[thekiffer]

I am getting the squeaking noise randomly in reverse. It also is starting to pull under load. Finally, it sometimes just doesn't want to stop. I notice it most when I am coming to a stop and I see the cross walk and start breaking and it feels like it should stop but the car just doesn't apply the brake force and I roll into the cross walk by a few feet. This is usually coming from a speed of 45 to 0 At higher speeds speeds like 70 to 30 it responds appropriately. Got to love commuting.


I have been really trying not to put full force on the brakes so that I break them in right. It is hard with commuting but I haven't been jamming on the brakes.

[HRCboy]

Which trackday are you heading too? I've got Portland Apr. 28th and Mission June 6th.

I got new pads and rotors... so far so good. If any more problems I'm taking it back to the dealer and instead of getting the same stock stuff i'm going to order aftermarket pads and rotors and just sell the new rotors and pads to offset the cost.

I ran the 2 piece stoptech rotors and they were awesome. I've heard good things about the D2500 as well. Let me know if you need a set of ferodos I've got a local hook up for that.

Originally Posted by freeman

OK. I have to give up.

The new replacement pads installed by dealer are the same crappy pads,and i already got the same old grinding noise after one week(normal street driving).

I have a track day coming very soon,and i simply can't trust these oem pads anymore.

I will have some Ferodo 2500 + SS lines + ATE super blue soon.
Maybe DBA rotors as well.

[bigd]

Originally Posted by thekiffer

I am getting the squeaking noise randomly in reverse. It also is starting to pull under load. Finally, it sometimes just doesn't want to stop. I notice it most when I am coming to a stop and I see the cross walk and start breaking and it feels like it should stop but the car just doesn't apply the brake force and I roll into the cross walk by a few feet. This is usually coming from a speed of 45 to 0 At higher speeds speeds like 70 to 30 it responds appropriately. Got to love commuting.


I have been really trying not to put full force on the brakes so that I break them in right. It is hard with commuting but I haven't been jamming on the brakes.

Were the pads broken in properly to begin with? Applying full force is part of the break-in process. Just dropping in new pads and going for a spin won't cut it, ESPECIALLY on used rotors. I don't understand how the car "just won't stop" unless the pads are badly glazed or the unlikely event that you have air in the brake lines.

If you're willing to try and fix it yourself, pull the pads and thoroughly scuff the surface with sandpaper on a concrete floor or work bench until they have a dull "fresh" surface. Reinstall them with some anti-squeal stuff on the back of the pads. (You may also want to try a pad surface compound the help the break-in, it soaks into the surface of the pad material). Go out and break them in properly and see if the problem still exists.

edit:
BTW did I spot you on eastbound c470 last week? I was in the blue STi...

[thekiffer]

Originally Posted by bigd

Were the pads broken in properly to begin with? Applying full force is part of the break-in process. Just dropping in new pads and going for a spin won't cut it, ESPECIALLY on used rotors. I don't understand how the car "just won't stop" unless the pads are badly glazed or the unlikely event that you have air in the brake lines.

If you're willing to try and fix it yourself, pull the pads and thoroughly scuff the surface with sandpaper on a concrete floor or work bench until they have a dull "fresh" surface. Reinstall them with some anti-squeal stuff on the back of the pads. (You may also want to try a pad surface compound the help the break-in, it soaks into the surface of the pad material). Go out and break them in properly and see if the problem still exists.

edit:
BTW did I spot you on eastbound c470 last week? I was in the blue STi...

I don't think it was me on C470 haven't been on there with this car yet. I only have 400 miles on the car so I have not put anything that was used on it. These are not used rotors or new pads. This is a new car with new rotors and new pads.

[bigd]

Originally Posted by thekiffer

I don't think it was me on C470 haven't been on there with this car yet. I only have 400 miles on the car so I have not put anything that was used on it. These are not used rotors or new pads. This is a new car with new rotors and new pads.

Ah ok, for some reason I thought the dealer had given you replacement pads. My point was, once the rotors are used once, they're not new anymore because the wear patterns are unique each time, and replacement pads may not wear in correctly on used rotors.

Try going out to an empty road and laying into the brakes a few hard times. If I had to venture a guess, I'd suspect the rotors have uneven pad deposits (since the pads deposit a thin layer of material on the rotors for friction). Here's the procedure I follow when bedding in new pads:

1: Get to 30-40mph, and very firmly slow to 5-10mph (but don't stop). repeat 2-3 more times.
2: Get to 50-60mph, and do the same to 5-20mph (again, don't stop). Repeat a couple more times.
3: Get to 70-80mph and do the same thing again. Let the brakes cool for quite a while before you come to a stop. (i.e. get on the freeway for 15-20 minutes or just used the brakes very very lightly and don't hold them at a stoplight so they cool evenly).

The idea is to get on the brakes firmly enough so the car is slowing very hard, but not hard enough to engage ABS. (Honestly with this car you should feel you face starting to peel away from your skull). This process gradually heats up the pads and rotors so the pad material is deposited evenly. When you're about finished you should smell the brakes.

[supermarkus]

Also, keep in mind that we've NEVER been impressed with the stock pads for track use. Ever. They're pretty much garbage for the track and they dust like crazy.

[thekiffer]

Originally Posted by bigd

Ah ok, for some reason I thought the dealer had given you replacement pads. My point was, once the rotors are used once, they're not new anymore because the wear patterns are unique each time, and replacement pads may not wear in correctly on used rotors.

Try going out to an empty road and laying into the brakes a few hard times. If I had to venture a guess, I'd suspect the rotors have uneven pad deposits (since the pads deposit a thin layer of material on the rotors for friction). Here's the procedure I follow when bedding in new pads:

1: Get to 30-40mph, and very firmly slow to 5-10mph (but don't stop). repeat 2-3 more times.
2: Get to 50-60mph, and do the same to 5-20mph (again, don't stop). Repeat a couple more times.
3: Get to 70-80mph and do the same thing again. Let the brakes cool for quite a while before you come to a stop. (i.e. get on the freeway for 15-20 minutes or just used the brakes very very lightly and don't hold them at a stoplight so they cool evenly).

The idea is to get on the brakes firmly enough so the car is slowing very hard, but not hard enough to engage ABS. (Honestly with this car you should feel you face starting to peel away from your skull). This process gradually heats up the pads and rotors so the pad material is deposited evenly. When you're about finished you should smell the brakes.

Thanks, very helpful!

P.S. Someone else on this thread did have the pads replaced.

[BMonkey]

Originally Posted by bigd

Were the pads broken in properly to begin with? Applying full force is part of the break-in process. Just dropping in new pads and going for a spin won't cut it, ESPECIALLY on used rotors. I don't understand how the car "just won't stop" unless the pads are badly glazed or the unlikely event that you have air in the brake lines.

If you're willing to try and fix it yourself, pull the pads and thoroughly scuff the surface with sandpaper on a concrete floor or work bench until they have a dull "fresh" surface. Reinstall them with some anti-squeal stuff on the back of the pads. (You may also want to try a pad surface compound the help the break-in, it soaks into the surface of the pad material). Go out and break them in properly and see if the problem still exists.

edit:
BTW did I spot you on eastbound c470 last week? I was in the blue STi...

To add a little bit to this...

I find it works real well to make a mild-soap and water mix and get some extremely fine grit sandpaper (I like 2000) and wet sand the discs. Then I used a cloth with the soap and water to wipe down the disc, and a dry one to clean it all off. You'd be amazed how much nasty s*** comes off of them doing this. Just keep with the natural direction of the discs when sanding and don't overdo it.

Another thing to try if you're just getting the brake squeal and not the loss of stopping power. Pull the brake pads and use a soft plastic bristle brush and brush out the grooves on the pad face. Often times brake dust can build up in here and cause a harmonic to form (which is manifested as a squeal). Reassemble when done and that might help. If it doesn't, it's not like you've lost hundreds of dollars in parts or anything

[freeman]

Originally Posted by HRCboy

Which trackday are you heading too? I've got Portland Apr. 28th and Mission June 6th.

I got new pads and rotors... so far so good. If any more problems I'm taking it back to the dealer and instead of getting the same stock stuff i'm going to order aftermarket pads and rotors and just sell the new rotors and pads to offset the cost.

I ran the 2 piece stoptech rotors and they were awesome. I've heard good things about the D2500 as well. Let me know if you need a set of ferodos I've got a local hook up for that.

I got the PDC track day on May 12 and BMW club track day on May 27 both at Mission. I will be heading to Portland when i am confident enough with my track driving skills.(probably sometime next year or later)

I am interested in getting a pair of 2-piece slotted rotors for front and one-piece slotted for rear .

StopTech 2-piece are a little bit cheaper than the DBA ones. Where did you get your StopTech rotors?

If you got them locally for a good price, Could you please pm me that information?

I already got ferodo 2500s for my car,and they will be installed next week.

[PortlandSTI]

I have track time on Friday, so I decided to quit the stock pads all together and get the Ferado 2500 pads. I will report back later on how they perform. I just didnt want to ruin a track day with crappy stock pads.

[DanRyMore]

I'm sorry, but, the 2008 STi Brakes suck for the way they feel and for the incredibly horrible noises they make. These problems, along with the others, are expected from a Harley Davidson, not a $40K Japanese Rally Car. My 2007 STi NEVER had brake noise, never popped out of 2nd gear every other downshift, and ran like a bat outta hell!! I love Subaru (purchased 3 in 2007), but there is NO excuse for these issues. This clearly sounds like Subaru released the car a little prematurely and the consumer is paying for it. I am reading threads of people with new '08's trying to fix the problems on there own.....STOP....take the heap back to the dealer as many times as it takes for them to get it right. If I keep having the same issues, I'll claim lemon law and revert back to an '07 STI, or simply buy the underpowered, yet highly reliable '08 EVO X...."did I say that out loud"?

[thekiffer]

That is how I feel too. Problem is the dealer only has to change why they believe it is a problem in order to remove juristiction of the lemon law.

Originally Posted by Dan Moretti

I'm sorry, but, the 2008 STi Brakes suck for the way they feel and for the incredibly horrible noises they make. These problems, along with the others, are expected from a Harley Davidson, not a $40K Japanese Rally Car. My 2007 STi NEVER had brake noise, never popped out of 2nd gear every other downshift, and ran like a bat outta hell!! I love Subaru (purchased 3 in 2007), but there is NO excuse for these issues. This clearly sounds like Subaru released the car a little prematurely and the consumer is paying for it. I am reading threads of people with new '08's trying to fix the problems on there own.....STOP....take the heap back to the dealer as many times as it takes for them to get it right. If I keep having the same issues, I'll claim lemon law and revert back to an '07 STI, or simply buy the underpowered, yet highly reliable '08 EVO X...."did I say that out loud"?

[Brand]

Originally Posted by Dan Moretti

I'm sorry, but, the 2008 STi Brakes suck for the way they feel and for the incredibly horrible noises they make. These problems, along with the others, are expected from a Harley Davidson, not a $40K Japanese Rally Car. My 2007 STi NEVER had brake noise, never popped out of 2nd gear every other downshift, and ran like a bat outta hell!! I love Subaru (purchased 3 in 2007), but there is NO excuse for these issues. This clearly sounds like Subaru released the car a little prematurely and the consumer is paying for it. I am reading threads of people with new '08's trying to fix the problems on there own.....STOP....take the heap back to the dealer as many times as it takes for them to get it right. If I keep having the same issues, I'll claim lemon law and revert back to an '07 STI, or simply buy the underpowered, yet highly reliable '08 EVO X...."did I say that out loud"?

I want to know how you've gotten the impression that the EVO X is reliable...

[DanRyMore]

I'm glad someone else agrees with me!! We're not talking about a $7K Kia Rio! These are an average man's supercar with a long history of reliability. By the way, my front left wheel well fell off today on the freeway. Another *****in' problem. I hit nothing...my dealer said that the force of the air pulled the tabs that hold it in place out. These tabs take 2 weeks to get from Subaru along with the transmission parts that are causing the car to pop out of 2nd. My dealer knows me very well and knows I don't put up with any BS. This is complete BS. I think Subaru is completely puzzled

My neighbor bought an '08 Evo which he let me drive...other than the power issue, or lack thereof, the car is simply amazing. This car will out handle the STi, it has no ****-pit creaks, and is available for $33K out the door (at least in my area). I hate to post threads like this, but when I'm told that the car I buy is one of the best cars made and I'm having more problems than a Corvette, it makes me mad!

[DanRyMore]

Because he's got 7,000 more miles on his car than mine and his gears aren't popping out, his wheel wells are falling off, his paint isn't chipping, his brakes don't sound like they are metal on metal, when he adjusts his head-lights, his left and right mirrors don't move......I've got more if you need it!!