My Guide to Exterior Detailing

***BoostJunkie*** · 04-09-2006, 08:43 PM

Well, spring is upon us and it's getting to be that time where a good detailing is in order. Most of our cars get neglected during the winter due to salty roads and constant snow, so it's always a good idea to start out the Spring with a full detail. Here's my guide to making your car look like new. I know some people have their own way of doing it but I have been using this method forever and it works great. Plus I have worked at two different detailing shops and picked up a lot of knowledge along the way. So here goes:

1) Spray down wheels/wheel wells with a good wheel cleaner. I like to use P21S Gel Cleaner. Let them sit for a few minutes, then go through and scrub them with a regular old household sponge. Rinse them really well.

2) Mix up some Dawn and water in one bucket, and fill a second bucket with just water. Wash the car with the Dawn solution using a Sheepskin or Microfiber mitt, and dunk the mitt in the fresh water bucket to clean it often. This will make sure that you aren't grinding dirt into your paint. When you are done, rinse the car, then take off the spray nozzle and let some water flow over the whole car. The sheeting helps it to dry much more quickly.

3) Pull the car in the garage and dry it. I use The Absorber, a synthetic chamois.

4) Clay the entire car. Use some quick detailer or clay bar lubricant and a clean clay bar and do one small section at a time, making sure to keep the surface well lubricated. When the paint feels entirely smooth, move on to the next section.

5) Wash the car again to remove all of the leftover lubricant. You can just use a normal car wash soap, no Dawn is necessary. Pull it back in the garage and dry it again.

6) If you have swirls or fine scratches, now would be the time to use a swirl remover. I like 3M Swirl Remover or Meguiars Scratch-X. If you have experience using a buffer, it will make this step much more effective. Make sure to work in small sections and wipe away any excess product before moving on.

7) Use a polish/paint cleaner. I swear by Klasse All-In-One. Use a damp terry cloth or microfiber applicator and do one small section at a time. Use a bit of pressure and really work the polish into the paint, then wipe away the excess immediately. As before, do a small section at a time, then move on.

8) Use a paint sealant. I prefer Klasse Sealant Glaze, as I think it lasts a long time and looks great. Use a very small amount and lightly apply it to the whole car with a terry cloth or microfiber applicator. After covering the entire car, let it sit for about an hour. Then go back and buff it off with a microfiber towel. I have discovered a method that makes this step a lot easier and more effective. Fill a spray bottle with water and pour a capfull of Sealant Glaze in. As you buff off the SG from the car, lightly mist with the mixture. I would do 2-3 coats of this stuff, but wait 8-12 hours between coats for it to cure. I usually do one coat, then leave it overnight and finish up in the morning.

9) While you are waiting in between coats of SG, it's a good time to do the wheels and glass. For the wheels, I have used all kinds of products and they all work fine. Now I use the Klasse twins (one coat of each) and they are perfect. If you prefer to do this in one step, use something like Wheel Wax. For the tires, I have been using a silicon-based gel with a foam applicator. Apply the dressing, let it sit for awhile, then wipe it down to get rid of some of the greasy look. Recently someone recommended Poorboys tire dressing to me, as it's a cleaner/dressing and it's water based so it doesn't look greasy, so I will give that a try this year.

10) Spray down the windows with a glass cleaner. Do not use windex, especially if you have tint! Ammonia-based cleaners will damage your tint. I use Stoner foaming glass cleaner and a microfiber towel and it works very well. Once I'm done cleaning all of the glass, I put a coat of Rain-X or Aquapel on it, which helps a lot when it rains, especially on the rear windshield.

11) Go back and do another coat of Sealant Glaze. Once this has cured, you may choose to use a carnauba wax over it. This won't add much in the way of protection but it will really enhance the shine. I use Pinnacle Souveran and it's fantastic. Do one or two coats of carnauba, no real need to let it cure in between. Do one section at a time and buff it off with a microfiber towel.

12) Go back and put on the finishing touches. I like to polish my exhaust tip with a stainless polish. I use a product called Flitz and it works very well. Go over all of the badges and panel gaps with either a microfiber towel or detailing brush and make sure to get all the wax out of the nooks and crannies.

13) Step back and admire your work!

Let me know if you have any questions or if I have forgotten anything. Otherwise, good luck

And on an additional note, I buy all of my products at www.autogeek.net. They have a huge selection, good prices, fast shipping, and great customer service, I highly recommend them.

***reeksti*** · 04-09-2006, 08:49 PM

good job, im trying these steps for sure on my next detail

***SiCkSTi04*** · 04-09-2006, 09:07 PM

great write up, i'll be sure to use this info on my next detail next. just really wise i had a garage..

Peleg · 04-10-2006, 04:56 AM

Nice write up, the only thing I would change in your process is the soap you use. I wouldn't use Dawn, but rather something for automotive like Meguire's NXT soap.

***SiCkSTi04*** · 04-10-2006, 05:48 AM

i've heard dawn is good for removing old waxe jobs but shouldnt be used all the time becuase it can leaken the clear coat. i use dawn when every ever starting a new detail

***BoostJunkie*** · 04-10-2006, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Nice write up, the only thing I would change in your process is the soap you use. I wouldn't use Dawn, but rather something for automotive like Meguire's NXT soap.

I have been using Dawn for a long time with no problems. Obviously I only use it when I'm doing a full detail and want to strip off old wax. For a normal wash I use Pinnacle body shampoo.

Peleg · 04-10-2006, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoostJunkie

I have been using Dawn for a long time with no problems. Obviously I only use it when I'm doing a full detail and want to strip off old wax. For a normal wash I use Pinnacle body shampoo.

All a matter of preference my friend. I just rather use something that was designed for car paint, but whatever works.

Sonicbooost · 04-10-2006, 06:43 AM

I used to be a certified detailer and thats not a bad write up

A Wheel/buffer will DEFINITLY help and be more efficient with removing scratches and swirl marks, but dont use one if you have no experience with one.........or bye bye paint in the sharp corners.

docd187 · 04-10-2006, 07:29 AM

In the Klasse Sealant Glaze instructions, autopia.org , and properautocare.com they say to only use terry cloth applicators for the Klasse Sealant Glaze. I don't know why but that's what they say.

***BoostJunkie*** · 04-10-2006, 07:32 AM

That's what I use. A microfiber applicator should be fine as well, they are probably just trying to say not to use a foam applicator. I use terry cloth applicators for everything except the carnauba wax, which I use a foam pad for.

***MKIVSupra*** · 04-11-2006, 10:34 AM

There is really no reason for Dawn if you are going through the whole detail process. Unless you are switching to different products, but even then I don't think it is necessary. Clay and especially any cleaner/swirl remover will remove any wax that is left on the paint.

Regarding SG, I have used foam applicators to apply it. SG is not doing any cleaning so a foam pad is fine and you waste less of the product. I use foam for carnaube wax also.

docd187 · 04-12-2006, 05:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MKIVSupra

There is really no reason for Dawn if you are going through the whole detail process. Unless you are switching to different products, but even then I don't think it is necessary. Clay and especially any cleaner/swirl remover will remove any wax that is left on the paint.

Regarding SG, I have used foam applicators to apply it. SG is not doing any cleaning so a foam pad is fine and you waste less of the product. I use foam for carnaube wax also.

This is straight from autopia's website

Quote:

To applying Klasse SG, use a 100% cotton terry cloth applicator, or my favorite, the Blue Perl microfiber applicator. Do not apply Klasse SG with a foam applicator. For removal of Klasse SG, look no further than the Concours Buffing Towel.

***MKIVSupra*** · 04-12-2006, 06:58 AM

They don't give a reason not to. Just saying don't use one and then to recommend thier higher priced mircofiber applicator makes me wonder. I don't care though, use what you want. I have been applying it for a few years now with no problems.

***BoostJunkie*** · 04-12-2006, 07:23 AM

Yeah I don't know why it would make a difference but I own several terry cloth applicators and only one foam, so I use the foam for carnauba and the terry cloth for everything else. My terry applicators are on their last legs though so I just ordered a few microfiber pads...I doubt it matters but they only cost about $1 more so I figured why not. As far as Dawn, that's a good point that it's not really necessary if you are claying but I usually use it anyways. I have never found it to be harmful to the paint and it ensures that all of the old wax is stripped off the car so I can start fresh. Also, I sometimes save a little time by only claying problem spots like the front bumper, hood, and trunk, and if other areas feel smooth I don't worry about them.

blk04sti · 04-12-2006, 08:50 AM

I love washing and waxing...thats about it. I detailed the whole car maybe once...it's too long. I think I'd rather pay the detail guy the $125 for the once or twice a year full detail. But...back to the main point, those are some excellent insructions.

My add in : I spray down the tires with the tire shine before I wash the car after I wash the wheels (so STEP 2) this way you dont get tire shine on the paint

04-09-2006, 08:43 PM	#1
*BoostJunkie* Sold My Soul For Mods Car: '05 CGM STi Fav Mod: Track Time Location: Bethesda, MD Posts: 6,454 Join Date: Jun 2004 Trader Rating: (12)	My Guide to Exterior Detailing Well, spring is upon us and it's getting to be that time where a good detailing is in order. Most of our cars get neglected during the winter due to salty roads and constant snow, so it's always a good idea to start out the Spring with a full detail. Here's my guide to making your car look like new. I know some people have their own way of doing it but I have been using this method forever and it works great. Plus I have worked at two different detailing shops and picked up a lot of knowledge along the way. So here goes: 1) Spray down wheels/wheel wells with a good wheel cleaner. I like to use P21S Gel Cleaner. Let them sit for a few minutes, then go through and scrub them with a regular old household sponge. Rinse them really well. 2) Mix up some Dawn and water in one bucket, and fill a second bucket with just water. Wash the car with the Dawn solution using a Sheepskin or Microfiber mitt, and dunk the mitt in the fresh water bucket to clean it often. This will make sure that you aren't grinding dirt into your paint. When you are done, rinse the car, then take off the spray nozzle and let some water flow over the whole car. The sheeting helps it to dry much more quickly. 3) Pull the car in the garage and dry it. I use The Absorber, a synthetic chamois. 4) Clay the entire car. Use some quick detailer or clay bar lubricant and a clean clay bar and do one small section at a time, making sure to keep the surface well lubricated. When the paint feels entirely smooth, move on to the next section. 5) Wash the car again to remove all of the leftover lubricant. You can just use a normal car wash soap, no Dawn is necessary. Pull it back in the garage and dry it again. 6) If you have swirls or fine scratches, now would be the time to use a swirl remover. I like 3M Swirl Remover or Meguiars Scratch-X. If you have experience using a buffer, it will make this step much more effective. Make sure to work in small sections and wipe away any excess product before moving on. 7) Use a polish/paint cleaner. I swear by Klasse All-In-One. Use a damp terry cloth or microfiber applicator and do one small section at a time. Use a bit of pressure and really work the polish into the paint, then wipe away the excess immediately. As before, do a small section at a time, then move on. 8) Use a paint sealant. I prefer Klasse Sealant Glaze, as I think it lasts a long time and looks great. Use a very small amount and lightly apply it to the whole car with a terry cloth or microfiber applicator. After covering the entire car, let it sit for about an hour. Then go back and buff it off with a microfiber towel. I have discovered a method that makes this step a lot easier and more effective. Fill a spray bottle with water and pour a capfull of Sealant Glaze in. As you buff off the SG from the car, lightly mist with the mixture. I would do 2-3 coats of this stuff, but wait 8-12 hours between coats for it to cure. I usually do one coat, then leave it overnight and finish up in the morning. 9) While you are waiting in between coats of SG, it's a good time to do the wheels and glass. For the wheels, I have used all kinds of products and they all work fine. Now I use the Klasse twins (one coat of each) and they are perfect. If you prefer to do this in one step, use something like Wheel Wax. For the tires, I have been using a silicon-based gel with a foam applicator. Apply the dressing, let it sit for awhile, then wipe it down to get rid of some of the greasy look. Recently someone recommended Poorboys tire dressing to me, as it's a cleaner/dressing and it's water based so it doesn't look greasy, so I will give that a try this year. 10) Spray down the windows with a glass cleaner. Do not use windex, especially if you have tint! Ammonia-based cleaners will damage your tint. I use Stoner foaming glass cleaner and a microfiber towel and it works very well. Once I'm done cleaning all of the glass, I put a coat of Rain-X or Aquapel on it, which helps a lot when it rains, especially on the rear windshield. 11) Go back and do another coat of Sealant Glaze. Once this has cured, you may choose to use a carnauba wax over it. This won't add much in the way of protection but it will really enhance the shine. I use Pinnacle Souveran and it's fantastic. Do one or two coats of carnauba, no real need to let it cure in between. Do one section at a time and buff it off with a microfiber towel. 12) Go back and put on the finishing touches. I like to polish my exhaust tip with a stainless polish. I use a product called Flitz and it works very well. Go over all of the badges and panel gaps with either a microfiber towel or detailing brush and make sure to get all the wax out of the nooks and crannies. 13) Step back and admire your work! Let me know if you have any questions or if I have forgotten anything. Otherwise, good luck And on an additional note, I buy all of my products at www.autogeek.net. They have a huge selection, good prices, fast shipping, and great customer service, I highly recommend them. This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.

04-12-2006, 08:50 AM	#15
blk04sti The Next Petter Solberg Car: 2004 STI Fav Mod: All of them Location: Southern NH Posts: 873 Join Date: May 2005 Trader Rating: (0)	I love washing and waxing...thats about it. I detailed the whole car maybe once...it's too long. I think I'd rather pay the detail guy the $125 for the once or twice a year full detail. But...back to the main point, those are some excellent insructions. My add in : I spray down the tires with the tire shine before I wash the car after I wash the wheels (so STEP 2) this way you dont get tire shine on the paint This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.

04-09-2006, 08:49 PM	#2
*reeksti* Friendlys Suby Car: 06 CGM/Emotions Fav Mod: M&J Modified Location: Bensalem, PA Posts: 7,169 Join Date: Jan 2006 Trader Rating: (10)	good job, im trying these steps for sure on my next detail

04-09-2006, 09:07 PM	#3
*SiCkSTi04* RSV2/BF2142 Player Car: Subaru WRXSTi 04 JBP Fav Mod: Fixing Subie Rattles :) Location: Boynton Beach, FL Posts: 724 Join Date: Jan 2006 Trader Rating: (7)	great write up, i'll be sure to use this info on my next detail next. just really wise i had a garage..

04-10-2006, 04:56 AM	#4
Peleg STI Guru Car: 04 Subaru WRX STi Fav Mod: Whooshing sounds Location: NorCal Posts: 5,793 Join Date: Nov 2003 Trader Rating: (11)	Nice write up, the only thing I would change in your process is the soap you use. I wouldn't use Dawn, but rather something for automotive like Meguire's NXT soap.

04-10-2006, 05:48 AM	#5
*SiCkSTi04* RSV2/BF2142 Player Car: Subaru WRXSTi 04 JBP Fav Mod: Fixing Subie Rattles :) Location: Boynton Beach, FL Posts: 724 Join Date: Jan 2006 Trader Rating: (7)	i've heard dawn is good for removing old waxe jobs but shouldnt be used all the time becuase it can leaken the clear coat. i use dawn when every ever starting a new detail

04-10-2006, 06:43 AM	#8
Sonicbooost Senior STI Driver Car: 06 Steel Gray STI Fav Mod: COBB Springs Location: Waterford, Michigan Posts: 357 Join Date: Feb 2006 Trader Rating: (1)	I used to be a certified detailer and thats not a bad write up A Wheel/buffer will DEFINITLY help and be more efficient with removing scratches and swirl marks, but dont use one if you have no experience with one.........or bye bye paint in the sharp corners.

04-10-2006, 07:29 AM	#9
docd187 STI Driver Car: 05 Subaru Fav Mod: WRX STi Location: New Fairfield Posts: 274 Join Date: Nov 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	In the Klasse Sealant Glaze instructions, autopia.org , and properautocare.com they say to only use terry cloth applicators for the Klasse Sealant Glaze. I don't know why but that's what they say.

04-10-2006, 07:32 AM	#10
*BoostJunkie* Sold My Soul For Mods Car: '05 CGM STi Fav Mod: Track Time Location: Bethesda, MD Posts: 6,454 Join Date: Jun 2004 Trader Rating: (12)	That's what I use. A microfiber applicator should be fine as well, they are probably just trying to say not to use a foam applicator. I use terry cloth applicators for everything except the carnauba wax, which I use a foam pad for.

04-11-2006, 10:34 AM	#11
*MKIVSupra* Moderator Elite Car: 04 Subaru WRX STi, W Fav Mod: KartBoy SS & Bushings Location: Illinois Posts: 8,744 Join Date: Jan 2001 Trader Rating: (0)	There is really no reason for Dawn if you are going through the whole detail process. Unless you are switching to different products, but even then I don't think it is necessary. Clay and especially any cleaner/swirl remover will remove any wax that is left on the paint. Regarding SG, I have used foam applicators to apply it. SG is not doing any cleaning so a foam pad is fine and you waste less of the product. I use foam for carnaube wax also.

04-12-2006, 06:58 AM	#13
*MKIVSupra* Moderator Elite Car: 04 Subaru WRX STi, W Fav Mod: KartBoy SS & Bushings Location: Illinois Posts: 8,744 Join Date: Jan 2001 Trader Rating: (0)	They don't give a reason not to. Just saying don't use one and then to recommend thier higher priced mircofiber applicator makes me wonder. I don't care though, use what you want. I have been applying it for a few years now with no problems.

04-12-2006, 07:23 AM	#14
*BoostJunkie* Sold My Soul For Mods Car: '05 CGM STi Fav Mod: Track Time Location: Bethesda, MD Posts: 6,454 Join Date: Jun 2004 Trader Rating: (12)	Yeah I don't know why it would make a difference but I own several terry cloth applicators and only one foam, so I use the foam for carnauba and the terry cloth for everything else. My terry applicators are on their last legs though so I just ordered a few microfiber pads...I doubt it matters but they only cost about $1 more so I figured why not. As far as Dawn, that's a good point that it's not really necessary if you are claying but I usually use it anyways. I have never found it to be harmful to the paint and it ensures that all of the old wax is stripped off the car so I can start fresh. Also, I sometimes save a little time by only claying problem spots like the front bumper, hood, and trunk, and if other areas feel smooth I don't worry about them.