[pharo]

So I have been trying to read up on bleeding your brakes, but what about completely flushing out the factory fluid and switching, to say ATE. Can I just remove the fluid in the master cylinder, replace it with new fluid, and then run the rest of the old fluid out of the first caliper I work on?

My second question, is after I completely flush/bleed the fluid, I heard somewhere I need to engage ABS a few times, then come back and rebleed to make sure any remaining fluid will be removed. I didn't completely understand what they guy was talking about.

I am going to Buttonwillow next week, and have never bleed my stock brakes, after all of the auto-x and track days I have been over the last three years. I actually feel the pedal not nearly as stiff as it was before, and realize I need to bleed it. I figure I might as well swap out fluid, and just kill the remainder of my stock brakes.


Thanks for your help.

[SubyFi]

Try and empty as much old fluid in the master cylinder. Some use a turkey baster or a medical syringe. I never had to engage the ABS and bleed the brakes again. As long as you get the old fluid and any air bubbles out you will be okay.

BTW, bleed from the inside bleed screw first. The Brembos have two bleed screws per caliper.

edit: shoot just read this How-To!
DIY: How to bleed STI Brembo brakes

From the Subaru Service Manual:

Brake Fluid
18.Brake Fluid
A: REPLACEMENT
1) Either jack-up the vehicle and place a rigid racks
under it, or lift-up the vehicle.
2) Remove both front and rear wheels.
3) Draw out the brake fluid from master cylinder
with syringe.
4) Refill the reservoir tank with recommended
brake fluid.
Recommended brake fluid:
FMVSS No. 116, fresh DOT3 or DOT4 brake
fluid
NOTE:
• Avoid mixing different brands of brake fluid to
prevent degrading the quality of the fluid.
• Be careful not to allow dirt or dust to get into the
reservoir tank.

Bleeding sequence (FR) → (RL) → (FL) → (RR)

5) Install one end of a vinyl tube onto the air bleeder
and insert the other end of the tube into a container
to collect the brake fluid.
NOTE:
• Cover the bleeder with waste cloth, when loosening
it, to prevent brake fluid from being splashed
over surrounding parts.
• During the bleeding operation, keep the brake
reservoir tank filled with brake fluid to eliminate entry
of air.
• The brake pedal operating must be very slow.
• For convenience and safety, two people should
do the work.
• The amount of brake fluid required is approx. 500
m2 (16.9 US fl oz, 17.6 Imp fl oz) for total brake
system.
6) Instruct your co-worker to depress the brake
pedal slowly two or three times and then hold it depressed.
7) Loosen the bleeder screw approx. 1/4 turn until a
small amount of brake fluid drains into container,
and then quickly tighten the screw.
8) Repeat steps 6) and 7) above until there are no
air bubbles in the drained brake fluid and new fluid
flows through vinyl tube.
NOTE:
Add brake fluid as necessary while performing the
air bleed operation, in order to prevent the tank
from running short of brake fluid.
9) After completing the bleeding operation, hold
brake pedal depressed and tighten the screw and
install bleeder cap.
Tightening torque:
8 N⋅m (0.8 kgf-m, 5.8 ft-lb)
10) Bleed air from each wheel cylinder by following
the previous 5 steps.
11) Depress the brake pedal with a force of approx.
294 N (30 kgf, 66 lb) and hold it there for approx. 20
seconds. At this time check the pedal to see if it
makes any unusual movement. Visually inspect the
bleeder screws and brake pipe joints to make sure
that there is no fluid leakage.
12) Install the wheels, and drive the vehicle for a
short distance between 2 to 3 km (1 to 2 miles) to
make sure that brakes are operating properly.

[pharo]

Thanks a lot SubyFi. I will see if I can't use this two man method, I was planning on going with a motive power bleeder, but a) didn't know if it was worth it, and b) if I had to empty out the master cylinder and replace it with new fluid or not before attaching the power bleeder. I appreciate your help.

[BoostJunkie]

After 3 years of track days you have never bled your brakes? I'm surprised you have any pedal left at all. To answer your questions, yes the power bleeder is worth it IMO, it saves me a lot of time. And no you don't have to suck the fluid out of the MC reservoir first, you can push it out through the front right caliper if you want. From now on though, I would bleed before EVERY track event, it's well worth $10 in fluid and 30 minutes of your time to know you're safe.

[SD 05 STi]

Off topic, but what day are you running and with what group (color-wise)? I'll be there on Saturday running in the green group

[pharo]

Boost- I am still fairly novice, and auto-x never made me feel like my brakes were fading or my fluid was boiling. I haven't roadraced much at all, but after my last canyon ride (I don't even push it on the street) I realized I need to get my brakes up to par. But I will definitely follow your advice of bleeding them before every event.


SD- I am going saturday as well. Sweet! A fellow IWSTI-er. I haven't registered just yet, as I won't be able unless I can schedule picking up my brake pads by tonight. Once I know I will let you know which color group I am in. Plus, if you don't mind doing some ride alongs I could definitely use some advice.

[SD 05 STi]

For sure man. Just let me know

[ESmooth]

Ill be there saturday too, I signed up late and the red group was full so I may be in green. See you guys out there.