[Crewchief]

I'm not sure I would trust myself with street tuner. My friend with his 91 eagle talon does his street tuning all the time with his palm. If I purchase it I would just have hime walk through it with me. I also need a laptop which I dont really have the money right now to purchase.

What kinda hp/tq increase could someone see with a well tuned map vs the stock cobb stage 2 map?

One more question. When I purchase my turbo/intercooler upgrades, could I use street tuner to create a good map, or would I have to use a different EM (ECUtek, hydra, etc)? Basically, will it allow me to tune for whatever part I upgrade in my car?

[R4ND0M_AX3]

Originally Posted by Crewchief

I'm not sure I would trust myself with street tuner. My friend with his 91 eagle talon does his street tuning all the time with his palm. If I purchase it I would just have hime walk through it with me. I also need a laptop which I dont really have the money right now to purchase.

What kinda hp/tq increase could someone see with a well tuned map vs the stock cobb stage 2 map?

One more question. When I purchase my turbo/intercooler upgrades, could I use street tuner to create a good map, or would I have to use a different EM (ECUtek, hydra, etc)? Basically, will it allow me to tune for whatever part I upgrade in my car?

Mods that require more or less ignition timing fuel or boost are tunable with a reflash (cobb AP/ST is a reflash). Mods like water/alchy injection or NO2 aren't really controllable through the stock ECU even with a reflash.

So most stuff people are doing is tunable with ST.

[WolfPlayer]

Originally Posted by R4ND0M_AX3

I guess the only issue you would have to think about is the load calc. Either the maf is scaled right when everything is stock and the fuel calcs are off or the fuel calcs are dead on and the maf scaling (and subsequently the load calc) is off.

It's a dilema I'm struggeling with. So much so that I go to do it one way and I start second guessing it and end up not touching anything.

Yea. What we really need is a completely stock car with StreetTuner and a wideband. That just isn't going to happen ... and there is definitely no way I am ripping off my TBE, putting a bung in my stock downpipe, and unmarrying everything just to get some data

The interesting thing to me is that everyone is noticing it (some more than others ... but still). We'll see what happens as the weather changes. I really need that XD-1 gauge so that I can always see what the AFR is. However, I have no money

t

[WolfPlayer]

UPDATE: My injector duty cycles dropped about 10% (to ~90%) after leaning out to 11:1.

t

[daemon]

Originally Posted by Crewchief

I'm not sure I would trust myself with street tuner. My friend with his 91 eagle talon does his street tuning all the time with his palm. If I purchase it I would just have hime walk through it with me. I also need a laptop which I dont really have the money right now to purchase.

What kinda hp/tq increase could someone see with a well tuned map vs the stock cobb stage 2 map?

One more question. When I purchase my turbo/intercooler upgrades, could I use street tuner to create a good map, or would I have to use a different EM (ECUtek, hydra, etc)? Basically, will it allow me to tune for whatever part I upgrade in my car?

You can get an increase with a custom map. Depends on a lot of factors, but maybe an average of 10-20hp/tq? Completely rough guess that others might be able to fill in better. However, my personal opinion is that if your car fits the stage 2 mods exactly, and you don't have an overwhelming desire to learn to tune, don't get StreetTuner. Wait until you are just about to add that new turbo (or whatever). I bought ST because I am planning on swapping turbos and I wanted to tune it myself (I love figuring out how this sort of stuff works).

So to sum up MHO, buy ST only if one or both of these two things are true: 1) Your car is beyond stock stage 2, and 2) you want to learn tuning.

BTW, don't forget the wideband (and a bung for your downpipe if it doesn't already have one for the wideband). There is absolutely no way to really tune the top end properly without one.

[daemon]

Originally Posted by WolfPlayer

UPDATE: My injector duty cycles dropped about 10% (to ~90%) after leaning out to 11:1.

Good news. Did you do it by just playing with the fuel map or did you tweak the intake at all? If the fuel map, what values did you end up using to make it hit 11:1 (just out of curiousity)?

[WolfPlayer]

daemon,

I only tweaked the fuel map. My values are in the low 12's to hit 11:1.

t

[R4ND0M_AX3]

OK, something just occured to me. When in closed loop the ECU is always shooting for 14.7:1 AFR. If it's off then you'll have to adjust it at the intake or injector trims.
I would think that if you were consistantly off across the board you should use the Fuel Injector Scale (and latency) to correct for it. Then do fine tuning with the Intake Calibration.

This should get you as close as possible to closed loop targets while minimizing changes to the load calc. After that I think I would asssume that the values in the primary fuel table are arbitrary and tweak from there for your open loop targets as verified on a wideband.

Don't forget to account for a small delay between the injector squirting fuel and your WBO2 sensing what happened.

[04stiguy]

Great info guys. Thanks!

[RacerXS]

Originally Posted by WolfPlayer

daemon,

I only tweaked the fuel map. My values are in the low 12's to hit 11:1.

t

Which table was that exactly?

[daemon]

Originally Posted by surfa2527

Which table was that exactly?

Primary Fuel.

[JSK]

Wolf, I just got the ST. Can you in-lighten me a little about the fuel map table. Does the 0-1 scale used here represent anything other than just a scale? if a value is at .95 and I change it to .90 doe that just lower the amount of fuel for that range by 5%? Maybe you can explain a little better.

Thanks...

Originally Posted by WolfPlayer

Yea. What we really need is a completely stock car with StreetTuner and a wideband. That just isn't going to happen ... and there is definitely no way I am ripping off my TBE, putting a bung in my stock downpipe, and unmarrying everything just to get some data

The interesting thing to me is that everyone is noticing it (some more than others ... but still). We'll see what happens as the weather changes. I really need that XD-1 gauge so that I can always see what the AFR is. However, I have no money

t

[WolfPlayer]

Originally Posted by JSK

Wolf, I just got the ST. Can you in-lighten me a little about the fuel map table. Does the 0-1 scale used here represent anything other than just a scale? if a value is at .95 and I change it to .90 doe that just lower the amount of fuel for that range by 5%? Maybe you can explain a little better.

Thanks...

You don't have your units set appropriately. Go to the options screen and find the option for "standard units". This will show things in PSI and AFR

t

[daemon]

With that display configuration setting what you are looking at is called the lambda value. Where 1.0 is stoich. It is simply the ratio of actual AFR to stoich AFR (14.7). So 0.95 is the same as an AFR of 13.94 because 13.94/14.7=0.95.

If you prefer to see 13.94 instead of 0.95 you can go into the Configure Options menu and go to the Display tab and check the Use Standard Units checkbox.

edit: you must have woken up one minute before me this morning WolfPlayer.

[JSK]

Originally Posted by WolfPlayer

You don't have your units set appropriately. Go to the options screen and find the option for "standard units". This will show things in PSI and AFR

t

I feel pretty stupid!! Thanks guys... Hey another maybe stupid question. How are the High and Low Waste Gate Cycle Tables related? If I wanted to create a real time map more like Cobbs Stage 2 93 HWG would I just raise the values on the high table or should I raise them both a little in each?

Thanks..