[SubieNewbie]

Well time goes by fast, Ive almost had my 06 for about 7 months now and some people still dont know I have another new car.

Anyway I need some exterior detailing advice. So gurus or anyone with detailing knowledge, please give me suggestions.

The day after I picked up my car I,
-Dawn washed
-Claybared
-Washed again
-Used the 3M Imperial hand glazed for new cars
-washed again
-applied 2 coats of Rejex, and then 3 more the next month

I know your supposed to apply wax once or twice a year, and next week Iam going to have a lot of spare time. I only have a few minor spiderwebs/hairlines, other than that everything looks good.

My question is, should I go thru that whole process again, plus or minus some details to remove the spiderwebs?


My car only got really dirty and caked with dirt when we had a 25 day rain streak. Ive always kept my car as clean as possible and washed whenever I had time.


As for my impressions of Rejex, the hype is that its supposed to protect your car longer than wax but not give a good shine like wax. And I believe it lives up to its reputation. Water is still beading on my hood.

After I did my 06, I did the whole process on my girls car but with a different wax. Her car stopped beading water probably on the third or fourth month. Another thing is that she rarely drives it, and only puts freeway miles on it.

[Jas0nn]

i say yes, if only because of the amount of brake dust that ends up covering our cars and gets inbedded in the paint. if you have the time, why not ...

[MKIVSupra]

No reason to go through that all again. For spider webing, if it's not that bad, just go back to the Hand Glaze step. If the webing is kind of bad you could always use a polish before the glaze. Glazes usally don't have any cleaning or polishing abilities. They usually just give the paint a more uniform, "wet" shine. Also, don't wash the car after you use the glaze. Then use a wax or Rejex in your case over the top to seal it all in.

Edit: I just reread you post and noticed that it's been 7 months since you did the whole process. If the finish is not smooth after you wash it... Rub your fingers over the surface after you wash the car and if you feel "stuff", clay it.

[VSGTS14]

if after you washed the car last and the paint felt rough...then clay bar.

you haven't polished yet if i'm mistaken....i'd say clean it good, then polish it...then wax on top of that.

[SubieNewbie]

Originally Posted by MKIVSupra

No reason to go through that all again. For spider webing, if it's not that bad, just go back to the Hand Glaze step. If the webing is kind of bad you could always use a polish before the glaze. Glazes usally don't have any cleaning or polishing abilities. They usually just give the paint a more uniform, "wet" shine. Also, don't wash the car after you use the glaze. Then use a wax or Rejex in your case over the top to seal it all in.

Edit: I just reread you post and noticed that it's been 7 months since you did the whole process. If the finish is not smooth after you wash it... Rub your fingers over the surface after you wash the car and if you feel "stuff", clay it.

The surface is still smooth on most of the car that doesnt see much dirt. I dont believe I need to clay again, but I will anyway just because it should be done once a year anyway. Ive used mothers clay because it is the only one available locally, is there a better clay out there or is clay just clay?

As for the webs, they are not that bad. You cant really see them under bright light like in the gas station, but they do show up on a really sunny day.

As far as using the glaze, the glazed that I used 7 months ago was the 3M Imperial glaze for new cars recomended here on the forums. If you read the bottle it says, apply on new car about 30 days after it has been painted.
If I glaze again, which kind or brand do I use this time?

I guess one coat of polish would remove the light webs I have so, which brand should I use that is safe?

Would this route be correct

-dawn wash and dry, to strip old wax
-clay, or not
-wash and dry again
-polish
-wash?
-glaze?
-wax

Thanks for all the info everyone!

[Nachos Libres]

If you want a product that polishes, seals, and gives your car a wet and deep look then I suggest Zaino. That way you don't have to use several different products. One coat of the stuff will last several months, but I try to do one coat a month because every coat gives a wetter and deeper look. Click on my member's journal or gallery to see the pics, and visit www.zainobros.com for more info. It will be advised that you wash your car with dawn and then claybar to remove the previous wax.

[FlyinbySTi]

Clay is not just Clay. There are different types of clay. I prefer to use something a little more aggressive then the cheap stuff you can buy at wallyworld or kmart.
http://www.meguiars.com/estore/produ...ectionID=31201

I use different products as far as waxing and polishing. I like to use KLASSE and then go over it with some NXThttp://www.autopia-carcare.com/kus-kla-10.html

[BoostJunkie]

^^I also use the Klasse twins, it's great stuff and easy to apply. I have found that 3M Swirl Remover works pretty well so if you have swirls you might give that a try and throw whatever product you prefer (Rejex, Klasse, Zaino, etc.) over that. Also I would wait awhile between coats of various products. Usually when I do Klasse I do a coat of All-In-One, wait a few hours, do another coat, and then let that cure overnight and come back with the Sealant Glaze in the morning. It helps to make sure that the product is completely cured so each coat actually stacks on top of the previous coat.

[MKIVSupra]

Originally Posted by SubieNewbie

The surface is still smooth on most of the car that doesnt see much dirt. I dont believe I need to clay again, but I will anyway just because it should be done once a year anyway. Ive used mothers clay because it is the only one available locally, is there a better clay out there or is clay just clay?

As for the webs, they are not that bad. You cant really see them under bright light like in the gas station, but they do show up on a really sunny day.

As far as using the glaze, the glazed that I used 7 months ago was the 3M Imperial glaze for new cars recomended here on the forums. If you read the bottle it says, apply on new car about 30 days after it has been painted.
If I glaze again, which kind or brand do I use this time?

I guess one coat of polish would remove the light webs I have so, which brand should I use that is safe?

Would this route be correct

-dawn wash and dry, to strip old wax
-clay, or not
-wash and dry again
-polish
-wash?
-glaze?
-wax

Thanks for all the info everyone!

I don't know if a dawn wash is necessary if you are going to clay but it probably won't hurt. I don't think there is a huge difference between clays but I would at least stick with a name brand. Here is what I would do... wash, clay, wash, and then polish, glaze, wax. No reason to wash between the polish, glaze, or wax steps.

I am also a big fan of Klasse AIO and SG. I have used 3M swirl remover also. I do like Zaino Bros on my black car though. Klasse just does not work as good on black but on WRB it works great. After a coat of AIO and mutliple coats of SG, I switch to a good carnauba wax for the rest of the summer. You could slap a few coats of Rejex on, over a period of a few days, and then put on some coats of a true carnauba wax like I do for added depth to the finish if you want.

Another thing, if you are going to put multiple coats of a sealant like Klasse or Rejex on over a few days and the car does not get real dirty, get a good quick detailer to wipe the car down between coats so you don't have to bother washing it again. I like this stuff to use with synthetic paint sealants... http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-200.html When I switch to carnauba wax I use this... http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-210.html

For any questions you have on products or techniques there are a few detailing sites to check out. Two that I use are www.properautocare.com and www.autopia.org.

[BigJon]

If you truly want to get the paint perfect....... Your gonna need a random ordital buffer....like the one from porter cable. I used to detail cars for a living in college. Wash it up very well, let it dry, claybar and lubricant, fine and microfine polishes with foam pad on buffer until scratches are removed, then high quality wax, 100% cotton wax removal bonnet on buffer to remove and set the wax, do not touch the wax coat with anything for 8 hours, going over cracks and corners are ok. Thats the cliff notes version.

Tips - Not to overstate anyone...but the only way i've found for black to stay Perfect, clean, and nice is .......heated garage, frequent sheepskin washings, zaino- zymol- or griots garage wax, random orbital buffer, good fine breakdown polish, good natural base quick detailer (griots garage), absorber drying clothes are awesome, Touchless wash is also good when you dont have time...

BIG No No's.... -california duster = leaves residue and fine spider web scratches - water blades(you need to be shot) - touching washes (just shoot yourself) - Synthetic waxes - dont ever touch your paint with anything but a sheepskin wash mit, pure cotton, or genuine microfiber - never use fabric softener on auto, wax, or polish towels either (breaks down wax)

BTW.. Make sure you guys launder your absorbers and rinse out those wash mits real well...

That's about it........ I worked at a high end detail shop for 2 years. I live by these tips..... they have never let me down anyway!

[SubieNewbie]

Originally Posted by BigJon

If you truly want to get the paint perfect....... Your gonna need a random ordital buffer....like the one from porter cable. I used to detail cars for a living in college. Wash it up very well, let it dry, claybar and lubricant, fine and microfine polishes with foam pad on buffer until scratches are removed, then high quality wax, 100% cotton wax removal bonnet on buffer to remove and set the wax, do not touch the wax coat with anything for 8 hours, going over cracks and corners are ok. Thats the cliff notes version.

Tips - Not to overstate anyone...but the only way i've found for black to stay Perfect, clean, and nice is .......heated garage, frequent sheepskin washings, zaino- zymol- or griots garage wax, random orbital buffer, good fine breakdown polish, good natural base quick detailer (griots garage), absorber drying clothes are awesome, Touchless wash is also good when you dont have time...

BIG No No's.... -california duster = leaves residue and fine spider web scratches - water blades(you need to be shot) - touching washes (just shoot yourself) - Synthetic waxes - dont ever touch your paint with anything but a sheepskin wash mit, pure cotton, or genuine microfiber - never use fabric softener on auto, wax, or polish towels either (breaks down wax)

BTW.. Make sure you guys launder your absorbers and rinse out those wash mits real well...

That's about it........ I worked at a high end detail shop for 2 years. I live by these tips..... they have never let me down anyway!

So its like

- Wash
- let dry itself and not manual dry?
- Clay
- Polish with orbital buffer
- Then let wax set?

What polishes do you recomend? I looked at my swirls again the other day and they arent too bad. They are more spread out than close together, like cars you see that you know the owners never take care of. So I cant call them webs or swirls anymore. I think they are more like surface scratches.


My dad always lets the wax sit for a day or two before removal. I used to do the same but Ive read here in the forums that you dont have to let Rejex sit for too long before you wipe it off. Iam pretty sure Ive read it somewhere here but I maybe wrong.

Thanks for the info!

[FlyinbySTi]

Wax technology has come a long way in the past few years. You don't have to let it sit that long anymore. I know NXT like 15-20 mins. Klasse is a sealent and you can let that sit till there is a light haze, usually about 10mins. Umm, if you are using a pure carnuba wax then i would let it sit a little longer then that before taking it off.

[FlyinbySTi]

Ty after some NXT

Up close

[MKIVSupra]

Originally Posted by SubieNewbie

So its like

- Wash
- let dry itself and not manual dry?
- Clay
- Polish with orbital buffer
- Then let wax set?

What polishes do you recomend? I looked at my swirls again the other day and they arent too bad. They are more spread out than close together, like cars you see that you know the owners never take care of. So I cant call them webs or swirls anymore. I think they are more like surface scratches.


My dad always lets the wax sit for a day or two before removal. I used to do the same but Ive read here in the forums that you dont have to let Rejex sit for too long before you wipe it off. Iam pretty sure Ive read it somewhere here but I maybe wrong.

Thanks for the info!

wash
clay
wash
cleaner or compound with buffer if you want
glaze/polish also with a buffer if you want
wax.

No need to let wax sit for a while, certain waxes/sealants would be almost impossible to remove if you wait too long. Do what the bottle of the product you are using recommends. If you are applying multiple coats of a synthetic product like Klasse or Rejex you should wait a day or so between coats to give the coat you just applied time to cure. As far as drying after the first wash, it does not really matter cause you are going to be claying it with a lube anyway and lubes are mainly made up of water.

If the scratches are really bad you can use various levels of compounds with a buffer. Be careful though cause you can make it worse if you don't know what you are doing. The random orbitals are pretty good and more forgiving than some of the more hardcore buffers used by pros. Using a cleaner or compound with a buffer removes scratches/swirls by removing a fine layer of paint, which is why this is something you do not want to do all the time. If your finish is not bad like you said, just use a cleaner by hand or with a buffer, or skip this step all together and go right to a polish/glaze. Using a cleaner by hand will be a good workout though. When you are happy with how the finish looks after you use a cleaner or compound, follow up with a good polish to get the shine back in the finish. Since a cleaner/compound removes some paint it can make the surface look dull so you need to polish it to get the shine/wet look back. BTW, the names of products are used pretty randomly from company to compay, polish and glaze are usually the same thing or pretty similar in their results. I have never used a glaze, just polishes. Then seal it all in with a good wax or synthetic. There is nothing wrong with using synthetic waxes/sealants. They last a long time and protect better than any true wax will. You just wont get the look of a good carnauba wax. Which is why I put a few coats of Klasse SG on and then a few coats of carnauba wax.

I typed this pretty quick during lunch at work and might not have been very clear. Check out those sites I mentioned before for how to's and recommended products. The autopia one has a forum you could join and ask questions there if you want.

[SubieNewbie]

Thanks a lot for the advice MKIV. It was very clear. I do usually wait a day before I apply the rejex. This time Iam going to try the carnuba over the rejex to see if I get more of a shine. White is such a pain to wax
Still trying to decide on what glaze/polish I want to use.

Thanks gain for all the advice everyone.