolation of the subframe which may cause cracks but after almost 30k miles, I have no problems and i like the better feel/control.

JD_STI · 11-17-2007, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mxpop

What size are the threads? (not the wrench size...)
\

I have no idea. I figured someone should have the diagram.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mxpop

NOTE: you will likely need an alignment after this instal. I was told not to run these as it eliminates the rubber isolation of the subframe which may cause cracks but after almost 30k miles, I have no problems and i like the better feel/control.

I planned on an alignment soon. As for the cracking, where/what exactly cracks?

Loubaru · 11-17-2007, 09:00 PM

don't know about the TQ setting, but can you give us a review after the install? i have been thinking of upgrading some of my rear diff bushing/hardware and would like to know how much these help...

***Draco-REX*** · 11-17-2007, 09:13 PM

I put in the lock bolts the same time I did my lateral link bushings. I can't say just how much of the end result was due to just the bolts, but if you're going to be under the car anyways, it's worth putting them in.

With the lat-link bushings and bolts in, the rear of the car is much more sure-footed. Bumps while turning are absorbed by the suspesion as they should be rather than causing flex and throwing off your alignment. Going through turns, the rear seems to track a tighter circle.

These are definately worth doing. The bushings and bolts really make the rear of the car feel like it should havge from the factory.. I cna't wait to get the rest of them done.

JD_STI · 11-17-2007, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CKLewis

don't know about the TQ setting, but can you give us a review after the install? i have been thinking of upgrading some of my rear diff bushing/hardware and would like to know how much these help...

I just installed a bunch of bushings all at once. I plan on doing a review on all the new stuff soon.

scotty20bsp · 11-18-2007, 03:34 PM

Tq is 66 ftlbs, did you torque them with the tires on blocks with the full weight of the car on the subframe? Thats the key. I did the whole TIC sexy rearend-clunk stopper mod on mine. Its great ,way solid.

***Turbineguy*** · 11-18-2007, 04:33 PM

I've had the lock bolts installed for over a year and it really makes a nice difference in how the rear of the car feels. I've also taken them out a few times to grease them and check for any issues and none so far. The bolts with the Klunk Killer kit makes a perfect combo.

***Neanderthal Racing*** · 11-18-2007, 05:44 PM

little ricky absolutely refused to install these on cutn edg; this from a guy who hacked almost everything else on the car with childlike enthusiasm. i didn't feel like arguing with him.

JD_STI · 11-18-2007, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scotty20bsp

Tq is 66 ftlbs, did you torque them with the tires on blocks with the full weight of the car on the subframe? Thats the key. I did the whole TIC sexy rearend-clunk stopper mod on mine. Its great ,way solid.

The whiteline bolts are 66ft/lbs. The two bolts beside them that I had to loosten are actully 96ft/lbs(according to te service manual). I also did the sexy rear-end.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbineguy

I've had the lock bolts installed for over a year and it really makes a nice difference in how the rear of the car feels. I've also taken them out a few times to grease them and check for any issues and none so far. The bolts with the Klunk Killer kit makes a perfect combo.

so far I'm liking it.

I have one question to those who have installed the bolts. I torqued them down to 66ft/lbs and there is still about a dime size thickness between the surface of the bolt head & the subframe. Is the bolt supposed to sit snug to the subframe? I also noticed a metal on metal clunk while downshifting, which feels like those two surfaces meeting. Any thoughts?

to whoever asked about how I installed them, I just slid my skinny a** under the rear with the car parked in the garage.

***Draco-REX*** · 11-19-2007, 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JD_STI

I have one question to those who have installed the bolts. I torqued them down to 66ft/lbs and there is still about a dime size thickness between the surface of the bolt head & the subframe. Is the bolt supposed to sit snug to the subframe? I also noticed a metal on metal clunk while downshifting, which feels like those two surfaces meeting. Any thoughts?

Mine had the same gap. When I was back under the car installing my catback, I checked them and I think they are now flush. So it may take a small amount of settling. I should re-torque them and see if I can get them deeper. But I don't think it's a big deal.. The Whiteline bolts have a really deep collar for the subframe, it's not going anywhere.

I did mine when I was helping document THIS how-to.

JD_STI · 11-19-2007, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Mine had the same gap. When I was back under the car installing my catback, I checked them and I think they are now flush. So it may take a small amount of settling. I should re-torque them and see if I can get them deeper. But I don't think it's a big deal.. The Whiteline bolts have a really deep collar for the subframe, it's not going anywhere.

I did mine when I was helping document THIS how-to.

So did you get the metal on metal clunking I described? I know the collar is plenty long and is beveled. If I could watch what's going on back there while shifting through the gears I would probably see the subframe compressing slightly against the chassis then decompressing and bottoming out on the lockout bolt head. At least this is what it feels and sounds like from the drivers seat. I know the bolts are to prevent the subframe from side to side movement, and I'm sure they are doing a good job at that, but if they are making all this noise it bothers me. Maybe it will just take time to set like you said. I just want to make sure I didn't do something wrong. Everytime I make an aggressive shift I get the clunk.

JD_STI · 11-19-2007, 10:32 AM

anyone else have this problem?

JD_STI · 11-19-2007, 04:00 PM

bump for answer.

11-17-2007, 03:55 PM	#1
JD_STI Spec C Club Car: 07 STI Fav Mod: Zzyzx Coilovers Location: SoCal Posts: 1,198 Join Date: Jul 2007 Trader Rating: (0)	Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? just installed the whiteline bolts. I followed the instructions, which said to loosten the 4 main rear subframe mounting bolts. I installed the lockout bolts and torqued them to 66ft/lbs like the directions said. But the directions didn't say the torque specs for the 4 bolts I loosened. I used my torque wrench to loosten them and they took about 100 ft/lbs to loosten. I only torqued them back to 66ft/lbs but that doesn't seem like enough. I've searched but cannot find a torque spec diagram for this assembly. This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.

11-17-2007, 05:17 PM	#2
JD_STI Spec C Club Car: 07 STI Fav Mod: Zzyzx Coilovers Location: SoCal Posts: 1,198 Join Date: Jul 2007 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? anyone?

11-17-2007, 05:22 PM	#3
mxpop Spec C Club Car: '06 STI Fav Mod: air freshener!!! Location: Santa barbara area Posts: 2,300 Join Date: Jan 2006 Trader Rating: (2)	Re: Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? What size are the threads? (not the wrench size...) NOTE: you will likely need an alignment after this instal. I was told not to run these as it eliminates the rubber isolation of the subframe which may cause cracks but after almost 30k miles, I have no problems and i like the better feel/control.

11-17-2007, 09:00 PM	#5
Loubaru Professional STI Racer Car: 07 OBP/Gold STi Fav Mod: DomTune & MD Whisper Location: NW, Washington Posts: 778 Join Date: Jun 2007 Trader Rating: (2)	Re: Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? don't know about the TQ setting, but can you give us a review after the install? i have been thinking of upgrading some of my rear diff bushing/hardware and would like to know how much these help...

11-17-2007, 09:13 PM	#6
*Draco-REX* Black Dragon STI Car: 07 OBP STi 03WRB WRX Fav Mod: My whole suspension Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 1,653 Join Date: Jan 2005 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? I put in the lock bolts the same time I did my lateral link bushings. I can't say just how much of the end result was due to just the bolts, but if you're going to be under the car anyways, it's worth putting them in. With the lat-link bushings and bolts in, the rear of the car is much more sure-footed. Bumps while turning are absorbed by the suspesion as they should be rather than causing flex and throwing off your alignment. Going through turns, the rear seems to track a tighter circle. These are definately worth doing. The bushings and bolts really make the rear of the car feel like it should havge from the factory.. I cna't wait to get the rest of them done.

11-18-2007, 03:34 PM	#8
scotty20bsp Junior STI Driver Car: 04 WRX STi Fav Mod: Whiteline Everything Location: Central Oregon Posts: 87 Join Date: Sep 2006 Trader Rating: (2)	Re: Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? Tq is 66 ftlbs, did you torque them with the tires on blocks with the full weight of the car on the subframe? Thats the key. I did the whole TIC sexy rearend-clunk stopper mod on mine. Its great ,way solid.

11-18-2007, 04:33 PM	#9
*Turbineguy* Non-Reformed Meth Addict Car: '06 WRB Fav Mod: A laptop and tuning software. Location: Swampbilly Central Posts: 2,387 Join Date: Feb 2006 Trader Rating: (8)	Re: Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? I've had the lock bolts installed for over a year and it really makes a nice difference in how the rear of the car feels. I've also taken them out a few times to grease them and check for any issues and none so far. The bolts with the Klunk Killer kit makes a perfect combo.

11-18-2007, 05:44 PM	#10
*Neanderthal Racing* GT R US Car: CUTN EDG project Fav Mod: $20. mudflaps from auto zone Location: my cave Posts: 5,847 Join Date: Dec 2003 Trader Rating: (1)	Re: Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? little ricky absolutely refused to install these on cutn edg; this from a guy who hacked almost everything else on the car with childlike enthusiasm. i didn't feel like arguing with him.

11-19-2007, 10:32 AM	#14
JD_STI Spec C Club Car: 07 STI Fav Mod: Zzyzx Coilovers Location: SoCal Posts: 1,198 Join Date: Jul 2007 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? anyone else have this problem?

11-19-2007, 04:00 PM	#15
JD_STI Spec C Club Car: 07 STI Fav Mod: Zzyzx Coilovers Location: SoCal Posts: 1,198 Join Date: Jul 2007 Trader Rating: (0)	Re: Whiteline sub-frame lockout bolt torque specs? bump for answer. This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.