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Springs, Swaybars, Wheel Rates and Frequency

24K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  Toivonen  
#1 ·
I finally got around to putting together some calculations for springs and swaybars, and how they affect overall wheel rates in ride and roll. I wanted to see, for the combination of springs/bars I was running, where that put me in terms of total roll resistance and wheel frequencies. A lot of this info/methods is already out there and known, but I haven't really seen it all put together for the GR so I thought I'd share.

The aftermarket Subaru community is pretty good with information regarding spring rates, and the OEM rates are known. For bars, the diameter information is almost always available. But even though we know the rates/diameters of the bars and springs themselves, there’s still some information missing about how the changes affect the system as a whole. Knowing this information might help understand what kind of impacts any given change makes on the overall handling characteristics and ride quality.

Knowing spring rate and swaybar stiffness is the first part of the equation. The next step is to translate those numbers to the wheel. Since suspensions are comprised of linkages where the springs, bars, and wheels connect at various locations, we need to do some math to figure out what the spring rate “at the wheel” is. The basic equation to translate spring rate to the wheel is

Kw = Ks*(MR)^2
Kw = spring rate at the wheel
Ks = spring rate of the actual spring
MR = Motion Ratio*

The Motion Ratio is defined as the amount of vertical motion present at the spring per a given vertical motion of the wheel.

*depending on where you’re looking, the MR can also be called the Installation Ratio (IR). Sometimes it’s expressed as MR = (IR)^2, but for the purposes here we’ll just consider MR to be the IR. Basically, the ratio of the spring/wheel motion needs to be squared, regardless of what you call it.

The Motion Ratio is affected by a couple of things. The first is the distance that the spring attaches to the control arm relative to where the wheel/hub attachmes (the distance is usually the same for a McStrut but very different for a wishbone/multilink). The other thing that affects the motion ratio is the angle of the spring – this effect can be minimal depending on the spring angle, but once the spring angle starts exceeding 10 degrees it starts to become significant enough to include in calculations (the GR has a nominal SAI value of ~15 deg and nominal caster values of ~6.2). There is a lot of information available on the internet to learn about calculating motion ratios.

If the springs and bars attach at different points on the suspension, then they will each have their own motion ratios. Here are the Motion Ratios I’m using for the following calcs:

0.96 = Front Spring MR (assuming SAI of 17 degrees since I’m running camber plates)
0.67 = Front Bar MR**
0.78 = Rear Spring MR (assuming spring angle of 4 degrees – dunno if this is true but I know it’s not perfectly vertical
0.59 = Rear Bar MR**

(**thanks to senna1a for the measurements seen here:http://www.iwsti.com/forums/3742979-post42.html)

And here are some base values for spring rates that I’ve run (http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2817712-post7.html):)
2008-2010 (non-SE)
Front Spring Rate: 217lb/in
Rear Spring Rate: 194lb/in

2010 SE Springs are stiffer than standard by 16 percent front and 29 percent rear. No mention of lowering.
Front Spring Rate: 251lb/in
Rear Spring Rate: 249lb/in

2011 Springs are stiffer than the previous years by 15.6 percent in front and 53 percent in the rear and lowers the car by 1mm. So that means:
Front Spring Rate: 251lb/in
Rear Spring Rate: 297lb/in

RCE Black Springs lower by 5mm:
Front: 320lb/in
Rear: 320lb/in

RCE Yellow Springs lower by 10-15mm:
Front: 340lb/in
Rear: 340lb/in
And thanks again to senna1a, here is the same info for swaybars***. Note that the rate provided is the force required to deflect the bar at the endlink attachment (http://www.iwsti.com/forums/3742979-post42.html).
Not sure on the sways. Here's some info I've either calculated or collected. Feel free to jump in if you see something that needs adjusted. We can use this for future reference:


GR SWAY BAR INFO
OEM Front (.67 Sway Motion Ratio)
2010 STI bar: 20 mm (400 lbs/in)
2011 STi bar: 21 mm (485 lbs/in)

Eibach front: 25 mm tubular and 2 way adjustable (not sure this is correct)
Position 1 = 82 N/mm (465 lbs/in)
Position 2 = 93 N/mm (528 lbs/in)

RCE front:
25.5 tubular and 2 way adjustable,

Position 1 = 22.7 effective rate (665 lbs/in)​
Position 2 = 23.5 effective rate (770 lbs/in)


Perrin front:
22mm solid and 2 way adj
50% Higher Rate than 20mm / Effective Rate =610 LBS/IN
85% Higher Rate
than 20mm / Effective Rate =740 LBS/IN

Perrin front: 25mm solid and 2 way adj
160% Higher Rate than 20mm / Effective Rate =1030 LBS/IN
215% Higher Rate than 20mm / Effective Rate =1260 LBS/IN


OEM Rears
(.59 Sway Motion Ratio / .77 Shock & Spring)
2012 WRX bar: 16 mm / bar rate: (180 lbs/in)
2010 STI bar: 18 mm / bar rate: (285 lbs/in)
2011 STI bar: 19 mm / bar rate: (360 lbs/in)

Eibach rear: 22 mm tubular and 2 way adjustable
Position 1 = 58 N/mm (332 lbs/in)​
Position 2 = 76 N/mm (432 lbs/in)


RCE rear:
25.5 tubular and 2 way adjustable,
Position 1 = 22.7 effective rate (725 lbs/in)​
Position 2 = 23.5 effective rate (840 lbs/in)


Perrin rear: 22mm solid and 3 way adjustable,

Position 1 = 140% (505 lbs/in)​
Position 2 =
185% (665 lbs/in)
Position 2 = 240% (870 lbs/in)​
***Swaybar rates can vary quite a bit due to material, shape, exact dimensions, but this is the best info available right now and should provide good ballparking info.

One thing to keep in mind with swaybar rates – since the bar is attached at both ends, and roll is symmetrical (the inside wheel droops as much as the outside wheel compresses), the linear “lb/in” of the swaybar needs to be doubled since the swaybar will be twisting twice as much.

So knowing the rates and applying the wheel rate equation, I plugged the values into the different OEM setups and the setups I’ve run. Here’s how the calculations turned out for the springs and bars:
Code:
             Spring  Spring  Wheel   Wheel
             Rate    Rate    Rate    Rate    Front    Rear
             Front   Rear    Front    Rear    Dist     Dist
Springs      (lb/in) (lb/in) (lb/in) (lb/in) (%)      (%)
-----------------------------------------------------------
2008 OEM      217     194     198     117     0.63     0.37
2010 SE       251     249     230     151     0.60     0.40
2011 OEM      251     297     230     180     0.56     0.44
RCE Black     320     320     293     194     0.60     0.40
TIC AST SST   448     448     410     271     0.60     0.40
Code:
          Bar   Bar    Bar  Bar    Wheel   Wheel
          Dia   Rate   Dia  Rate   Rate    Rate    Front Rear
          Front Front  Rear Rear   Front   Rear    Dist  Dist
Bars      (in)  (lb/in)(in) (lb/in)(lb/in) (lb/in) (%)   (%)
-------------------------------------------------------------
2008 OEM    20   400    18   285    359    198     0.64  0.36
2010 SE     20   400    19   360    359    251     0.59  0.41
2011 OEM    21   485    19   360    435    251     0.63  0.37
RCE Soft   22.7  665   22.7  725    597    505     0.54  0.46
RCE Hard   23.5  770   23.5  840    691    585     0.54  0.46
You can see right away that the rollbars add a lot more wheel rate in roll than the springs do. The Front and Rear Dist % columns represent how much percentage of the total rate comes from the front and rear springs or bars. Weight distribution for the GR is about 58F/42R, and it’s interesting to note that the relative front/rear rate distribution of the springs and bars seem to hover around the weight split (not surprising). Also, note that my TIC SST setup is 8k/8k, when it usually comes with 7k front spring (~392 lb/in).

And adding the spring and bars together to determine total wheel rates in roll:
Code:
                                            Front  Rear
                                            Spring Spring
                                 Front Rear Roll   Roll
System    WRf    WRr     WRtot   Dist  Dist Share  Share
Config    (lb/in)(lb/in) (lb/in) (%)   (%)  (%)    (%)
---------------------------------------------------------
2008 OEM     558   316    873   0.64   0.36  0.36  0.37
2010 SE      589   401    990   0.59   0.41  0.39  0.38
2011 OEM     665   430   1095   0.61   0.39  0.35  0.42
RCE Springs
+RCE Fs Rh   890   779   1668   0.53   0.47  0.33  0.25
TIC Springs
+RCE Fs Rh  1007   856   1863   0.54   0.46  0.41  0.32
Again, the Front and Rear Dist % is the percentage of the total wheel rates in roll that are from the front and rear. “WRf” is Wheel Rate Front, “WRr” is Wheel Rate Rear, and “WRtot” is the total wheel rates in roll, WRf+WRr. The last 2 “Roll Share” columns are meant to express how much the springs contribute to the overall roll stiffness (I just made up that term btw). Also the “RCE Fs Rh” indicates RCE swaybars, front soft, rear hard settings.

So a few interesting things, not in any particular order.
  1. Swaybars contribute a lot more to roll control than springs (springs on average contribute upper-30’s % of roll resistance)
  2. The 2011 OEM setup should be about 25% stiffer in overall roll stiffness than the 2008
  3. The RCE bars, assuming the front and rear are set the same (soft or hard), bias roll resistance to the rear by quite a bit (and running front soft rear hard throws the bias way toward the rear). Actually, running the front hard and rear soft comes very close to matching the OEM weight bias (58/42).
  4. The 2010 SE suspension setup, while having a less total roll resistance than the 2011, is a little more rear-biased and is probably the most neutral of the OEM setups (the 1mm increase on front bar dia for the 2011 does more than offset the giant leap in rear spring rate)
  5. The 2008 setup leaves a lot to be desired
  6. My TIC setup is only about 12% stiffer in roll than my RCE spring setup.
  7. My TIC setup is 113% stiffer in roll than the 2008, and 70% stiffer than the 2011.
So using the equations and rates provided above, you can play around with your setups and see where you’re at in terms of roll resistance and wheel rates from your springs and bars.

The last thing here is to give some context to wheel rates. Since cars all don’t weigh the same, a useful way to determine and compare the stiffness of one car to another is to calculate the undamped natural frequency of the spring-mass system. We just calculated the wheel rates, and to figure out the frequencies we need the unsprung mass. For my purposes, I assumed 3373 as the OEM curb weight (this seems pretty accurate), subtracted out estimates for unsprung masses (based on old WRX threads that determined unsprung mass, I added some unsprung weight due to the STI having larger wheels/tires, brakes, etc). Since I’m mostly interested in autocross I also subtracted out weight for trunk junk, floor mats, my muffler delete, running on only ¼ of fuel, and also added in my weight. The equation to calculate NF is 3.13*sqrt(kw/m), where kw is the corner wheel rate in lb/in, and m is the corner weight in lbs. Here are the results (all values in Hz):
Code:
System      Front NF  Rear NF  Front NF  Rear NF
Config      Ride      Ride     Roll      Roll
------------------------------------------------
2008 OEM     1.49     1.43     2.50     2.34
2010 SE      1.60     1.62     2.56     2.64
2011 OEM     1.60     1.77     2.73     2.74
RCE Springs
+RCE Fs Rh   1.81     1.84     3.15     3.68
TIC Springs
+RCE Fs Rh   2.14     2.17     3.35     3.86
The first two columns are ride only, meaning it only takes into account the springs. The last two columns on the right includes the bars (so total roll rate) – I’m not really sure what value that has in and of itself, it’s more a point of context that says “if we were only to rely on springs for our roll control, and wanted to still achieve the roll stiffness that we can get with the corresponding spring/bar configuration, what would our ride frequencies need to be”. Answer: a lot.

In general it’s recommended to have a slightly higher rear frequency in the rear than in the front, but this isn’t really exact science so there are varying opinions. There’s a lot out there in suspension texts and the internet to recommend what frequencies you’d want to be at for what purposes.

So running equal spring rates in the front and rear (2010 SE, RCE, my TIC setup) will result in about equal ride frequencies front and in the rear, and for my setup, ever so slightly higher in the rear. If you run higher spring rates in the rear by 1kg/mm (or ~56 lbs/in), that results in a rear ride frequency about .1-.15 hz greater than the front.

Hopefully this adds some context to springs and bars. One thing to note - this is only looking at springs, bars, and ride/roll rates in a vacuum - there are still many other factors that will address roll and handling (ride heights, roll centers, alignment and alignment change through articulation, damping, etc etc etc).

Also, this is entirely analytical, and is relying on info mainly gathered on the internet :)lol:) - to get more accurate numbers, you could actually measure your motion ratios through a range of travel centered around your ride heights (in fact motion ratios will change through articulation), spring rates are often progressive (especially on OEM shape springs), you could actually measure bar stiffness, etc etc etc...

Hope this helps.
 
#2 · (Edited)
So I plugged in some of the swaybar numbers for myself; results in the table below. The underlined value is what was used for the basis of calculations for the given bar (all others were derived), and all calculations are based on the rates of the 2010 setup (smallest bars). The Wheel Rate is the resultant rate at the wheel, and the "Equivalent Spring Rate" is showing how much spring would be needed (at the respective spring location) to provide the equivalent wheel rate due to the bar.

Rear Bars:
Code:
          Nom                            Eff    Bar   Wheel Equivalent
          Dia          Adj     %Stiffer  Dia    Rate  Rate  Spring Rate
Brand     (mm) Type    Setting than 2010 (mm)   lb/in lb/in lb/in
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
2010 STI  18   Solid   NA          NA    [U]18.0[/U]   285   198   328
2011 STI  19   Solid   NA          24    [U]19.0[/U]   354   246   407
2011 WRX  16   Solid   NA         -38    [U]16.0[/U]   178   124   205
Perrin    19   Solid   Soft        [U]-9[/U]    17.6   259   181   298
Perrin    19   Solid   Med         [U]25[/U]    19.0   356   248   410
Perrin    19   Solid   Hard        [U]60[/U]    20.2   456   317   524
Perrin    22   Solid   Soft        [U]85[/U]    21.0   527   367   606
Perrin    22   Solid   Med        [U]130[/U]    22.2   656   456   754
Perrin    22   Solid   Hard       [U]205[/U]    23.8   869   605   1000
Perrin    25   Solid   Soft       [U]210[/U]    23.9   884   615   1016
Perrin    25   Solid   Med        [U]295[/U]    25.4   1126  784   1295
Perrin    25   Solid   Hard       [U]410[/U]    27.0   1454  1012  1671
Eibach    22   Hollow  Soft        16    18.7   [U]332[/U]   231   382
Eibach    22   Hollow  Hard        52    20.0   [U]432[/U]   301   497
RCE     25.4   Hollow  Soft       153    [U]22.7[/U]   721   502   829
RCE     25.4   Hollow  Hard       191    [U]23.5[/U]   828   576   952
Cobb      22   Hollow  Soft        16    18.7   [U]332[/U]   231   382
Cobb      22   Hollow  Hard        52    20.0   [U]432[/U]   301   497
Front Bars:
Code:
          Nom                            Eff    Bar   Wheel Equivalent
          Dia          Adj     %Stiffer  Dia    Rate  Rate  Spring Rate
Brand     (mm) Type    Setting than 2010 (mm)   lb/in lb/in lb/in
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
2010 STI  20   Solid   NA          NA    [U]20.0[/U]   400   359   393
2011 STI  21   Solid   NA          22    [U]21.0[/U]   486   437   477
2011 WRX  21   Solid   NA          22    [U]21.0[/U]   486   437   477
Perrin    22   Solid   Soft        [U]50[/U]    22.1   600   539   589
Perrin    22   Solid   Hard       [U]160[/U]    25.4   1040  934   1021
Perrin    25   Solid   Soft        [U]85[/U]    23.3   740   664   726
Perrin    25   Solid   Hard       [U]215[/U]    26.6   1260  1131  1237
Eibach    25   Hollow  Soft        16    20.8   [U]465[/U]   417   456
Eibach    25   Hollow  Hard        32    21.4   [U]528[/U]   474   518
RCE     25.4   Hollow  Soft        66    [U]22.7[/U]   664   596   652
RCE     25.4   Hollow  Hard        91    [U]23.5[/U]   762   685   749
Cobb      25   Hollow  Soft        16    20.8   [U]465[/U]   417   456
Cobb      25   Hollow  Hard        32    21.4   [U]528[/U]   474   518
Notice that the Cobb and Eibach bars have the exact same values and both are advertised as hollow 25f/22r. Those Eibach numbers are values I found in other threads, and the Cobb numbers are on their website. So unless someone was misquoting the Eibach numbers, chances are they're the same.
 
#8 ·
Nice... glad you guys find it interesting/useful. I know when I was first learning about suspension, swaybars, and springs, I had a lot of the questions that were answered by going through the math in the first post. e.g. When you see swaybars advertised as xx% or xxx% stiffer than stock, it still doesn't quite tell you what that actually means.

I do notice that my swaybar rates sometimes don't align exactly with senna1a's... I think there may have been some rounding and I didn't try and validate the math until after the first post.
 
#9 ·
I have a question. I don't mean to challenge you or anything, just looking for some discussion. Pretty nice amount of info compiled up there.

I'm not a suspension guru by any means. The only book I read on it was pretty far ahead of my understanding, and I'll have to read it again I think to grasp most of the concepts.

However, when you are talking about the spring rates and frequency response of this stuff, wouldn't end links and their deflection come into play? Or is it a mute point in the end? It may be worth looking into how much more a traditional end link (kartboy) deflects over a spherical one such as the older whitelines. I've wanted to upgrade to a spherical end link for a while actually.

As for another related conversation note, I'd like to compare my 2011 STi 5 door with my friends 05.
My suspension setup:
RCE front/rear sways (I think the rear is on hard, front is soft - could be backwards)
RCE blacks
Stock struts
2011 BBS with RE-11s
Alignment with around -2.5 degrees of front camber, zero toe at all 4 corners

My friends 05:
BC coils (8k/6k) - car is pretty darn low
18x9.5" wheels with hankooks on 'em - forget the offset
stock sways & end links
Alignment has about -1 degree of camber up front and assuming zero toe

The kicker... his car feels like it has nearly zero roll (almost too little) compared to mine. My car actually made my track instructor car sick last time at the track, haha. It's nothing horrid, but you can tell there is a lot of roll in my setup even with the beefy sways and the RCE blacks. I think there is still a lot to be said regarding higher spring rates vs higher sway bar rates.
 
#10 ·
Discussion is good :)

Yeah, endlinks, and don't forget about the swaybar D-bushings, and all other bushings for that matter, will affect the efficiency of the suspension and can introduce additional, hard-to-quantify movement. Endlinks, strut tops, shock mount, control arm bushings... those all complicate and mitigate things, and the GR has a lot of bushings in the rear.

The front endlinks on the GR are already spherical so there shouldn't be much improvement from the aftermarket there compliance wise (although there may be strength-wise). The rear endlinks have a decent-sized bushing to mount to the control arm. There's probably improvement compliance wise - the KB's may not articulate as well since they use poly bushings in a multi-axis role but they seem to work great (and have for a long time) and seem incredibly strong.

Good points about your friends GD - for one, I think in general the GD's just feel much more agile and don't "feel" like they're rolling as much (even though you might be). The other thing is, if your friend is "pretty darn low", I'd bet he's not far off of the bump stops, if not already on them (I know the BC's have very little travel available). If you're riding that low on the bump stops, spring rate get's insanely high very quickly (infinite), which could possibly explain why his car doesn't roll much despite running stock bars. Basically it's bottoming out and has nowhere else to go. That's just a guess though, without knowing anything else about the setup. Any idea what his actual ride heights are?
 
#12 ·
The data provide by Mind is really helpful. Let's assume this is factual data. I hope we can build on it with useful information.

Posts like Heide264's do nothing for the discussion. "(I think the rear is on hard, front is soft - could be backwards)" and comparing a GD to a GR is worthless when it comes to figuring out how to set up a GR.
The comments that are conjecture and unsubstantiated feelings and impressions plus some hyperbole thrown in for good measure do little for the discussion. Try and think about what factual data and measurable results you can provide VS just muddying the waters. For one thing.. leave GD's out of it. What if I started talking about the handling of my X-drive BMW? Well, it's AWD and turbocharged too.
I've read that the setup for GD's and GR's is quite different (like spring rates are basically reversed). Let's focus on GR's and their wheel rates!

There are so many factors to consider and so many end uses for the cars. A DD with near stock camber and stock tires who wants to Auto-X on weekends will be very different from the HPDE car or a dedicated track car. I'm a little surprised at the absence of data for Whiteline bars.
I had a 2011 sedan which I Auto-X'd and tracked and now I have a '08 hatch which has evolved into a track-only car. The amount of horsepower I have made at various times has had a significant effect on the handling and whether it pushes, is neutral or whether I can induce oversteer. I had a hell of a time with my '11, trying to get rid of understeer in autocross. When I got to a fast, opened-up road course it did much better. When I added more power it got even better.
My setup: WL 24MM sways, front and rear, both set on the firmest settings. BC BR coil-overs set to medium damping. 8K springs in front and 11.6K in the rear. I am intentionally trying to stiffen up the rear end to free it up under power and make it more neutral in higher speed turns. I feel I am pretty close to a good compromise setup for me. I run 17" wheels and Toyo 255 888's. I have every firm bushing and mount on the car known to man..., but I feel like stiffer bushings are not that relevant compared to the other major components; they just accentuate things a little more.
I'm here because I am looking for improvements and answers. I welcome input from those who have been there-done that.
 
#13 ·
comparing a GD to a GR is worthless when it comes to figuring out how to set up a GR.
This. The front suspension is similar enough, but the rear is totally different in how it reacts to relative spring rates. The GR is also a bit heavier and that will necessitate different spring rates. Also, the effective leverage on the swaybars from a GD to a GR is different so different size swaybars will have different effects from the same swaybars on a GD.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I would not call my setup stiff (for a race car). My opinion is relative and subjective. It is fairly stiff and very stiff for attempting to street the car...
I have heard of of people running 27mm solid bars! On the track, it is always a trade-off of what what setup work well with which corners. There will usually be corners that are compromised, where wheels lift and where, like Lime Rock Park, there is the wild-card left-hander that you typically don't set your car up for. You focus on the right-handers (much like NASCAR does with left-handers. For HPDE/track day events, few people set their suspensions up in a unique configuration for solely maximizing right-handers or left-handers.
Let's see... I'm trying to decompress before a track day. I got everything done at 4PM. I'll get up at 4:30 in the morning and trailer the car to Lime Rock for an event with NASA.
Let's get the context. I have a journal page. I have pictures and a Shutterfly page that chronicles my mods. I feel the car is pretty neutral at speed and snaps back if I overdo things. In most circumstances, with a relatively flat turn, I feel it is slow to oversteer when I apply full power; almost doesn't happen. I think with more power it would be perfect.
BTW, in hopes that my new engine build will produce 450-480 WHP, I bought Enkei 10.5 wide PF01's and Hoosier 285mm R6 tires.
 
#16 ·
I don't think comparing spring rates between a gd and gr are worthless. You can work out a rough equivalency taking into account the different weight balance and rear suspension geometry.

I brought it up as a case study. Not a conclusive Internet arm chair smiting. Don't be a douche, it is worth talking about it as a case study. I would like to know why comparing the roll rates between the two cars is worthless, aside from some guy on the Internet claiming the GR chassis is a Ferrari compared to the GD. The front suspension between the two is virtually the same and the weight balance is still close. According to minds post, I should be feeling close to the same amount of effective spring rate with my RCE bars and springs as somebody with much much higher spring rates and stock bars.

I still think that the GR chassis responds well in terms of higher spring rates, as opposed to mostly larger sway bars as inferred by the data above. I think my post is very valid considering even if both my RCE bars are on soft, they are much higher on minds list than the stock bars and most other bars regardless of their setting.
 
#17 ·
I still think that the GR chassis responds well in terms of higher spring rates, as opposed to mostly larger sway bars as inferred by the data above. I think my post is very valid considering even if both my RCE bars are on soft, they are much higher on minds list than the stock bars and most other bars regardless of their setting.
I don't think the data infers one way or other if the chassis responds better to springs or bars... but it lays out the math to show how each contributes to overall roll rate. I know a lot of people prefer to run "more spring than bar" and it's proven to be fast. There's a lot more to chassis setup than just roll resistance and roll angle.

The main reason I wanted to see the data is for instances like this: I like the steady state balance of my car, but it seems if I try to step the rear out just a little it can get snap-oversteer very (unpredictably) quickly. I want to try softening the rear bar and running more rear spring to see if that will maintain the balance but be more controllable. So if I set my RCE rear bar to soft, that's a wheel rate reduction of about 80 lb/in (in roll). If I increase rear spring to 10k, that gets me a wheel rate increase of 68 lb/in, which comes close to recovering the swaybar adjustment. So I should come close to maintaining the balance and overall roll resistance, but now the springs will bear more of the load. We'll see how it goes.
 
#18 · (Edited)
This is from Saturday at LRP; coming off the downhill onto the front straight.

Probably around 90, suspension compressed and applying power. What do you think of the body roll? This is with full-stiff 24MM Whitelines. Yes, it's filthy!
I had a good track day. Was faster than everyone on Group 3 which included several prepared M3's.
Image

Didn't get a chance to play with Devin Gregory of EFI Logics in their Subie race car. Never got close to each other.
 
#19 ·
This is from Saturday at LRP; coming off the downhill onto the front straight.
Image Link

Probably around 90, suspension compressed and applying power. What do you think of the body roll? This is with full-stiff 24MM Whitelines. Yes, it's filthy!
Awesome pics. I took a quick ruler to the pic and calculated about 2.0-2.1 degrees of roll. Any ideas what kind of lat accel G's you're pulling there (I'm guessing 1+ easily since you're on 255 888's and it looks banked)? I haven't seen stock measurements for how much a GR rolls, but I know an Evo X was measured to roll 3.3 degrees at 0.94g.