Well before I jumped in and converted my OEM boost gauge to red, I did a search on here to see if I could find some pictures of what I was going to get myself into. I didn't find any threads with pictures or complete instructions, so I figured I would put pictures of mine up...I know it's fairly simple, but I'm sure there are others out there who wouldn't mind seeing these for future reference.
First of all, let me say that the rubber housing around the boost gauge has a really, really good grip on the gauge. It took some time, a few flathead screwdrivers, and some sore thumbs before I got the gauge out of there...
When you are getting the screwdrivers in there, you need to stretch the rubber housing and stick the flathead in (if you don't stretch it by hand, the screwdriver won't make it very far in there). Also, avoid putting a screwdriver at the top (12 o'clock position) as the power connector is there and you don't want to break it. I didn't know this until I had the gauge out, so avoid that mistake. One last picture with the white gauge, just so people can see the difference...
After the gauge was out, I unplugged the brown power connector (it is at the top of the gauge, just a simple push and it slid right off). There is a small black piece under this power connector - it holds the bulb. Turn it counter-clockwise (if you are facing the back of the gauge) and with about a quarter-turn it will come out. Pull it straight out - the OEM gauge has a blue bulb condom on it. I tried to pull the condom off without tearing it, but it's very thin and rips easily.
The hole in the picture below is where the bulb came out of (sorry, it's a crappy, blurry picture)
The red bulb condoms (ordered from parts express, these are the ones I bought) are a little longer than the bulb, so I had to cut off about 1/4" from the end.
All ready to go back in...
Line the gauge up with "TURBO" horizontally (unless you want to rotate it...) and then push it back into the rubber cup. Here's how it turned out:
Yes, the red needle on the boost gauge is a bit hard to see, but the white lighting on the boost gauge used to glare a lot, and this is much easier on the eyes at night.
First of all, let me say that the rubber housing around the boost gauge has a really, really good grip on the gauge. It took some time, a few flathead screwdrivers, and some sore thumbs before I got the gauge out of there...
When you are getting the screwdrivers in there, you need to stretch the rubber housing and stick the flathead in (if you don't stretch it by hand, the screwdriver won't make it very far in there). Also, avoid putting a screwdriver at the top (12 o'clock position) as the power connector is there and you don't want to break it. I didn't know this until I had the gauge out, so avoid that mistake. One last picture with the white gauge, just so people can see the difference...
After the gauge was out, I unplugged the brown power connector (it is at the top of the gauge, just a simple push and it slid right off). There is a small black piece under this power connector - it holds the bulb. Turn it counter-clockwise (if you are facing the back of the gauge) and with about a quarter-turn it will come out. Pull it straight out - the OEM gauge has a blue bulb condom on it. I tried to pull the condom off without tearing it, but it's very thin and rips easily.
The hole in the picture below is where the bulb came out of (sorry, it's a crappy, blurry picture)
The red bulb condoms (ordered from parts express, these are the ones I bought) are a little longer than the bulb, so I had to cut off about 1/4" from the end.
All ready to go back in...
Line the gauge up with "TURBO" horizontally (unless you want to rotate it...) and then push it back into the rubber cup. Here's how it turned out:
Yes, the red needle on the boost gauge is a bit hard to see, but the white lighting on the boost gauge used to glare a lot, and this is much easier on the eyes at night.