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Tim's Twin Scroll 06 STI: It's alive again!

434K views 2K replies 129 participants last post by  armyssoldierboy 
#1 · (Edited)
Numbers:
Dyno:
Mustang (stock STI 230whp)
Tuner:
Wheel HP:
Wheel TQ:
Ambient Temp:
Elevation:


Facebook journal:
Www.facebook.com/caraddictmotorsportsyeti

Story:
I first got my Aspen white 06 STI when I was returning to the states after serving in Korea for 2 years. I reenlisted in the Army in Apr. 06'. I got $12,500, after taxes, for a bonus. That's where my jouney for mods began.

My mod list with my bonus consisted of all my defi gauges/controller and center gauge pod, my Pioneer head unit. intake, fmic, dp w/ custom exhaust, walbro 255 and the utec. It was only road tuned so I don't know the power numbers for those mods. I do know that it was really rich, pushing 21psi and would have HUGE backfires and get horrible boost creep.

I drove it like that for about 8 months then got deployed x-mas 2006. I married my girlfriend and we had our son while I was home on mid-tour leave. I think all I got was my a-pillar gauge pod and some exhaust hangers. I had to take care of the family and furniture for a home I was to return to instead of the barracks.

Taxes came back in 2008 and I got my hood from a buddy who was going to trade in his 07 wrx for an 05 STI. I got some headers for my bday and made 270whp/276wtq only running a 13.1 @ 103mph. That was enough to fry my clutch. I opted to upgrade to the ACT HD clutch and streetlite flywheel while at it. I deployed a second time around X-mas 2008. I ordered some PE850cc injectors and my Tial sport Q bov.

I came back from that deployment X-mas time 2009 and shortly after ordered a Full Race twin scroll hta gt3076r 1.06 a/r turbo kit and my KSTech 83mm cold air intake. On the stock block, that setup made 380/364 on a mustang dyno. My fastest time on that setup was a 12.20 @ 115mph.

I left for Germany in June 2010, leaving the car behind. In Sept I found out my dad had put my car in the shop shortly after I left. With a fully built long block it now makes 436/426 (mustang) on 93oct @ 24psi and 499/468 @ 28psi on VP MS109.

I finally got my car to Germany in Sept 2011. I got on the Nurburgring and roasted my stock brakes after 1 lap in the Spring of 2012. I finally got my brakes upgraded in September 2012 with DBA rotors and Project Mu pads and went back to the Ring in Spring 2013. I did 5 laps there with some great videos (too large for youtube).

I am now at Fort Polk Louisiana and am registered in the SCCA and have completed my first autox, placing 1st in SM against 2 other cars in my class and had the fastest fendered car out of 35 others
Went to my 2nd event 27 Apr and took 1st place again in SM. 3rd event on May 18th I got 2nd. I lost to a widebody STI with 295 slicks. I also got a hard pipe to replace the big silicone section of the turbo inlet.

June 6th I went back to Cobb to get the car's tune finished. After the first power pull they shut the car off so I walked over to it. They started it back up and we all distinctively heard the rod knock
I rented a Uhaul truck and trailer to get it home 5hrs away. I yanked the motor and disassebled it for the first time
I found rod 3 bearing destroyed and rebuilt the engine. I got everything installed and fired up the day before the movers came to pack everything for my next PCS to Ft. Bragg, NC. Perfect timing!

I started my break-in miles and noticed the oil leak. Took me a few reinstalls to realize I was using the wrong o ring. Fixed the leak and put about 40 miles on it and the cam bolt broke, causing the timing belt to come off. I threw in the towel and sent the car to Subaru to have them fix it. After 2 months, I finally got my car back and have installed a ton of little items that I've had and some that I've received for Xmas.

In April of 2015, I recieved my first sponsorship from Virtue Motorsports and have started a "shop" from home which I named, Car Addict Motorsports. In May, my new engine suffered a catastophic engine failure due to a lean tune that turned my entire longblock into scrap metal. I finished paying off that engine in December 2015 and have began building another, stronger, motor.

In May of 2016, the build is almost complete thanks to Virtue still being on board and recieved a sponsorship by Clutch Masters to help get everything back together by way of a twin disk clutch. I also got my engine parts back from the machine shop to start assembling everything.

January 2020, I finally had the car issue free and got it to the tuner. Waited to hear some good power numbers but turned out they had boost control issues. They couldn't fully diagnose it since the engine spun another bearing on the dyno. I could have bought another car at this point with how many engine I've gone through :/ Engine 5 going in at 85k miles. Out of owning this car for 14 years, I've only been able to drive it for 5!

July 2021 its all put back together with some new upgrades; Koyo radiator, Aluminati expansion tank, custom 6an fuel lines mated to an Aeromotive FPR.

Engine:
-Original 702 EJ257 casing
-New 705 EJ257 casing
-IAG 2.5L closed deck casing
-Perrin downpipe
-Perrin el headers
-Full Race twin scroll headers (dei heat wrapped)
-Full Race twin scroll uppipe
-Full Race catless downpipe
-HTA Twin Scroll gt3076R 1.06a/r turbo
-EFR 7670 1.05a/r turbo
-2 x Tial 38mm MVS ewg's dumped to atmoshpere
-2 x Tial 38mm MVR ewg's dumped to atmoshpere
-Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS
-Mahle 100mm pistons
-Mahle 99.5mm pistons 4032 alloy
-Manley Platinum 2618 99.75mm Pistons
-Pauter rods
-Manley H Tuff rods
-Kelford R-199-B cams 264/264
-New Kelford R-199-B cams 264/260
-BC springs and retainers set
-GSC bronze-magnesium valve guides
-GSC valves seals
-3-angle valve job 58* Bottom, 45* Seat, 38* Top
-ARP Custom Age 625+ head studs
-KSTech 83mm cai
-Injen short ram intake
-Samco turbo inlet
-Perrin FMIC polished pipes
-Full Race reverse manifold fmic black pipes
-Tial Sport Q bov
-KSTech TGV delete kit
-KSTech 1/2" throttle body spacer
-IAG 8mm phenolic tgv spacers
-T1 Racing Development topfeed fuel rails
-Evil Energy 6an ptfe custom fuel lines
-ID1000 topfeed injectors
-Aeromotive FPR
-PE850cc injectors
-Walbro fuel pump
-Deatshwerkz DW300C fuel pump
-Cobb Access Port v3
-Custom 3'' cbe w/ Magnaflow muffler
-Greddy catback
-Crawford Performance Air Oil Seperator
-NGK 1step colder spark plugs
-Cobb lightweight crank pulley
-Cobb MAF sensor block-off plate
-GM IAT sensor
-Aluminati expansion tank
-Custom coolant overflow reservoir
-GT Spec oil press. sandwhich adapter
-GT Spec water temp. sensor adapter
-Omni 3-bar map sensor
-P&L high-pressure power steering line
-DIY radiator shroud
-Windshield washer reservoir delete
-Killer Bee oil pick up tube
-Killer Bee oil windage tray
-11mm oil pump
-Gates racing tensioner kit
-Grimmspeed hood struts
-Optima Red Top battery
-Billet Proof battery tray
-200amp breaker
-00awg power wire (had it left over from an audio setup
-Manifold, compressor cover, tgv's, valve covers and crank pulley powder coated Misty Midnight blue
63206
9

Exterior:
-
Cleared, shaved and painted headlights
-Ebay cs style front, side and rear lips
-Hella horns powrder coated Misty Midnight blue
-Debadged/ destickered
-Taillight tint
-5% rear windows tint
-white front turn signal bulbs
-3rd brake light w/ "SUBARU" cutout tint
-Seibon CWII carbon fiber hood
-white LED front parking lights
-Rally Armor Breast Cancer mudflaps
-DIY lower grill
-Moteki black opened ended lug nuts
58254


Interior:
-Duracon shift knob
-04 WRX black hazard button
-Center console painted black
-Subtle Solutions black hvac knob decals
-Custom armrest cover (post)
-Custom e-brake boot
-Custom shifter boot
-Pioneer AVHP-6800 indash 6dvd changer
-Carbon fiber center gauge pod
-Defi Control Unit
-Defi Boost
-Defi EGT
-Defi Oil Pressure
-Defi Fuel Pressure
-Defi Water temp
-AEM x-series wideband (replaced the Innovate Motorsports)
-Lotek triple gauge pod a-pillar
-All pillars and roof painted black
58255


Suspension/Brakes:
-Whiteline 27mm front swaybar set to full stiff
-Whiteline 24mm rear swaybar set to middle/3
-Whiteline front/rear spherical endlinks
-AST 4100 custom valved coilover struts
-Swift 7k front springs
-Swift 5k rear springs
-Vorshlag v2 front/rear camber plates
-Whiteline front/rear camber bolts
-JRracing front strut bar
-DBA T2 Street Series front/rear rotors
-Project Mu B-Force front/rear brake pads
-Goodridge SS brake front/rear lines
-H&R lowering springs
58415


Drivetrain:
-Kartboy front/rear shifter bushings
-Kartboy short shifter
-Kartboy exhaust hangers
-Kartboy rear sub frame outrigger bushings
-Kartboy rear sub frame lock out bolts
-Super Pro cross member bushings
-Super Pro steering rack bushings
-ACT HD sprung 6 puck clutch
-ACT Streetlite flywheel
-Goodridge SS clutch line
-Clutch Masters FX850 twin disk street/race clutch and flywheel
-ACT HD fullface clutch disk
-TiC shifter pivot bushings
-TiC rear diff mount bushings
-Group N transmission mount (post # 114)
-Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Specs 245/40/17
--35psi F/R Daily
--40psi F/R racing
-Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs 245/40/17

Fluids/Weight/Alignment:
-Motul 10w40 engine break-in oil
-Royal Purple Max Gear 75w90 rear diff oil
-Motul RBF-600 brake fluid
-Motul Gear 300 tranny fluid
-Weight w/o driver: 3220 lbs
-Camber Front: -2*
Rear: -1.6*
-Dampening DD: Full soft f/r
Race: 6/12f / 8/12r from full still

Special Posts:
Jan 20 - New engine spins a bearing at 1100 miles
May 15 - Piston exploded after 5300 miles
6 Feb 15 - Force Fed dyno tune
5 Jan 15 - TiC pivot bushing install instructions and review
3 Jan 15 - Shift knob and Hella horn reviews
Motor ver. 3.0 break in procedures
23 Sept 14 - Rebuild complete, 1st start successful
6 June 14 - Spun bearing on dyno
27 Apr 14 - 2nd autox, 1st place
23 Mar 14 - 1st autoX, winning 1st in SM
5 Apr 13 - Alignment sheet
7 Oct 12 - Brake rotor, pads and fluid installed
27 May 12 - Evo/Subaru Nukeplant Photoshoot
1 Mar 12 - AST coilover review
19 Nov 10 - Cobb Dyno Video
27 Sep 10 - Cobb Built Motor Dyno Graph
30 May 10 - 1/4 Mile Track Day
18 Apr 10 - AWDTuning Stock Motor Dyno Graph
9 Mar 10 - Full Race turbo kit install: here and here
20 Dec 09 - KSTech TGV Deleting: here and here

Plans For This Year:
-Finish tune (scheduled!)
-Extended lug studs

Future Plans:
-Wheels
-DIY fender flares
-DIY Zerosports style rear window wing vortex generator
-Aero parts.

Eventually In Life:
-Syms replica Wing
-HKS style rear diffuser
-WRX black carpet/ doorcards
-Recaro Speed black racing seats
-Carbon fiber trunk
-Mishimoto oil cooler
-Mishimoto transmission cooler
-Koyo radiator
-Okada ignition amplifier and boots
-Whiteline A.L.K.
-Whiteline lateral links
-DSS axles
-DSS cf driveshaft
-Zerosports roofvane w/ vortex generators
-Hood pins
 

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#1,927 ·
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The road to becoming a tuner

I finally ordered some new Kelford cams. I went with the 199-B's again but looks like they've updated their specs and are now 264/260's vs the old 264/264's. I wonder how that'll impact the power band with a slightly bigger turbo than what I had. I've been reading more into tuning so I haven't stopped with that. Just been busy building and fixing cars to even work on my own. I just about have all the funds to complete the Yeti.
 
#1,929 ·
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

Engine is in and I am in the middle of installing the Full Race reverse manifold intercooler.

Great news - record first start to share with us Minions.;)
 
#1,930 ·
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

Since everyone is on Facebook these days, I have created a page to serve as a journal since it's easier to keep track of progress, conversations, pictures etc

Security Check Required
 
#1,931 ·
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

Since everyone is on Facebook these days, I have created a page to serve as a journal since it's easier to keep track of progress, conversations, pictures etc

Www.facebook.com/caraddictmotorsportsyeti
 
#1,932 ·
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

Since everyone is on Facebook these days, I have created a page to serve as a journal since it's easier to keep track of progress, conversations, pictures etc

Www.facebook.com/caraddictmotorsportsyeti
Do you still plan to update this thread? I feel like social media can be over-saturating, although good content like your page will help push out some of the BS.

I like scrolling through a good, old-fashioned build thread, but i may be in the minority there.

Glad to see you're making headway on the build :D
 
#1,935 · (Edited)
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

Fine... lol

I'll start with the battery relocation:
I got a Billet Proof Deka etx16 weldable battery tray for xmas. It fit my Deka etx20l pretty good. I got some mixed gas and used it as my very first welding project, she's a beauty lol


Found out I didn't have the gas turned on enough but it grinded down decent. Not worried as it was a starter piece and won't be seen. I came home and my wife was powder coating it :tup:



I drilled some holes in the bottom of the tray, cut out the bracket that holds the tmic sprayer reservoir and placed the tray in position, marked the holes, drilled and mounted the tray. I had to remove the 3 nuts to let the charcoal canister hang then bolted the tray down. I cut a slim piece of wood to act as a floor for the battery so it wasn't resting on the 4 bolt heads.



I cut the oem battery tie down and rewarded it to make a mini tie down :) So cute lol I also cut the J hooks down. I sand blasted them then coated as well. I then threaded the j hooks to fit the m6 nuts.


Got a 100amp circuit breaker from amazon that fit the 0awg wire I had from an old audio setup and routed the wire to the front and mounted a stud terminal on the driver strut tower. The holes were there already almost perfectly spaced for the bolts to thread into. I also used the oem wire that ran from the battery negative terminal to the block as the ground in the trunk and just scratched paint off the body around a bolt then mounted it.






You can't tell but my Hella horn wire is inside of the fuse box loom as well. Trying to keep everything neat. I had over-thought this for so long, it blew me away how simple it was to do. I guess the stud terminal is what I needed and didn't know about it until recently. As soon as I found out about it, it was a done deal.
 
#1,936 · (Edited)
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

I got the car in the garage and got the engine in a couple weeks ago.



Clutch Masters' twin disk clutch


I bought a Full Race reverse manifold intercooler. The way the pipes are routed forces me to relocate the upper coolant reservoir. I'm getting a Legacy reservoir so it points the 2 smaller lines down/right and mounting it in the gap around my cold air intake.


With that being said, the hot side intercooler pipes are routed through the fender hole closest to the cabin :tdown: It prevented the use of any aftermarket intake so I stepped back and looked at everything and decided to make a cut in the pipe and added a 45* coupler. It works almost great. It routes the pipe so it is routed like just about every other fmic pipe. It sort of rests on the abs lines but clears the abs support stud and the fender so it's just about a confirmed fit (just need to put the t bolts on).








The crash bar had to be cut more than anticipated but I figured it out. I thought only the center section had to be cut but the lower half of the sides were in the way of the inlet/outlets.



This is as far as I've gotten since Full Race Sent a pipe with an iat bung that I didn't need so I'm waiting for the new pipe to arrive. I removed the driver side fan in preparation for the slim fan but don't want to mount the slim fan because my luck would kick in and it would be mounted in the way of the pipe so I want everything mached up before I mount the fan to the radiator.

I was under the car tightening the ewg clamps and my luck struck. When I pre-fit everything on the engine stand, I couldn't account for the frame. I had to loosen and twist a couple of the ewg coolant lines but no biggie. One of the clamps for the uppipe/ewg has the head of the bolt facing the frame. I think it's loose enough to sort of walk it into a position where I can either use it or remove it. I hope lol
 
#1,937 ·
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

Got the downpipe and ewg's all situated. It took a while. I thought they were good but had to loosen and twist the coolant fittings then the v bands were touching the dp. It's bent really close to the ewg's but after I adjusted the clamps, it's all good now.

Got the o2 and wideband sensors in. Tightened the rest of the bell housing bolts and put on the tranny and engine mount nuts. Not sure why I removed the tranny mount nuts lol. Probably because it was only my 2nd engine pull ever and thought I needed to. Since I've been doing this for a couple years as a side business, I now have over a dozen engine pulls so this was easy to put it, aside from all the aftermarket parts and customizing but that was to be expected.

I was trying to disconnect my Defi water temp sensor to reroute it and all 3 wires broke off ?? So now I'm in the middle of soldering the tiny wires but my soldering skills suck lol
 
#1,938 ·
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

Fuel is drained, fluids in the engine are full, exterior is together, just need to install the interior. Waiting for IAG to send me the break-in map so I can get it fired up and check for leaks and do a compression test.

I did notice the water pump elbow leaking. I removed it when I was on my sandblasting cleaning kick. I should have replaced the seal but thought it'd be ok. I tightened the bolts some and will check tonight when I get home if it's still leaking.

I've been updating my Facebook journal since it's easier to post pictures. The link is in my signatue.

Here is what she looks like all dirty :)


Still need an o2 plug for the dp and will get one today on my way home.
 
#1,939 ·
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

Considering all the hurdles it's coming together very nicely. I really like the work you did with the battery relocation box and tie down. I've been thinking of moving my battery to the trunk to free up some space in the bay, this is great inspiration.

For the water elbow, did the sealing surface get sandblasted as well? If so, it probably got roughed up too much or could even be wavy, making it difficult to seal nicely. You may be able to get it to seal using RTV only (don't even use a gasket if you're using RTV).
 
#1,940 ·
Re: Tim's EFR 7670 SM 06 STi: The Yeti will be breathing soon!

It was just an old seal so when I removed it, it wasn't good any more. I got a new seal and it's all good now. To answer your question, no I made sure to tape off the mating surface.

I got her fired up and I'm an idiot! I put BOTH head gaskets on backwards. I could have sworn I double checked that! Oil went everywhere. I already have the manifold off and was trying to remove the engine without the turbo kit. Not happening. The oil drain line doesn't have enough length to pull off of the hard pipe. The turbo and uppipe are too heavy to lift at the awkward position so I'm going to try and jack the uppipe while I lift the engine a little. Worst case scenario, I'll fully remove the dp, ewg dump tunes, ewgs, bolt the uppipe back to the headers and bolt the headers back in just so I can get the turbo off. I'm really hoping I can get away with jacking the turbo/uppipe up. Why not just remove the turbo? Cant. It's so big that 2 bolts are hard to get to and 1 is a bolt/nut combo and can't really get to the under side of it. This is why I had it in the engine when I dropped it in.

As for the battery relocation, you can get pre-welded boxes. I just happened to get the raw one for xmas and made for a great learning project for my new welder :) it really is straight forward. The only thing is I used the negative cable that went to from the negative terminal to the block for the ground in the trunk. I made a grounding cable and bolted it to the under side of the engine like the 08+ did. It's a little ghetto for now but will get some 4awg wire later. I'm using (3) 16awg wires twisted together to a ring terminal. I figured the oem wire on the passenger side is 1 16awg-ish wire so it should be ok. I really like the breaker I got because now I can cut power super easy to the front by just pushing the button.
 
#1,941 · (Edited)
I got the head gaskets flipped and fired her back up in about 13 man hours. The header wrap soaked up so much oil it smoked me out of the garage. I let it idle for roughly 12 minutes at 2500-3k rpm then shut it off. Not 1 drop hit the ground and I could watch the smoke roll off of the headers. I washed the car twice and poured the soapy water all over the engine to rid it of oil. It did a little bit. I've driven it 8 miles; throughout my neighborhood, to the corner store and back home. Alot of the smoke is gone. I've crawled under it and saw what looked like a thin, clear oil spot on the back corner of the driver side head. I washed the back of the engine and heads to see if it was just run off from the top since I could see a thin trail going up the back of the head. I drove to to the store and home after and checked under the car today and there's a puddle under there now... I rubbed my hand on the back side of the head and didn't feel anything more than a light film so idk. Maybe a coolant leak? My coolant was low this morning so I'll go get a leak tester and check. It's driving me nuts because the water on top of the engine is boiling when I gother back home. I can hear all of the coolant boiling. I topped off the coolant this morning so we'll see.

The car isn't inspected nor registered so tomorrow I'll drive it dirty to get inspected then to get it registered.
 
#1,942 · (Edited)
I ended up pressure testing the coolant system and my radiator was seeping. I got another one locally and went for a test drive. I found the source of the oil leak. It was a minor gap in the sealant for the valve cover.

Here's where the bad news comes in. When I got back from the test drive, I saw smoke from the exhaust. I let it cool down and opened the coolant reservoir and it was bubbling after I started it up and the oil level was high and runny. So, once again, I pulled the engine and took the heads off. I went ahead and replaced the head gaskets again but when I pulled the second head... I saw a gouge in the mating surface where the fire ring is. I had to take it to a local machine shop to fill it and resurface the head.




Got the heads back on and just haven't had ANY motivation to get it back together since I've been waiting to get my title from the CA DMV for 2 weeks now. I don't need to get it inspected but I need the title to get it registered which will come with a 1 year inspection. I did however repaint my engine bay. It's not a perfect match but it sure looks better than it did all scraped up and bare metal since fuel hit the paint and ate it away.



I'm now on assignment to Ft. Riley, KS which is an hour from 2 different regions for autoX and one of those hosting events at Heartland Park which I would absolutely love to join NASA in some HPDE.
 
#1,944 · (Edited)
Yes. The post describing the process is here:
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/4298647-post1935.html

I contacted the lead NASA tech and I need to flip the battery so the negative is by the fender well and add some super thick rubber or plastic between the battery and fender well also.
 
#1,945 ·
I recently got back from another overseas deployment/rotation. I have created a facebook journal for the car to document the cars life since it easier to post pics and comments.

Www.facebook.com/caraddictmotorsportsyeti

I uninstalled the twin disk as it just wasn't daily friendly and ordered an ACT sprung 6 puck disk, HD pressure plate and Streetlite flywheel. I checked the lash and found it to be way out of spec so I'm waiting for the 11 buckets I ordered to arrive (only 2 were good but can move the other three to other valves). I also had to get another battery and got an Optima Red Top and battery tray from Billet Proof again. The car should be in perfect running condition and daily driver friendly again this weekend. I had to apply for a lost title since I couldn't find my original so I can finally register it and start driving it ?

I also made a tool like the Company 23 cam gear tool since I have the Turn in Concepts 17mm cam gear bolts.
 

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#1,946 ·
I recently got back from another overseas deployment/rotation. I have created a facebook journal for the car to document the cars life since it easier to post pics and comments.

Www.facebook.com/caraddictmotorsportsyeti

I uninstalled the twin disk as it just wasn't daily friendly and ordered an ACT sprung 6 puck disk, HD pressure plate and Streetlite flywheel. I checked the lash and found it to be way out of spec so I'm waiting for the 11 buckets I ordered to arrive (only 2 were good but can move the other three to other valves). I also had to get another battery and got an Optima Red Top and battery tray from Billet Proof again. The car should be in perfect running condition and daily driver friendly again this weekend. I had to apply for a lost title since I couldn't find my original so I can finally register it and start driving it ?

I also made a tool like the Company 23 cam gear tool since I have the Turn in Concepts 17mm cam gear bolts.

I have the ACT 6-puck clutch, do really think the twin disk is worst as a daily?
 
#1,947 ·
The car is running and I don't notice any difference between the 6 puck and the full face disk. I don't have any chatter nor marble sounds from the tranny. Engagement is just as smooth as the HDSS kit.

Upon cleaning and further inspection of the twin disk, it looks like the alignment tool didn't have the two disks lined up. The rigid disk (closest to the flywheel) has damaged splines. Weird because I never forced the tranny and engine together. I wonder if that played a factor in the symptoms I had. I'll keep it and replace the disk for when this 6 puck goes out. If nothing else, it'll be good to sell.
 
#1,949 ·
Got a ton of stuff for xmas. Got a front lip, side skirt extensions and rear spats. I ordered a couple wires to fix my defi gauges, got a turbo blanket, dash cam, ss clutch line and other stuff for the shop. Most of it is installed.

The car has an oil leak on the driver side but I need to get under it with the UV light since I added dye. It also steams from the uppipe near the turbo but everything is dry. I even put coolant dye in and nothing ?‍♂?‍♂ Just threw a couple codes yesterday p0011 an p0021 so I'm going to log the OCV duty cycle and AVCS tonight. 450 miles on the build so not sure why they just popped up.
 

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#1,951 ·
I like the sound of the sport q lol

I used the AutoPro UV dye from autozone. Worked like a champ. Having yellow glasses isnt necessary, just helps the dye pop. You do need a UV light though.




I also made a template for a splitter; 4" from the lip.
 
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#1,953 ·
Update on status and current changes.
 
#1,954 ·
I've updated my mod list in the first post.

I taught my son and reinstalled the ID1000s since I feel like the ID1700s would be too much for 91 octane.
58272


I drove the car to work today with no smoke or any issues for the first time in almost 5 years!! o_O
 
#1,955 ·
Got the car to the tuner aaaaaaand, it spun a fucking bearing in the dyno after they tried 3 methods to fix the boost creep it had. Picking the car up on Monday.

I contacted Tial and they feel the boost control issues stemmed from the new turbo flowing a considerable amount of more air coupled with both my valve and the tested 3 port having too small of fittings (my old one had the upgraded 1/4" fittings). They also highly recommended an alternate way of connecting the ports on the wastegates as I had the top ports vented vs being connected (last 3 tuners preferred this way).
58404

Already ordered new CA625 head studs, boost controller, 1/4" fittings, head gaskets and oil cooler. I'll take the avcs gear and oil pump apart and clean them.

I've already been in contact with IAG so after the engine is torn down for a prediagnosis and clearance check, I'll get it boxed up and shipped them to get remachined and built. Hopefully just needs new bearings and they can save the crank and rod. They now use a new PTW spec so it'll get re-bored .005" over as well.

This is how I had the gates connected (worked before but the previous ebcs had 1/4" fittings):
58405

This is how I'll be connecting them as per Tials recommendation for bigger turbos:
58406
 
#1,958 ·
Yes using both ports on the WG is faster/better - why they are there.
 
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