[wrxcelration]

Yesterday I realized my car needed some TLC, so I decided I would do a full exterior detail. All by hand as I never learned how to use a buffer.

The initial appearance of the car was clean but upon further inspection it needed an overhaul. The paint was rough and bumpy to the touch and had orange rail dust on the doors and trunk.

My arsenal
-Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash
-Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit
-Meguiar's Quick Detail
-Meguiar's Cleaner Wax (step 1)
-Meguiar's Polish (step 2)
-Meguiar's Nxt Generation Tech Wax
-Microfiber Wash mitt, cloths, application pads
-P21s Gel
-Stoner Invisible glass
- Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream

I first sprayed the wheels w/ P21s and washed the car. I cleaned the wheels using a stiff brissle brush and a toothbrush.With the car completely dry, I pulled it in the garage and inspected the paint. As stated, rough paint and rail dust. I broke out the clay bar and started going to town. 2hrs later I was done and the paint was smooth but some rail dust remained although a lot less than before. I then went over the entire car w/ quick detail to get the car completely clean. Next was the cleaner wax. It removed more of the rail dust and any leftover particles from claying, gave a nice shine to the paint and made the paint even smoother. Once removed I followed w/ the polish, which gave a brighter shine. I then followed w/ the tech wax. Only one coat as my arm was too tired for two. I then cleaned the windows w/ the invisible glass and polished the exhaust w/ the blue magic

10hrs later and one dead arm the car was finally finished; exterior and door jams. Interior is saved for tomorrow. The car came out great and the paint is smooth as ever. Well worth the tedious task. Here are some pics of the car finished.

[CavalierGoesWayFastMan]

WOW! probibly one of the cleanest silver STi's I've ever seen. Nice job man!

[chargedvette02]

Wish mine looked that good.

[tyler_sti]

Looks great. silver on silver= sex.

[RFFG]

whoa, nice work!!

[Yankeeballer13]

lookin pretty good!

[wrxcelration]

Thanks a lot guys. I truly appreciate it. I have some silver 57fs waiting to be put on and T2s coming in next week.

Heres a pic of the 57fs

[amg destroyer]

I truly respect doing that all by hand....I remember the days before I got my PC . Your arm gets sooo tired.

Good work! It's not easy to make CGM STi's look shiny and reflective.

[DetailersDomain.com]

by hand you did a great job!

[wrxcelration]

Originally Posted by amg destroyer

I truly respect doing that all by hand....I remember the days before I got my PC . Your arm gets sooo tired.

Good work! It's not easy to make CGM STi's look shiny and reflective.

Its PSM...Thanks for the comment

[wrxcelration]

Originally Posted by DetailersDomain.com

by hand you did a great job!

Thanks. I know it probably would have came out better w. a PC or flex but I think it came out really well by hand

[Smoke]

Originally Posted by wrxcelration

Thanks. I know it probably would have came out better w. a PC or flex but I think it came out really well by hand

Better than really well, car looks awesome. Great job

[wrxcelration]

Thanks Smoke

[WideOpen&Sideways]

Looks great! nice and shiny. Almost looks brand new!

A tip ...

Next time around, you'll want to opt for a proper fallout remover (acid bath and alkaline wash) to take care of that rail dust. The clay bar is NOT designed for that purpose and as you found out, does not take care of the problem. Industrial fallout starts as dust, yet when it meets dew or water, a chemical reaction occurs and the dust then embeds itself into your paint and begins to form rust. Using a clay bar only breaks off the head of the particle, leaving the base still embedded in your paint. This gives the particle the opportunity to react to dew or water once again, and the process repeats itself.

A proper acid bath will dissolve the particle and any remnants right down to the base, and the alkaline wash will stop the corrosive properties of the acid. This method is perfectly safe for all clear coat finishes and is used widely among professional detailers. You can get Industrial fallout remover at most Automotive Detailing retail stores, at a cost of under $15 on ave.
Takes about 5 minutes per panel, and you don't have to polish or scrub. Just dab on with a microfiber cloth, wait 5 minutes, than wipe off with another microfiber cloth containing your alkaline wash. Easy peasy. I feel sorry for the people who spend hours trying to remove industrial fallout with a claybar .....

An example of Fallout Remover Products:
CarBrite

Cheers!

[wrxcelration]

Originally Posted by WideOpen&Sideways

Looks great! nice and shiny. Almost looks brand new!

A tip ...

Next time around, you'll want to opt for a proper fallout remover (acid bath and alkaline wash) to take care of that rail dust. The clay bar is NOT designed for that purpose and as you found out, does not take care of the problem. Industrial fallout starts as dust, yet when it meets dew or water, a chemical reaction occurs and the dust then embeds itself into your paint and begins to form rust. Using a clay bar only breaks off the head of the particle, leaving the base still embedded in your paint. This gives the particle the opportunity to react to dew or water once again, and the process repeats itself.

A proper acid bath will dissolve the particle and any remnants right down to the base, and the alkaline wash will stop the corrosive properties of the acid. This method is perfectly safe for all clear coat finishes and is used widely among professional detailers. You can get Industrial fallout remover at most Automotive Detailing retail stores, at a cost of under $15 on ave.
Takes about 5 minutes per panel, and you don't have to polish or scrub. Just dab on with a microfiber cloth, wait 5 minutes, than wipe off with another microfiber cloth containing your alkaline wash. Easy peasy. I feel sorry for the people who spend hours trying to remove industrial fallout with a claybar .....

An example of Fallout Remover Products:
CarBrite

Cheers!

Will this work even w/ the new coat of polish and wax I just applied? I assume I would have to reapply the polish and wax after.