[AK_2005_STi]

i let the rejex cure for its 12 hours, and wow, i never knew that WRB could shine so bright in the sun. so far i'm happy with it. just gotta wait and test how good the stuff really is, once the car gets dirty.

[bah14]

Originally Posted by AK_2005_STi

i let the rejex cure for its 12 hours, and wow, i never knew that WRB could shine so bright in the sun. so far i'm happy with it. just gotta wait and test how good the stuff really is, once the car gets dirty.

lol yea the 12 hours is very important. I haven't used a wax in a while. but last night i detailed a Dinan M5 with the new turtle wax stuff... looked really good, but i still prefer rejex. I can only image the extra smooth glassy feeling has something to do with the silicone oil in most waxs ... since rejex doesnt use it (and for good reason), i can only imagine this is part of the reason....

But like you said.... "after 12 hours of curing...WOW!" ;-)

[Slowride]

RejeX is loaded with silicone. This anti-silicone-oil crusade is pure FUD.

[bah14]

maybe.....but the tech at corrosionX make it very clear that the product will not work as well if applied over a wax, glaze or polish containing silicone-oil.

btw: what crusade?

[Slowride]

Originally Posted by bah14

maybe.....but the tech at corrosionX make it very clear that the product will not work as well if applied over a wax, glaze or polish containing silicone-oil.

RejeX is between 1% and 10% silicone. The person you corresponded with claims RejeX is incompatible with finishes containing silicone oils. It's possible that's RejeX's silicone is thicker than an oil (say a grease or possibly a wax). But even if that's the case, it's still chemicaly similar and any residual silicone oil on the finish from another product should easily be incorporated into RejeX due to its silicone content.

btw: what crusade?

Corrosion Tech's campaign to smear products containing "evil" silicone oils. It strongly implies that RejeX is silicone-free, which it isn't. If silicone products are so bad for the finish (they repeat the difficulty-of-repainting claim, for example), then they should remove them from their own product. And the repainting claim is exaggerated, too. Silicone finish products are very common, and refinishers know how to deal with them by removing the silicone with solvents or sanding or by using an anti-fisheye additive.

To repeat for latecomers: I think RejeX is a decent product, but I think the claims of durability and "dirt resistance" are exaggerated. I encourage people to try it for themselves and report back. My results and your results are just two data points. We need lots more before we can draw any conclusions.

[Wazazell]

any more updates from the Rejex users? I'm looking for something for my '06, and I want to start off right... bump for updates!!

[shftat6]

I'm still very happy with it, I would certainly recommend it.

[Slowride]

I think some of the vendor's claims are exaggerated, but I don't think it's a bad product--comparable to NXT for me in terms of durability and ease of use. I'd say give it a try and let us know what you think.

[Wazazell]

ordered a 16oz last night via the forum discount link. now I just gotta get some 3m compound, claybar, and something to remove the adhesive residue from the paint protection film that the dealer didn't remove like they were supposed to when they "prepped & detailed" my car...

[bah14]

Originally Posted by Wazazell

ordered a 16oz last night via the forum discount link. now I just gotta get some 3m compound, claybar, and something to remove the adhesive residue from the paint protection film that the dealer didn't remove like they were supposed to when they "prepped & detailed" my car...

I've used 3m compound, swirl-remover polish, hand glaze and rejex since my car had 17 miles on it. I'll never use anything else. Especially with a brand new paint job.

I'd use goo gone to get rid of the adhesive. I use it when removing decals

[AK_2005_STi]

yeah, the rejex only lasted like a month on my car. maybe i need to do 2 coats.

[Wazazell]

well, I got all my supplies in and spent about 6 hours washing my car yesterday. I started by washing the entire car with Dawn, then I washed each facet (roof, hood, trunk/wing, front bumber, rear bumper, left & right sides) of the car indiviually and dried with a microfiber towel, and then used goo gone to remove any adhesive residue/bug juice/tar/etc, then rewashed with dawn, redried and inspected again, more goo gone if necessary, then rewash and move to the next facet. When I was done doing all sides, did a quick final wash, towel dry, and power dry with a leaf blower.

Today I'll be clay barring, then I suppose I'll have to wash after that with Meguires Gold Class, then I've got some 3M swirl remover... wash again? haha.... then probably a good power dry, let it sit a couple hours and begin the Rejex treatment.

I can pretty much bet that by about 4pm today, I will have the cleanest STi in the world!! haha, i hope it lasts!

[shftat6]

Damn, you are really going full bore.

[2xtreme]

Don’t waste that much time on it. Just to the 3M polish and then the rejex. When you’re finished with the polish there won’t be anything left on the paint. If you wash a car and use anything other then distilled water in a dust free room you will always have a residue on the paint. A good 3M polish and a light dusting will get the paint as clean as possible. I have noticed the rejex holds up very well in the Las Vegas heat but looses some of its non-stick qualities after a few weeks. Now it is about as good as Meg’s 3 step process but still going strong.

[MKIVSupra]

Damn Wazazell, way overboard on the washing. Wash it, clay it, wash it, polish it, wax it, thats it. You can do that all in one day.