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Go Back   IWSTI.com: Subaru WRX STI Forums > IWSTI Engine & Drivetrain > 2.5 Liter/Litre Factory Motor


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Old 09-04-2005, 11:14 AM   #16
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Try GM/Goodwrench Heat Valve lubricant or Mopar Heat Riser solvent (same stuff, i think). I believe it's for frozen EGR valves. They go for about $5 at the parts counter. Spray liberally and let sit 10-15 min. I alway use this stuff on exhaust bolts or anywhere I'm worred about breaking a bolt or stud.

Also, I always try to do exhausts when the car is still warm (be careful and use gloves!)


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Last edited by gromit555; 09-04-2005 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 09-04-2005, 12:37 PM   #17
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I have an 05 and have never gotten boost creep with my catted helix downpipe.
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Old 09-04-2005, 01:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie
I received my invidia N1 catback back on Aug. 27 and it took about an hour and a half by myself to put on. Really easy. However today my Helix dp came in today so I left work early to put it on. After taking the tmic off and the heat shield I was ready to take off the dp. Holy sh!t man those bolts were impossible. I sprayed them with everything on this earth to help me get them off. I could only get one off and loosen another. Im no weak guy so I didnt think this would be a problem. WRONG!!! After trying an impact ratchet, breaking bar, etc. I decided to give up. I put the car back together and called a local shop and they will be putting it on for me on Tue. at $75 an hour. If it werent for bad luck id have none. I do love the sound of the invidia catback though so its not a total waist. Just thought id share my experience with you people.
They were on mighty tight with mine as well. I slid a pipe over the handle of my socket wrench (for better leverage) and that worked like a charm. I never even touched the tmic.
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Old 09-04-2005, 08:23 PM   #19
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If you run catted you should be alright...me on the other hand w/o any cats and an 04 to boot had problems...and ive seen pleanty of 05's that have had the same prob...
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Old 09-04-2005, 08:43 PM   #20
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well if you do get the wastegate ported just make sure they don't over do it or you won't be able to hold boost
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Old 09-05-2005, 08:03 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixxer6
well if you do get the wastegate ported just make sure they don't over do it or you won't be able to hold boost
This is quite for sure. I overported mine. Now I use ST to tune out the loss in boost pressure. If you are looking at a custom tune (ST, PT, Ecutek, etc.) then definately do NOT port the wastegate.
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:06 AM   #22
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dude dont waste the money on getting someone else to do it because their not going to have it any easier then you, and might loose their petience and just bang it in there.

I just did my downpipe install so I know what your going thru. It was all about not having good enough leverage.

Climb into your engine bay, ahve someone hold the hood completely open, stand on the peice powder coated red, and have at it with those nuts. You get a great vantage point from standing on your engine and it wont hurt nothing.

Those bolts dont stand a chance.

-Foo
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Old 09-05-2005, 11:23 PM   #23
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I here you bro but I weigh about 250 not about to stand on my engine. LOL
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Old 09-06-2005, 08:28 AM   #24
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just get a bar and put it over the end of the wrench like someone else did, and just pull it. it should come off pretty easy. leverage helps so much with tight bolts, i was trying to change my friends rotors and couldnt get the bolt off for anything...kicking it pull it as hard as i could. put the bar on and it came off with ease. kinda felt like a jackass for not realizing sooner.

also spray it with some pb blaster or lubricant u can find and you should be set.
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:38 PM   #25
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i did the install with about 4K miles on the odo.

used pb blaster, and only a craftsman 14mm wrench,(for the dp bolts) i'm a bit stronger than most folks, but only the one bolt under the tmic, gave me trouble, that and fiddling with the top heat shield to get it out took the most time.
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Old 09-06-2005, 01:33 PM   #26
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there's a little trick that sometimes works, especially on bolts that are stuck because the studs are rusted...

Carefully, try to TIGHTEN the nut just enough to break it free, then hit it with more pb blaster and off it'll come... use discresion though, but it does work.
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Old 09-06-2005, 02:03 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazazell
there's a little trick that sometimes works, especially on bolts that are stuck because the studs are rusted...

Carefully, try to TIGHTEN the nut just enough to break it free, then hit it with more pb blaster and off it'll come... use discresion though, but it does work.
This guy is right. You have to break the nut free on the back then the bolt will come right out.
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Old 09-06-2005, 07:21 PM   #28
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Im going to give this stuff a try. I will attempt on Fri.. I did use the bar off my jack to get leverage but all that would happen is the wrench would start to round the nut. Man I hope they come off. I have the cat back on now should I expect a big difference once the down pipe is finally on?? sound, power etc....????
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Old 09-09-2005, 06:22 PM   #29
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Red face

Well i finally got my downpipe on my car. After getting these special sockets for stripped nuts, and actually having to use the dremel on one of the nuts it's on. Thanks for all your help and advise. Man this exhaust makes me ride around with permaboner. That's right permaboner!!!!!!!
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Old 09-09-2005, 06:36 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie
Well i finally got my downpipe on my car. After getting these special sockets for stripped nuts, and actually having to use the dremel on one of the nuts it's on. Thanks for all your help and advise. Man this exhaust makes me ride around with permaboner. That's right permaboner!!!!!!!
LOL, congratulations man!


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