[lxlplaylxl]

Hello All,

newbie here, just got my AP a few days ago and had a couple questions about the stage 2 AP tune. FYI I'm in socal.

1. Anyone in socal running it? How do you like it?

2. To run Stage 2 I need a turbo back exhaust... Can anyone recommend a QUIET tbe? No real preference on style, just don't want to be heard from a block away, I drive fast a lot and rely pretty heavily on not being noticed. Think I can get away with keeping the stock muffler?

3. Any word on a stage 2 w/ intake? I guess this could also be a stage 3.

Cheers.

[Digitalfiend]

Originally Posted by lxlplaylxl

2. To run Stage 2 I need a turbo back exhaust... Can anyone recommend a QUIET tbe? No real preference on style, just don't want to be heard from a block away, I drive fast a lot and rely pretty heavily on not being noticed. Think I can get away with keeping the stock muffler?

You can go stage 2 with just a downpipe and retain the stock catback piece. You might leave about 5-10whp on the table with this route. Big deal.

Originally Posted by lxlplaylxl

3. Any word on a stage 2 w/ intake? I guess this could also be a stage 3.

Cheers.

An intake probably doesn't make it stage 3. "Stages" are usually relative to a specific performance shop. For instance, AMR considers "stage 1" to be their tune+CAI, where as Cobb is just a tune.

Cobb does not recommend the use of an intake system with the off-the-shelf maps (i.e. the ones that come with the AP), stage 1 or stage 2. The reason is that altering the intake can cause issues with the MAF tuning in the map and result in a leaner tune, sometimes to the point of being dangerous. Some people have run stage 1/2 with an intake without issues, but if you get an intake, you might as well cough up the $200-300 for a Protune.

You're in SoCal so you have a great selection of tuners to choose from.

[GilMikalian]

Originally Posted by lxlplaylxl

Hello All,

newbie here, just got my AP a few days ago and had a couple questions about the stage 2 AP tune. FYI I'm in socal.

1. Anyone in socal running it? How do you like it?

2. To run Stage 2 I need a turbo back exhaust... Can anyone recommend a QUIET tbe? No real preference on style, just don't want to be heard from a block away, I drive fast a lot and rely pretty heavily on not being noticed. Think I can get away with keeping the stock muffler?

3. Any word on a stage 2 w/ intake? I guess this could also be a stage 3.

Cheers.

1. Well I know of at least one...me. Stage 2 really takes the STI to the next level. Worth every penny.

2. To run Stage 2, all you NEED is a downpipe and engine management (e.g. AccessPORT). That's all I've got and I'm at full turbo-back numbers. This is a good option if you don't mind the looks and sound of the stock cat-back exhaust.

3. Stage 3, I believe is a bigger turbo and other major mods to the engine. CAI is still considered Stage 2. You're probably not going to see noticeable gains (i.e. butt dyno) in power from a CAI.

[lxlplaylxl]

Wow, thanks for the speedy response. Any recommendations for a dp intake and socal tuner? I'm in the OC, it would be awesome if I could I order everything and have in installed and tuned at the same shop.

[GilMikalian]

Originally Posted by Digitalfiend

Cobb does not recommend the use of an intake system with the off-the-shelf maps (i.e. the ones that come with the AP), stage 1 or stage 2. The reason is that altering the intake can cause issues with the MAF tuning in the map and result in a leaner tune, sometimes to the point of being dangerous. Some people have run stage 1/2 with an intake without issues, but if you get an intake, you might as well cough up the $200-300 for a Protune.

You're in SoCal so you have a great selection of tuners to choose from.

Looks like you were quicker to the trigger! I just read in another thread that Harman Motive (in Torrance) has a CAI for 2 bills that gives about 15 ft# of torque across a good chunk of the rev range and that their CAI does NOT need a pro-tune...which runs about $450 at their shop, or at least did when I went in in April.

[Digitalfiend]

Originally Posted by GilMikalian

Looks like you were quicker to the trigger! I just read in another thread that Harman Motive (in Torrance) has a CAI for 2 bills that gives about 15 ft# of torque across a good chunk of the rev range and that their CAI does NOT need a pro-tune...which runs about $450 at their shop, or at least did when I went in in April.

It really depends on the diameter of the intake piping, MAF position, etc. I find it hard to believe you can get 15wtq across the powerband without some map tweaking. Maybe they are relying on the intake leaning out the otherwise stock tune, which is grossly rich.

Either way, the Cobb maps are definitely not tuned with a CAI in mind. So maybe a CAI on a stock car is OK but I'd be leary of using one with the Cobb stage 1/2 ots maps.

[Digitalfiend]

Originally Posted by lxlplaylxl

Wow, thanks for the speedy response. Any recommendations for a dp intake and socal tuner? I'm in the OC, it would be awesome if I could I order everything and have in installed and tuned at the same shop.

You'll get a LOT of recommendations here. Personally, I prefer divorced wastegate designs over bellmouths. There is only one true divorced downpipe for the '08 right now and it is what is called a "shorty" downpipe.

The best way for me to describe this is that a full downpipe is comprised of two parts: the front section, which contains the first cat and attaches to the turbo, and the rear section which contains the 2nd cat and O2 sensor. Replacing the downpipe yields the most power gains (with tuning) because you reduce backpressure with larger piping and generally lose one or both cats (or you end up with one or two high-flow cats).

A full downpipe, which runs about $500-600, replaces the front AND rear (sometimes as one piece) and usually comes with a high-flow cat (to reduce backpressure over the stock cat).
Example of a full downpipe:
CobbTuning.com - SS 3" Downpipe

A shorty downpipe replaces the first section and is usually $200-300. With a shorty, you'll either retain the stock rear section or replace it with an aftermarket rear section.
Example of a shorty downpipe + rear section to make a "full" downpipe:

MadDad 3" divorced wastegate downpipe "shorty":
MadDad 08 WRX/STi/LGT Shorty Catless Downpipe :: Downpipes :: Exhausts :: Daddy's Sport Compact Performance

Perrin downpipe rear section:
Perrin Performance - DownPipe Upgrade Rear Section

One thing to look for in the front section is whether it has a port/bung/hole for a wideband sensor, which is used for precise tuning of air-fuel mixture (to yield maximum safe power).

By the way, the exhaust section after the full downpipe is what is known as a catback. A catback consists of two sections, the intermediary pipe and the axle back or muffler. Generally, aftermarket catbacks do not add a lot of power and are typically for asthetics such as look and sound.