TXS Knocklite Sensitivity and ECU Knock - Page 2

crystal_Imprezav · 09-25-2006, 06:24 PM

Also just wanted to add, make sure all your heat shield bolts are tight, and etc. I have found that the slightest sign of a loose bolt (i.e. a little loose heat shield bolt after the egt install, which was tight but loosend ever so lightly) would cause false detection by the knocklite, ecu, or a combination of both.

TheMadScientist · 09-26-2006, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crystal_Imprezav

Also just wanted to add, make sure all your heat shield bolts are tight, and etc. I have found that the slightest sign of a loose bolt (i.e. a little loose heat shield bolt after the egt install, which was tight but loosend ever so lightly) would cause false detection by the knocklite, ecu, or a combination of both.

All so on the 04's at least the uppipe heat shield can break the welds and cause the DA to dip into the -10 area. i.e. false knock.

TMS

daemon · 09-26-2006, 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheMadScientist

All so on the 04's at least the uppipe heat shield can break the welds and cause the DA to dip into the -10 area. i.e. false knock.

My uppipe heatsheild welds had broken as well (2004). I pulled my uppipe off when I swapped turbos and had it rewelded. It didn't seem to make a difference with my knock DA values though. I'm still slow.

TheMadScientist · 09-26-2006, 08:02 AM

Knock setting for the Utec. Incase you haven't seen them. I think that is of the WRX Utec. I think the Sti has one more rpm row.

TMS

jays05 · 09-29-2006, 09:14 AM

I use a sensitivity setting of 6 on mine, using the standalone bosch knock sensor. It has a tendency to flash once during the first time I hit boost after the car warms up, then never again. The car never pulls timing and seems to want more (I've all but disabled the air inlet temp timing retard table, meth injection FTW).

All of my previous "knock" issues were due to rattles in the engine bay, especially from nuts/bolts falling down on top of the motor.

**SCOOBYTRAP** · 10-10-2006, 03:44 PM

I'm running a second Bosch sensor mounted on the block below the intercooler. Mine is set at 2 for sensitivity (1= max sensitive).
I too was questioning the usefulness of the light because since I've bought it I've put in engine/trans mount....but it has worked out well to decipher the good and bad gas stations around town. what I thought was good gas turned out to be crap. Any 93 with Ethanol will make the light go nuts around 4K rpms. That same tank, add 2-3 gallons of 100 octane and no light. It works. I now use Mobil 93 and haven't seen a knock light in months.

09-25-2006, 06:24 PM	#16
crystal_Imprezav Spec C Club Car: Slow 05 STi Fav Mod: Loping Idle Location: Chewy's Garage Posts: 1,873 Join Date: Mar 2005 Trader Rating: (11)	Also just wanted to add, make sure all your heat shield bolts are tight, and etc. I have found that the slightest sign of a loose bolt (i.e. a little loose heat shield bolt after the egt install, which was tight but loosend ever so lightly) would cause false detection by the knocklite, ecu, or a combination of both. This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.

10-10-2006, 03:44 PM	#21
SCOOBYTRAP Gold Member Car: 05 STi CGM Fav Mod: JDM Foglights Location: NY Posts: 519 Join Date: Oct 2005 Trader Rating: (2)	I'm running a second Bosch sensor mounted on the block below the intercooler. Mine is set at 2 for sensitivity (1= max sensitive). I too was questioning the usefulness of the light because since I've bought it I've put in engine/trans mount....but it has worked out well to decipher the good and bad gas stations around town. what I thought was good gas turned out to be crap. Any 93 with Ethanol will make the light go nuts around 4K rpms. That same tank, add 2-3 gallons of 100 octane and no light. It works. I now use Mobil 93 and haven't seen a knock light in months. This ad is not endorsed by this member. Please register or login to hide this ad.

09-26-2006, 08:02 AM	#19
TheMadScientist Professional STI Racer Posts: 600 Join Date: Apr 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	Knock setting for the Utec. Incase you haven't seen them. I think that is of the WRX Utec. I think the Sti has one more rpm row. TMS

09-29-2006, 09:14 AM	#20
jays05 Spec C Club Car: Blue 05 STI Fav Mod: Synapse FMIC Location: Upstate NY Posts: 1,690 Join Date: Nov 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	I use a sensitivity setting of 6 on mine, using the standalone bosch knock sensor. It has a tendency to flash once during the first time I hit boost after the car warms up, then never again. The car never pulls timing and seems to want more (I've all but disabled the air inlet temp timing retard table, meth injection FTW). All of my previous "knock" issues were due to rattles in the engine bay, especially from nuts/bolts falling down on top of the motor.