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Old 11-18-2006, 06:52 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKIVSupra
I tried Wheel Wax and found it to work no better than a good cleaner wax. It's better than nothing, but if you have wax you use on your car, just use that. I use Klasse AIO and SG(multiple coats) on my wheels, inside and out, before I put them on for the season.

Regarding tinted windows, I use only Plexus on the tint. I use Invisible Glass on the window glass but would not use it on the tint. Oh yeah, and RainX on the outside of the windows after I clean them.
Why won't you use the Stoner glass cleaner on the tint? Just curious if that's a personal choice or if you know something about tint and stoner not mixing...

I read the label on it, didn't see anything about tint.


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Old 11-18-2006, 06:59 PM   #182
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Just finished up an Audi A4, it came out really nice.

Here are a few things I've perfected lately:

A. I use 2 buckets and 2 wash mitts. The first wash mitt is used on all body panels except underneath the door molding areas, which tend to get more dirt and road tar, for those areas I use the second wash mitt.

For the roof, I like the Meguiar's long extension brush. It makes cleaning the roof a piece of cake.


B. When applying polish, I used to apply it by putting it on the buffer pad and rubbing that on the paint. I now use a microfiber applicator to get the polish on the area I'm working on it and then using the polisher. This step sets your paint away from the crowd, it's literally feels like you just drove the car off the showroom floor.

C. The Meguiar's mild claybar was the star of the show again, taking off almost ALL road tar. I can't stress enough how awesome this product is when used correctly with Meguiar's quick detail spray. It is also important to clay the car if it needs it BEFORE polishing.

D. Another thumbs up for Meguiar's #26 wax, this should be on your shelf, even if you let someone else detail your car. You can wash it in between details and apply this wax.



* I'm going to give the California water blade a shot next. It looks like a squeegy, but you can use it on body panels. If anyone used it, please share your thoughts.
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Old 11-18-2006, 09:14 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by Peleg
* I'm going to give the California water blade a shot next. It looks like a squeegy, but you can use it on body panels. If anyone used it, please share your thoughts.
I have one. Actually I have two. Both say "The Orginal California Water Blade" but the first one was made in China and skips across the surface and leaves a mess. My neihbor has one that is much softer and looks a tad different. It works perfectly. I found one like his at wall mart and have been using it for a couple months. Its blade area is larger and softer. It was made in the USA.

The blade (USA model) is excellent at getting most of the water off of the glass and rest of the car. It does work on uneven surfaces but not very well. You have to contort it with your finger and an MF towel is just better in those areas. After wash I start with the top of the car, then all of the glass. Followed by the hood and trunk. Last is the sides and its more a quick swipe just to get as much water off as I can quickly. No sense in being to detailed at this point. Next I follow up with an MF towel. Most of the water is gone this part is pretty easy. Here's where you do the fine work and get all the spots the water blade missed.

I've used chamois in the past and the blade is much faster and cleaner. The chamois can't be used on glass unless you have two. The blade is super fast at removing a bulk of the water. Also I fumble from time to time and occasionally toss the blade on the ground. Its easy to clean the blade and be sure there's no grit or pine needles stuck in it. Try that if you drop a chamois or MF towel on the ground. Most of the time when I drop an MF towel I just through it away if it gets very dirty. Of course, follow-up with a good QD. My current favorite is Klearcote, which goes on easy and leaves a nice gloss.

I did two cars today. No time for a full polish. Washed and QD'd the STI, then washed and waxed the in-laws Camary. I was going to clay but didn't have enough time and surface didn't really need it. I used the Pinnicle bug and tar block to remove the tar. It alway feels odd to use, but works really well. In this case it cleaned up quite a bit of tar from the rocker panels and a few bugs from the front.

I waxed with Klasse AIO and a single coat of SG. I would have prefered to test on the new Detailers Pride sealant sitting out the shelf, but thier car won't get waxed in 12 months so I opted for the Klasse durability. Also I didn't have the required 12 hours of curing available. It was all topped with Klearcote quick detailer which adds some nice gloss to the otherwise mat finish of Klasse.

Per your tip in this thread I finished the tires off with Stoner. I love this stuff and the stream is so precise its easy to get the tire and miss the wheel. I've recently been getting into wheel wells and finished the wells with Stoner trim spray. The interior as well as door jams (plastic and rubber) got 303 protectant which gives a nice mat finish.

Both car's front glass finished off with RainX. I've been experimenting with application techniques and so far the one I like the best is listed on the back of the bottle. Apply two coats. Wait a while. Remove by spraying with clean water on the glass and dry with an MF towel. Its the only way that the glass comes out clean looking.

I was eager to get out the PC and do some polishing but didn't have the time or energy. I did some spot repair work on the Camary with Poorboys SSR 2.5and SSR1 by hand. I finished up as the sun was setting.
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Old 11-18-2006, 09:50 PM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg
I found one like his at wall mart
Correction, although I've seen them at Walmart I actually got the USA made version online at Autopia
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Old 11-18-2006, 09:52 PM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg
I have one. Actually I have two. Both say "The Orginal California Water Blade" but the first one was made in China and skips across the surface and leaves a mess. My neihbor has one that is much softer and looks a tad different. It works perfectly. I found one like his at wall mart and have been using it for a couple months. Its blade area is larger and softer. It was made in the USA.

The blade (USA model) is excellent at getting most of the water off of the glass and rest of the car. It does work on uneven surfaces but not very well. You have to contort it with your finger and an MF towel is just better in those areas. After wash I start with the top of the car, then all of the glass. Followed by the hood and trunk. Last is the sides and its more a quick swipe just to get as much water off as I can quickly. No sense in being to detailed at this point. Next I follow up with an MF towel. Most of the water is gone this part is pretty easy. Here's where you do the fine work and get all the spots the water blade missed.

I've used chamois in the past and the blade is much faster and cleaner. The chamois can't be used on glass unless you have two. The blade is super fast at removing a bulk of the water. Also I fumble from time to time and occasionally toss the blade on the ground. Its easy to clean the blade and be sure there's no grit or pine needles stuck in it. Try that if you drop a chamois or MF towel on the ground. Most of the time when I drop an MF towel I just through it away if it gets very dirty. Of course, follow-up with a good QD. My current favorite is Klearcote, which goes on easy and leaves a nice gloss.

I did two cars today. No time for a full polish. Washed and QD'd the STI, then washed and waxed the in-laws Camary. I was going to clay but didn't have enough time and surface didn't really need it. I used the Pinnicle bug and tar block to remove the tar. It alway feels odd to use, but works really well. In this case it cleaned up quite a bit of tar from the rocker panels and a few bugs from the front.

I waxed with Klasse AIO and a single coat of SG. I would have prefered to test on the new Detailers Pride sealant sitting out the shelf, but thier car won't get waxed in 12 months so I opted for the Klasse durability. Also I didn't have the required 12 hours of curing available. It was all topped with Klearcote quick detailer which adds some nice gloss to the otherwise mat finish of Klasse.

Per your tip in this thread I finished the tires off with Stoner. I love this stuff and the stream is so precise its easy to get the tire and miss the wheel. I've recently been getting into wheel wells and finished the wells with Stoner trim spray. The interior as well as door jams (plastic and rubber) got 303 protectant which gives a nice mat finish.

Both car's front glass finished off with RainX. I've been experimenting with application techniques and so far the one I like the best is listed on the back of the bottle. Apply two coats. Wait a while. Remove by spraying with clean water on the glass and dry with an MF towel. Its the only way that the glass comes out clean looking.

I was eager to get out the PC and do some polishing but didn't have the time or energy. I did some spot repair work on the Camary with Poorboys SSR 2.5and SSR1 by hand. I finished up as the sun was setting.
Nice. I always like reading how others detail.

I will be sure to look for the "Made in the USA" California blade...
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Old 11-19-2006, 11:07 AM   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peleg
Why won't you use the Stoner glass cleaner on the tint? Just curious if that's a personal choice or if you know something about tint and stoner not mixing...

I read the label on it, didn't see anything about tint.
Well, it's a glass cleaner, so I figured it would not be good on the tint and did not want to risk trying it. Maybe it works OK, but I really like Plexus.
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Old 11-20-2006, 11:21 AM   #187
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Don't know if this was mentioned or not, but I always do the wheels first so the car does not dry while you are working on the wheels afterwards
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Old 11-20-2006, 12:28 PM   #188
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Originally Posted by johnny--2k
Don't know if this was mentioned or not, but I always do the wheels first so the car does not dry while you are working on the wheels afterwards
I hear this from alot of people. I personally do it in this order:

1. Wash the car with water.

2. spray the wheels and let the P21S sit.

3. Wash the car with a mitt/soap.

4. Scrub the wheels with the oxo brush.

5. Wash the car from top the bottom and the wheels.


Alot of people think that if you let the soap dry for a bit it's bad. I'm using Meguiar's Gold class shampoo. It can sit there for a while and so far, I haven't noticed any issues with that after I wash it down.
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Old 11-20-2006, 02:27 PM   #189
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I have been using the real california blade for about two years. So far I haven't experienced anything bad. No extra scratches or anything. I like it so far. But usually I do it in this order:

1. Hose wheels down, spray on Hot rims, let soak for about a minute per wheel and scrub with a wheel brush. Then I hose off and rescrub if still dirty.

2. Hose car, soap that bish up and hose down.

3. Use the Cali Blade

4. Go to the interior while all the little water seaps out of the cracks

5. Get the door jams and all the rub (I believe i use meguairs for the rubber parts but looking into other stuff).

6. use meguiars step 1 paint cleaner

7. Depending on how mild or aggressive, i use either meguiars # 2 or # 7 polish

8. Then off to Meguiars Hi-tech # 26 wax.


i plan on getting the klasse sealant, but haven't had time to order it. I would show you the outcome but my dang brother still hasn't sent me the pics off his camera. And in my experience whne you build up a lot of brake dust, it can splatter on the paint, so that is why I do the wheels first.
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Old 11-20-2006, 05:01 PM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peleg
I hear this from alot of people. I personally do it in this order:

1. Wash the car with water.

2. spray the wheels and let the P21S sit.

3. Wash the car with a mitt/soap.

4. Scrub the wheels with the oxo brush.

5. Wash the car from top the bottom and the wheels.


Alot of people think that if you let the soap dry for a bit it's bad. I'm using Meguiar's Gold class shampoo. It can sit there for a while and so far, I haven't noticed any issues with that after I wash it down.
Ok, see in the first post i thought it said wash the car then the wheels so I was just thrown off by all the reading inbetween.
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Old 11-20-2006, 06:33 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psuLemon
1. Hose wheels down, spray on Hot rims, let soak for about a minute per wheel and scrub with a wheel brush. Then I hose off and rescrub if still dirty.
I also do the wheels first. This because I used to spend 15 minutes per wheel and my driveway is in the sun. Finish the wheels and work quickly with the rest of the car. Wheel time is down to about 2 minutes per wheel my new process, but old habits die hard.

I don't use wheel cleaner of any kind, only soap. I keep the wheels waxed and always finish the wash with a quick detailer. Most wheel cleaners will strip of the wax. The dust comes off with soap and a long brittled brush, followed by a quite swipe with an MF towel. Its cheaper, better for the wheels and takes less time. I do have some P21s and use it when needed. I use the same water to do the wheel wells, under the rocker panels and under the front and rear fender. Then dump and start fresh for the rest of the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by psuLemon
5. Get the door jams and all the rub (I believe i use meguairs for the rubber parts but looking into other stuff).
Try 303 aerospace protectant. You can a free sample of 6 of thier products (you pay $5 shipping) There are many other good products in this catagory. I like it because its flexible and dries to a nice mat finish. For plastic and rubber that I need glossy I have some Sonus high gloss that works really well, but goes on as thick and goopy as honey.
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Old 11-21-2006, 04:38 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg
I also do the wheels first. This because I used to spend 15 minutes per wheel and my driveway is in the sun. Finish the wheels and work quickly with the rest of the car. Wheel time is down to about 2 minutes per wheel my new process, but old habits die hard.

I don't use wheel cleaner of any kind, only soap. I keep the wheels waxed and always finish the wash with a quick detailer. Most wheel cleaners will strip of the wax. The dust comes off with soap and a long brittled brush, followed by a quite swipe with an MF towel. Its cheaper, better for the wheels and takes less time. I do have some P21s and use it when needed. I use the same water to do the wheel wells, under the rocker panels and under the front and rear fender. Then dump and start fresh for the rest of the car.



Try 303 aerospace protectant. You can a free sample of 6 of thier products (you pay $5 shipping) There are many other good products in this catagory. I like it because its flexible and dries to a nice mat finish. For plastic and rubber that I need glossy I have some Sonus high gloss that works really well, but goes on as thick and goopy as honey.
thanks greg. from my research as long as the wheel cleaner isn't an amonia based cleaner, it wont be harsh for the wheels. Cleaners that are more citrus bases will perform fairly well. I have waxed my wheels in the passed and it help a little on clean up for the next few times, but nothing dramatical. I have tried just soap but it was a PITA. I say do what works for you as there are many different types of way of cleaning. Its all preference in which brands, etc... I like a nice looking car, but I dont know a show gloss as I rather have the durability. At least in terms of waxes.


edit: Dont know if it was mentioned or not, but you should allow your car a few hours to cool down if you just drove it. If you hose down the wheels shortly after driving, it can lead to cracking or stress fractures from intense cooling.

Last edited by psuLemon : 11-21-2006 at 05:17 AM.
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Old 11-22-2006, 10:34 PM   #193
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this thread makes me guilty for being so lazy about washing the sti...
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Old 11-23-2006, 10:14 AM   #194
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Originally Posted by applehat
this thread makes me guilty for being so lazy about washing the sti...
Ha ha! Same thing here except the guilt was retroactive making me feel guilty for all the missdeads on all my other cars. After I read this thread (Thanks Peleg!) I started reading the forums at AutoPia and AutoGeek and realized all the horrible things I've been doing to my paint. The good news its never to late to change your ways. A polisher like the PC can help reverse the damage of years of neglect and had habits.
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Old 11-24-2006, 04:04 PM   #195
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I picked up a bottle of the Meguiar's #26 wax today to try out. I applied it to my wife's car after claying and polishing it. It went on and came off very easily. I will probably be switching to this given that it will not wear off in a short period of time. Thanks for the mentioning this product earlier Peleg. I also picked up some Stoner glass cleaner a few weeks ago. This stuff is by far the best glass cleaner I have ever used.


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