[Ol'SaltyBastard]

I saw this in the store, so I went ahead and bought a bottle, since my car really needed a waxing.

I started out with washing and then claybar(ing) the entire car. I went ahead and washed it one more time just for good measure. I then waxed the entire car (in the garage, out of direct sunlight.) That stuff took out about 95% of the swirl marks left from automatic car washes (winter washing.) It went on really easy, and came off with no problems. I went through about six lint free towels to take it all off, but the results were certainly worth while.

I was going to make an attempt to wet sand the entire car, to remove the orange peel on the clear coat. I only did a small area underneath the car, but was not thrilled with the outcome (hence why I did an area you really can't see.) I used 2000 grit sandpaper, but I think that may have even been too much.

Anyhow, I just wanted to post my results using Meguiars Tec Wax. Two rums up from OSB!!

[shftat6]

Where were you wet sanding? Is wasn't the lower part of the door was it? That area is textured, meant to help protect against debris thrown up from the rdwy. (but the stuff makes the paint look like it has a bad case of orange peel)

[raindance]

Yeah, it's good wax. I use it. My only gripe with it is that it doesn't last very long. If you use the "NXT Spray Wax" booster for it you'll get more longevity. BTW, use the "NXT Speed Detailer" for a quick wipedown. The whole NXT line is basically pretty good stuff. Easy on, lasts an ok amount of time and does a good job covering slight swirls and blemishes. Does no harm to the finish either. I like it.
-rain-

[Hawker]

I'm a satisfied Next Gen Tech Wax user myself. Great stuff. I can put the bottle (after waxing) on the roof or hood and it won't stay, it slides off. Pretty cool.

[BluSTi]

Personally, I like the Zymol Japon wax. I've used it twice and it buffs up like nothing else. Makes me happy!!

[Ol'SaltyBastard]

Originally Posted by shftat6

Where were you wet sanding? Is wasn't the lower part of the door was it? That area is textured, meant to help protect against debris thrown up from the rdwy. (but the stuff makes the paint look like it has a bad case of orange peel)

Nope, I did a little bit behind the rear wheel (not where the textured stuff is though.) I really wanted to do the hood and doors, but when I saw the results of the small test area, I wasn't too thrilled about it.


Thanks for the tips on longevity of the wax. I usually wax twice a year; once in the fall and once in the spring. I got lazy this year and kind of let it go. I'll hit it again before the heavy salting of the roads begin.

[TIMELESS]

I bought the Meguire's Gold class wax and the Tech Wax. After using both I think that the Gold class stays on longer than the Tech Wax. After a wash or two the Tech Wax is gone whereas the Gold Class would last probably double the washes. My two cents.

[VSGTS14]

it's good but expec to see those swirels after two washes

[TIMELESS]

swirl marks are inevitable...black only brings them out more

[RadarOnPaws]

Originally Posted by VSGTS14

it's good but expec to see those swirels after two washes

You can minimize that with good wash equipment and procedures. Most people make it worse than it needs to be.

Ol'SaltyBastard, next time you wax, use a bottle of race glaze polish first... that stuff is incredible. I've never seen swirls and light scratches disappear so quickly. Follow that up with your Meguiar's NXT and you'll be amazed.

[Crewchief]

Were can you buy this race glaze polish?

[Davenow]

I had a buddy of mine show me how to PROPERLY wash my new OBP STI.
If you want to minimize swirling, its all in the washing technique.
Here is what I leared and how I do it now.

I use 2 buckets, 1 soapy water, 1 straight water
NEVER let the mit sit in the bucket, drape it over the side, it it sinks and touches the bottom, it gets all the dirt you into it and you should give the mit a VERY good rinse out before touching your car with it. I use the fake sheepskin mit from autozone.
Dip mit in soapy water, wipe over car, use STRAIGHT lines and DONT PUSH DOWN. Let the weight of the mit do the work, your hand shouldnt physically touch the car if at all possible, let the mit and gravity do the work. Flip the mit over after a bit , dont do big sections with each dip, do a small part at a time. Then, take the mit, dip it into the rinse bucket, and slosh it around a bit to get the crap out of it. Then go to the soap bucket and repeat the first part.
Start at the top, save the lower door panels and such for last, maybe even use a different mit for them, and they will have MUCH more abrasive crap stuck to them to get into the mit, and especially when doing those areas rinse the mit often and use lots of care not to drag big sections of dirt across large panels.
Dont bother washing the windows , leave them dirty for now.
Dry the car, use a real chamious(sp?) or the nice synthetic foamy ones. Again, dont press down if at all possible. Leave the windows wet, or dry them with a different towel, dont clean them just get the water off so it doesnt run down the dry panels.
Dry the car in straight lines as much as you can.

OK so the car is mostly dry, and the windows are still dirty

Glass cleaner. I like the STONER stuff myself, seems to streak the least. The BEST possible thing to use to clean windows is newspaper. So spray the cleaner on and go to work with a big wad of newsprint paper. If you havent done it before, you will be shocked at how well it works. It also doesnt lint all over like papertowels.

You will get some drip marks and such from water in the cracks/mirros, so I just carry a microfiber towel with me and some instant detailer or my techwax/applicator to remove them.


Oh and when waxing, remove the wax in straight lines as much as possible.

The less things that touch your car while going in a circular motion, the less swirl marks you are going to have.