[mofoSTI]

Originally Posted by AndyDuncan

Here's a picture of the new 1-speed transmission in the Tesla:

That looks like an enterglatic cheeseburger maker than a tranny

[sutter2k]

Originally Posted by inpuressa

lol future of cars?

YouTube - Electric car vs Ferrari

YouTube - Dodge Viper 500 hp Vs Tzero Electric Car - See Who Wins

Might sound nice for a sound bite, but
I would argue that they are comparing street cars with a frame. Add another 1000 + lbs for air bags, sound proofing and an actual interior to the electric car and redo the race.

How much juice is left after than romp as well?

(half serious/unserious thought below)

safety regs != performance
safety regs != green
safety regs != fun

If we could still throw a bunch of kids in the back of a wagon without breaking the law, an SUV would not be required (nor would heavy ass baby seats for bigger kids)

Its safety laws that are killing the enviroment.

[delta one]

Im with you on that

[Rootus]

How many people outside of these forums know about the stop sale? What percentage of STI buyers comes to these forums before making a purchase, or after for that matter?

I think it is too easy to blow stuff all out of proportion when it gets online. From a Subaru reliability standpoint, the bad news spreads like wildfire, and good news isn't even news. It's much like Mitsubishi, but backwards. They've been having a lot of problems with the X, but is it big news? No, not even over at EvoM -- people expect it.

Subaru will fix any cars that do show the issue, verify the rest are not a problem, and offer extended warranties to anybody who whines sufficiently. Most regular folks will never even know it happened.

[torquemada]

sorry, I don´t get it...since when is copper magnetic

What is the deal with the magnetic oil drain plug

And a photo is the referal hopefully the mechanic don´t wear muddy glasses

Bah, it stinks

Originally Posted by chelidon

New info from That Other List, confirming the copper in the oil diagnostic (from SubaruNet): BTW, someone let me know if it's considered bad posting etiquette to cross-post here from nasioc (or vice versa), thought you all would want to see this...

Subaru issue turbo STOP SALE on certain 08-09 models - Page 16 - News & Rumors - NASIOC

Turbo Engine Stop Sale checking Procedure
On April 7, 2008 we informed you of a stop sale order on 2008 Impreza, STi and Legacy vehicles and 2009 Forester vehicles equipped with 2.5L Turbo Engines and produced with the beginning chassis number/production dates and later as shown below:

Model Body Type Chassis Number Production Date
Forester Wagon 701045 or later 2008/01/08 or later
Legacy 2.5GT-LTD 222825 or later 2008/02/04 or later
2.5GT-B 222958 or later
OBK 2.5XT-LTD 353835 or later 2008/02/01 or later
Impreza Sedan 523363 or later 2008/01/08 or later
Wagon 825183 or later

We took this action as a “Customer First” preventive action as we had confirmed, in other markets, that there was a small possibility of an “Engine Knocking Noise” caused by a contamination in the area of the connecting rod big end journal at very low mileage/time in service.

The action was successful in preventing the potential of failures for our customers.

Subaru has defined a screening process that you must perform to all of the affected vehicles in your inventory before delivery to a customer or putting in demonstrator service.

The screening process consists of several steps to inspect the condition of the engine oil to determine if the engine is not affected by the contamination, is already damaged, or has a potential for damage.

Both a flow chart and detailed instruction sheet of the process are included in this document. Each step must be followed exactly, no short cuts.

As soon as the engine is determined to be in proper working condition, it can be sold or put into demo service.

To perform the screening, you will need the following materials for each vehicle:
• New magnetic Oil Pan Drain Plug (1) (32103KA000 - only this P/N is acceptable)
• New Oil Drain Plug Gasket (1) (11126AA000)
• New Oil Filter (1) (15208AA100)
• Engine Oil 5w30
• Filter paper (such as a standard automotive funnel type paint filter)
• Clear plastic “wash bottle” 16oz (500ml), with angled flexible snorkel:

Please order a plastic wash bottle, 16 ounce (500ml / 500cc), translucent color for observing the color of the oil. The cap and pick-up tube colors are not important for this test. We suggest using the following suppliers and supply houses to locate the plastic wash bottle or equivalent:
• W.W. Grainger Supply, Inc. - Grainger Industrial Supply
• Fisher Scientic, Inc. - Fisher Scientific - Welcome
• Most Medical Supply Locations
• Most Beauty Supply Locations

Note: It is important that the opening at the tip of the flexible snorkel be at least 3mm inside diameter in order to properly allow any contamination that may be present in the bottom of the oil pan to pass through into the bottle. It may be necessary to trim the flexible snorkel to obtain the 3mm opening. See picture in flowchart on page 4.

Detailed Instructions
You will need to refer to the flow chart provided to follow this written procedure and refer to the photos and graphics for examples.

Always follow all environmental and hazardous waste handling precautions to prevent any contamination or safety issues.

Engine Screening Procedure One

1) Drain the engine oil through the drain plug.

2) Using the wash bottle, insert the tip of the snorkel through the drain hole, ensuring that the tip is between the bottom of the pick-up screen and the oil pan. Note: The wash bottle can be re-used, but it must be thoroughly cleaned with aqueous parts cleaner and dried. All residual oil, particles and cleaner must be removed to ensure that no false judgments are made.

3) Siphon the remaining oil and residue from the oil pan as shown in the drawing (approximately 100cc).

4) Observe the color and clarity of the oil in the wash bottle, and compare it to the examples in the photo found on the flowchart on page 4.
NOTE: If the wash bottle is not clear, pour the oil and residue into a clear glass container to make a good judgment.

5) If the oil is clear, the engine is okay.
A) Replace the oil filter, install a new magnetic Oil Plug and new Oil Plug Gasket, and refill with fresh engine oil.

Engine Screening Procedure Two

6) If the oil clarity or color matches the “Needs Check” samples, strain the oil through the filter paper and capture the material residue.
A)If there are copper particles larger that 1 mm in the material residue, the engine is damaged. Immediately submit an E-QMR and wait for further instructions.
NOTE: It may be necessary to clean the particles to determine if they are copper. Copper is reddish in color. There may be very small particles of other materials that are typical of a new engine, such as silicon, aluminum and ferrous (steel or magnetic) content, that do not indicate any failure.
B)If there are no copper particles, or they are smaller than 1 mm, proceed to step 7.

7) Install a new magnetic Oil Drain Plug, reusing the original gasket and engine oil filter, and refill the engine with fresh oil.

8)Start the engine and let it idle for five (5) minutes to flush any residue from the oil passages.
A)Stop the engine, drain the oil, remove and replace the oil filter, clean and reinstall the magnetic drain pug, using the new gasket.
B)Refill with fresh oil.

9)Re-start the engine and let it idle for 5 minutes.
Note: Be sure to allow the Air Pump operation to complete its cycle. It will be difficult to distinguish any engine noise while the pump is operating.
A)Quickly rev and release the engine to 6,000 rpm at least 10 (ten) times. Caution: Do not exceed 6000 rpm or hold above the red line.
Note: Be sure to follow the “Reving Procedure” found on the flow chart located on page 4.
B)Let the engine idle for a few seconds; then increase and decrease the rpm slowly to 2500 rpm, while listening for abnormal lower end engine noise.

10) If lower end engine noise is evident, immediately stop the engine and submit an E-QMR and wait for further instructions.

11) If no noise, the engine is okay, and the vehicle can be released for retail sale.

[samleeiii]

A local dealership called me yesterday to tell me they're selling cars now.

[pwn]

Originally Posted by samleeiii

A local dealership called me yesterday to tell me they're selling cars now.

Mine said not for 3 days

[samleeiii]

Originally Posted by pwn

Mine said not for 3 days

Damn sorry to hear that. The guy who called told me none of the cars on the west coast were even affected.

[chelidon]

Originally Posted by samleeiii

A local dealership called me yesterday to tell me they're selling cars now.

Mine was cleared yesterday, I should be picking it up later today -- they were waiting for the magnetic drain plug to get overnighted in so they can release it. I'll actually believe it when it's actually in my garage

I got the dealership to put my Rally Armor mudflaps on for me while it's getting PDId -- figure it's in their best interest as well as mine to prevent paint damage, and I want those things on for the drive home...

[Bownse]

Originally Posted by scoopman

Okay, so now we know what procedure the dealer is supposed to do before selling a car that is past the VIN range.... So how does a prospective buyer ensure that this was done and they haven't just bought the dealer's problem? Just take their word?

We all know we can trust a car salesman who hasn't been able to sell any cars for over two weeks now...

I think it is probably wiser to wait until there is an upper bound on the VIN range affected by the potentially bad parts causing the wear, or else it's clear that the car you're buying came in after this Monday so it was checked before being released to the dealer network.

The buyer's interests are aligned here with SoA's (in not releasing any cars with defects to their dealers to be sold) -- not necessarily with that of the dealer (in moving cars off their lots).

add a line entry in your sales contract. reference something like:

[dealership] agrees to buy back [car model vin] at original purchase price [including all taxes and associated fees] in the event of any mechanical issues associated with the Subaru "Stop Sale" notice of [date].

[pwn]

Originally Posted by Bownse

add a line entry in your sales contract. reference something like:

[dealership] agrees to buy back [car model vin] at original purchase price [including all taxes and associated fees] in the event of any mechanical issues associated with the Subaru "Stop Sale" notice of [date].

That seems like a deal that would have to be made with SOA, not the dealership......

[Bownse]

If they sell it, they can sign it. They may choose not to and you may attempt to get SOA to sign such an agreement but bottom line is that you always have the option to walk. If they dealership is so all-fired confident of their fix then why balk at signing off on the addition? And that's exactly the question to ask if they balk.

[STIcer]

Originally Posted by Bownse

If they sell it, they can sign it. They may choose not to and you may attempt to get SOA to sign such an agreement but bottom line is that you always have the option to walk. If they dealership is so all-fired confident of their fix then why balk at signing off on the addition? And that's exactly the question to ask if they balk.

I bet you they would try pushing the extended warranty on you then...

[Bownse]

Originally Posted by STIcer

I bet you they would try pushing the extended warranty on you then...

and you then as, "for free as a sign of your confidence?"

[SirMattieP]

WTF im so confused, like seriously what do you do before you buy the car? Or do you just not care cause you have warranty... Cause i had a meeting today with a Sales guy, and said their expecting a DGM by then end of this month... which hes gonna hold for me and on sunday we have another meeting in which we could do paper work.. Sounds kinda fishy to me. What do you think?