[limited777]

Originally Posted by modaddict

Hate to break it to you but 04-07 have the exact same pistons.


it's the tuning that breaks them.

hmm dealer made me think other wise. then maybe its the piston rings but they deff made it clear that it wasn't exactly the same.

[modaddict]

Originally Posted by limited777

hmm dealer made me think other wise. then maybe its the piston rings but they deff made it clear that it wasn't exactly the same.

They are the exact same part number. They did change coatings sometime in 04, but it didn't have an effect on their brittle-ness.
IIRC, the rings changed in 08 along with the rods. Rods are way beefier in the 08's.

But they are plenty strong in the 04-07's for 99% of people.

[Lenny Boottzz]

When the motor does deciede to go at 400whp on a stock motor is it guna be just pistons and rings? Or am i guna be picking parts off the road?

[Lenny Boottzz]

Originally Posted by bankaiup

i got some CP pistons in mine... it's been working great for the last 6-7k miles with my GT35r @23 psi!

nice how much Hp are you pushing? any meth?

[BANKAI]

400 on a mustang dyno will probably be trapping 115's id say maybe axles when they go depending on ur tq. I've heard from my tuner they went out from 320 and up just depends ya know?u live and learn never know whats going to happen at any point or time. Hey thats what mod'n cars about!

[07 Flt4bxr]

bumping my thread.
now that im rotated on stock block.(375awhp-24 peak psi, steady around 21 to 23). im not trying to kill my motor. i have 145xx miles and the tune is great very smooth and very lieaner. now im thinking/worrying kinda about my stock block. would i eventually need an entire short block or could i just do the internals: pistons, rods, bearings,ringlands,ect... ?
i was thinking at around 60k i would do this.
i dont beat on my car. i still get 21-23 mpg.
but i do get on it and drive it, just not all the time like a crazy person.lol.

[modaddict]

I would drive it until she lets go. Buy an S2 (depending on how much money you want to spend and how much internal work you think you need. these rods are strong. strong enough for your 30r that's for sure).


but keep in mind the motor will go sooner or later.

[07 Flt4bxr]

Originally Posted by modaddict

I would drive it until she lets go. Buy an S2 (depending on how much money you want to spend and how much internal work you think you need. these rods are strong. strong enough for your 30r that's for sure).


but keep in mind the motor will go sooner or later.

ya i know...im just a lil worrid. but who isnt. lol
i was prob gonna do the S3L-h or I
probably the H a i dont think i will ever need the I wich is beefier.
we'll see wut happens i guess...i know Bill is an excelent tunner. and the cars feels amazing and has seen zero det and knock (knock on wood). so i hope i can make it last. im aiming for 60k. we'll see...

[layza4sti]

Quick question; did you ever think about buying your new block and selling your stock one before she poop's, that way you can get some of your money back???

Anyone know how much you can sell a stock STi block, with about 20k on it??

[07 Flt4bxr]

Originally Posted by layza4sti

Quick question; did you ever think about buying your new block and selling your stock one before she poop's, that way you can get some of your money back???

Anyone know how much you can sell a stock STi block, with about 20k on it??

yes i have thought about this...and i dont know the answer to ur question

[XxSCAxX]

ill chime in since im in a position you are almost in.

i have a rotated perrin 30r kit. have been running it for not too long, but holding strong on the stock motor. i too plan on doing some internals.


before you make ANY decision on buying, decide what your future goals are for the car. i've decided i want about 450 whp, so i will be basing my purchases off that. it all depends on how much power you want to push to decide what you necessarily need to buy to suit the power level.

i've talked to a bunch of engine builders, and ill probably go with pistons, head studs, new set of gaskets, a nice mild set of cams, and a new oil pump. there is a few other choices i've been suggested that i might do as well, but thats the basics. i'll probably end up getting a new timing belt and some other stuff.

so decide what your power goals are and work from there. if your satisfied with your power level now, and you just want the "insurance", i wouldnt do too much more than pistons, studs, and gaskets. there wouldnt be a need for more.

[burken]

Have you looked into raw performance at all. The street series block looks pretty solid for the power you are looking at and its about a grand cheaper. Not sure how the two compare but on paper they seem about the same. Maybe someone can explain the difference besides the names. Thanks

[07 Flt4bxr]

Originally Posted by burken

Have you looked into raw performance at all. The street series block looks pretty solid for the power you are looking at and its about a grand cheaper. Not sure how the two compare but on paper they seem about the same. Maybe someone can explain the difference besides the names. Thanks

im bias for crawford performance... honestly that extra grand is worth it IMO

[AR Fab]

If you wait for the motor to blow, you are going to spend more money fixing the other things that happened as a result of the blown motor.

If you are going to have the motor torn apart to do pistons / studs / gaskets, it's only the price of parts to put in new rods and bearings. There is no point in doing 'drop in' pistons if you want the extra power.

I do agree with XxSCAxX though, you need to think about what your future goals are. It is definitely more cost effective to do it right the first time.

I would DEFINITELY replace the timing belt / water pump / oil pump while you are at it as well. And you are probably going to want to do a recondition of the heads to make sure they are up to par. If the motor does blow, it will be cheaper for you to buy a new oil pan / pickup / oil cooler than if you were to pay someone to clean it. (It takes over 5 hours to get MOST of the metal out and it's still not surgically clean like we require for installing onto an engine.)

I see that you are biased to Crawford and that's fine, but don't waste your money on a block if you aren't going to take the other proper steps to make sure the rest of the engine is good.

[XxSCAxX]

^^ exactly. no point of tearing apart the block only to pull it back apart later b/c you have decided you want more power.