[modaddict]

good read!

[Lutfy]

Originally Posted by modaddict

good read!

Okay, got some update and you guys are hopefully you guys can benefit from this as well.

I drilled a 4 inch hole (with a dremel) in the inside fender liner and routed the hose straight through instead of making a snake. Had to cut the hose a few inches (almost around a foot). The straight through design visually looked like it would have better flow.

Results:

My pads and 2 piece rotors looks like they are wearing like they SHOULD. No evident spider cracks. I would like to stick a temp stick and get some reading now.

Lutfy

[Andy STI]

Please take some pictures of how you routed the hose. I can't visualize it and I'm not sure how you got the hose around the wheel. I am assuming you went around the strut first or did you go straight medially? You have the Quantum ducts correct?

Thanks,
Andy

[Lutfy]

Originally Posted by Andy STI

Please take some pictures of how you routed the hose. I can't visualize it and I'm not sure how you got the hose around the wheel. I am assuming you went around the strut first or did you go straight medially? You have the Quantum ducts correct?

Thanks,
Andy

I am going to take pictures altough it will be 2-3 weeks from now (no track day or I should say evening until then).

Yes I have the Quantum plate with the standard neoprene 3 inch hose.

Picture a 4 inch hole right in front of the fender well which makes it a straight shot to the fog light opening in the front (picture that there is no fender liner and how you could now route the hose straight through). Install the duct and make sure you move the wheels right to left to check how much of the hose you will stretch on each side. With the driver's wheel turned left I routed the hose straight through and zip tied it along the way.

Having a straight flow with a 90 degree bend is what you end up having (with a shorter duct). Theoretically it should help with flow but i am practical and had to try it out. In this case, I am quite happy with the setup.

DTC 70s up front lasted me a LONG time (3 weekends before they are 1/3 left).

Will post the pics in detail once I have the car jacked up (I remove the ducts after each track weekend/day). Its a bit tedious but you can get around doing this in 20 mins both sides while you are doing the brake swap. Removing it takes 3 mins (cut the zip ties, open up the screw at the ducting plate).

Regards,

Lutfy

[EESTI]

This post is a great read! I'm having problems with brake heat also. I have been using Hawk DTC 70 pads, with Gyrodisk two piece rotors. Motul RBF 600 fluid seems to hold up better than ATE, but I still get some boiling. I'm trying the Titanium plates, and also fabricating some duct.

What are the technical differences (advantages/disadvantages) between the different race compound pads Hawk, Pagid and Carbotech? It's been suggested to me that I use an HT-10 instead, however I'm trying to eliminate severe pulsation and excess heat. I'm also considering going back to Brembo blank (stock) one piece rotors. Will ducting create enough cooling to protect the hub?

[WRXBrakes]

HT-10's are a lesser compound from Hawk - I usually recommend those for street tired cars - or more entry level track guys.

[EESTI]

Okay, thanks. You have an WRX Brakes you have a PM.