[Wazazell]

I doubt you'll find Rejex in any local stores. I got mine online, there is a thread on here somewhere with a link to a dealer that is doing special pricing for forum members, search for it. If I understand correctly Rejex is pretty popular for use on boats, so it might be found in marine supply stores or boat dealers??

[SubieNewbie]

Originally Posted by Wazazell

There was nothing I could do about the spots, so I broke out the 3m polish and started buffing. It was a lot of work, I didn't use an electric buffer, but the car was smooth as silk. I could easily tell where I had and hadn't done by wiping a rag over the paint. It would skim over the car like an air hockey puck and then stick to the spots I missed.

Once I was satisfied with the polish job, I blew the car down with compressed air to remove all the polishing dust, washed again with the Meguires Gold Class, dried with the microfiber towels, blew the car dry with a leaf blower, and pulled back into the garage to start the Rejex.

I blew the car down after polishing really good until no polish was visible in any crack but, is another wash required? Would it hurt?

[wundej]

Originally Posted by KDSTI

i always understood that a polish and a clay bar is really the same thing.. i clay bared my car and it took forever and really wasnt amazed by the end results i think its cause the car isnt even a year old but anyways next time i wax im goin to wash with a wax remover, polish the car, then use rejex.. where can i find rejex at a local autozone?

Clay is NOT a polish. Clay will remove most of the contamination you may have on your clear coat, although it is somewhat abrasive, you are not using it as a compound or polish (or at least I hope you aren't).

Polish, rubbing compounds, waxes, all do different things...so do claybars.

You should have seen the clay getting dirty as you used it, that is all the crap that was stuck in your paint.

Read this for more info on what clay does for you and how to do it.

[Wazazell]

I had my RockBlocker installed this weekend. It looks awesome and I'm really really really glad I didn't attempt the install myself!! Got my windows tinted too, 35% all around, I'll post some pics when I get a chance.

Anyways, at the installation I met a guy with a '05 OBP STi and he had the same spots on his roof and hood that I do!! He said he picked his car up in Rhode Island, so despite his being '05 and mine '06 its unlikely that our cars were ever stored/transported/prepped/etc together. I'm starting to think the spots are a factory problem!! I took some pictures for evidence I'm compiling to talk to SOA. If anybody has seen these same marks, take some pictures and let me know!!

[Wazazell]

Here's some quick pics I took today, they show my new tint and RockBlocker... or rather they don't show the RockBlocker!!

The tint and RockBlocker were both installed by Lee Berrebi of Applied Film Technologies in NJ. He came down to Maryland this weekend to do the install for me and a couple other people. He's a great guy and does great work. I believe the Rockblocker kit was about 19 individual pieces, including headlights.

First pic is before install. You can barely see a hairline of the RockBlocker on the front fender in the second pic, and the third pic shows one of the only 2 spots where the kit didn't go on very well. I'll probably slice the corner and try to stick it down, but it may be too dirty now to stick, in which case I'll just trim the corner off.

[turbosmitty]

I'll be starting my Rejex project this weekend. I just got my detailing stuff in the mail the other day; Blackfire Poly Clay kit, German 2 side polish/wax mit, 3M imperial Hand glaze, Micro fibre washmit (this think works awesome) and Rejex. I'm really impressed with all the stuff that came with the poly clay kit. It includes 2 poly clay bars in a plastic case, clay bar cleaner/preserver, nice looking micro fibre towel and clay lube.

I've got a craftsman electric buffer that I've had for a while. Would that be good to use for taking off the hand glaze?

[BrigadoonB]

In got to try some of this REJEX stuff!!

[Wazazell]

Turbosmitty,

Be SURE to check your paint under a fluorescent light before claybarring. All those spots on my roof really became apparent after I started claybarring. If you see any spots on your roof or hood, I'd skip the clay bar. You could probably still do the bumper and sides of the car.

One thing about the Rejex though, it's a pain to clean out of the applicator. I used a microfiber applicator and almost had to boil it to get the Rejex out.

[turbosmitty]

Originally Posted by Wazazell

Turbosmitty,

Be SURE to check your paint under a fluorescent light before claybarring. All those spots on my roof really became apparent after I started claybarring. If you see any spots on your roof or hood, I'd skip the clay bar. You could probably still do the bumper and sides of the car.

One thing about the Rejex though, it's a pain to clean out of the applicator. I used a microfiber applicator and almost had to boil it to get the Rejex out.

When I claybarred the car last time I didn't see any major spots. I did see a spot or two on the hood that's under the clear coat, but they're not that bad under the fluorescent lights in my garage. I used the Mothers claybar last time. I wonder if this blackfire setup is better?

Thanks for the headsup on the applicator. I'll just use it to apply the hand glaze. Would I be better of just taking off the hand glaze with a microfiber towel instead of using the electric buffer with a terry clothe pad?

I'll be putting my car into storage for 3 years, so that's mainly why I'm doing a thorough detail on my car. Just need to find a good cleaner for engine bay and undercarage now.

[wundej]

Originally Posted by Wazazell

the third pic shows one of the only 2 spots where the kit didn't go on very well. I'll probably slice the corner and try to stick it down, but it may be too dirty now to stick, in which case I'll just trim the corner off.

Try some water/alcohol on the dirty part and try to get that to stick again, otherwise a steady hand/razor blade should take care of it.

[Wazazell]

Originally Posted by turbosmitty

I wonder if this blackfire setup is better?

Would I be better of just taking off the hand glaze with a microfiber towel instead of using the electric buffer with a terry clothe pad?

I used the Blackfire claybar kit. It was my first claybar experience, and the results didn't turn out well for me, but I'm not blaming it on the clay bar but rather on Subaru's crappy paint job! Seems like a nice kit though, and I'll probably use it on my '69 Camaro if I ever get around to washing it again.

I didn't, nor ever have used an electric buffer, so I can't really recommend what you should use. But, if there's a way to apply and remove with the buffer, go for it. It took a long time and a lot of energy to do my polish job.

Good luck, make sure you take some pics when you finish!

[F4yoshi]

Well, after about 2 weeks, I finally washed my car for the first time post-Rejex. Car had only been driven about 3 times though, otherwise it's been sitting in my garage. Taking it for a long drive tomorrow, though, so I figured I might as well make her look her best.

First I used a toothpick to get off the excess Rejex from the edges of my clear bra.

I used the Meguire's Soft Wash Gel and plenty of water with a microfiber mitt to wash. Then dried with a microfiber towel.

First impression -- man does this stuff repel water. The first 3 or 4 passes with the microfiber towel I was basically just pushing the beaded water off the car. All the glass was super slick too (had applied 3 coats of Rejex to the entire car, wheels and glass included). So after going over the whole car, panel by panel, a few times, the car was completely dry and felt as smooth as when the Rejex was first applied. Mind you, the car was not that dirty at all...mostly just dusty.

A good portion of the brake dust came off with a good spray from the hose, but I also wiped down the wheels to get rid of the rest.

[Bunghollio]

i also have something that looks like a water spot but ive tried everything to get it off it wont come off i think its the clearcoat of the car f4yoshi can you help me out

[turbosmitty]

Wazazell,

I was really impressed with the claybar results last time I used it. The surface felt nice and smooth after I was through. I'll do a test run with the kit to see how it does. If I'm not that impressed with the results I'll just press on with polishing instead. I did find out from a friend that I would have better results using a high speed buffer to apply the polish then I would using a buffer to take it off. He said it will save me some time but I'll be going through several buffing pads, since the polish will start to cake up on the terry clothe material. I'll stick with using elbow grease instead.

I noticed several people using the mequires soft wash gel. Should I grab a bottle of that too?
Thanks for reminding me about taking some before and after pictures.

[turbosmitty]

Jackpot!!!!!! This Rejex stuff is awesome!!!! Just got done applying the first coat. Now I see what I'll the hype's about. I wish I would have known about this stuff a long time ago. I'll post more feedback later, I need to get some sleep now.