Anybody install the APS inlet pipe yet?! - Page 4

***JDM-STI*** · 02-24-2006, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSVCHAD

I guess my question is: Why be so concerned with fitment of the stock TGV's if you have to remove the entire manifold to install the APS unit anyways. It makes sense to do the TGV's while the manifold is off. You already spent thousands of dollars to upgrade the turbo, inlet pipe and intercooler, so what's another $200 to do the TGV deletes??? I consider it money well spent for the added air-flow.

You can do the butterfly and divider delete but leave the rod thus keeping the sensors to avoid any kind of CEL's down the road. Plus you keep the stock looking appearance. Some budget upgrades will look at it as $200 saved. If I was doing a 3" 20G, I probably wouldn't worry with TGV deletes. That's just me though.

STI-Man · 02-25-2006, 01:48 PM

pictures please

RossWRX · 02-25-2006, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STI-Man

pictures please

x2

stibaby · 02-25-2006, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RossWRX

x2

x3 picture

focus4 · 02-27-2006, 09:24 AM

just a thought... would the perrin 3" inlet be able to fit ok with the sensor shaved a bit? I remember hearing it was the turbo anyway that was in proximity of the TGV sensor and not the inlet tube itself... I have heard of people not removing the TGV with the perrin inlet, but the sensor might have been smashed later down the road by the turbo.

***JDM-STI*** · 03-06-2006, 05:29 AM

Yeah, that PS line was the only issue I had. The instructions are dead on for an 05'. With all of the relocating and cutting involved, 3 hours is a bit much to ask. JMO. My FP Red is very loud with the metal inlet. But hey, I LIKE IT!

ValvetrainEngineer · 03-06-2006, 06:10 AM

Nick, thanks for a good write up.

For both of you who've installed this...I read the instructions...what's the deal with the capped fuel line? It looks like just a plastic cap that slides over the end? I'm paranoid about fuel leaks above the engine. I don't have an APS inlet yet but it's in the short term plans...

Thanks

Jay

***JDM-STI*** · 03-06-2006, 06:21 AM

The metal fuel line that runs down under the manifold to the FPR is no longer used. So they put caps on it just for cosmetics. That line has nothing flowing through it any more. The new fuel line runs directly from the relocated FPR to the supply line. You will see this new line in the install instructions. No worries with leaks I assure you as long as you tighten all of your clamps.

daemon · 03-06-2006, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDM-STI

Yeah, that PS line was the only issue I had.

What was your solution to the PS line issue?

**WolfPlayer** · 03-06-2006, 09:34 AM

Some additions from what I remember ...

1) The instructions make NO mention of routing the vacuum line from the manifold to the FPR. This needs to be added - with specific instructions on where to hook it up. There is a nice picture of the routing ... but they leave out how to hook it up. We hooked it up to the nipple coming out of the manifold to the right of the throttle body (when looking directly at the throttle body, and to the left of the throttle body if you are looking at the motor standing in front of the car). This nipple had a 2-inch piece of small vacuum line that made a 180d turn to under the manifold and slipped over another nipple that eventually fed into the FPR. Remove this small hose and connect the vacuum line directly to the nipple coming out of the manifold runner

2) On nhluhr's car the black hardline under the manifold toward the firewall was a lot shorter than the one in the instructions. Thus, the breather hose from the driver's side valve cover was a lot longer. We had to trim this hose back substantially.

3) For the FPR mounting, we originally drilled an extra hole in the new FPR bracket in order to get the FPR placed exactly where it was placed in the picture. It seems that there is a little 'L' shaped bracket on nhluhr's '06 that mounts the ground closer to the firewall instead of closer to the engine. The picture in the destructions made it seem like they flipped this little 'L' bracket around. We tried that, but it wouldn't sit flat. We put it back to normal, drilled a new hole and remounted it. We then discovered that the new fuel line routing wouldn't reach the FPR. We then put the ground back to where it was and then mounted the FPR to the point where the destructions tell you to mount the ground. We used the original hole in the new FPR bracket but had to stack 4 washers under the bracket in order to space the bracket away from the block. This worked like a charm. In fact, APS should provide another spacer specifically for this purpose.

4) APS only supplies 1 bolt. This bolt is used to attach the FPR to the new bracket. However, you need 2 bolts! nhluhr had an extra one laying around. You need another bolt to attach the FPR to the block (or to attach the ground to the block depending on how you do the install).

5) There are no destructions on how to use the gold adapter for the PCV. One end has a small barb on it. This is the end that goes in the plastic PCV connector. Be careful though ... once you get it in there it will NOT come out.

6) When you have to make those fuel line / FPR connector cuts, nhluhr and I found the best route is to cut from underneath them. In order to do this we also removed the OTHER fuel rail from the manifold. This worked like a charm and provided a much much better angle for making the bigger of the 2 cuts.

7) Might be nice for APS' destructions to mention the coolant flow routing so that people can accomplish a throttle body coolant bypass at the same time.

Some interesting things for me ...
A) I was amazed at the size difference at the turbo inlet. nhluhr has gotta post this pic. I have always known the stock turbo is only a 2.4" turbo .... but when you physically see this difference .... well, it becomes clear why a new intake doesn't make much of a difference. The actual inlet duct at 2.4" is actually smaller than the stock MAF housing.

B) I was amazed at how easy it is to pull the manifold without removing the harness. 2 huge connectors on the driver's side. Woot. Yea, you still have to unplug stuff like the cam sensors, crank sensor, CTS, etc ... but the rest can stay plugged in.

C) Thank goodness I am doing TGV deletes. Those things look horrible for flow, lol

D) Make sure to relieve the fuel system pressure by unplugging the green relay in the passenger footwell and cranking the car

t

R4ND0M_AX3 · 03-06-2006, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhluhr

Mine must be from a later batch or something. Notice the polished plate?

***JDM-STI*** · 03-06-2006, 11:21 AM

Mine had the polished plate as well.

***JDM-STI*** · 03-06-2006, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daemon

What was your solution to the PS line issue?

I stuck a "leverage" pipe into the end of the inlet and pulled it back far enough to clear then tightened it into place.

daemon · 03-10-2006, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WolfPlayer

4) APS only supplies 1 bolt. This bolt is used to attach the FPR to the new bracket. However, you need 2 bolts! nhluhr had an extra one laying around. You need another bolt to attach the FPR to the block (or to attach the ground to the block depending on how you do the install).

Isn't the second bolt the one that was in the block holding the ground wire down? I only seem to need the one bolt, unless I'm missing something (haven't completely finished up yet though). Also on mine, it almost looks like the clutch lever is going to hit the FPR in the location they specify. Might take a little bending (or moving like you guys did).

**WolfPlayer** · 03-10-2006, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daemon

Isn't the second bolt the one that was in the block holding the ground wire down? I only seem to need the one bolt, unless I'm missing something (haven't completely finished up yet though). Also on mine, it almost looks like the clutch lever is going to hit the FPR in the location they specify. Might take a little bending (or moving like you guys did).

They give you one bolt. You have one bolt. You need a total of 3 bolts.

The bolt you have is the bolt for the ground.
The bolt they give you is a nice gold bolt.

Use the new bolt to bolt the FPR to the bracket.
Use the existing bolt to bolt the new bracket to the block.
NOW you need a bolt to bolt the ground to the block because you utilized that existing bolt to bolt the new FPR bracket to the block.

t

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02-25-2006, 01:48 PM	#47
STI-Man Junior STI Driver Posts: 158 IWSTI Addict since: Oct 2004 Trader Rating: (0)	pictures please

02-27-2006, 09:24 AM	#50
focus4 STI Driver Car: 04 STi Location: Northern NJ Posts: 207 IWSTI Addict since: May 2003 Trader Rating: (0)	just a thought... would the perrin 3" inlet be able to fit ok with the sensor shaved a bit? I remember hearing it was the turbo anyway that was in proximity of the TGV sensor and not the inlet tube itself... I have heard of people not removing the TGV with the perrin inlet, but the sensor might have been smashed later down the road by the turbo.

03-06-2006, 05:29 AM	#51
*JDM-STI* Platinum Member Car: 2005 & 2008 STI Fav Mod: Scott Siegel Tuning!!! :D Location: Columbus, GA Posts: 2,017 IWSTI Addict since: Mar 2005 Trader Rating: (11)	Yeah, that PS line was the only issue I had. The instructions are dead on for an 05'. With all of the relocating and cutting involved, 3 hours is a bit much to ask. JMO. My FP Red is very loud with the metal inlet. But hey, I LIKE IT!

03-06-2006, 06:10 AM	#52
ValvetrainEngineer Spec C Club Car: '04 WRB Fav Mod: A working ECU... Location: CT Posts: 1,485 IWSTI Addict since: May 2003 Trader Rating: (7)	Nick, thanks for a good write up. For both of you who've installed this...I read the instructions...what's the deal with the capped fuel line? It looks like just a plastic cap that slides over the end? I'm paranoid about fuel leaks above the engine. I don't have an APS inlet yet but it's in the short term plans... Thanks Jay

03-06-2006, 06:21 AM	#53
*JDM-STI* Platinum Member Car: 2005 & 2008 STI Fav Mod: Scott Siegel Tuning!!! :D Location: Columbus, GA Posts: 2,017 IWSTI Addict since: Mar 2005 Trader Rating: (11)	The metal fuel line that runs down under the manifold to the FPR is no longer used. So they put caps on it just for cosmetics. That line has nothing flowing through it any more. The new fuel line runs directly from the relocated FPR to the supply line. You will see this new line in the install instructions. No worries with leaks I assure you as long as you tighten all of your clamps.

03-06-2006, 09:34 AM	#55
WolfPlayer Moderator & ECU Tech Car: 05 CGM STI Fav Mod: mo boostaz Location: Fredneck, MD Posts: 3,759 IWSTI Addict since: Jun 2004 Trader Rating: (6)	Some additions from what I remember ... 1) The instructions make NO mention of routing the vacuum line from the manifold to the FPR. This needs to be added - with specific instructions on where to hook it up. There is a nice picture of the routing ... but they leave out how to hook it up. We hooked it up to the nipple coming out of the manifold to the right of the throttle body (when looking directly at the throttle body, and to the left of the throttle body if you are looking at the motor standing in front of the car). This nipple had a 2-inch piece of small vacuum line that made a 180d turn to under the manifold and slipped over another nipple that eventually fed into the FPR. Remove this small hose and connect the vacuum line directly to the nipple coming out of the manifold runner 2) On nhluhr's car the black hardline under the manifold toward the firewall was a lot shorter than the one in the instructions. Thus, the breather hose from the driver's side valve cover was a lot longer. We had to trim this hose back substantially. 3) For the FPR mounting, we originally drilled an extra hole in the new FPR bracket in order to get the FPR placed exactly where it was placed in the picture. It seems that there is a little 'L' shaped bracket on nhluhr's '06 that mounts the ground closer to the firewall instead of closer to the engine. The picture in the destructions made it seem like they flipped this little 'L' bracket around. We tried that, but it wouldn't sit flat. We put it back to normal, drilled a new hole and remounted it. We then discovered that the new fuel line routing wouldn't reach the FPR. We then put the ground back to where it was and then mounted the FPR to the point where the destructions tell you to mount the ground. We used the original hole in the new FPR bracket but had to stack 4 washers under the bracket in order to space the bracket away from the block. This worked like a charm. In fact, APS should provide another spacer specifically for this purpose. 4) APS only supplies 1 bolt. This bolt is used to attach the FPR to the new bracket. However, you need 2 bolts! nhluhr had an extra one laying around. You need another bolt to attach the FPR to the block (or to attach the ground to the block depending on how you do the install). 5) There are no destructions on how to use the gold adapter for the PCV. One end has a small barb on it. This is the end that goes in the plastic PCV connector. Be careful though ... once you get it in there it will NOT come out. 6) When you have to make those fuel line / FPR connector cuts, nhluhr and I found the best route is to cut from underneath them. In order to do this we also removed the OTHER fuel rail from the manifold. This worked like a charm and provided a much much better angle for making the bigger of the 2 cuts. 7) Might be nice for APS' destructions to mention the coolant flow routing so that people can accomplish a throttle body coolant bypass at the same time. Some interesting things for me ... A) I was amazed at the size difference at the turbo inlet. nhluhr has gotta post this pic. I have always known the stock turbo is only a 2.4" turbo .... but when you physically see this difference .... well, it becomes clear why a new intake doesn't make much of a difference. The actual inlet duct at 2.4" is actually smaller than the stock MAF housing. B) I was amazed at how easy it is to pull the manifold without removing the harness. 2 huge connectors on the driver's side. Woot. Yea, you still have to unplug stuff like the cam sensors, crank sensor, CTS, etc ... but the rest can stay plugged in. C) Thank goodness I am doing TGV deletes. Those things look horrible for flow, lol D) Make sure to relieve the fuel system pressure by unplugging the green relay in the passenger footwell and cranking the car t

03-06-2006, 11:21 AM	#57
*JDM-STI* Platinum Member Car: 2005 & 2008 STI Fav Mod: Scott Siegel Tuning!!! :D Location: Columbus, GA Posts: 2,017 IWSTI Addict since: Mar 2005 Trader Rating: (11)	Mine had the polished plate as well.