[WolfPlayer]

Originally Posted by R4ND0M_AX3

I'm wondering if the problem is related to being near target boost or beyond some hi limit that we don't yet know about.

Can you try a few runs with stock-like boost targets to see if it does the same thing?

Any long hills in your area so you can see if continuous fixed level boost runs rich or if the richness startes to lean out after some retardly long decay time?

I could try some of that stuff later. The next test is using very low TPS enrichment. If it has to do with this table then I will see something. The car has already been flashed. I'm too sick/tired to go for a drive right now so I'll save that for tomorrow morning and report back ASAP.

t

[WolfPlayer]

Ok. I cut the tip-in table drastically. We're talking on the order of 1/2. Yes, that is a lot - lol. I saw no difference in WOT fueling on spoolup. On max boost the AFRs dipped into the low 9's, car stutters, etc. Frustrating to say the least.

Some things we know: FMIC can be tuned on the STI without an issue. Thus, there has be something weird going on with my car.

So, where do we go from here? Well, I form theories of why this is happening and I find a way to test it. Here are some theories and some tests ...

Theory 1
Hypothesis: The calibration is somehow messed up internally and not evident via the view of the tables. A bit somewhere is off and it's making this happen.
Test: Grab a new base image. Make the normal modifications. Flash.
Thoughts: It is highly improbable that this is true but it is worth a test.

Theory 2
Hypothesis: Boost leak at high PSI that is not evident under vacuum (because my AFR learned/immediate looks great). Boosting to 10-14 psi is fine too. It's the 20psi that is an issue.
Test: Cap the connection at the turbo. Cap the connection at the TB. Fill piping/intercooler with 25psi and see if it holds. I have to get some stuff from Home Depot to do this test.
Thoughts: The T-Bolts are tightened down like a mofo. I even double checked them later. Furthermore, this wouldn't explain the huge bump in BPW for the injectors when I hit the 9.x AFRs.

Theory 3
Hypothesis: For some unknown reason, I am now blowing out the spark.
Test: I have a set of new NGK Copper Plugs. I can gap them to the recommended 0.028" and see what happens. FWIW, I am currently running the NGK LFR7AIX plugs (one step colder) and everything has been fine.
Thoughts: Easy test. Doesn't explain the BPW jump.

Theory 4
Hypothesis: None.
Test: Put the TMIC back on and see what happens.
Thoughts: Relatively easy test. If this works then it will show the plugs should be good and the calibration should be ok (no misplaced bits).

Theory 5
Hypothesis: BOV can't hold the pressure.
Test: New BOV.
Thoughts: Can't think of why this would be an issue since it was fine with the TMIC.

If anyone has any thoughts please jump in. Currently, I am thinking to jump immediately to Theory #4 to see if the car still runs fine with the TMIC and this tune and the BOV.

t

[Siegel Racing]

Pressure test by capping inlet and using a regulator to fill from one of the vacuum lines on the inlet. Cheap, easy, and you'll be amazed at what you find leaks.

If maf voltage jumps and boost doesn't chances are you are leaking something. It pulls a bunch of air past the maf, sprays fuel for it, and blows it out the leak. Hence rise in maf voltage, IDC, load, etc (anything that's maf based) but no rise in boost actually going into the motor = rich.

SS

[WolfPlayer]

Originally Posted by Subaru of Gwinnett

Pressure test by capping inlet and using a regulator to fill from one of the vacuum lines on the inlet. Cheap, easy, and you'll be amazed at what you find leaks.

If maf voltage jumps and boost doesn't chances are you are leaking something. It pulls a bunch of air past the maf, sprays fuel for it, and blows it out the leak. Hence rise in maf voltage, IDC, load, etc (anything that's maf based) but no rise in boost actually going into the motor = rich.

SS

SS,

I appreciate your input. I'm really leaning toward a leak somewhere - post turbo on the pressure side.

With the test you mentioned, you said to just cap the inlet. Do you mean cap the intake somewhere PRE-turbo inlet and don't cap anywhere else? This would pressurize the crankcase too. Don't I just want to pressurize the post-turbo inlet tubing?

I was thinking that I would need to remove the charge pipe from the TB and cap that. Then I need to remove the charge pipe from the turbo, cap it, put a valve on that cap, and fill it there.

Thoughts?

t

[Siegel Racing]

Check this out:

Anyone have some good info on pressure testing?

This is what I normally use. I was in FL last week and one guy had bought some 3" Caps from Home Depot. They were 48 cents each, yellow plastic caps for capping cardboard tubes. I ground the lip down to 1/8", jammed it into the silicone coupler from inlet to intake and put a hose clamp on it.

THen I just ran the regulator to the vacuum nipple on the inlet and cranked it up.

I pressurize everything. If there is anyting attached to the inlet that it leaking that could cause an "un-metered" air into the motor situation.

Check that other thread and let me know. I'm trying to get some pics of that cheaper setup. When I get them, I'll post them.

SS

[Guest_1u53r]

here's what I use:



you can borrow it if you want, Tim.

[WolfPlayer]

I just got back from Home Depot and Poop Boys. I have the parts to assemble Nick's setup - AND I have the parts to assemble SS's setup. That should give me enough flexibility to test whatever. I'll test when I can.

t

[KiTsuNe]

I don't know if this will help, but i know that a couple people and i changed out our inlet, they all had cracks in them. Good luck!

[WolfPlayer]

Originally Posted by KiTsuNe

I don't know if this will help, but i know that a couple people and i changed out our inlet, they all had cracks in them. Good luck!

Anything pre-turbo isn't really going to matter (IMHO) in the context of my issue. Basically, I have air that has been measured that is NOT getting into the motor. A cracked inlet would be air NOT measured that is getting into the motor. A cracked inlet will give lean readings due to the unmetered air. I have really rich readings on spoolup max boost.

t

[crystal_Imprezav]

Uh ohh: Sneak peak



And oh yea the paperweight:



Still waiting on the BPV adapter for the FMIC. I will post up some results hopefully by the weekend.

[WolfPlayer]

Awesome. You didn't cut out the black bar-thingy under the license plate?

t

[JJ18Sniper]

Originally Posted by WolfPlayer

Awesome. You didn't cut out the black bar-thingy under the license plate?

t

Agreed... I haven't seen the black plastic piece below the license plate retained before.

[WolfPlayer]

Updates:

1) I assembled the pressure testers last night. I made one like Nick's for the turbo inlet. I made one similar to SS's (but using a simple 2" plug and receiver) to plumb into the FMIC setup. It was too late to test (compressor is so loud) so no results yet.

2) Finally a log for you guys. The more and more I look at the data the more and more I don't think it is mechanical. You can easily see that the ECU is jacking up the IPWs. This could be attributed to a boost leak (MAF V jack up, etc), but the boost goes up too. Also, you can see in the log that I can run 20psi and it holds fine. Just the spoolup is weird. It's when the load skyrockets. How knows - lol. I just need to pressure test this thing to rule that out.

3) This run was done with a NEW base map to ensure nothing weird was in the map and nothing got corrupted. This map also contains Cobb's recommended settings for the 720 injectors, the Tip-In, and the FIBET (40, -70%).

t

[crystal_Imprezav]

Originally Posted by WolfPlayer

Awesome. You didn't cut out the black bar-thingy under the license plate?

t

I kept it to keep it more sleeper. I personally like the way it looks more stock like. I may get some black mesh grill since I don't want to spray paint the core. BTW dremel and hacksaw FTL. Kitchen steak knife FTW. Best cutting tool I have ever used. After the dremel was messy and slow, and my fingers cut tired from the hacksaw blade, I grabbed a steak knife from the kitchen and it works like a hacksaw/razor. Makes really clean cuts too, lol.

[crystal_Imprezav]

Tim, you wanna email me your map so I can take a look at it. My suspicion is that you are running too rich of a afr, at lower rpm's which is causing an even richer spool with the FMIC being that the track is longer. Since you were running close to a 10.3:1 before, it really doesn't surprise me that your dipping into the 9's now.