[bradze]

for a road racing car which would be better. im looking for great reliability.

[crystal_Imprezav]

That makes absolutely no sense.

[Turninconcepts.com]

How about swaintech coated pistons with darton sleeves? Is that what you're asking about?

[modaddict]

a stock injection with a "longevity tune" with race gas....should get you there....

[QuickSilverSTi]

Originally Posted by Turninconcepts.com

How about swaintech coated pistons with darton sleeves? Is that what you're asking about?

[bradze]

i read something about coated combustion chambers.

[twigg107]

We need too know more info like what power goals your looking for.... sleeves and ceramic coating are two different things. If your looking too push lots of hp then sleeves would be nice but are not needed.

Ceramic coating nice too keep heat at bay in the combustion chamber.

[ace996]

conservative tune with meth/water injection (50%/50%) should also be considered if it's legal for yourapplication.
Be good,
TomK

[bradze]

about 500whp/500wtq is my goal, but reliability is more import. at least 425 whp with good reliability.

[diabloadsit]

You can do those numbers with just pistons/rods and meth

[bradze]

i know that but i dont want to hafta worry about buying a new block every few months.

[Turninconcepts.com]

Originally Posted by bradze

i read something about coated combustion chambers.

Yes you can. There's a TON of coating you can do.

ceramic coat piston tops and combustion chamber to keep heat in the chamber and insulate from migrating into the rest of the piston or into the heads as much.

You can dry film lube the piston skirts, the rod bearings, and the main bearing surfaces on the crank.

You can have oil shedding coating put on the inside of the piston and on the rods to allow them to "shed" oil which will help in the cooling.

You can ceramic coat the exhaust ports on the heads to keep heat out of the heads, and in the exhaust gasses.

You can thin layer thermal dispersant the exterior of the whole block, the heads and the oil pan. This will help the external surfaces shed heat.

You can dry film lube the valve guides.

You can dry film lube or thin layer thermal dispersant the valve springs

you can dry film lube the cam lobes and buckets for the valves.

There's a TON of stuff you can do with coatings, but it can all start to get very expensive. It's also not going to make things bulletproof. If you screwup big you still screw up big.

As for water or meth - if going for reliable then do not rely upon those. Build your motor for your power goal + a little more, and get a good tune from the start. Do not rely upon those two things to keep things cool enough that you can push the motor to even more when it's not built for those levels of power to begin with.

In the end - if you're going to seriously road race the car then engine refreshes on a regular basis are going to become routine. Casual HPDE's - not a problem. Real racing where you're out there beating on the car to win a race, damn the consequences, is going to require quite a bit more work.

[steee]

Originally Posted by diabloadsit

You can do those numbers with just pistons/rods and meth

Yep..

[kwlsti]

Originally Posted by diabloadsit

You can do those numbers with just pistons/rods and meth

and blow up in the first 10 min...

Originally Posted by Turninconcepts.com

There's a TON of stuff you can do with coatings, but it can all start to get very expensive. It's also not going to make things bulletproof. If you screwup big you still screw up big.

As for water or meth - if going for reliable then do not rely upon those. Build your motor for your power goal + a little more, and get a good tune from the start. Do not rely upon those two things to keep things cool enough that you can push the motor to even more when it's not built for those levels of power to begin with.

In the end - if you're going to seriously road race the car then engine refreshes on a regular basis are going to become routine. Casual HPDE's - not a problem. Real racing where you're out there beating on the car to win a race, damn the consequences, is going to require quite a bit more work.

right now I'm making my 04 STi into a Canadian Touring car GT class. and i totally agree with you. i would never think of using meth, it's just one more thing that could go wrong. try to get your engine as bullet proof as you can. so far I've spent 15,000(can), about 9000 in parts, just on the block. coated valves, springs pistons,cams,ect... no sleeves. I'm going to be using something in the order of a gt40r depending on my times next weekend. don't make any more power then you really need, it's just more strain on the engine. your going to need a good oil cooler and get a GOOD ecu, pectel is what I'm going with.

and i LOVE iwsti, but this usualy isn't the place to get good advice for a real race engine or car. some guys like TIC can point you in the right direction. good luck on your build.

[CrawfordPerformance.com]

Originally Posted by bradze

i know that but i dont want to hafta worry about buying a new block every few months.

At the power level you are asking for the stock STI block will be more than adequate. If you have to buy a new block every few months at 550WHP then your problem will be with the tune not the block.

A stronger block will not make the tune any better; instead it will make it a more expensive grenade! There are many companies that are making the kind of power you are after with the stock STI block, choose one wisely and you will save a ton of money and pain

Good luck.