[Lenny Boottzz]

just did dba rotors, pads, steel lines. blead the brake inside then out. but my petal get firm but i got push the petal alittle further then it should have to go. stops amazing just want it to bite more up top like it should . no air in the lines bled them to death. master cylinder maybe any ideas thanks

[Igetitpoppin]

Did you set the actuator?

[Lenny Boottzz]

i replaced the lines blead lines rotors and pads thats it

[SeanB]

If there's pedal travel it's almost always air in the system. Bleed again. Try tapping on the calipers with a soft mallet. If you're using any sort of power[pressurized] bleeder, push the brake pedal w/ the bleeder open OR switch to the traditional method of bleeding brakes--operating the MC better dislodges air from the system. As a last resort, push the caliper pistons in (like you would if you were swapping pads). Make sure you have clean fluid in there and watch the reservoir level. Inexplicably and purely by accident, this has worked for me on two occasions.

If the pedal is firm then slowly starts to sink (losing pressure) it's probably the MC. Replace MC. Less likely is a brake booster/vacuum issue.

[SeanB]

Also, if the new pads aren't bed, it'll feel like glass w/ more pedal needed. Sometimes a little heat makes things better.

[Lenny Boottzz]

bleed the front alot more solved the prob thanx

[Igetitpoppin]

So it wasnt the actuator?

[Lenny Boottzz]

i thought it might be but i guese we didnt bleed them enouph. we bleed it ones saw no bubbles then stoped but i guese changing the lines one should bleed a little extra to be certain.

[V8Huntr]

Did you fully bed the new pads and rotors? Also what pads did you go with?

[Lenny Boottzz]

dba drilled slotted rotors, hps front and back pads, steel lines

[Turninconcepts.com]

Look up nhluhr's pedal freeplay adjustment.