[MaStA]

Originally Posted by GilMikalian

Absolutely works. I put in a quote request. The dealer emailed me. I let them know I can go 500 over invoice and it was a done deal. Faxed the credit app, I faxed that back with my license and insurance card and all I had to do was go in to sign the paperwork...after I drove the car of course. Absolute best way to go. In & out w/in an hour, max.

I've found that the internet departments are starting to get the point of the internet. They don't try the "why don't you come in" line...as much.

To the OP, good luck and stick to your guns. You're paying a lot of money and there's no reason why you shouldn't get exactly what you want for what you feel is a good deal.

Thank you. So you paid $500 invoice OTD with tax and the other million fees involved? If so that is a smokin deal and would love to get my hands on that.

Jared

[Rootus]

Originally Posted by MaStA

Thank you. So you paid $500 invoice OTD with tax and the other million fees involved? If so that is a smokin deal and would love to get my hands on that.

It's near impossible to compare OTD prices because everybody pays a different tax. You'd be hard pressed to get the OTD price that I can here in Oregon . For purposes of shopping and comparing, I'd focus on getting a good price for the car itself and let the tax & fees work themselves out.

On an unrelated note -- are you at Tinker AFB? Saw the Oklahoma City in your profile and was curious. I spent a few years at Tinker about ten years ago...

[drdome99]

Originally Posted by GilMikalian

Absolutely works. I put in a quote request. The dealer emailed me. I let them know I can go 500 over invoice and it was a done deal. Faxed the credit app, I faxed that back with my license and insurance card and all I had to do was go in to sign the paperwork...after I drove the car of course. Absolute best way to go. In & out w/in an hour, max.

I've found that the internet departments are starting to get the point of the internet. They don't try the "why don't you come in" line...as much.

To the OP, good luck and stick to your guns. You're paying a lot of money and there's no reason why you shouldn't get exactly what you want for what you feel is a good deal.

Did the same thing with my '04. Got a set price over email, got my insurance and loan lined up on my own before going to the dealership, so when I went in to the dealership all I did was sign and drive, I was in the office for about 15-20 mins, none of that 30-1hr bull**** arguing over price, trade-in, financing, etc

lots of dealerships have internet specials and internet sales people, can be a lot easier when they cant read your body language and get you to do things you really dont want to. They know you are interested you are emailing them so you either get a price you like or don't, theres no pressure being put on you.

[MaStA]

Originally Posted by Rootus

It's near impossible to compare OTD prices because everybody pays a different tax. You'd be hard pressed to get the OTD price that I can here in Oregon . For purposes of shopping and comparing, I'd focus on getting a good price for the car itself and let the tax & fees work themselves out.

On an unrelated note -- are you at Tinker AFB? Saw the Oklahoma City in your profile and was curious. I spent a few years at Tinker about ten years ago...

Yes I am here at Tinker AFB. Well I think I will offer invoice OTD and go from there and maybe try pushing the point that I will not go over invoice more than $500 OTD, but then again they would still be taking a enormous hit under invoice so I really can't see it happening...but maybe???

[BlueF]

Originally Posted by MaStA

Yes I am here at Tinker AFB. Well I think I will offer invoice OTD and go from there and maybe try pushing the point that I will not go over invoice more than $500 OTD, but then again they would still be taking a enormous hit under invoice so I really can't see it happening...but maybe???

I may be wrong, but I'm not sure haggling OTD price is the way to go. I'd put this in the same category as discussing monthly payments or interest rates. Anything the dealer can do to confuse the issue with various numbers makes the process infinitely more complicated and ultimately a waste of time.

If you have your own financing lined up, you know what your down, monthly payment and interest rate will be. If asked, don't offer, you've already determined you down payment, monthly, and interest rate. This makes is look like you have done your homework. You have, haven't you? :P You are an intelligent and informed buyer.

By the same token, you can also calculate TTL (tax, tags and license). Tags and License shouldn't be more than $100-200. All they are doing is registering the car. Don't let them through any excessive "convenience/filing" fees that push up the price. Tax, of course is going to be in the neighborhood of ~$2750 (8% of $33k).

Try to take everything out of the equation EXCEPT sale price. I could be wrong, but I'd shoot for $1000-500 under invoice and not settle for anything a penny over $33k. Dont' forget to add $650 for destination, which almost never is include in the invoice/msrp "haggling" price.

Anyone else, feel free to chime in if you think shooting for OTD price is a valid new car buying tactic.

[austinpike]

Originally Posted by MaStA

So you paid $500 invoice OTD with tax and the other million fees involved?

I don't think he mentioned anything about "OTD"

Well I think I will offer invoice OTD and go from there and maybe try pushing the point that I will not go over invoice more than $500 OTD,

Given your sales tax the starting price of the car would have to be $3000 under invoice or more. That would be the deal of the year. Imho if you go in throwing around numbers like that, they are not going to take you seriously at all.

Originally Posted by Rootus

...I'd focus on getting a good price for the car itself and let the tax & fees work themselves out.

this. Just aim for invoice price on the car and stick to it.

[BlueF]

Originally Posted by austinpike

Given your sales tax the starting price of the car would have to be $3000 under invoice or more. That would be the deal of the year. Imho if you go in throwing around numbers like that, they are not going to take you seriously at all..

You're absolutely right. I missed that bit...

The only dealers who will respond to such a lowball offer will attempt to waste your time in return.

You can shoot for $1000-500 under invoice, that's not an unheard of deal, and work your way from them. That way, it's nice for the dealer to feel they are pushing the price up, while youl end up paying as close to invoice (or below) as possible.

[MaStA]

Well I was wrong about the tax here. Here in Oklahoma you only pay 3.25% on new car purchases. Since I am military I get to use an affidavit to register it for only $21 and the title will cost $11. This is much cheaper than I was expecting at 8.375% so hopefully I can get a better deal than I was expecting.

[GilMikalian]

Originally Posted by MaStA

Thank you. So you paid $500 invoice OTD with tax and the other million fees involved? If so that is a smokin deal and would love to get my hands on that.

Jared

Nope, 500+invoice was price of car only. Tax & license here add up to another 10% or so. Overall, still a pretty good deal. $500 over invoice OTD would be an incredible deal.

[BlueF]

Originally Posted by MaStA

Well I was wrong about the tax here. Here in Oklahoma you only pay 3.25% on new car purchases. Since I am military I get to use an affidavit to register it for only $21 and the title will cost $11. This is much cheaper than I was expecting at 8.375% so hopefully I can get a better deal than I was expecting.

Right on! That does make it a much better deal. 3.25% works out to slightly over $1000. That being the case, asking for $33k out the door seems possible. Unlikely, but possible.

I say unlikely becuase even with $1000 tax, very little of tags-licensing, there's also the $650 destination. That' works out to ~$1800 you'd be asking the dealer to cover. That is most likely more than any dealer will be willing to sell for, even more so due to the recent release of this model. While the 08 STI isn't exactly rare or out of stock, it is still a smaller production model (6-7k a year) which has just had a major facelift.

If you're not tired of my advice yet, I'd say your best bet is to ask for $500 below invoice. Don't mention TTL, leave that out of the equation.

As I mentioned before, if you start negotiating OTD pricing, this gives the dealer an angle to complicate negotiations . For _most_ dealers, "complication" means the chance to sell/offer a higher price.

Once you've established a dealer who willing to sell for around invoice, who you feel comfortable dealing with via email, THEN make your calls to seal the deal, so to speak. Believe me, this approach may take longer, but if you're patient, you'll save money and quite a bit of head-ache!

[MaStA]

Always Negotiate from "Dealer Cost" upward, not from MSRP downward.
All about invoice price and dealer cost:
Invoice price is how much the dealer paid for the car. It is not how much the car cost the dealer. You need to look past the invoice price and aim straight for determining the dealer's true cost of that new car. Here's 2 of my simple formulas for car buying physics:
Dealer's Actual Cost = ( Invoice Price - Factory To Dealer Incentives - Factory Holdback)
Your Offer To The Dealer = ( Dealer's Actual Cost + 5% Profit - Consumer Rebate, if any)

I found this on Car Buying Tips for military personnel: avoiding car dealer scams - CarBuyingTips.com regarding how to come up with the beginning negotiation price. Anyone want to help me calculate this?

I am figuring Dealer holdback to be roughly 2.5% since most dealers seem to be between 2-3%.

Dealer's Actual Cost = (33,655 - ??? - 841.38)
Your Offer To The Dealer = (32813.62 + 1640.68 - ???) = 34,454.30

I don't know if there are any factory to dealer incentives and I don't think there are any consumer rebates. To me this seems ok I guess...but I don't know if it is a good starting point because I would want my OTD price to be no more than MSRP. Anyone have ideas to add to this? Thanks.

[MaStA]

I spoke to one salesman in Broken Arrow, OK and he told me basically they are not going to let the STI's go under sticker price. I should of thought of what I ended up writing him back in an e-mail after we got off the phone. It was a very quick phone call because I told him I wasn't going to waste my time if that was the case.

Here is the initial "automated" I believe e-mail and a e-mail he seemed to write to me.

Hi Jared,

Thank you for your inquiry about the 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX. Here at the Ferguson Superstore our goal is to make your next vehicle purchase the best buying experience you've ever had. My name is Rick L Holland and I am the internet manager.

I invite you to take the Ferguson Challenge, which simply means... "We will meet or beat any deal on a new vehicle that we sell with the same model and equipment". So, if you are looking for the best price, you have it here.

Please feel free to either email me or call me so we can discuss your wants and needs. I can be reached at (800) 718-9015. I look forward to talking to you soon.



Click Here if you would like me to get you pre-approved for financing!

Sincerely,
Rick L Holland
Internet Manager
FERGUSON SUPERSTORE
Broken Arrow, OK
rick@fergusondeal.com



--------------------


hello jared, how are you today? my name is rick holland and i am the internet manager with ferguson pontiac. if your looking to purchase this car its going to take at least sticker. this is a bad boy car and if i had the money i would buy it for sticker myself. just give me a call or email me back if your interested and we will take good care of you. i can be reached @ 918-258-1800 or 918-810-2425. thanx for your time

-------------------------

Here was my response after we got off our phone call.


Just to add a little to our brief conversation on the phone:

If this car was in such demand you all would not have any sitting on your lot at any given time. There would be a backlog of people on a waiting list with orders placed for the car. These statements of "this is a bad boy car" etc. is just a sales trick that I am not ignorant enough to fall for. These cars are available at any Subaru dealer and many people have got them under invoice as it is.

I received an automated e-mail prior to yours stating the same model with same options will be matched or beat. If the local Subaru gives me a great deal are you guys going to hold true to your commitment?

[Crash1973]

Originally Posted by USNSTI

Not calling bs, but has this really worked for you? I have never seen or heard of this working, dealerships today will almost never give a quote over the internet.

Worked for me on my '07. Got an internet quote and then used it to haggle between two dealerships for a ridiculously low price.

[MaStA]

Originally Posted by Crash1973

Worked for me on my '07. Got an internet quote and then used it to haggle between two dealerships for a ridiculously low price.

I have submitted for quotes through several online places and the directly through the dealers and it seems I am just getting quotes that are MSRP or sticker price...how do I get quoted something that is decent?

[Crash1973]

Originally Posted by MaStA

I have submitted for quotes through several online places and the directly through the dealers and it seems I am just getting quotes that are MSRP or sticker price...how do I get quoted something that is decent?

Pick the two best deals and then call up the internet sales manager for one of them. Work out the best deal you can get and then tell him you need to "discuss it with the wife". Then call the other dealer and work a deal with them. If the first dealer is lower, tell the second dealer, "hmmm, dealer so and so has a much better deal. Unless you can beat them, then I think I will go with them." Sometimes it works, sometimes not but it is always worth a try.

BTW, Invoice + $500 is a good deal on most cars. Invoice for a 08 STI with nav and BBS WITH NO OTHER OPTIONS is $37,182. The $33,655 STI is a "base" model, also with no extra options. The dealer could actually sell the bloody thing for as much as $1000 below invoice and still make a little money (not much but a little), so invoice + $500 is a good deal for you and them. If they don't go for that.......walk and don't look back. There is more than one dealership out there, someone will want your money enough to do a deal with you.