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Rod knock?
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Old 06-22-17, 07:42 PM   #1
Fithawkeye
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Default Rod knock?

I Installed a gates timing belt/ pulleys and water pump about 2k miles ago. 2006 sti with 88k miles. I also did oil change, coolant flush, new hoses. Car has been driving good. The other day the oil light came on and the car died. I checked the oil and it was empty. I use rotella t6 5w40, i add the amount 4ish qts and the oil light went off and car drove fine. I drove back to the house and noticed the next day that the exhaust was blowing out white smoke. I put sea foam in the oil and drove for 25 miles and then changed the oil and filter. Now i have a loud sound when i start the car and the oil light goes on and off. Im going to try to attach a video if i can. Let me know what you guys think. Thank you https://youtu.be/BmDzIIXKWtU

Last edited by Fithawkeye; 06-22-17 at 08:33 PM. Reason: Added video
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Old 06-23-17, 12:59 AM   #2
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Default Re: Rod knock?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fithawkeye View Post
I Installed a gates timing belt/ pulleys and water pump about 2k miles ago. 2006 sti with 88k miles. I also did oil change, coolant flush, new hoses. Car has been driving good. The other day the oil light came on and the car died. I checked the oil and it was empty. I use rotella t6 5w40, i add the amount 4ish qts and the oil light went off and car drove fine. I drove back to the house and noticed the next day that the exhaust was blowing out white smoke. I put sea foam in the oil and drove for 25 miles and then changed the oil and filter. Now i have a loud sound when i start the car and the oil light goes on and off. Im going to try to attach a video if i can. Let me know what you guys think. Thank you https://youtu.be/BmDzIIXKWtU
"oil light came on...oil and it was empty...loud sound when i start...oil light goes on and off"

Suggest taking it to a smart shop and confirm it is rod knock. Those comments pretty much solidify internal engine damage...just getting worse the more you drive it.
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Old 06-23-17, 03:32 AM   #3
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Default Re: Rod knock?

This engine is done for. The fact that you had to add 4 quarts of oil to the engine is bad!! I would highly recommend taking it to a SUBARU shop and have them diag it. Based on what you described this car will need a new engine. Search around here and you will find plenty of information on this with very similar beginnings and endings.
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Old 06-23-17, 03:34 AM   #4
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Default Re: Rod knock?

First of all, stop running the engine for videos or otherwise. Do not drive it to whatever shop, tow it. Definitely all kinds of bearing damage. Running it in that condition increases the likelihood of damaging components that might otherwise be salvageable.
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Old 06-23-17, 07:28 AM   #5
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Default Re: Rod knock?

can change a timing belt but forget to put oil in your motor?? baby steps = race car.
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Old 06-23-17, 12:48 PM   #6
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Default Re: Rod knock?

What would be another option besides briniging it a shop. How can I pin point the noise? Pull the pan off? On the passenger i installed moroso oil separators and there is exhaust carbon built up on the bottom of them. Maybe a turbo exhaust leak? I'm going to fix whatever needed myself. I just want to find exactly what it is before i start pulling stuff apart and building a price sheet
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Old 06-23-17, 12:59 PM   #7
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Default Re: Rod knock?

Drain the oil and see if you find glittery particles and/or metal shavings. I'm thinking you will.

RIP motor
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Old 06-23-17, 03:42 PM   #8
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Default Re: Rod knock?

Well, you have two major problems to deal with at this point:
  • Why did you lose so much oil so quickly?
  • What damage was caused when the engine was running with no oil?

White smoke from the exhaust indicates there's probably coolant in the exhaust. Could be a blown head gasket or a turbo seal. Probably the same reason you lost so much oil so quickly.

More concerning though is that the engine actually died from oil starvation. That pretty much guarantees bearing damage. You'll very likely have to pull the reciprocating assembly apart at a minimum. There could be damage to the cylinder walls as well. You're very likely looking at an entirely new short block and either a hone or new block halves if you want the build to last (one of these might actually be required depending on the extent of the damage).

Again, stop running the engine. You need to tear down the block at this point.

Last edited by 8cd03gro; 06-23-17 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 06-23-17, 08:40 PM   #9
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Default Re: Rod knock?

To see if its rod knock you just wiggle the rods. if the motor was starved from oil you will also likely see blue discoloration in the metal from the heat. but drain the oil first and you will see large metal shavings if it ate a bearing.

If that is the case and you decide to re-use this block:

1. Get a new crank, dont polish anything. think about at that time if your sticking with oem case half bolts, if you upgrade you will need the mains line honed. at that time skim the decks and get the cylinders ready for new rings. get a ring filer tool, it will make things easy on you to get a nice square edge.

2.Check and double check your clearances, if you dont own a micrometer and bore gauge do not do this job yourself. same thing goes for feeler gauge with the ring gap.

3. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN everything!!! there will be metal shavings in every line, the turbo, the head. inspect the cam journals, the head is very well toast if you continued to drive the car. check the oil pump, under the valve seals like every nook and cranny cause there will be metal goo there.

4. there will be parts that you will buy new because the risk isnt worth it. accept that upfront and get everything at once.

5. or just get an OEM bottom end for 1700...
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Old 06-24-17, 05:00 AM   #10
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Default Re: Rod knock?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fithawkeye View Post
What would be another option besides briniging it a shop. How can I pin point the noise? Pull the pan off? On the passenger i installed moroso oil separators and there is exhaust carbon built up on the bottom of them. Maybe a turbo exhaust leak? I'm going to fix whatever needed myself. I just want to find exactly what it is before i start pulling stuff apart and building a price sheet
Well you can take a long screwdriver and put it to the block by/behind the alternator. Put your ear to the long scewdriver handle. If you can hear the noise, then its an internal engine noise. Like others have stated above, you can start my draining your oil. If you see any flakes, shavings, chunks, then you know its time.

Someone recommended rebuilding the engine yourself with individual parts. I wouldnt bother with that. There are plenty of known established reputable subaru shops that sell complete professionally assembled short blocks with forged internals that are only a bit more than buying an brand new OEM short block from Subaru.
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